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spar9368
2011.07.03, 12:02 PM
Hi Guys,


I just bought a second hand Mini-Z to start racing in my local track. I race in Korea and the competition level is pretty high, I believe. But due to the language barrier, I believe they don't have much information to share, so I guess I would like to learn something quickly to spread some new techs from Mini-Zracer.com.


I do have over 15yrs of racing experiences and I own most of the RC tools and gears with me, and also have a few electric racing experiences, such as M18 pro, 1/12th scale etc etc.



Please have a look at this photo befor you answer my questions.






I am basically looking for a high-end upgrades. Like most of my friends at my local track, they have nice and shiny alloy parts, some questioned whether it works or not. I don't really care about the budget or 'value for money' thing, but I would like to know what can improve the performance of the car. I am about to purchase another brand new mr-03 chassis and have this old one for my son, but we want something like top of the range ones, and we will have this for a serious racing. Am willing to spend $1k +


My local track is carpet track (see the picture for more detail), and few other tracks are also carpet indoor track. It has timing equipments and everything, so it's pretty good place to start.




I have already ordered 4562 FETs to install, and I have MR-03W (well, that's what it says on the top deck of my mini-z). Also KO-module for 4pk conversion is coming as well as Atomic MO-030 New Generation 17mm T2-Plus Motor is coming as well. As you can see from the pic, I already have a few optional parts, but I do want more upgrades.

What I feel from the car is that I want little bit more grip (car was sliding out from the sweeper), and also higher steering response. I am looking at a few upgrades for front and motor mount, as well as li-fe conversion and shock upgrade.








Questions


1. I have a plastic oil shock, but I saw guys running alloy shocks and it looks way better. Few argued that this plastic yellow one works better, but I do have bad experiences with plastic shocks. Will it be better move to upgrade this to alloy ones? If so, what is the part number? I guess I just need the shocks, not the whole suspension system, as I already have those fancy system.


2. I want li-fe conversion. Looking to purchase at least 3 sets of packs and weights, but don't know which option I have. I know AtomicMods.com also sells lipo batteries for this car, but not sure the board can handle that voltage. Let me know what options do I have and I'll go from there. Also, I want an alloy battery heat-sink to use it with, so please consider that in your answer.


3. Looking for the whole front upgrades, but I also have what looks like green knuckle, which I don't really trust. It is 2deg one, but overall I'm not sure whether I can trust it. Also, can I use this Kyosho Mini z MR-03N Indy visual Oil Damper R246-1342? Will it do any good?


4. Motor mount. I want something I can use it with "Atomic MO-030 New Generation 17mm T2-Plus Motor". I am thinking to stick to this type of motor (after the FET mods), but let me know if there's any better option. I have KM racing one, but not sure how good this one is, and also this one I cannot trust. It slightly moves from time to time and gear mesh gets completely mess. So I prefer something alloy, wheelbase adjustable, works with the above motor and something I can trust. I am currently running with 8T pinion with 42~45T spur (eyes about to pop out to count the teeth). I also have carbon T plate, but I'm willing to purchase all different thickness to have different roll. Any suggestion will do.



5. Tyres. I'm not sure which one to start but I guess most of my local friends also have no idea. Most of them runs something like what I have on the pics, and definitely not slick type, but I guess I need to try a few. Also any inputs will be appreciated.



6. Chassis. I am looking for SP version (the grey one), which I believe it gives a bit more stiffness. Also I am looking for the reinforcement carbon plate. Wonder whether this would be a good move.


7. Gyro and stuff. Not sure whether it will do any good, but might be helpful. Never had any kinds of Gyro, so I guess I can try, but this might not be a pro racing.


8. Bodies. There's no regulation in Mini racing in my local track, so I guess I like to use le-mans type bodies. A few good ones in the market, but I don't know which one to choose. Body chart is just in alien language to me, so any good recommendation would be greatly appreciated. Also, my body is just keep coming off with a tiny hit, so wonder any other ways to mount the body.


