View Full Version : Skyline Build-Up

2010.08.06, 03:52 PM
Hi guys, this is my little Skyline. It's a Skynet one, that came in a very nice all written in japanese box, with some manga comics on the back (lol).



This is the Hop-Hups I have until now (this ones from Atomic):

Mini-Z High Quality Ball Bearing
Adjust. Rear Shock Set
Option Front Spring Set
Delrin Front Collar Set
Aluminum Lock Nuts

I've been trying to set this in an unusual way.. SOFT very SOFT. The reason is that I run this little guy in concrete pavement, and as so it moves not by sliding, but by vibrating from point a to b. That was total understeer.

With the softest springs, and the shortest collars I now have an excellent suspension for a bumpy pavement (I couldn't image the difference! I can actually control it now!).

The rear is still shaky because is very hard but that has to do with the t-plate which is still the original. The Atomic damper (with the softest spring) didn't made a difference. I hope with the SSG H-Plate for RM (Mid Hardness) it gets soft enough.

I am actually a little (lot) disappointed with the damper. Lots of play on the central ball, and the kind of "adjust once and wish you don't have to touch it again" thing. It also doesn't have enough travel for my application.... but maybe I can get it to work good for me.

I'll post more mods as I go. By the way, anybody here from Cyprus?

2010.08.16, 04:23 PM
At least it doesnt(right?) flip on you since pavement definitely doesn't offer enougfh grip like RCP. Try a damper disk system for the top rear suspension, it might be what you're looking for instead of just a top shock.

2010.08.17, 03:53 PM
Nope! No flip here. I'm still struggling to get more traction.



This is all the goodies I got for this month:

Atomic Knuckles
Atomic SSG H-Plate (medium)

The LM mount and axle are for my other project, an i-waver firelap. The interesting thing is that the I-waver actualy donated some parts that were BETTER than the kyosho ones :eek: The kingpins from the from suspension of the MR-015 were really bad and I couldn't believe how much more smoother the I-waver ones where.. so I just used them here! ;)

I-waver kingpins, and Atomic knuckles:


All set!:


The Atomic T-plate didn't remain. I was desolated! It was as hard has the original RM one. Side to side is has an acceptable softness, (as does the normal plastic one, although a little harder) but on straight compression is just damn hard! I thought about Skv012a idea and I even went a step further.. no shock! Just the plate, and still like that is too much!!

It's a little bit softer anyway, so i'm running with no rear shock at all now, just the plate. It even gives me extra suspension travel bellow 0! (the extension travel was limited by the shock)

I think I need something like a swinging plate (something without any hardness), does it even exist???

2010.08.17, 07:07 PM
I thought about Skv012a idea and I even went a step further.. no shock! Just the plate, and still like that is too much!!

It's a little bit softer anyway, so i'm running with no rear shock at all now, just the plate. It even gives me extra suspension travel bellow 0! (the extension travel was limited by the shock)

I think I need something like a swinging plate (something without any hardness), does it even exist???

There are soft lexan plates available. Also, I didn't mean NO top suspension at all, that would make the rear too unpredictable. Damper disks might be what you're looking for (and if you plan on racing on RCP a must-have upgrade). Also, I'm surprised you didn't start with the softest tires available and simply jumped to suspension mods.

2010.08.18, 09:27 AM
Well, I did thought about softer tires, but the thing is although those give grip, they don't necessarily give more traction.

I won't be racing RCP at all, I only use it for fun in the parking lot and that's where all the suspension problem comes from, the closest thing I can think of is like running your mini-z on top of a lego board!

The front is ok, very soft, more preload to keep it from compressing to much on rest, and full travel by using the shortest derlin collars. It can comply with the irregular terrain very well! I just need to do the same for the rear.

2010.08.18, 02:30 PM
I'd say try the softest wide rear tires available and see how it performs.

2010.08.18, 03:20 PM
When we used to run on concrete soft tires were a no-no. They wouldnt grip very well, and they got chewed up quickly.

The hardest tires aren't neccesarily the asnwer either. We ended up running a lot of GPM and ATM tires. I dont remember the degree of GPMs, but we were running ATM 40 fronts and 30 rears, with the AW tread.

2010.09.16, 06:47 PM
New upgrades!! Finaly!

First off all, thank you for all the comments guys! Widest rear tires sounds good, I have to star thinking about those as soon as I finish the suspension problem.. this thing still keeps jumping all over the place.. lol!

Anyway just received this rear motor mount. Apparently (more like... evidently) is a PnRacing replica.

As of now I am really, really, really happy with it. I ran into problems because this mount lowers the car below the standard height even with the axle adjusters in the inverted position, witch was something totally unexpected! I was about to put it in a special box I have around for this occasions (garbage bin? lolol) but after finding a way to put a shock into it so I could get a little of pre-tension, the ride height got back to what I wanted. I still threw away the damper disk bottom plate that I had no intentions on using, and had to cut the top graphite mount but it ended up working.

