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View Full Version : swapped motors now stearing is glitching


bevo
2011.03.08, 04:57 PM
I switched form a pn 70 to a reflex 70t to try it out. Now my steering is glitching some and my engine is cutting in and out some. It also doesn't seem like it is reving out like it should.

Any ideas what could be wrong?

hrdrvr
2011.03.08, 05:01 PM
Did you break your motor in? At a race I recently attended there were a few people having glitching issues with their hand-out RR 70t motors. The fix was just to break it in until the brushes were seated and arching was cut down. I don't think any one had problems by the end of the day.

bevo
2011.03.08, 05:23 PM
I paid for the break in, but I don't really know if it was done or not.
Why would a non broke in motor make my steering glitch? I have no clue when it comes to these electric motors.

Did you break your motor in? At a race I recently attended there were a few people having glitching issues with their hand-out RR 70t motors. The fix was just to break it in until the brushes were seated and arching was cut down. I don't think any one had problems by the end of the day.

J-Milz
2011.03.08, 08:46 PM
It's funny because my buddy Scott suggested the same thing to me just today. I told him my car was clutching like a son of a ..... ,and I thought it was my steering fets that were on the way out. He asked what motor I had in it, and I told him it was one of those CT Atomic can 70t motors. He immediately said get rid of it and put the PN motor back in. I did and wow, it worked. What gives? How can a 70t motor effect steering? I have a Atomic yellow label in my other class car an it's fine. It's a more powerful motor. What gives??

EMU
2011.03.08, 09:19 PM
The ATM/CT 70t motors have a smaller comm than the PN. This means that there is more contact area between each brush and the comm. When the motor is not broken in fully, it will arc much more than a motor with a larger comm. What it also means, is that break in takes much longer than the PN. By break in, I dont mean dipping in water and running, I mean actual driving in the car with the load of the car after water break in.

Even if you break in a motor, it still needs to be driven for a while (3-5 battery packs at least) to fully break it in. I had some glitching early at the Capital Challenge (stock handout was CTP 70t), as did others. Later in the races, I had no more glitches, and had more power.

I prefer the power band on the CTP/ATM 70t to the PN. I get more power in the higher RPM range, which for most of the tracks I race at is usable power. There is also less drag brake, due to the smaller comm and lighter armature.

I have had 2 out of 5 of my CTP or ATM motors that I have used glitch. Both of them no longer glitch after being used for a little while. The glitch is caused by the brush arcing, after the arcing is reduced by running the motor for a little while, the glitching has ceased. I may try silver brushes to see if they produce the same effect.

blt456
2011.03.08, 09:35 PM
I paid for the break in, but I don't really know if it was done or not.
Why would a non broke in motor make my steering glitch? I have no clue when it comes to these electric motors.

If you run a brand new motor, you will notice 2 thin lines of brush material on the comm. When a motor is broken in, those two lines wear down and becomes one thick line. This means the brush has full contact with the comm, which allows for more power. :)

bevo
2011.03.08, 09:46 PM
The ATM/CT 70t motors have a smaller comm than the PN. This means that there is more contact area between each brush and the comm. When the motor is not broken in fully, it will arc much more than a motor with a larger comm. What it also means, is that break in takes much longer than the PN. By break in, I dont mean dipping in water and running, I mean actual driving in the car with the load of the car after water break in.

Even if you break in a motor, it still needs to be driven for a while (3-5 battery packs at least) to fully break it in. I had some glitching early at the Capital Challenge (stock handout was CTP 70t), as did others. Later in the races, I had no more glitches, and had more power.

I prefer the power band on the CTP/ATM 70t to the PN. I get more power in the higher RPM range, which for most of the tracks I race at is usable power. There is also less drag brake, due to the smaller comm and lighter armature.

I have had 2 out of 5 of my CTP or ATM motors that I have used glitch. Both of them no longer glitch after being used for a little while. The glitch is caused by the brush arcing, after the arcing is reduced by running the motor for a little while, the glitching has ceased. I may try silver brushes to see if they produce the same effect.

It's kind of hard to run in the car when it just keeps jerking left and right at random times. Also when you go to turn under power, the wheels just jerk back and forth most of the time.

I'll throw it back in the car and try and run it for awhile and see if it stops doing it.

bevo
2011.03.08, 10:40 PM
I ran a few more sets of batteries through it and it stopped the glitching. It seems to get faster with each fresh set of batteries I put in it. It seems really smooth too.
What I still don't understand, is why a new motor would make the steering act like that?

Felix2010
2011.03.08, 11:20 PM
After over a year of reports of a mysterious MR03 steering glitch, by a LOT of racers and people on this forum, I have ran into this weird glitch on my 03 and it happened with a Speedy05 bushing motor. I had removed the 104 caps on the Speedy05 prior to running it on my 03 in order to center the endbell perfectly, and once I put it on the track I noticed the glitching... I installed 3 brand-new 104 caps and the glitch is still there. (The Speedy05 armature has a extra-fat comm.)

Also - With the Tx ON, and the chassis power ON, The steering glitches even when the chassis is just sitting there on a tuning stand with the wheels elevated... No throttle applied whatsoever, no arching going on.... Swap-out the motor - No more glitch. This is seriously aggravating.... Now I know what all you guys are going through out there with your 03's.:(

I'm thinking this has to have something to do with electronics on the 03... Maybe it's the new servo on the 03, with the core-less servo motor, or the new ICS settings, the servo gear-ratioor the entire 03 servo-package.... I was slightly skeptical about how bad this glitch was, for a long time... Now I'm very concerned...

blt456
2011.03.08, 11:42 PM
Hm....I never got any glitch with my ko ex-1. I'm on a 3pk now and still no glitch......definitely sounds like the motors aren't properly broken in or something else..this may sound kind of odd but at one time I started to get a slight on throttle glitch with my car.

All I did was replace the motor and battery wires. Everything soldered directly to the board, no connectors. I also resoldered the antenna wire again and my car doesn't glitch anymore. make sure the switch wires aren't touching anything else and resolder them so they are shorter.

I run modified motors now and haven't used a stock motor since March of 2010. My car never glitched with a pn70 because my break in method was good, so if your car still glitches you just need to break in the brushes more.

EMU
2011.03.09, 12:38 AM
Arcing is interference or noise resonating from the motor as it spins. When the brushes are new, not fully broken in, there is more arcing and noise coming from the motor, which seems to interfere with the MR03 servo. I havent noticed any such issues with the MR02, although I have only used one of these 70t motors in one MR02 as I mostly drive MR03's now.

doug01n
2011.03.09, 07:28 AM
I bought 25 reflex motors, and the Galpas drivers (our local track in brazil) was getting this same problems!

Somthing that solves the problem immediatly was the TRP motor aditive... 1 drop in the comm and the car was glitching free!

But it's a hell of a motor!!! More linear than the PN... It improoves regularity in all drivers, and lowered the best laps too. WOW!

Bodom
2011.10.20, 07:03 AM
Today I experienced something very strange.
My very-very-old stock motor from my MA-010 which I recently drive a lot in my MR-03 started to interfere with the electronics so bad - that when I apply throttle - the steering freaks out.. On-throttle the steering is slow, twitchy inconsistent - acts very very strange.. Off-throttle - no problems with the steering at all.
The motor has three 104 capacitors. One between the motor wires and two between each wire and the motor case. The motor began acting like this all of a sudden.
I swapped the motor with another stock motor - problems gone!
So I know the problem is with the motor.. but why-o-why?
By the way the same motor worked fine on MR-02 AM board :)