View Full Version : hobbycar's Enduro race setup and experience
2010.07.18, 09:35 PM
I'm going to use this thread to post on my experience racing in our Ann Arbor Enduro Race Series (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=388670) (one hour races).
I am running LM in our Series so I ended up starting with my 2.4Ghz MR-02 (figured I could get more run time out of it than my AWD), with a Speedy 05 motor (just happened to be the motor in it), changed my wheelbase to 102mm and got a Sauber Mercedes White Body. I had to remove my top shock as it didn't fit under the Sauber Mercedes body. And even then I had to dremel/sand some of the inside of the body to clear my motor and spur gear.
Weight with batteries ended being 179 grams.
I used my 2 sets of Team Orion 750mAh AAA batteries and was able to make it through the whole hour with just the one battery change.
More to come. And any suggestions welcomed :)
2010.07.19, 07:45 AM
also very interested in your opinions on the format. i happen to like longer races as you generally have opportunity to catch up vs. a 8 min dash where the field separates within the first 2 minutes usually. some just don't like the longer times though.
I like longer races as well. Most of the races are sprint races, and as soon as they start, they are nearly over. We have been doing an endurance race to seperate each 8 week point series at Action RC. Each time it is a little different, and you never know exactly how it will be until the day of the race.
The last race I used a setup specifically designed for endurance racing. LM tires front and rear. I felt that the added momentum of the tire allowed it to coast very well in the corners. It was a little slower than a sprint setup, but consistancy was much higher as long as I didnt try to push the car. I typically got about 35min each stint with an ATM Standard BB motor. I would have preferred an ATM Stock-BB, but I didnt have one at the time.
2010.08.22, 09:57 PM
Hey Arch2b and EMU. As always thanks for your comments.
Enduro is fun. Although the first time I did an hour race my hand was numb at the end of it. Last time was actually fine :)
I finally got around to painting the Sauber body and put a WTF2 on.
Here's a pic (pic edited to not be so wide).
2010.09.03, 12:18 AM
David beat me in the final race of last weeks AA GTG :mad::eek::confused:. So that means I need to get even more serious on my LM setup :cool:.
We have settled on doing two 10 min races one week during the month and a single 30 min race the other AA GTG week of the month (1 hour was voted to be too long).
Either way I'm compiling my wishlist and have to start researching and saving up funds :D
New MR-03 Chassis (OR is MR-03 board in my MR-02 chassis w/ WTF2 good enough?)
PN Racing Rear Tri Damper System
Front Wheel Bearing Spacers
Top Spring that will fit under the Sauber LM body (? PN Mini-Z MR-02/MR-015 Dual Spring Center Shock Set)
Better motor than my Speedy05
2x2 FET stack
Should I try the LiFe batteries? (I would need to get a charger for them :( )
Rear diff upgrades
If I do go the whole new MR-03 chassis route there is also the following:
Reflex MR-03 Front End upgrades (Extra Long Kingpins)
Alloy front knuckles
I recommend the ATM stock-BB. If driven conservatively and geared well, it can do the full 30min in one pack, and will still be pretty quick as well. The motor has a lot of power, but is also very efficient. As long as you stay off the boards well, you can maintain speed well with very little throttle input.
Here are some pictures of my LM car. It won its class in the Carolina Cup last week against some steep competition.
This MR03 LM was blueprinted with Atomic parts in mind
Here are the basics;
PN 43t motor 11t
ATM LM mount
ATM super lightweight diff on Atomic LM ti shaft 52t ceramic balls
ATM LM ti DDS
ATM oil shock
ATM 7.5mm silver t-plate
Kyosho 20d radials on 0mm wheels
Reflex Racing long kingpins, balls and spring perches
MantisWorx Group C wheels with Kyosho LM 30 tires trued
ATM tower bar (going to change to Reflex tower to gain camber and castor)
Key tips: I added about 5g to the rear of the chassis in front of the motormount. This really made a big difference with how I could get out of the corner. The car weighs in around 180g, so it holds its ground pretty well. I still had to shave the body down a bit above the shock and kingpins, but I didnt have to cut holes.
You may want to try the 3Racing LM DPS... http://store.hkshobby.com/product_info.php?cPath=23_75_34_153_258&products_id=5540 If you are using a PN FMv# mount, you should be able to use it without a problem. This damper lowers the DPS plate the same as the ATM does. You could be able to use the same idea, with the PN tri damper with modification... It would give you more clearance to the body with the top shock compared to the standard height damper plate. With the tri shock, you could mount the shocks to the top of the plate instead of the bottom. Now, I want to try that idea... But I dont have a tri-shock yet.
2010.09.04, 09:13 AM
Thanks EMU. I'll definitely look into your suggestions.
I actually just sold my Atomic Stock and other Atomic BB canned motors (not sure which one it was) :( . I committed to selling it before I realized that I could/should them for our modified LM class. Oh well.
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