9. Steering linkage. Few guys at my track don't use alloy one for some reason, but I would love to get rid of this huge slops in the front and make it decent suspension.


10. I am planning to purchase another mini-z chassis and I want something like JSCC cup edition or something like that. Let me know whether that would be a good move.





Other than these questions, I still have a lot of things to consider and ask. Any inputs would be greatly appreciated. My current car is having little bit of difficulties in keep it going straight, and sometimes it leans to the other side, so I can't race (I can drive, but slows me down quite a lot). Other than that, thanks in advance and let me know if you have anything to add.


** Also, if there's any existing thread that covers most of those questions, please let me know **




Thanks


Steven

EMU
2011.07.03, 01:26 PM
Answers are in yellow
Questions


1. I have a plastic oil shock, but I saw guys running alloy shocks and it looks way better. Few argued that this plastic yellow one works better, but I do have bad experiences with plastic shocks. Will it be better move to upgrade this to alloy ones? If so, what is the part number? I guess I just need the shocks, not the whole suspension system, as I already have those fancy system.
The yellow plastic oil shock is the best oil shock on the market for the mini-z. The shaft diameter is smaller, which leads to less binding/and displaces less fluid than a larger shaft diameter. It also leaks considerably less than the alloy shocks.

2. I want li-fe conversion. Looking to purchase at least 3 sets of packs and weights, but don't know which option I have. I know AtomicMods.com also sells lipo batteries for this car, but not sure the board can handle that voltage. Let me know what options do I have and I'll go from there. Also, I want an alloy battery heat-sink to use it with, so please consider that in your answer.
In general, check the R246 batteries/weights/alloy heatsink clips. They should all go together well. If you go with LiFe, you may want a slower motor to compensate the difference in voltage between NiMh and LiFe

3. Looking for the whole front upgrades, but I also have what looks like green knuckle, which I don't really trust. It is 2deg one, but overall I'm not sure whether I can trust it. Also, can I use this Kyosho Mini z MR-03N Indy visual Oil Damper R246-1342? Will it do any good?
The green 2deg knuckle should be 3Racing. Which is good quality at a good price. I think 2deg is a little much for the MR03, unless the track is very large. As for a complete front end, I would recommend the Reflex Racing reverse kingpin front end personally. I use it on almost all of my MR03's...

4. Motor mount. I want something I can use it with "Atomic MO-030 New Generation 17mm T2-Plus Motor". I am thinking to stick to this type of motor (after the FET mods), but let me know if there's any better option. I have KM racing one, but not sure how good this one is, and also this one I cannot trust. It slightly moves from time to time and gear mesh gets completely mess. So I prefer something alloy, wheelbase adjustable, works with the above motor and something I can trust. I am currently running with 8T pinion with 42~45T spur (eyes about to pop out to count the teeth). I also have carbon T plate, but I'm willing to purchase all different thickness to have different roll. Any suggestion will do.
I feel that the Reflex Racing AWB mount has the most versatility for a solid motormount on the market. It will work with the motor you mentioned, and gives you the ability to adjust from 94mm to 102mm in 2mm increments if you want to try slightly different wheelbases.

5. Tyres. I'm not sure which one to start but I guess most of my local friends also have no idea. Most of them runs something like what I have on the pics, and definitely not slick type, but I guess I need to try a few. Also any inputs will be appreciated.
Try the tires that others race at your track, we really cannot give much advice, as we dont know the type of surface and its grip characteristic.

6. Chassis. I am looking for SP version (the grey one), which I believe it gives a bit more stiffness. Also I am looking for the reinforcement carbon plate. Wonder whether this would be a good move.

7. Gyro and stuff. Not sure whether it will do any good, but might be helpful. Never had any kinds of Gyro, so I guess I can try, but this might not be a pro racing.

