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Guystill
2011.04.25, 05:19 PM
Hi, so i want a faster mr03. ive already installed the kyosho x speed v motor on my both my cars. according to my tamiya awd dino both will do max 35kph with nimh 1.2 1300mah and 37kph with alkaline 1.5v. is there a motor out there that will speed things up without having to modify the FET's? To upgrade the FET, I understand that Atomicmods will do it (anyone else?) for you. does anyone know if it is worth the 160 dollars?
Thanks

Mike Keely
2011.04.25, 06:12 PM
Hi, so i want a faster mr03. ive already installed the kyosho x speed v motor on my both my cars. according to my tamiya awd dino both will do max 35kph with nimh 1.2 1300mah and 37kph with alkaline 1.5v. is there a motor out there that will speed things up without having to modify the FET's? To upgrade the FET, I understand that Atomicmods will do it (anyone else?) for you. does anyone know if it is worth the 160 dollars?
Thanks

You can easily go down to a 40 turn motor and not have to worry about the fets. Just changing the fets will make your car faster out of a turn. Send a PM to ActionB. He does so many fet jobs for many people including myself for about $40 I think.

herman
2011.04.25, 10:49 PM
ah grass happa... a fasta m03 doesen't make one betta driva...

but seriously... if you want to go faster, there are other faster motors other than the kyosho x speed that do not require a fet upgrade... do a search on atomic / pn / reflex racing motors...

if you still want more speed you can opt for a fet upgrade... i've read that action b has done a lot of them, and a lot of guys are pretty satisfied with his work...

hope this helps... :D

EMU
2011.04.26, 12:43 AM
I use a Chili in a non-fetted MR03 ;) I believe thats a 35t... I also have used the PN 33t... Fets definitely make a difference in punch, but I wouldnt pay $160 for them. You would get a little more instant power as you get on the throttle, which in turn allows you to gear up slightly, leading to a little more speed, but for the most part you gain punch with fets, not speed. I personally prefer the feel of the stock fets with higher power motors, but with slower motors (in motor restricted classes), I feel the need to have fets.

Guystill
2011.05.09, 07:39 PM
ive been looking at a few motors and found some,
Atomic 17mm New Generation T2-Plus Motor,
Atomic 17mm Stock ZF New Generation Motor,
ATOMIC MINI-Z 17mm New Generation Super Stock Motor (MO-029).
these motors i gather can run without a FETs upgrade, tho is it true i can run any motor without a FETs upgrade without melting the electronics?

EMU
2011.05.09, 09:51 PM
Almost any motor on the market can be run on the stock electronics, but with the higher power motors, you really have to be careful when selecting gearing.

You have to monitor motor temps as well as ambient temps. You should be able to touch the motor for a few seconds... if you cannot, it is too hot, and you should gear down a little.

I have only fried one ASF board, with a PN Anima II motor that is no longer on the market. I have used PN 33t, but not 32t. I have also used ATM Z2 and Chili which are 33t or 35t if I recall correctly.

The 17mm motors shouldnt have a problem, but do watch your gearing on the T2-plus a bit. When using a new motor, gear low and work your way up. Start with small pinions, feel how the motor feels, where it tops out. If you need more speed, gear up as needed but monitor your temps after a few minutes of running.

Atomic-USA
2011.05.09, 11:53 PM
I recommend MO-028 48T. This is what I run in most open classes.

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/images/medium/atomic/MO-028_m.jpg

Guystill
2011.05.23, 01:24 PM
so ive just bought the MO-028 and MO-029. i tried in vain to fit these motors in the motor mounts i have but cant get the motor to fit into the 3 racing mid and rear mounts, the front of the motor is too big, any suggestions?

v8davep
2011.05.23, 05:36 PM
I Fitted mine into a kyosho ally mid mount and had to file out the hole slightly in the motor holder as its bigger than the std motor, fits fine now.
I guess that the standard motor would be a loose fit now, but the 48T is very good so i won't be going back.

Guystill
2011.05.26, 08:18 PM
so ive installed my new motors, on a quick test on my tamyia dnyo, the MO-028 48T does a max of 34kph with nimh 1000 1.2v and the MO-029 48T does a max of 38kph with the same nimh 1000 1.2v.
as these motors have screws to attach to the motor mount i had to buy new mounts, can the screws be tightened all the way with out restricting motor movement?
The only mount ive used is a PN Racing Mini-Z MR015/MR02 RM Motor Mount. im using it for the mr03, is that why it will not fit in length on my corvette compared to the 3racing RM? any solutions?
as a matter of interest, does the pinon need to be closely meshed with the diff, ie meshed so theres no space between both sets of teeth or loosly meshed together with space between the teeth?
Thanks!

EMU
2011.05.26, 09:16 PM
You need to use an RM length t-plate with the RM mount. Fit should be the same as it is on the MR02/MR015 with the same length t-plate. The more common t-plate is the MM length, which is roughly 4mm shorter.

As far as gear mesh is concerned, you dont want it too loose or too tight. Too tight will cause binding, and slow the motor down. Too loose will cause the gears to skip, losing power and damaging the teeth on both pinion and spur. There is a paper trick, take a peice of paper, slip it between the spur and pinion when you adjust the mesh to the point that you can still remove it. This should net a good mesh after you remove the paper. You want the screws to be tightened down fully, or the motor will move and gear mesh will be lost. Be sure not to use screws that are too long, or too short (the ones that came with the mount should be perfect), too short, and you risk stripping the screwhole when tightening the mount. Too long and you can hit the armature with the screw, stopping the motor, or worse, damaging the wires on the armature.

The Tamiya Speed Checker is not a dyno, it simply checks the speed that the gearing of the motor and rollout of the wheels. The rollers in the speed checker are not weighted, so there is little resistance thus the result of using the speed checker is simply your top speed with the gearing that you are using. You may not be able to actually reach these speeds on the track, but it is a good idea of whether you would need to make a gear ratio adjustment with the given motor/wheel size you are using. It is a useful tool to compare speeds of the motors to eachother if all other variables are held constant, but there are no readings for torque (other than seeing how fast the car gets up to speed).

Hope the info helps.

Guystill
2011.05.27, 08:42 PM
Thanks, ive just bought some rm t-plates on the net so im sure to update in a couple of weeks. the paper trick seems to work. im working to become a local club member here in Lux but for the mo im just using the speed checker as a referance, anyway il keep updating on progress

Guystill
2011.06.21, 12:16 PM
so back again....ive now fitted out my mr03 with the Atomic 17mm New Generation T2-Plus Motor (no fet upgrade) with a rear mount and a rm t-plate. on my Tamiya speed checker ive maxed out at 49kph. Great! only problem is that i cannot repeat the 49kph it can only do 47kph. ive tried freshly recharged 1.2v nimh 1300mah batteries and i get a total of 47kph (hence why im suprised as with the same type of batteries it reached 49kph). ive tried alkaline 1.5v duracell bateries and hit a max speed of 43kph more of a suprise. Have i burnt out the motor as its not going faster? also the rm t-plate just fits the mr03 chassis on the last screw holes, is there a better way? also at 49kph i noticed the tires expanding and would come of the wheel, ive got some double sided tape from pn racing tho noticed also a way to glue the tires to the wheel, which is best glue or tape? the tape seems to work for now

EMU
2011.06.21, 12:31 PM
I find glue to work considerably better. Somtimes I tape the tire down, and glue the edges, which makes the tire more easily removable.

cowboysir
2011.06.21, 01:04 PM
With the speedcheaker you may not achieve the same speeds each time.

Alkaline cells do not discharge at the same rate so it's not surprising you don't get the same speeds.

Like emu said...glue is important at those speeds.

Guystill
2011.06.21, 03:12 PM
i forgot to mention one thing that ive observed, as the car accelerates the back end bounces, im not sure if its just the body, i think the tires are skidding? what causes this and how can it be solved? i dont have a shock damper for the rm (i cant find one) so the mount is using the t-plate as a damper

cowboysir
2011.06.21, 03:38 PM
At any speed the mini-z needs some sort of rear damper unit, whether it be a Disk Damper System (DDS) or a top shock system. the hopping will affect performance...it is due to the T-plate having free ability to flex and rebound without any sort of damping.

Try to look here or any number of micro e-tailers for a damper system for your rm mount.

Starsky5000
2011.07.07, 02:56 PM
i forgot to mention one thing that ive observed, as the car accelerates the back end bounces, im not sure if its just the body, i think the tires are skidding? what causes this and how can it be solved? i dont have a shock damper for the rm (i cant find one) so the mount is using the t-plate as a damper

You know your problem reminds me of my problem. You probably bought this Kyosho RM Motor Mount right?

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/RM-Aluminum-Motor-Mount-for-MR_p_4388.html

Guystill
2011.11.08, 01:26 PM
yes i did then i changed it, it didnt look right and plus the other motor mount i have were better they stopped the bouncing without the damper