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View Full Version : New Atomic "17mm" Round-Motor-Can Mini-Z motor


Felix2010
2010.10.31, 04:58 PM
Hey guys,
what's the story on the new Atomic 17mm Mini-Z motor? The motor can looks round like a 540 motor can and also larger diameter-wise, so I'm thinking the armature is larger diameter-wise (instead of being longer-length-wise, which Long-Arms and Spiral arms have been around for a while now).

Any info on what this motor is supposed to be? Modified? Stock? Overall more torque AND more RPM's?

Any info would be great! THANKS!

herman
2010.11.01, 09:29 PM
kinda saw that somewhere too...

EMU
2010.11.02, 01:01 AM
By the pics, it looks like it is smaller in size than the widest, but larger than the narrowest width since it is round... Besides the pics, I know nothing about the motor.
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/news/17mm_motor.gif

Felix2010
2010.11.02, 12:07 PM
Very interesting for sure. Atomic seems to always bring us the latest in motor technology and innovation.:D I hope to hear more about this motor soon.

***Also, in some photos on rcAtomic . com and in the "New Products" thread, I could've sworn I saw a weird label on a couple motors. Maybe it's just a new label for an old motor, but if anyone from Atomic has info&specs about any new motors I would greatly appreciate it! :D

EMU
2010.11.02, 12:34 PM
I think you see the new 70t motor ;)

Felix2010
2010.11.02, 12:53 PM
I think you see the new 70t motor ;)

Aha! Thanks EMU.

color01
2010.11.02, 04:49 PM
Does anyone have a pic of the supposed 17mm motor? The pic EMU posted seems to show a 130-can to me.

EMU
2010.11.02, 05:15 PM
Brian, its a gif, look at it for about 30 seconds... and it will change and show the comparison of the 17mm to the 130

color01
2010.11.02, 11:49 PM
Ah, whoops. :o That's what I get for looking at MZR from a phone. 17mm motor looks interesting, I wonder what size the rotor is. The 130 is already filled up inside so wouldn't a round-can motor of 17mm have to have a smaller rotor = less torque?

bermbuster
2010.11.03, 07:10 AM
it looks to me to be a round can 130. which means you can have bigger magnets.The round can also has more airspace for cooling. With a round can you will have placement issues with most motor mounts.

EMU
2010.11.03, 11:41 AM
it looks to me to be a round can 130. which means you can have bigger magnets.The round can also has more airspace for cooling. With a round can you will have placement issues with most motor mounts.
Look at the size when it is in the motormount, it is not the same diameter. If you have a caliper, measure the 130 can... I guarantee that it is larger than 17mm. I would say 19, maybe 20mm at the widest part. So it is definitely not a round 130 (I thought that at first too).

I just took a 130, and put the armature shaft through a bearing in a PN 19mm wheel (off my pan car), and it looks to be the same diameter as the wheel. Maybe the magnets are thinner, but longer?

dgomes
2010.11.29, 04:04 PM
Does anyone knows if it mounts on a standard 130mm motor mount or requires a specific one?

EMU
2010.11.29, 05:07 PM
It looks like it is mounted in standard 130 ATM mount in the pictures...

unearthed name
2010.11.29, 10:18 PM
since it have m1 endbell, the motor should be able to mounted on the current motor mount

blt456
2010.11.29, 11:18 PM
since it have m1 endbell, the motor should be able to mounted on the current motor mount

There is no "one" motor mount and the endbell does not determine if you can use it on a mini-z. All mini-z motors have the same "d-cut" on the end of the motor but the m1 endbell is specifically made by atomic. It is not very reliable because you will notice your car stops when you crash due to the design with the brushes. The endbell used in this 17mm motor is NOT the m1 but the regular HE. The m1 has a brush system that uses springs to tension them against the commutator.

unearthed name
2010.11.30, 12:00 AM
Product No.: MO-028
Product Name: 17mm Stock Plus New Generation Motor
Quantity: 1 Piece



Basic Requirement: MOSFET 3010 x 2 / (1 layer)
Turns: 48T
Neo Magnet
Dual Ball bearing with High efficiency cooling case
Endbell: Type M1

that's the spec from egr and atomic.


edit: atomic-usa just post that the motor can be used in all atomic motor mount except the new 90 mm

blt456
2010.11.30, 12:43 AM
The two motor parts mo-015 and mo-015 are the same except for the endbell. Mo-015 comes with a quick release (regular HE) VS. Mo-005 that comes with the m1 (adjustable spring tension). In the picture of the new motor, it doesn't seem to have the m1 endbell, just the regular HE one on most of their ball bearing motors. (refer to mo-015)

vesahyp
2011.01.12, 06:29 AM
Anyone have any more specs on this like current draw and RPM?