8. Bodies. There's no regulation in Mini racing in my local track, so I guess I like to use le-mans type bodies. A few good ones in the market, but I don't know which one to choose. Body chart is just in alien language to me, so any good recommendation would be greatly appreciated. Also, my body is just keep coming off with a tiny hit, so wonder any other ways to mount the body.
By Le-Mans type bodies, do you mean the GT or do you mean the larger low/wide bodies like Porsche 962, Mazda 787B, Sauber C9? The Sauber is my favorite LM body to use for durability and handling feel. LM means Low Mount, and is at a 102mm wheelbase, which works best on larger layouts.

9. Steering linkage. Few guys at my track don't use alloy one for some reason, but I would love to get rid of this huge slops in the front and make it decent suspension.
I only use the stock plastic tie-rod, no slop in my steering

10. I am planning to purchase another mini-z chassis and I want something like JSCC cup edition or something like that. Let me know whether that would be a good move.
JSCC edition has many hop up parts, so it is a good deal, as long as you use those hop up parts. If you remove them and change to different parts, it may not be worth the additional cost.

spar9368
2011.07.03, 03:10 PM
Answers are in yellow

Thanks heaps very helpful. I still have a few more questions.


Question 1 is solved. I'll stick to the yellow shock.



Question 2. I would love to go for LiFe and I'll have those heatsink clip and weights. If so, you suggested a slower motor, which it should be as competitive as other racers using mod motors. Which motor would you recommend and what gear ratio would be useful? As said, most of my local friends also don't have much information in general, so it is hard to get a decent info. Further, this track is relatively new and only been around 2 months now. Track pics and closed up photos are also included, so please have a look and let me know what do you think.

If you want to know little bit more of my local track, please visit http://www.mini-z.co.kr

That website would show you the track, facilities, approximate size and type of surfaces. Please refer that page before answer my questions. Tyre selection would be narrowed down to a few question.



Question 4 and 5. Motor mount is easy, but is that 94mm the one we should go for? my track is relatively small, so I guess i would go for shorter wheelbase. I would also think more about tyres. Any more suggestions?


Question 6 and 7 ???


Question 8.

Anything that can grip and have fast cornering. Say 1/8 nitro onroad or 1/12 style. But it should fit and should not scrapping the surface. Also should nicely fit with the chassis.


Question 9 and 10. Thanks I'll keep that in mind.




Any other inputs would be highly appreciated.

cowboysir
2011.07.03, 03:49 PM
Trying to navigate the Korean site was a bit difficult but I did notice they have a typical variety of kyosho tires. That suggests to me they use those for racing which is a very good option for you. Start with 20 degree rears and 30 degree fronts and work from there for grip feel. There are plenty of tire options out there for carpet (including foams if that floats your boat) so e-tailors like here, kenon and reflex racing might be sources for purchasing a variety of carpet specific tires.

Don't bother with gyros.

You may want to check out some threads on bodyshell wheelbase and track type. My view (which works for me and not others) is I use a 94mm shell dremelled to fit 96mm with low overhangs both front and rear to get as little rotation effect from the body during corners. Most of my courses are turny with only a couple medium straights...

Hope I've helped a bit.

spar9368
2011.07.03, 04:07 PM
Trying to navigate the Korean site was a bit difficult but I did notice they have a typical variety of kyosho tires. That suggests to me they use those for racing which is a very good option for you. Start with 20 degree rears and 30 degree fronts and work from there for grip feel. There are plenty of tire options out there for carpet (including foams if that floats your boat) so e-tailors like here, kenon and reflex racing might be sources for purchasing a variety of carpet specific tires.

Don't bother with gyros.

You may want to check out some threads on bodyshell wheelbase and track type. My view (which works for me and not others) is I use a 94mm shell dremelled to fit 96mm with low overhangs both front and rear to get as little rotation effect from the body during corners. Most of my courses are turny with only a couple medium straights...

Hope I've helped a bit.



Thanks for the help! It really must have been a hassle to go through korean webpage, and I really appreciate your input.

We normally use radial style tyres, and probably they already have figured out what compounds to use. I believe what you have suggested would work the best, so I will go from there. Also thank for the gyro info.


About the body, I really liked this body.

