View Full Version : speed on the track...PN80T

2011.01.01, 03:41 PM
Very nice! I haven't seen one on the track... To give an idea to those that are curious to see, on how fast/slow they look on the track, here's Maj's A-main drivers. ;)

Sup Mikey, Maj and Sai! Wait... is Edel in there too? :)

video here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4gcrOkL5K4)

2011.01.01, 07:13 PM
How is that any slower than their 70t A-mains? :eek:

Btw Happy New Year everyone, just got back. :)

2011.01.01, 07:26 PM
I was lucky enough to get there twice in December and ran 80T both times. They do run good and yes they are slower. The main thing is the right gearing and you really cant mess up and loose your momentum. You have to keep your speed up ALL the time.

2011.01.02, 02:17 PM
We had a chance to hold a race night with 80T at Kenon too and IMHO the racing was as much fun as any 70T race and in some ways maybe more due to closer lap times and closer number of laps among racers. In a good way the overall racing feel is different with 80T in the cars.
Agree with both points made by lfisminiz and to that I'll add that the start of the race becomes a lot more important compared to 70T racing.

Brian, welcome back. A lot of racing activity been going on lately at Kenon...Are you going to be able to make the Mini-Z Pan Mod race at TQ on January 23rd...massive 90x45 10th scale carpet track:D

2011.01.02, 05:45 PM
I bought two motors and ran this a couple of times; I agree with slower speed leads to closer racing, but....... it is frustrating when your buddy's motor (dyno verified) is much faster than your motor(both sealed) and when there are always people who have the money and resources for obtaining best matched cells and blow you away on the straightaway. There may also be rumors and arguments about cheating at the track. I personally enjoy racing 70T and higher speed classes more. Too slow of a motor is also not the best way to promote Mini-z racing to newcomers and racers coming from larger scale. Read the faces when you tell them this is what your $400 souped up Mini-z looks like vs. when you are running a modified motor. However, a bonus about running 80T is that it is so ssssss....loooooow that the tires don't seem to wear a lot; which is not good for the shop owners.

2011.01.02, 07:13 PM
True about low wearing tires and further more a much wider range of tire choices work just fine due to lower power and speeds...almost any tire works with 80T. Chassis set up is also less of a factor but still a factor.
I think 80T motor can be great for novelty classes such as mini-cooper (90mm hatchback), 86mm Porsche body class, and 4 door sedan class which can benefit from lower speeds due to handling limitations...hope more of those classes pop up. Mini-Z racing needs some variety just like larger scale electric on road enjoys already.

For core club racing stock classes I agree that it is probably just a tad too slow as well as it will probably make non racing sessions of test & tune less appealing when you're running alone and the car is slow. (specially noticeable when batteries start going soft)
I still would love to run 80T vs 70T (hopefully hand out) at big event though because I think it will act as an equalizer to some extent.

We came up with a EZ-SPEC STOCK class for our club to address all issues you bring up with batteries and sealed motors (check PM). sealed motors don't mean anything unfortunately when it comes to cranking so hand out is the solution, on the battery department as long as no one has a zapper @ home only same brand and type of battery should be used...it all comes down to implementing rules.

2011.01.02, 07:34 PM
We have here two successful Narrow 70T classes locally, each with a different flavor. For Wide I enjoy higher speed such as 60T and below.

2011.01.04, 12:31 PM
Mini-z Racing meets both ends: driving enjoyment/close battles and high speed Pro racing.

Slower sometimes means more exciting races and newcomers to RC to adapt more quickly. Excellent for making mini-z GROW.

Faster means more money has to go to the chassis, unless you are a very skilled driver, which can make a bigger difference than a limited slip differential or than an oil filled rear shock absorber.

I enjoy both. But mainly I love slower motors cause the races are more populated and they reduce the distance between drivers, but specially cause your driving skills are what makes the REAL difference.

You can't make mistakes with a slower motor. With a faster motor, some driving errors can be "left-aside" (cause speed may compensate).

At our club we have pretty much a similar ambiance as SaiTam explains (fat pockets and cheating rumors), and we started long time ago, in a small track (9x5 meters) running Xmod stock motors. Cheap and slow they made fantastic races in our Stock class.

But when we upgraded our track to 13x8 metres, these motors were just too small. So we moved to Kyosho stocks with a limit to 7 tooth pinions. Again we had great races until, some fat pockets bought a pile of motors, to choose those two or three that blew out the rest. Sad but Stock races were ruined.

We are now moving to PN50t or ATM Stock motors, but limiting the pinions to 6 tooth.

We tested the PNWC70 but found out that there was too much differences between them (some were very fast, some were very slow).

Money and motors are big problems.

Our Pro class has no limits so there are less problems, but also... less qualified drivers!

2011.01.04, 04:19 PM
In 'stock' classes, battery equipment, chassis modifications... cost a lot more than what the faster motor classes do. My setups are very similar, but I have to buy new batteries at least every 3 months to be competitive. If everyone just setup the cars, and drove, the stock classes would be fun, but its much more work than even a ATM Stock car to get on the track. I only have one car that has a fet job, and its for a 70t stock class car. I prefer the feel of the 3010 fets anyway... I usually avoid running 70t classes, but occasionally do when its a fun class like 70t narrow. As Sai stated, we have 2 different tracks that run 70t narrow classes (one restricted to 90mm and narrow wheels all around). These are the most fun classes that I race, and races are very close.

2011.01.04, 06:04 PM
Slow motor class costs more money for sure, whether small track or large track: Buy more motors to get a good one / Fet job / Matched cells / Muchmore discharger / replacing cells often due to high charge rate/ blue print motor or whatever they call it. It's easier to tune down a fast motor than to tune up a slow motor.

For Action Stock class I just open a 48T motor from the package and run it with any batteries with a low charge rate. I'm never slow. I don't even bring my 5amp discharger or use my matched cells.

I'm all for limiting the gearing, but nobody listens to me here locally. For example: "any motor w/6T or 9T 64p pinion".

I am debating whether I should run 80T this Friday or run 48T at another track.

2011.01.04, 07:24 PM
Sai, I have been using the PN39t in my 430gt with 9t 64p. The mod motors run better with lower gearing, and I would be happy to run any gearing you want to restrict. We can make our own gentlemans rules ;)