Even better, has someone run it comparing to mod motors like the pn 43t, atomic chili or atomic stock r evo?

I'm looking for a mod motor that has good top speed and not too much more punch than the pn 70t so using just one setup would theoretically be possible. Oh and usable with mr02 ASF standard fetting.

tudor_47
2011.01.12, 07:10 AM
Anyone have any more specs on this like current draw and RPM?

Even better, has someone run it comparing to mod motors like the pn 43t, atomic chili or atomic stock r evo?

I'm looking for a mod motor that has good top speed and not too much more punch than the pn 70t so using just one setup would theoretically be possible. Oh and usable with mr02 ASF standard fetting.

for mod you might try the resently released T2 plus (http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=1956&category_id=38&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1)which is a T2 motor in a round can.

Traveler
2011.01.12, 07:29 AM
Anyone have any more specs on this like current draw and RPM?

Even better, has someone run it comparing to mod motors like the pn 43t, atomic chili or atomic stock r evo?

ATM 17mm Stock Plus Motor from HERE (http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=1949&category_id=23&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1)

48 Turn
0.9Amp Draw
35,000 RPM

Sounds interesting. There is also a Super Stock and as mentioned a T-2 Plus.

SaiTam reported on testing the 48T one HERE (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33220&page=17).

vesahyp
2011.01.12, 07:56 AM
Thanks guys, i'll give the 48t a try and push my local track/store guy to get some T2 plusses into stock.

How will the MR02 stock fets fare with the T2 plus? At 35t it sounds like i might need a fet upgrade?

Traveler
2011.01.12, 08:15 AM
The T-2 on 2x2 3010 stock FETs will work, but a FET upgrade would be highly recommended.

vesahyp
2011.01.12, 08:44 AM
The T-2 on 2x2 3010 stock FETs will work, but a FET upgrade would be highly recommended.

Thanks! If the 48t is as fun to drive as the pn 70t i might get me a mr03 with fet upgrades for mod racing only. Thanks again for the help!

Traveler
2011.01.12, 09:02 AM
I just ordered the ATM 48T to try. Expect it will have a lot more torque and top end than a PN70T. If its anything like the old PN SpeedyNM (47T), I'd expect it to be loads of fun to drive. Good luck!

Felix2010
2011.01.12, 09:46 AM
SO overall,

The 3 "new" Atomic 17mm-rotor Round-Can motors have these specs:

48t Stock-Plus New-Gen 17mm, Neo Mag: 34000 RPM @4.8v, 0.9Amp draw;

40t Super-Stock New-gen 17mm, Neo Mag: 38000 RPM @4.8v, 0.9A draw;

35t T2-Plus New-Gen 17mm, Neo Mag: 41000 RPM @4.8v, 0.9Amp draw;


I would like to know, has anyone compared an armature from any of these Atomic "17mm" motors to a standard-EGR-type motor can armature from say a regualr T2? Or any 130-size motor armature vs. the 17mm New-Gen ATM motors?

I like how Atomic pushes the envelope with motors. They bust out new ideas, and it's good for the hobby. The question is, what benefits, better yet - What Advantages (Period) do the "17mm" armatures have over the 130-size motors&armatures from motors such as the ATM Stock Yellow label; The ATM T2 130-can motor; And what about the ATM "M1" motors like the Stock-R and Chili? These 2 motors, the Stock-R and Chili are damn fine motors. The technology is great for this scale. The ability to adjust spring tension, have the brushes "U'grooved and 180-degrees from each other on the endbell, and the excellent power delievery have the older-2 ATM M1-type motors still on my fave list. Why not improve on those motors, the CHili and Stock-R? Are the New-Gen 17mm motors from ATM really going to be the new kings in town?