AR-210 Atomic VDS II Body
http://www.reflexracing.net/proddetail.asp?prod=AR-210


I want to use this body, as a few others running this body. I don't know how to make my chassis to fit this body (have no info on wheelbase and offset), so if you know anything about this body, please let me know what should I look for. (wheelbase and tyre offset and width.)


Thanks in advance!

Steven

EMU
2011.07.03, 04:52 PM
The VDS I and II are 98mm wheelbase, and use +3N/+3W wheels on a MR03W. I personally use 0N front, and 1W rear under it when I use it. The VDSII is more agile than the VDS I and has more front downforce with less mass. You may also want to look into the PN Pan body, I feel that it is faster, just be sure to use the Carbon front bumper if you get it.

As far as motor is concerned for LiFe, a 70t with bearings would be ideal. In general, a mile modified or stock class motor would be good. The T2 would be too high RPM to gear properly. The 48t Round Can would be a better option, but have loads of power on LiFe.

color01
2011.07.03, 04:55 PM
The Atomic VDSII is compatible with your MR-03. Wheelbase is 98mm, offsets are +3 narrow (8.5mm) up front and +3 wide (11mm) in back. If I remember correctly the body comes with dish wheels in the right offset already so you're already set. For a small track you would probably want to dremel the wheel wells and drop the wheelbase to 94mm, however since the body produces a ton of downforce you might not need to do so.

Kyosho 30/20 "racing" radials (front/rear) generally work fine on the carpet, until somebody shows up with silicone tires and greases up the track for everyone else. If you're able to, ask to see the local guys' cars so you can at least check what tires they're using. Kyosho "racing" radials have a very distinctive tread pattern, looks like this:

http://www.minirc.com/image/cache/data/products/k-mzw38-20-500x500.jpg
(Image blatantly stolen from MiniRC.com)

If none of the local guys are using this tire, then chances are they're using silicone, at which point it's GAME ON, lol. PN and Atomic make silicone tires specific for carpet use, and 3racing makes a pair that surprisingly works on the MR-03 front end.



LiFe and a 70t motor are quite a potent combination, producing a lot of punch and a decent top speed for Mod racing. For a small track I would be worried that it might actually be too fast, so I would suggest taking the armature from that motor, and placing it into a ball-bearing, neodymium-magnet motor can. You'll lose a little speed, get a lot of torque, and a lot of magnetic drag brake as well so you can slow down for those tight corners.

spar9368
2011.07.04, 02:58 AM
The VDS I and II are 98mm wheelbase, and use +3N/+3W wheels on a MR03W. I personally use 0N front, and 1W rear under it when I use it. The VDSII is more agile than the VDS I and has more front downforce with less mass. You may also want to look into the PN Pan body, I feel that it is faster, just be sure to use the Carbon front bumper if you get it.

As far as motor is concerned for LiFe, a 70t with bearings would be ideal. In general, a mile modified or stock class motor would be good. The T2 would be too high RPM to gear properly. The 48t Round Can would be a better option, but have loads of power on LiFe.

The Atomic VDSII is compatible with your MR-03. Wheelbase is 98mm, offsets are +3 narrow (8.5mm) up front and +3 wide (11mm) in back. If I remember correctly the body comes with dish wheels in the right offset already so you're already set. For a small track you would probably want to dremel the wheel wells and drop the wheelbase to 94mm, however since the body produces a ton of downforce you might not need to do so.

Kyosho 30/20 "racing" radials (front/rear) generally work fine on the carpet, until somebody shows up with silicone tires and greases up the track for everyone else. If you're able to, ask to see the local guys' cars so you can at least check what tires they're using. Kyosho "racing" radials have a very distinctive tread pattern, looks like this:

http://www.minirc.com/image/cache/data/products/k-mzw38-20-500x500.jpg
(Image blatantly stolen from MiniRC.com)

If none of the local guys are using this tire, then chances are they're using silicone, at which point it's GAME ON, lol. PN and Atomic make silicone tires specific for carpet use, and 3racing makes a pair that surprisingly works on the MR-03 front end.



