PDA

View Full Version : Need some help on upgrades and tunning


bevo
2011.03.13, 02:11 PM
I broke my Front Suspension Arm plate and was wanting to know if there is a hop up replacement part instead of the stock one.

I'm also having a little trouble with the rear end bouncing some in turns, and it's starting to dive and spin on my every once in awhile mid corner. It also has been pulling left under lots of throttle. The trim is fine, it's just on straights when it gets to about the mid range in rpms.

I've got an 03 with a 64 pitch diff
a disk damper
the long pin front end suspension.
and a pn v3 sliver motor mount.

I've been using a GTr body, but ran a mclaren today, just to see how much more steering it had.

It's only ran on RCP track.

Is there a base setup that people use when they are running on RCP that I should start out with? and what other things could add to my car to make it more predictable everywhere, under power and through turns?

I have another question I just thought of. Is there somewhere that tells what the differences in the parts are? ex. What is the difference besides the color in the silver and orange pn motor mounts. I have a silver one on one car and an orange one on the other. Everywhere just lists them as the color being the difference, but when I got the orange one, it is much different.
How is a new guy suppose to know what to buy if the stores do not list what the difference between 2 motor mounts is?

blt456
2011.03.13, 03:00 PM
If you are talking about the upper arm piece that holds the pin, I would suggest the Reflex racing upper arm mount. It comes with metal pieces in colors of silver, light blue, and gray. It works very good and you can adjust camber with a metal "key" they give.

http://www.reflexracing.net/proddetail.asp?prod=RX1159

And the link how to install

http://www.reflexracing.net/UpperARM_Install.asp

You may think that the screws will undo themselves or come loose in a crash, but they won't. You just have to tighten them down well. People hit me all the time and the two adjustable pieces never move.

The other options are the PN racing and atomic upper arm mounts, which are $11 and $13 dollars. These can only be bought in narrow or wide, and don't have adjustable camber. The reflex piece has the narrow and wide mounts integrated on the metal camber key.

color01
2011.03.13, 03:28 PM
For your rear, first of all are you SURE it's the rear end hopping? The MR03 has this delightful issue where the front or the rear can hop, and you have to take a good look before assuming anything. If it's the rear, then you probably need more damping. :) Look into using a damper oil between the disk damper plates, or stiffer springs. Concurrently, if you're having issues with the car spinning out, the rear end is probably being locked up by something inconsistent in the rear end; teflon tape in the disk damper will help smooth things out, as well as the aforementioned grease.

There is no one perfect base setup to begin with, but Kyosho 30 front tires, K20 rear tires, and medium springs front (think PN Red) and medium T-plate rear (think PN #3 or 4) are good places to start.

Unfortunately there is no database of what is stiffer than what, the product list for Mini-Z is so expansive it would be a full-time paid job to keep that list up-to-date. If you just ask though, we can answer almost anything from memory. :)

bevo
2011.03.13, 04:16 PM
If you are talking about the upper arm piece that holds the pin, I would suggest the Reflex racing upper arm mount. It comes with metal pieces in colors of silver, light blue, and gray. It works very good and you can adjust camber with a metal "key" they give.

http://www.reflexracing.net/proddetail.asp?prod=RX1159

And the link how to install

http://www.reflexracing.net/UpperARM_Install.asp

You may think that the screws will undo themselves or come loose in a crash, but they won't. You just have to tighten them down well. People hit me all the time and the two adjustable pieces never move.

The other options are the PN racing and atomic upper arm mounts, which are $11 and $13 dollars. These can only be bought in narrow or wide, and don't have adjustable camber. The reflex piece has the narrow and wide mounts integrated on the metal camber key.

It looks like to use the reflex parts, that you would have to cut the piece off of mine that broke anyway, or would I need to buy some other kind of thing that covers up the steering servo?

I wish they had a picture on the site that shows all of the pieces that come with that package, instead of just showing it already on the car.

blt456
2011.03.13, 05:10 PM
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_2375.jpg

That's exactly what you get with the link I posted.

Also, for the top cover, you just take a knife or wire cutters and snip the pin holders off. That's it, the whole idea is to make room for the upper arm. The whole process is extremely simple.

acenet416
2011.03.13, 05:19 PM
I had the same issue with the hooking to the left, I adjusted my ball diff all the way out then brought it back so when going from reverse to forward throttle the ball diff would not slip seems to have evened out the power to both wheels.

bevo
2011.03.13, 10:25 PM
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_2375.jpg

That's exactly what you get with the link I posted.

Also, for the top cover, you just take a knife or wire cutters and snip the pin holders off. That's it, the whole idea is to make room for the upper arm. The whole process is extremely simple.

Thanks, a friend has an extra set that I'm going to get off of him soon.

Is there a thread in here that has basic setup tips? Like what to change when this is happening or that is happening. just something to let me know where to start making adjustments to try and correct problems I'm having.