- Do the 17mm New-Gen motors :
1.)have faster wind-up?
2.)Better powerband?
3.)Are the 17mm Motors lighter in weight vs. standard 130 can motors?

Does anyone see these new ATM 17mm motors becoming the new race motors of choice? And if so , Why?

I am very interested in these motors, and all motor technology for that matter. The good things I've heard about the 48t Stock-Plus 17mm Ne-Gen ATM motor has me wondering - WHat if I re-wound a 17mm armature with new 28ga enamel wire, taking the armature itself from a ATM Stock-Plus motor,making it so that it became a 32t 17mm armature/in a round ATM can with Neos? Are we possibly looking at more efficiency PLUS the same type of torque/wind-up and performance (Maybe even better performance) from these 17mm armature/motors? Or does the Atomic "M1" individual-spring-tensioned brushes, high-quality 380/540-style brushes used with the M1 cans, and the larger motor/armature/etc. - Do all these things still make the ATM M1 motors (ie Chili+Stk-R) the best overall motor design for making the slickest, highest-performing motors around?

I would love to hear some people chime in on this. I personally like the M1 cans the best; It would be a shame if Atomic's Stk-R & CHili motors were just flash-in-the-pan type motors never to be improved upon again. If the "17mm New-Gen" ATM motors can out-perform all other 130-class motors (If they are designed and tuned for that purpose - And also tuned right, of course) - Then does anyone think the 17mm motors hold the future of Z RCP racing? Or will tried-n'-True EGR-"regular-clip-in brushes", and the ATM M1 series of motors - Do these still reign as the creme-de-la-creme of Mini-Z motors?

BTW - No knocking PN, they have some nice motor for sure, with good quality parts. I am just saying that ATomic has brought 2 completely-new styles of micro-motors to the Z scene in the past 5 years.... PN's design in motors is more conservative, "What works". PN's motor are high-quality, but honestly - Just a tad boring (If I may say so myself:) )

Comments please!:D:D

Traveler
2011.01.12, 09:53 AM
Good questions. I suspect ATM believes they will, but I think its too soon to tell if these new cans will be the future.

bermbuster
2011.01.12, 10:49 AM
They are already sold out in the metro NYC area....:mad:
I looked online and with a delivery date from HK of February......
Come on Atomic USA use your powers and get us more soon....:cool:

Traveler
2011.01.12, 10:56 AM
George, check your PMs.

Atomic-USA
2011.01.12, 10:59 AM
@Felix2010

- Do the 17mm New-Gen motors :

*Based on the comparison of new 48T round can vs. old Atomic Stock 48T

1.)have faster wind-up? Yes

2.)Better powerband? Yes, smoother

3.)Are the 17mm Motors lighter in weight vs. standard 130 can motors?

Yes, about 2g less. I usually remove the capacitors altogether also. The mass is also more centralized compared to old design.

The complaints of StockR/Chili motor design include -- too complicated for regular racers to handle the different combo of springs/brushes and soldering brush wires. There was occasional hung brush issue as well. Unfortunately the most advanced innovation does not always sell the best or even perform the best if not properly utilized. This is why we try to make parts such as suspension and motors as simple and affordable as possible.

@bermbuster
There is a very high demand of our new motors worldwide. Get the 40T super stock quick.

Felix2010
2011.01.12, 11:24 AM
Thank you for the info. :D I understand what you mean about new technology sometimes having a lot of tuning trial&error, adjustment & precision needed for 100% performance. But isn't utilizing every tool in our arsenal, every scrap of info, and every bit of tuning expertise to make our cars the fastest and most precise cars for a given class race - Isn't this what most of use hard-core guys really dig about building and tuning our our cars?:D The M1 cans I still feel should be given some new life. The price point is not bad at all, and you get technology only seen on much larger scales! I for one have seen the occasional hung-brush on an M1 can, and it was my fault for not checking the alignment of the brush cylinders. I love the M1 design though. A lot of guys never touch on the tuning power the M1 cans offer...

The T2-Plus looks very cool. I might have to try that

Atomic-USA
2011.01.12, 11:41 AM
No pun intended, but we observed that hard core racers (both in US and non-US) are actually reducing the popularity of Mini-z racing. Expensive matched NiMh cells / Overly complicated parts / trying to make a slow motor go fast rather than conveniently buying a faster motor / unreasonable part prices compared to 10th scale are turning people away at the track. We will try our best to accommodate all types of Mini-z racers and convert larger scale racers into Mini-z racing. We hope to strike the balance between hobby and science in Mini-z.