LiFe and a 70t motor are quite a potent combination, producing a lot of punch and a decent top speed for Mod racing. For a small track I would be worried that it might actually be too fast, so I would suggest taking the armature from that motor, and placing it into a ball-bearing, neodymium-magnet motor can. You'll lose a little speed, get a lot of torque, and a lot of magnetic drag brake as well so you can slow down for those tight corners.





Thanks for the very helpful information I really appreciate your advices. I believe that we all running very similar tyre at this track (including myself with the one came with my mini-z), so I guess I'll try and run that. I'll also keep that silicone and oil tyres in mind.


Couple more questions. Will I still need a carbon bumper or any other kinds of bumpers for Atomic VDS 2? If so, which one should I get? I will also get what EMU has suggested, so I would get a bumper anyway. But it seems like every different body requires different bumper, so it's harder for me to find the correct one from the net.


Also, people have suggested 70T motor is way to go. I would use li-fe battery, as it would be faster and easier to manage in general. Can anyone please give me the model number or any suggestion for the motor I should use?



Also, I have a very important question. My car is having difficulty in keep going straight. It just wanders or twitch to other sides very often with harsh throttle work. In other words, car becomes quite unpredictable. I check the body all the time and now tapes around the body before each run. I can drive it slowly with moderate or mild throttle control, but then I can't keep racing. I know 2wd cars do that pretty often, but most of my friends' cars are more than capable of shooting on the straight and have fast cornering.




Thanks in advance.

z3zinho
2011.07.04, 06:21 AM
On tires, I would suggest you give the atomic tires a go. They have a high silicon content and are designed specifically for carpet racing.

For rear tires I would go with the Atomic AR05 radials. What i do is tape the tires to the rim with double sided tape, then with CA glue, just glue the outside/inside of the tyre. then I get a really sharp hobby knife, and cut horizontally on the grooves. I will try and get a pic of what we do to our tires for carpet racing. ;)

Front tires i usually like to cary with me 20º/30º atomic slick tires. But you might try their AW groove. It's just a matter of personal preference and what works better at your track.

In such a short track, traction rolling probably wont be a problem, so just try and get as much rear grip as you can, then tune the front to keep up and actually get the car turning.

cowboysir
2011.07.04, 11:37 AM
I'd like to investigate something for me:

When your car is not powered (no batteries) can you ever so lightly check for play in your front end? I don't want you to hear any servo movement...just attempt to move the wheels back and forth without any servo transit.

I've had situations with used cars I've bought where one of two things occured:

1. The pin holding the servo arm and saver( which transmits movement to the tie rod) had worn down or shifted so that one end had free play...it allowed an enormous amount of unassisted wheel play/travel and therefore made the car wander quite a bit

2. I've also had worn teeth on the servo gears which made the servo act inconsistent and feel sticky and inhibit centering

If you have lots of wheelplay investigate number 1 and if there is a little play check #2...

Good luck.

unearthed name
2011.07.04, 12:37 PM
Also, I have a very important question. My car is having difficulty in keep going straight. It just wanders or twitch to other sides very often with harsh throttle work. In other words, car becomes quite unpredictable. I check the body all the time and now tapes around the body before each run. I can drive it slowly with moderate or mild throttle control, but then I can't keep racing. I know 2wd cars do that pretty often, but most of my friends' cars are more than capable of shooting on the straight and have fast cornering.




Thanks in advance.

does the car twitch when you throttle up after a turn? if yes, you might want to loosen your diff a bit. the other thing is to check your front end because the front end might be sloppy due to it being 2nd hand.

spar9368
2011.07.04, 01:14 PM
On tires, I would suggest you give the atomic tires a go. They have a high silicon content and are designed specifically for carpet racing.

For rear tires I would go with the Atomic AR05 radials. What i do is tape the tires to the rim with double sided tape, then with CA glue, just glue the outside/inside of the tyre. then I get a really sharp hobby knife, and cut horizontally on the grooves. I will try and get a pic of what we do to our tires for carpet racing. ;)

Front tires i usually like to cary with me 20º/30º atomic slick tires. But you might try their AW groove. It's just a matter of personal preference and what works better at your track.