From the little I tested the car, the handling seemed better. The change in the position of the motor really shifted the weight forward, so less spinning of the rear.

As nothing good comes without bad I still didn't solve the traction problem, and now that it is even worst! This mount needs the shorter MM H-Bar in order to make 90mm and the MM bar is harder then the RM. I'm still trying to get my hands on the SuperSoft Atomic one, the AR-056 for a decent price from Hong Kong but the thing is discontinued.. ouch! So if anyone as a secret contact.. tell me! tell me!

Anyway here is the picture of the mount with my modified graphite top plate ;)


2010.10.19, 06:06 PM
Well... Just got my M1 endbell kit yesterday!! Finally, in all its sexiness, the slotted case, with open ends, swappable springs and bushes endbell..Wuau! It already has holes, so I don't have to tap them, and it has anodized parts and every thing!

I was eager to turn one of my little engines into something a little better looking, more free turning (bearings) and colder (and also cooler) to run thing! Well... i t didn't happen. lol!

The first thing that got my attention, was how hard this case was pulling all the metal parts that where getting in proximity. Even getting the motor in the pod was difficult because it didn't want to leave the rear axle that it got so attached to. Also, the normal cores might (might) not have been designed to work with this cases as I had to remove all the sliding rings it has on both ends in order for the case to close.

It really looks a lot better now, problem is that it also runs like crap! Really! The magnets are so strong that the motor doesn't spin freely. I try to turn the motor by the differential and whoooa.. it's hard! I checked and its only because of the magnet. No scrubbing inside. And its slower than my I-waver engine now.. witch runs sooo fast, smooth and without any noise.

I will try to change only the case to the non-vented original i-waver one. I also tried but couldn't remove the magnets to change them. (do they come off?) Also does anyone knows if I NEED to put the capacitators like in the stock ones? (I'm using stock board)

Anyway, here is a picture because although it runs like crap it surely looks nice ;)


2010.10.19, 07:06 PM
Just found out the magnets do come out. :)


Changed for the original ones and the motor now spins much more smoothly. So I can use the new ventilated case. One problem left.. the car is very, very, very glitchy! Steering just doesn't stop jumping one place to another. I think its because I didn't used the resistors or capacitators or whatever it is that came with the motor..

Should i solder them? I just don't have a soldering iron otherwise I would already be trying it ;)


Also doesn't fit in my other Mini-z with LM stock plastic mount. But thats not a real problem.. that's more of an excuse to go ahead and just buy an aluminium one :D :D

2010.10.20, 01:19 PM
Yes you need to put the capacitors on to your motor,this will stop the glitching.
This is an interesting thread,I'm surprised to see not many replies.
I too have a neo magnet motor that I find is not to my liking,like you,I find the magnets are too strong and makes the car feel less controlable.It feels more like an "on/off" switch instead of speed control,too much brakes also.
I guess higher gearing may help to take the rough feel from it as it would be easier for the wheels to turn the motor.
Keep up the posting of your progress,I'm interested to see how you get on.

2010.10.26, 07:17 PM
Hi Steve!

Thank you very much for your interest! I just saw on the picture thread about your 2 new 015's, congratulations! I don't know if you have a thing for old cars or not (well, i sure do!) but i just love them!

As for your post about the neo-magnet, the truth is i didn't even knew that the M1 case came with such thing. I thought all the cases came with normal magnets, and you could buy the stronger ones extra. I really didn't like the stronger braking effect also, it has the tendency to spin when i drop the throttle if running in low grip surface.

And some updates.. the BEST mod I EVER got.. The super soft modular t-bars from CP Racing (http://www.mini-nascar.com/)!


These are VERY thin plates that can be piled up (it comes in a set of three) to get harder: 3-hard, 2-medium, 1-soft (SUPER soft actually). It might be too much for others to run only one plate, but for where i run its perfect. The car passes trough all regularities almost without vibrating, and it doesn't mind about the occasional chip-stone it might encounter anymore. Also, it spins a lot less when turning.

I also changed the Atomic adjustable shock to the previous position on the back mounts. It messes with the MR-015 battery clips on the front mounts. And I also changed the rear spring to a front one actually, since its much softer then the one that came with this shock.


It is also shorter but in the end it gives much more travel. Because its softer it compresses almost the double when in use and the trick to keep usable spring length is just to turn the blue cup around :)

I must say this 015 is now complete. I might add one or another part just for show, since i'm really looking in to those aluminium Team Atlas gunmetal wheels, the color coded front spring collars and cups (i have the derlin/plastic ones together inside a bag and cannot tell the difference), or the QteQ shaft/hub set (that is a piece of art), but when it comes to the desired functionality it is now 100%.

The idea was simple, for the car to be able to go over the surface it runs on, while keeping the 4 wheels on the ground, and here are some exaggerated pictures of what it can do.. (I really don't think it will have to go over mini-z wheels)