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winner
2010.11.04, 09:18 PM
just saw these, i searched around and didnt see anything about them. are they any good? do they break as easy as plastic ones?

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/awd-carbon-camber-kunckle-set-102030-p-3689.html

Cherub1m
2010.11.04, 10:09 PM
just saw these, i searched around and didnt see anything about them. are they any good? do they break as easy as plastic ones?

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/awd-carbon-camber-kunckle-set-102030-p-3689.html

I have a few of those they are light and are harder then the stock plastic ones. However, they still break. If you can minimize accidents they will last a lot longer then the stock plastic ones. I went back to the 3Racing Alum. knuckles after I broke one of the carbon knuckles in a middle of a race.

winner
2010.11.04, 10:24 PM
alright thanks, i guess i'll aviod them, are the 3racing knuckles as good as kyosho or atomics? the price defintly looks good but alot of their products just dont look too convinceing

Skv012a
2010.11.04, 10:59 PM
alright thanks, i guess i'll aviod them, are the 3racing knuckles as good as kyosho or atomics? the price defintly looks good but alot of their products just dont look too convinceing

Its a knuckle, so there isn't much rocket science involved like in a ball diff, so yea, 3R are definitely the best due to prices.

EMU
2010.11.05, 03:14 AM
The 3Racing is the most durable knuckle for the AWD. The precision and quality is very good as well. They are not the lightest on the market, but funtion well for a very durable knuckle. They do not have a delrin sleeve where they slide in the chassis. This means that they more alloy in the kingpin, and increases the durability over knuckles that use a sleeve. Grease tends to work better with the plastic sleeves better than the alloy, so for dampening reasons I prefer knuckles with sleeves. I use a set of 3Racing 1d on the front of my Kyosho DWS car.

The carbon knuckles work very well, and are very light... but are not as durable as any of the alloy knuckles. They are roughly equivalent to the standard plastic knuckles, but I like they way they perform better than the plastic since they need less damping, and have more available degrees of camber so you can fine tune a little better. They are relatively cheap... Depending on what you do with the car, and what body you use with wheel offset, they may serve good use. But if you use a narrower car, I would recommend an alloy knuckle.

You want to make sure that the body has enough coverage over the wheels to protect them, and your knuckles. I make sure that my wheels are well tucked in. I typically use at a maximum 2.5mm offset front wheel, if the body can use a 3.5mm wheel. If the body can only use a 2.5mm wheel, I use a 2mm, or possibly 1.5mm depending on the class body/motor limitations.

Eman
2010.11.05, 02:40 PM
I like PN knuckles. They sometimes require a shim or two but thats a small price for large selection of camber options. The biggest consideration is who your buying it from. Customer service is paramount. There are outfits out there that will take your money, but will never answer your emails if you have a problem. Thats why I mostly buy PN Racing. If you have a problem they take care of it right away. That goes a long way with me.

Atomic-USA
2010.11.07, 01:57 PM
Keep in mind that alloy knuckles may not break into pieces but they may bend under hard impacts and you may not even know it. I don't think any manufacturer would label their plastic or alloy knuckles as indestrutible. A racer should be aware of the consequences of using either type of knuckle(Break or Bend). When my AWD does not handle well sometimes I swap all the knuckles to plastic/carbon with the same amount of camber. The carbon knuckles are light and affordable; they are similar to plastic knuckles in terms of durability. They either break or not break under impacts but generally won't bend. Alloy knuckles are heavier and have less DNF; but they may bend under hard impact.

Carbon version 0 - 3D camber in .5 increment:
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/medium/atomic/AWD209_210_m.jpg

Alloy version 0 - 2.5D Camber in .5 increment:
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/medium/atomic/AWD185_m.jpg

EMU
2010.11.07, 04:16 PM
I completely agree with what was said above. I have bent many alloy knuckles, that while I was able to complete the race, I was way off pace because the car was behaving irregular.

Also, with sleeved alloy knuckles, I always glue the sleeve in place so it doesnt move after I grease it to dampen the suspension.

winner
2010.11.07, 05:34 PM
alright thanks guys! i guess i'll stert looking for a set of sleeved knuckles. but thanks alot for the tips and comments! :)

Skv012a
2010.11.08, 02:31 AM
Alloy knuckles are heavier and have less DNF; but they may bend under hard impact.


So out of curiosity, they can bend under any setup or mostly when used with an alloy tie rod? I can't imagine plastic tie rod bending the steering posts before breaking itself or are we talking about the main mounting posts of the knuckles?

Atomic-USA
2010.11.08, 10:56 AM
What you are saying is that an alloy knuckle connected to a plastic rod make the alloy knuckle unbendable?

Both plastic and alloy components can be damaged at the same time.

I'd say the possibility of broken plastic ti-rod + bent alloy knuckles exists. Also on the AWD the front lower arms from the chassis tend to deform over time. I use these to save an old AWD chassis.

AWD189
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/addition_atomic/AWD189_install_1.jpg

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/addition_atomic/AWD189_install_2.jpg

Here is a video of my 90mm Beetle running the above lower arm setup:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJOaJ1mEJr4

Skv012a
2010.11.08, 06:11 PM
That lower tower bar is pretty interesting, I may try it sometime in the future.

EMU
2010.11.08, 07:10 PM
Its also pretty useful to adjust weight balance. I bought one so I can switch to and from the A-arm setup if I want to go back to a standard kingpin front.