In such a short track, traction rolling probably wont be a problem, so just try and get as much rear grip as you can, then tune the front to keep up and actually get the car turning.

Thanks for the help with tyres I'll definitely try them too.


I'd like to investigate something for me:

When your car is not powered (no batteries) can you ever so lightly check for play in your front end? I don't want you to hear any servo movement...just attempt to move the wheels back and forth without any servo transit.

I've had situations with used cars I've bought where one of two things occured:

1. The pin holding the servo arm and saver( which transmits movement to the tie rod) had worn down or shifted so that one end had free play...it allowed an enormous amount of unassisted wheel play/travel and therefore made the car wander quite a bit

2. I've also had worn teeth on the servo gears which made the servo act inconsistent and feel sticky and inhibit centering

If you have lots of wheelplay investigate number 1 and if there is a little play check #2...

Good luck.



I think you spot on. There were enormous amount of play on the front, both in left and right and front and back. Being it second hand, there were quite a lot of play. Also, what I believe is that front ride height was a bit low and often scraping the ground. It didn't make any noise or sound because it was carpet track and the transponder was just scraping. I'll adjust ride height to fix that, but it's only a guess. Confident one though.


For this reason, I would like to replace those front suspension and everything into an optional parts. I don't really like alloy parts for the suspension in typical RC cars, but this case I might prefer, cause it would at least give me an accurate movement and remove the slop. Besides, the car is tiny and the body takes most of the impacts from any big hits, so I guess I might get alloy parts for front.


Any suggestions? I know there's one from Reflex Racing, but don't know which one to get.


does the car twitch when you throttle up after a turn? if yes, you might want to loosen your diff a bit. the other thing is to check your front end because the front end might be sloppy due to it being 2nd hand.

Thanks for the tip I checked the diff, but diff was fine. Being able to race 1/12 for a long time since 1990, I'm pretty sure I would have noticed if something like diff fails. :D

cowboysir
2011.07.04, 05:01 PM
I have a couple differe front ends and since I havent used my PN A-arm setup yet i can tell you how much i like my RR long kingpin setup:

I find the front end that is based around Reflex racing parts to be very excellent quality and gives my smooth consistent travel. Here are a couple setups from relfex i'd consider for you since you have experience in 12th scale 2wd racing:

http://www.reflexracing.net/proddetail.asp?prod=RX1176

This would give you everything to dial camber, caster and give you a low profile suspension action similar to what ive seen on tamiya's F104.

The setup which was designed first (which I use and am very pleased with) combines the following parts:

http://www.reflexracing.net/proddetail.asp?prod=RX1147
http://www.reflexracing.net/proddetail.asp?prod=RX1146
http://www.reflexracing.net/proddetail.asp?prod=RX1160

By using these items and setting the springs like in the photo in the last item you get a very consistent and smooth suspension travel.

Finally, i have yet to try it but I've been hearing good things about PN Racing's dual A-Arm suspension:

http://www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-MR03-Double-A-Arm-Front-Suspension-Silver_p_43988.html

Ive installed this on my other MR03 and will be able to test it in the coming weeks. My initial opinion is its a bit of a POS to assemble and dial out the slop but once its built properly I feel it could be a very solid suspension action.

spar9368
2011.07.04, 08:27 PM
I have a couple differe front ends and since I havent used my PN A-arm setup yet i can tell you how much i like my RR long kingpin setup:

I find the front end that is based around Reflex racing parts to be very excellent quality and gives my smooth consistent travel. Here are a couple setups from relfex i'd consider for you since you have experience in 12th scale 2wd racing:

http://www.reflexracing.net/proddetail.asp?prod=RX1176

This would give you everything to dial camber, caster and give you a low profile suspension action similar to what ive seen on tamiya's F104.

The setup which was designed first (which I use and am very pleased with) combines the following parts:

http://www.reflexracing.net/proddetail.asp?prod=RX1147
http://www.reflexracing.net/proddetail.asp?prod=RX1146
http://www.reflexracing.net/proddetail.asp?prod=RX1160

By using these items and setting the springs like in the photo in the last item you get a very consistent and smooth suspension travel.

Finally, i have yet to try it but I've been hearing good things about PN Racing's dual A-Arm suspension:

http://www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-MR03-Double-A-Arm-Front-Suspension-Silver_p_43988.html

Ive installed this on my other MR03 and will be able to test it in the coming weeks. My initial opinion is its a bit of a POS to assemble and dial out the slop but once its built properly I feel it could be a very solid suspension action.


Thanks for the input I really appreciate your help with clear link and explanation.

Just a thought. Do you guys rub a bit of silicone oil on the kingpin to have a little bit of oil-damping action? Those systems are very similar to the ones on 12th scale and F104 style, and yes me and my mates often put a bit of oil on 12th scale to have a bit of damping action. Anyway I will try this once I get those parts in my hand, and other than that, I'll keep digging for more info :D

Thank you all and please keep posting if you have anything to add.

unearthed name
2011.07.04, 08:34 PM
[B]

Thanks for the tip I checked the diff, but diff was fine. Being able to race 1/12 for a long time since 1990, I'm pretty sure I would have noticed if something like diff fails. :D


It's not about the diff failing, it's about how the diff may be tightened too hard that your rear end will spin because the rear tire can't compensate each other. If you think your diff setting is correct, then the problem is with the tire.

cowboysir
2011.07.04, 09:33 PM
.

Just a thought. Do you guys rub a bit of silicone oil on the kingpin to have a little bit of oil-damping action? Those systems are very similar to the ones on 12th scale and F104 style, and yes me and my mates often put a bit of oil on 12th scale to have a bit of damping action. Anyway I will try this once I get those parts in my hand, and other than that, I'll keep digging for more info :D



Yes.

I vary between certain types of disk damper grease. I find a super light layer gives me the action Im looking for.

DaveyG (a member here) has some good stuff called RubyLube. Check it out...

color01
2011.07.05, 12:11 AM
Thanks for the input I really appreciate your help with clear link and explanation.

Just a thought. Do you guys rub a bit of silicone oil on the kingpin to have a little bit of oil-damping action? Those systems are very similar to the ones on 12th scale and F104 style, and yes me and my mates often put a bit of oil on 12th scale to have a bit of damping action. Anyway I will try this once I get those parts in my hand, and other than that, I'll keep digging for more info :D

Thank you all and please keep posting if you have anything to add.

Some people do -- I typically spring the MR03 so soft though that the slight friction from the kingpin sliding through the ball is enough damping for me. I use fluorine oil on the kingpin strictly for lubrication. Mini-Z are small, quick and light, I would not need damping oil in front unless the track surface is Super Sticky.

spar9368
2011.07.05, 07:33 AM
It's not about the diff failing, it's about how the diff may be tightened too hard that your rear end will spin because the rear tire can't compensate each other. If you think your diff setting is correct, then the problem is with the tire.

Yes I mean that one. I would have instantly notice if it was due to the wrong diff tightness. Thanks anyway

spar9368
2011.07.06, 03:17 AM
Yes.

I vary between certain types of disk damper grease. I find a super light layer gives me the action Im looking for.

DaveyG (a member here) has some good stuff called RubyLube. Check it out...

Some people do -- I typically spring the MR03 so soft though that the slight friction from the kingpin sliding through the ball is enough damping for me. I use fluorine oil on the kingpin strictly for lubrication. Mini-Z are small, quick and light, I would not need damping oil in front unless the track surface is Super Sticky.


Thanks I'll check out what I can use and I'll post more questions as soon as my stuff arrives. Ordered a few things from reflex racing and ebay to fit on my mr-03

RC.DNA
2011.08.16, 11:24 AM
Thanks heaps very helpful. I still have a few more questions.


Question 1 is solved. I'll stick to the yellow shock.



Question 2. I would love to go for LiFe and I'll have those heatsink clip and weights. If so, you suggested a slower motor, which it should be as competitive as other racers using mod motors. Which motor would you recommend and what gear ratio would be useful? As said, most of my local friends also don't have much information in general, so it is hard to get a decent info. Further, this track is relatively new and only been around 2 months now. Track pics and closed up photos are also included, so please have a look and let me know what do you think.

If you want to know little bit more of my local track, please visit http://www.mini-z.co.kr

That website would show you the track, facilities, approximate size and type of surfaces. Please refer that page before answer my questions. Tyre selection would be narrowed down to a few question.



Question 4 and 5. Motor mount is easy, but is that 94mm the one we should go for? my track is relatively small, so I guess i would go for shorter wheelbase. I would also think more about tyres. Any more suggestions?


Question 6 and 7 ???


Question 8.

Anything that can grip and have fast cornering. Say 1/8 nitro onroad or 1/12 style. But it should fit and should not scrapping the surface. Also should nicely fit with the chassis.


Question 9 and 10. Thanks I'll keep that in mind.




Any other inputs would be highly appreciated.


Hi spar9368,

I'm not sure how's your quest so far on your car tuning and racing. I just notice something interesting. I reckon the track you're racing in Korea uses the official carpet material from Kyosho. As you can see in my attachment, I used to race my dNano cars in the official dNaNo track in Hong Kong where they used the same carpet.
In my experience, the carpet is great for dNano but not for Mini-z as it's too slippery unless the carpet has been heavily raced with a lot of silicone residues. Otherwise, I could only race stock motor but never with fast motor unless foam tires are used.
I'm very interested to know what sort of tires combination and motor do you use to race happily in the track.

BTW, you can also see my MR03 with VDS II body in the attached. It's very stable and fast.
I now race in HK in a carpet track with different carpet materials (not the Kyosho official one) and it's covered by a lot of silicone residue. Foam tires fly! Cars with rubber tires can never race against me even I use a slower motor.

herman
2011.08.17, 06:25 AM
greetings steven and welcome to the forums...

looks like most of your questions have been answered by no less than top drivers emu and color01... i've had nothing but high regard for these two (even though i haven't gotten the chance to actually meet them)... and apart from enjoying reading their replies, it always 'educates' me about certain things pertaining to set-ups...

it also looks like that you are quite serious in this hobby... 1k seems like a lot and it is quite wise asking around before spending it on a lot of stuff (stuff that will actually work)... looks like you are asking the right questions from the beginning...

although i haven't tried life batts... i've seen a video of them on a track... coincidentally the track is in korea too it's called underground circuit... click here to see video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0mRYOK_qYg&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL)

and one thing for sure is... that they look pretty fast... :D
so i hope you enjoy them...

one important aspect that is most oftentimes overlooked are the tires... but with your 15years of racing experience, i'm pretty sure that you know this already...
go see what works for the track that you race on...

from the pics you posted, it looks like the carpet surface is quite similar to the one i've tried in japan and hong kong but i may be wrong (i didn't know that kyosho has an official carpet, and if the one at your track is indeed one)... ask around and see what works... if there are no restrictions, you might want to try out foam tires...

or try tires that are carpet specific like what the other guys said...

apart from that, if you have any other questions just post, and i'm sure that there will be many, that will be more than happy to give you a reply... :D

herman
2011.08.17, 06:29 AM
As you can see in my attachment, I used to race my dNano cars in the official dNaNo track in Hong Kong

hey rc.dna... i heard that the kyosho dnano track in h.k. closed down, where did they relocate?

RC.DNA
2011.08.17, 02:39 PM
hey rc.dna... i heard that the kyosho dnano track in h.k. closed down, where did they relocate?

As mentioned in another post, dnano HK track has closed down. It first opened at Kwong Wah Street. It was relocated to another location (actually quite near to CT) about a year ago. But it closed down about 2 months ago.

As far as I know, the carpet used there was supplied by Kyosho Japan directly, which is y i called it “official”.

herman
2011.09.03, 08:40 PM
wondering if there is an update from spar as to what he did to his ride…