Felix2010
2011.01.12, 12:06 PM
Thank you again Sai. I can understand what you're saying about the quasi-1/10th feel of some chassis-part development. A balance between all-out pro-level competition and intermediate/amateur racing (Sportsman vs. Super-stock vs. Open Modified) could be a good thing. But from what I've seen, just from an availability point-of-view, is that the intricate&expensive parts don't seem to lose any money on the part of their manufacturers. Many new things have come and gone and I've rarely if ever seen those high-end expensive parts sitting in the bargain bin with no one to buy them. All the expensive stuff sells quickly, and it sells to a particular crowd for sure. This scale has seen much innovation; Much of that innovation has been complex and hard to bring to the real world. But the scale is better for the advancement of technology used. Look at all the guys who are making homegrown parts now! The experimentation is a lot of the fun for some of use guys. Big money for parts isn't necessary, I know that - But to have the latest scientific motor pod; the latest $80 ball diff, the latest suspension setups - All these make the hobby what it is. Pushing the envelope is what many of the guys I talk to look for and want, even if they like going back to simplicity sometimes. Those same guys always get hooked back in by some crazy-dope hop-up that just gets released with some serious science behind it. Just my opinion of course. It's a back and forth business. Push the envelope, spare no expense; The economically-friendly revisions on older parts that are more affordable and less intimidating - There's a pace for both in our hobby I would think?:D

arch2b
2011.01.12, 01:40 PM
i agree with sai. the overall direction most competitive racing is going forsakes the average joe in general and turns a blind eye to the novice entirely (with exception of regional club events). more and more you find yourself walking around pits with complex and expensive setup of both cars and pit tables as well to be honest. for better or worse it has a real affect on the perception of events and conversely the participation. i enjoy and support the technical improvements being made on what seems like a monthly basis however without continued support for the entry levels, your cutting your legs out from under you in the long run.

sorry to have taken this off topic. i'm sure there are threads on this subject already. i'll take a look and maybe we can interject some new thoughts and spur further debate on the issue vs. taking up Sai's space on the 17mm motor.

Skv012a
2011.01.12, 07:28 PM
Sounds like a decent challenge to me- try to keep my 03 fairly stock and squeeze the most out of it. Given that it performs better stock than ultra-modded 02, at least in my opinion, there's definitely hope for all new average Joes out there.

As far as the new motors, I'll definitely be down to try a couple next time I'm ordering Z stuff.

bermbuster
2011.01.12, 09:41 PM
the sad reality is nobody likes stock for long.....the nature of the beast is Winning....
Mini Z racers especially the seasoned pros who know that stock racing is a money pit do not give it up. Why??? They like competition and winning....
I understand marketing and if you look at Atomic and there market share in the US....It is small. It makes sense when you cannot beat the competition you come up with a new strategy. The new 17mm round can is the new buzz and how many did Atomic flood the market with? Maybe 100? Atomic is testing the water for there new technology. Right now everyone is raving about the motor but how will it perform in the long haul?

Atomic-USA
2011.01.12, 10:07 PM
Berm, you are thinking too much. It's just a new motor that we are selling.

Forget about Stock being money pit / market share / beat the competition / new strategy / Testing the water, etc.... 48T ATM Stock motor has been around for quite some time. It's just time for a refresh and improvement.

bermbuster
2011.01.12, 10:22 PM
Berm, you are thinking too much. It's just a new motor that we are selling.

Forget about Stock being money pit / market share / beat the competition / new strategy / Testing the water, etc.... 48T ATM Stock motor has been around for quite some time. It's just time for a refresh and improvement.

Its just a new motor.....
48T ATM Stock motor has been around for quite some time......

Sai...your exactly right....Im thinking because I dont have one to make my own opinion.....:D
If it has been around why cant I get one???
In reality the armature 48t has been around. It has been fitted into a round can
(which makes it new) you added neo magnets and a nice yellow sticker....
When will they be back on the shelves ? After the Chinese New Year?

EMU
2011.01.13, 12:52 AM
The ATM Stock-BB has been around for a long time... It is one of my favorite motors. 48t, Neo magnets. Lots of torque to get you out of the corner, with good drag brake...

Im not sure if the 17mm motor shares the same armature as the old yellow label...

Some clubs/tracks may not want to accept the 17mm can initially, as they may limit the motors to a 130 can. The 17mm round can is a change from the standard that has been around since the start of the Mini-Z. The difference between the 130 and 17mm can has not really been established yet, but it soon will be.

There are also 40t and 35t options in 17mm cans, which should satisfy racers who would like more speed...

Atomic-USA
2011.01.13, 12:55 AM
@berm

The round can 48T has been on sale for a while until it became sold out recently. You could've ordered it online / direct or bought from the two nearest NJ local shops. I'd hate to say it but it was your own fault.;) Expect it to come back in Mid to Late Feb

@EMU

I was told the armature is different.

vesahyp
2011.01.13, 02:09 AM
After reading all this, i have new found respect for our racetrack shop for stocking all the new stuff!

And as a newcomer to mini-z i have to comment on Sai and hardcore racers. All the setups, part combinations, speculation and even science is at least half of the fun for me. I've never raced any other class so i don't know how prices compare to 1/10 but so far with the 02 i've found nothing too expensive yet (the a-arm setup being the single most expensive hop-up i have).

Ofcourse reading forums i sometimes get worked up by all the weird combinations available and am stumped on what to actually buy when i get to the track. But at the end of the day, nobody needs to know about cell matching or that kind of stuff. I drive an MR02 at a track where MR03s are the standard and am one of the faster drivers. Most people use the ko-propo eurus, i drive with the kt-18. Good old practice is all it takes!

bermbuster
2011.01.13, 05:14 AM
After reading all this, i have new found respect for our racetrack shop for stocking all the new stuff!

And as a newcomer to mini-z i have to comment on Sai and hardcore racers. All the setups, part combinations, speculation and even science is at least half of the fun for me. I've never raced any other class so i don't know how prices compare to 1/10 but so far with the 02 i've found nothing too expensive yet (the a-arm setup being the single most expensive hop-up i have).

Ofcourse reading forums i sometimes get worked up by all the weird combinations available and am stumped on what to actually buy when i get to the track. But at the end of the day, nobody needs to know about cell matching or that kind of stuff. I drive an MR02 at a track where MR03s are the standard and am one of the faster drivers. Most people use the ko-propo eurus, i drive with the kt-18. Good old practice is all it takes!
Come race in Metro NYC....we will see if you got what it takes...:D

tudor_47
2011.01.13, 05:40 AM
After reading all this, i have new found respect for our racetrack shop for stocking all the new stuff!

And as a newcomer to mini-z i have to comment on Sai and hardcore racers. All the setups, part combinations, speculation and even science is at least half of the fun for me. I've never raced any other class so i don't know how prices compare to 1/10 but so far with the 02 i've found nothing too expensive yet (the a-arm setup being the single most expensive hop-up i have).

Ofcourse reading forums i sometimes get worked up by all the weird combinations available and am stumped on what to actually buy when i get to the track. But at the end of the day, nobody needs to know about cell matching or that kind of stuff. I drive an MR02 at a track where MR03s are the standard and am one of the faster drivers. Most people use the ko-propo eurus, i drive with the kt-18. Good old practice is all it takes!

Stay tuned to the Swedish forum pocketz.se (http://pocketz.se/)as in spring 2011 there will be large mini-z race in Stockholm, on RCP track. Information about that race will be presented there.

vesahyp
2011.01.13, 06:58 AM
Come race in Metro NYC....we will see if you got what it takes...:D

Hah! Looking at the best laptimes people have on the pn wc 2010 track with stock motors i'm still a second behind! This means we're a bit behind here in the cold north but that just makes me push twice as hard!

Stay tuned to the Swedish forum pocketz.se as in spring 2011 there will be large mini-z race in Stockholm, on RCP track. Information about that race will be presented there.

I'll keep an eye open if i have the chance to come over! What track layout do you use?

tudor_47
2011.01.13, 09:52 AM
Hah! Looking at the best laptimes people have on the pn wc 2010 track with stock motors i'm still a second behind! This means we're a bit behind here in the cold north but that just makes me push twice as hard!

I'll keep an eye open if i have the chance to come over! What track layout do you use?

