View Full Version : Gold terminals vs stock terminals...

2010.08.29, 07:38 PM
Just a quick question, does the gold terminals (on the SP chasis) really help or have any performance gains versus the stock terminals, which is the silver colored ones? OR, it doesn't really make any difference?

I have an SP chasis with the gold terminals, but very hesitant on making the switch as I'm not comfortable disassembling an MA010 with all the small parts especially with the servo stuff.


2010.08.29, 07:59 PM
I havent really noticed much of a difference. If there is, we arent using enough power to really notice it. If you are using the stock wiring on the board, I dont think you would even notice. With upgraded wires, and fets, it may make .05s difference in fast lap :rolleyes: Most of my cars have stock fets and dont have the gold terminals.

2010.08.29, 10:42 PM
If you read into what EMU said.....05 sec per lap and in a 10 minute race
that means possibly 2.5 seconds.....doesnt seem like much but if you are losing a race thats the difference.....
In any kind of racing speed along with other skills is what wins.....
Now the question for you is....
How much speed do I need?
You have the chassis already. Yes it can be a challenge to convert.
Plan out what you are going to do. Chassis swap maybe new bearings a new motor a gearing and wheelbase change...etc....
Work clean and on a towel. Have the directions handy all the tools you will need etc.....Just remember anything you screw up can be fixed....
and the satisfaction you will get from doing an Ma-10 chassis swap is priceless.....:cool:

2010.08.30, 01:08 AM
I would hold on to the chassis, and if you get a crack in it, swap it out. You dont have to use the SP servo brackets, you can just swap the entire servo assembly (done this plenty of times). It should take less than an hour for a novice to do the swap, and considerably less for an experienced driver.

My laptime estimate is not an accurate assessment, but more an estimation to explain that there is a difference, but is small. Sometimes 2.5s is all that is needed to win the race, or finish off the podium. It can be the difference of being able to block a line, or get just enough jump to make a pass... The feeling of the car is a little different from the SP chassis to the smoke, so also consider that. I prefer the SP chassis to the smoke personally. 2 of my AWD's have are the SP chassis kits that come unassembled with gold terminals. The new orange DWS chassis set that I have has the gray chassis, but does not have the gold terminals. I dont plan on rebuilding it for a gold terminal chassis.

2010.08.30, 06:17 AM
Emu makes a good point about the smoked (transluscent) chassis. Any such chassis from Kyosho is brittle. You can wait until it cracks and it will....
If you can bring your AWD and parts to the local track and I bet you will find some hands on help as well. Me an Emu are lucky we live and race in a mini z hotbed (NYC area). We have a large pool of racers who can help us or we help. Hopefully you have the same opportunity with your Z.

2010.08.30, 10:05 AM
Thanks EMU and Berm for your input. It was greatly appreciated.

If I would rank myself as a driver, I would say that I'm in the intermediate range. Even if the rough estimation of .05 sec a lap, I'm not sure if I can see the difference because I don't think that I can drive each lap consistently the same to see the exact difference :)

I do have the orange chasis that comes with the DWS and was thinking of swapping it to the SP gray chasis, but after seeing your post I'm now leaning towards just leaving the way things are.

I live in SoCal and Kyosho America corporate office is here in LakeForest and their track (R241) does Kyosho-spec racing meaning all Kyosho (and R246) parts only. So, I'll be using my DWS to enter.

By the way, you guys mentioned that the 'smoke' chasis are not as strong as the grey chasis? Does that mean that the SP 'smoke' chasis (any color) are not as strong as the SP 'grey' chasis?

2010.08.30, 10:24 AM
All transparent chassis are more brittle than the grey. They develop hairline cracks pretty easily, especially around the screw holes. My AWD chassis would get them near the battery compartment from collisions, where the body side clips tug at the chassis. Also, if you use larger batteries (they are not all exactly the same size), that will lead to cracks on the chassis as well.

An all Kyosho AWD chassis would not be bad. Kyosho has some good parts for it, especially the differentials and the DWS. I would recommend the 1.5d knuckles for the front. And make sure that you dont use too much front offset, which would lead to the front upper cover to crack (typically). If you have the blue/orange cover, I recommend you use that instead of the clear, and have a couple spares. The Kyosho alloy cover is very heavy, so I wouldnt use it unless you cut away all of the material above the diff... I have to check and see what parts R246 has for the AWD, as I havent seen their AWD lineup.

Extra speed/power doesnt help consistency, so definitely focus on setting the car up so it is easy to drive, then slowly look for speed as you develop your consistency. Dont search for speed yet, that will only increase the chances that you will crash.

2010.08.30, 10:35 AM
Good idea to save it til you get a crack in the old one. It took me less than 2 hours to switch completely over to the new SP chassis. The servo slides out together, and then you just slide it in the new chassis. Very easy step in the whole process. Nothing like resetting the servo in the Overland! Now that is a nightmare!

2010.08.30, 11:11 AM
Thanks for the pointers EMU.

R246 doesn't have any parts yet for the MA010 except for the TEs rims. I've mentioned R246 because I have an MR03 all setup for their GT1-spec (mid-mount only) class using Kyosho and R246 option parts with an X-Speed motor. R241 Raceway are on a carpet surface.

R241 Raceway don't have an MA010 Spec class yet, but after talking to them last month they may create one or two (Kyosho parts class & Unlimited class). Just in case they have an spec class using all Kyosho parts, then I'll have a car for it which is my DWS with Ball Diffs front & rear, ball bearings, X-Speed V motor & 1.5 camber fronts (I've been using 1.5 camber setups both front and rear in my other MA010 that I race on other RCP tracks using combination of Kyosho, PN & 3Racing parts with a PN 50t motor)

2010.08.30, 11:20 AM
i like the gold terminals cause to me they seem to be a little stronger then the stock and wil keep more pressure on the batttery which in return will give yoiu better power flow and higher volts... as far as swapping out the chassis you can just take the gold terminals outta the sp chassis and put htem in you your orange chassis... they just slide in and out... and if you are gonna be running at rt241 the gold terminals will be better for you for a spec class for reasons stated above...

2010.08.31, 12:09 AM
I went ahead and did the swap of my orange/grey chasis DWS to the grey SP chasis with the gold terminals.

Since I had to put ball bearings on the stock orange/grey DWS, I might as well do the whole swap. It wasn't that bad at all. It took me less than 30mins to do it.

2010.08.31, 06:50 AM
I went ahead and did the swap of my orange/grey chasis DWS to the grey SP chasis with the gold terminals.

Since I had to put ball bearings on the stock orange/grey DWS, I might as well do the whole swap. It wasn't that bad at all. It took me less than 30mins to do it.
Less than 30 minutes.....nice....:cool: