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outlaw-star
2011.07.03, 05:56 AM
Any ideas on how to tune using this, I understand have to use the pivot point, but not sure which positions heights will give the differing results?

Thanks

cowboysir
2011.07.03, 10:42 AM
I wouldn't view it as "height" so much as the different threaded hole can change the flex point (and therefore flex characteristic) of the t-plate. By changing the flex point (and roll flex) it can fine tune the feel of the rear end.

Im unclear of what the different positions would do...other more experienced racers would have to share.

color01
2011.07.03, 04:04 PM
The pivot point location alters the usable length of the T-plate in compression only, so you can change the up-down stiffness, without altering the roll (side-to-side) stiffness. It's a nice tuning tool if you don't want to screw around with a top shock. I myself don't use the grub screw pivot anymore since I like keeping the entire T-plate length unrestricted (= more traction, less responsive) but it is still there as an option.

outlaw-star
2011.07.03, 04:50 PM
Thanks guys, so if u look at the 3 holes, the position nearest the mount would give the stiffest setting? I could then remove the top shock. So with respect to the t-plate should I use a softer plate pn-2 then adjust the stiffness?

Does it matter what t plate I use?

color01
2011.07.03, 05:02 PM
If you decide to use the pivot plate holes, then you can control the bump stiffness pretty well using the grub screw location (closer to motor = stiffer, you're right). The T-plate can then be responsible for only the roll stiffness.

So if you like the roll stiffness you have now (steady-state cornering is good, initial turn-in is good) but you want to change the car's on-power/off-power dynamics, then you should keep the current T-plate and try out the different grub screw locations. If you like the bump stiffness you have now but roll is too stiff (too much turn-in, traction rolling, etc.) then you might want to go to a softer T-plate, and use the grub screw to reset the bump stiffness back to how you liked it. If you don't like your current bump or roll stiffness, well screw that, lol, change T-plates.

That's the general philosophy of how to play with the T-plate mount, although it is simpler and lighter than a tri-shock setup, it's a little bit less refined and trickier to get right. Be sure to use threadlock on the grub screw! You don't want the car's characteristics changing mid-run.

outlaw-star
2011.07.04, 01:44 AM
Thanks for the clear instructions, one last question what's the threadlock? Do u mean turn the grub screw in as much as possible ?

EMU
2011.07.04, 07:44 AM
Threadlock is like glue for metal to metal screw/nut applications (it is NOT a glue, but works similar). It will hold the screw/nut in place so it does not vibrate loose, and change/loosen mid run. I cant tell you how many races I have DNF'd due to not using threadlock in the early days. You can end up losing touch with the setup, and try making all sorts of adjustments, when it was just because a screw backed out just enough to feel different...

The grub screw makes a noticeable change in handling, I suggest trying all three positions (try to keep the grub screw at the same height in each position), and note how it changes the feel of the car, and if you can, the laptime that you get.

I found it a useful tool for longer t-plates (RM t-plates (about 4mm longer than MM plate) on 98mm wheelbase with a 94mm mount, or 102mm wheelbase on 98mm mount). It essentially changes where the rear suspension pivots.

outlaw-star
2011.07.04, 07:47 AM
Thanks, with threadlock I assume once used I will not be able to change position, so I need to be a 100% get it setup correctly first.

Mike Keely
2011.07.04, 09:33 AM
No, get the blue threadlock because it is removable. The red threadlock is perminant. Locktite is the same thing but just make sure it is the blue liquid. You only need a small dab in one side of the screw, no need to put it all the way around the screw.

outlaw-star
2011.07.04, 09:41 AM
Perfect thanks guys :)