The last two times it was run on the PNWC regional layouts, this time around I do not know what the layout will be... I am not organizing the event, but I will be there! MiniZšta is in ÷stersund

fraga
2011.01.31, 06:32 PM
What is the recommended gear ratio for the new 17mm T2-Plus?

EMU
2011.01.31, 07:56 PM
I havent tried it, but I would expect it to be low geared... around 6.5-6 When I get one to try I will post more, but I expect to use the Super Stock 40t before then...

ByronF1
2011.02.10, 05:54 PM
Did some one already tried these motors??

Rune
2011.02.10, 06:11 PM
I have tried the round T2 motor, and I like it.
Lots of drag brake. I think the magnets are a bit bigger.
I would call it an "easy to drive" motor. It seems to have a linear powerband.

The different design did not change the balance of the car (at least to my notice).
It is roughly 1,5 grams lighter than an equivalent turn off the shelf motor.

The thing I did not like, was that it has the mounting holes placed so it wont fit in some of the competitors motor mounts without drilling new holes in it.
It is maybe wrong to say it does not fit, but the problem is that you get the motor cables in the wrong place to route them nicely.

Atomic should consider making it with 4 mounting holes instead of two.

I geared it 10/53.

EMU
2011.02.10, 07:23 PM
I would like 4 mounting holes... but I am using a 17mm motor in my PN 94mm LCG4 mount with great results. I just had to route the wires a little differently.

I tried the 48t and the 40t, but not the 35t. I like both, and have had good results with them. Linear power delivery, and good drag brake effect but not overbearing.

Digitalis West
2011.02.10, 07:37 PM
I think the mounting holes are the way they are because to have them in the normal position would interfere with the magnets with the smaller can. After struggling a little, I think I like the new positioning better. I am running the tri-shock and I can run the wires so that they are supported by the tri-shock bar giving me a much cleaner routing than I had before. With the PN 94/96 mount at 96mm I could even fit the motor in the mount with the 98mm low down motor holder.

After playing with the gearing a lot I am running a very tall 12/52 but I may have to back off a little because it is getting a bit warmer than I would like. At this gearing I am still loosing top end to the T2/Z2 and PN32 folks where I race.

So... stuff I like... Light, small, can be mounted "creatively," super smooth power band, lots of torque and drag brake.

Stuff I don't like... Seems down on power compared to a full size T2 or PN32 (even though it is much easier to drive) and brush life is absurdly bad.... The stock brushes wore out in 1/4 the time of full silver brushes on my AD. I put in a second set... We will see how this goes but I know I am not the only one having brush life issues with this motor.

ByronF1
2011.02.18, 01:36 PM
I would like 4 mounting holes... but I am using a 17mm motor in my PN 94mm LCG4 mount with great results. I just had to route the wires a little differently.

I tried the 48t and the 40t, but not the 35t. I like both, and have had good results with them. Linear power delivery, and good drag brake effect but not overbearing.

Do you have pics?

hrdrvr
2011.02.18, 02:50 PM
... and brush life is absurdly bad.... The stock brushes wore out in 1/4 the time of full silver brushes on my AD.

Wow, I had the exact opposite feel on my 48t motor. I ran it for hours and hours and the brushes are still not seated properly. They are still in need of a LOT more break in time. I am just going to run the motor like it is, as I am scared to wear out the bearings, lol.

Maybe it is a spring tension issue, but IDK for sure. I tried tightening them a lot, but still wear is extremely slow.


One thing I liked, and thought was creative, was that the motor I got was sold with one silver and one carbon brush. This is a tuning trick I have heard of (and used) in the past, but never seen a motor come from the factory like this. Kudos for more out of the box thinking for ATM!!

Traveler
2011.02.18, 02:58 PM
One thing I liked, and thought was creative, was that the motor I got was sold with one silver and one carbon brush. This is a tuning trick I have heard of (and used) in the past, but never seen a motor come from the factory like this. Kudos for more out of the box thinking for ATM!!

LT, The ATM T2 and Z2 came like this. Its cool, I agree, but one down side if you want to continue with this setup, is when you want to replace the brushes. There is not an option to buy a pair with +silver and -carbon (hint, hint ATM). You have to buy two sets of brushes to get a replacement pair. ATM sells carbon brushes in 2 pairs to a set and silver brushes 1 pair to a set. So you end up with a lot of unused brushes. Good news is, ATM brushes are very reasnoable priced :)

I really like the motor wire that come with my 48T. Although I don't use them (motors hardwire to board), the quality seemed excellent and the eyelettes for thoes that screw wires to the board are small, so less chance of shorting something. :cool:

So far, I really like my 48T :)

Skv012a
2011.02.22, 04:34 AM
I finally got a 40T one in mail. Breaking it in as I type and then will give it a shot on thursday along with the ATM 90mm MM mount and its DPS.

ByronF1
2011.02.23, 07:41 PM
please take pictures with your comments....

Digitalis West
2011.02.24, 03:00 AM
Here is a picture of the 17mm motor in my mod car at the Tekin. I will try to take more pictures when I can. In this setup I am using the 98mm motor arm with the 96mm mount so that the motor can mount really low. The negative motor wire is run under the tri-shock plate and then with the positive wire between the tri-shock arm and the side shock. The wires are then soldered so that they stick out straight sideways to the left of the car.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg235/HydrazineIsFire/PICT0571.jpg

Skv012a
2011.02.25, 12:58 AM
I do want to note that I like that the motor wires are facing the top when this thing is mounted- no more interferance with the diff axle and plenty of room for wires to dangle in.

Traveler
2011.02.25, 04:00 AM
What mount are you using for the tabs to face up? With PN mounts, the tabs face forward (9 o-clock position) on 98-102 mount like previous picture and somewhere betweel 10 and 11 o-clock on the 94-98 mounts. Not the most convenient positions, but I've been able to make them work.

chad508
2011.02.25, 08:36 AM
on the pn reconfig. you can mount it on the 98 mount in the 90 position and it will face straight up

Traveler
2011.02.25, 03:12 PM
Ahh... I see. Don't have any of those mounts yet.

geeunit1014
2011.03.06, 07:46 PM
Just got to try one this Saturday. Ran the 48t, and absolutely loved it. Better feel/powerband for my driving style. Extra plus is that it does seem more efficient than the PN motors ive been using. Needless to say, I think this motor is staying in my car ;)

Chicken Little
2011.04.07, 11:40 AM
Are we getting more versions of the new 17mm motors? I was hoping for something like a 33 turn for mod. My 35 turn lacks the low end punch I feel I need but is a rocket in the straight. I've tried different gearing options as well.

machgo5go
2011.05.17, 10:35 PM
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh123/machgo5go/ReflexPartsAtomic48T001Medium.jpg
ZF vs. Stock plus: Beside 1K rpm higher in Stock Plus, is there much differences?
1st. time buying one of these 17mm round car of ZF which tested with 53/12T. It was quite fast out of the box which I will gear up another tooth to 13T since I am topping out already at mid straight & motor is running quite cool.

Traveler
2011.05.18, 08:32 AM
ZF vs. Stock plus: Beside 1K rpm higher in Stock Plus, is there much differences?
1st. time buying one of these 17mm round car of ZF which tested with 53/12T. It was quite fast out of the box which I will gear up another tooth to 13T since I am topping out already at mid straight & motor is running quite cool.

Nice RR/PN car there "Bruce". I seem to recall reading that the blue 48T has a more linear power band than the yellow 48T... I really need to find an excuse to make it back up to Maj's.

Traveler
2011.05.18, 08:39 AM
HERE (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=412065&postcount=278) you go Bruce!

machgo5go
2011.05.18, 01:53 PM
Nice RR/PN car there "Bruce". I seem to recall reading that the blue 48T has a more linear power band than the yellow 48T... I really need to find an excuse to make it back up to Maj's.
Thanks guys for the input. That is exactly driving feeling from this motor instead of an ON/OFF power like other torquey motors.

Atomic-USA
2011.06.14, 10:21 AM
The ZF Blue label 48T has a higher top end than the Yellow 48T and has a little more roll. It is a very linear motor and well liked by many racers.

EMU
2011.06.14, 12:09 PM
It is my understanding that the difference between the yellow 48t and the blue 48t is the magnets, with the yellow having stronger magnets. Which will give a higher RPM range and power curve for the blue, and more low end/overall torque to the yellow with slightly less RPM.