View Full Version : 94MM MR03 Rear Suspension

2011.07.11, 03:48 AM

Went to 94MM this weekend, felt pretty good, currently running a reflexracing rear motor mount and damper plate system, some questions on this:

1) Is it worth getting the tri shock setup?
2) Which is the best Tri-shock setup? The reflex racing looks good, but you have to make some changes to this, as per their instructions.

I all ready have the Kyosho oil filled stop shock.


2011.07.13, 04:32 PM
It's only worth getting a tri-shock if you know what to do with it (to a very fine level of detail). Most current T-plate/disk damper setups are fairly well-rounded and suitable for a wide range of drivers -- as you noted, it "felt pretty good". If you know how to tune a tri-shock, you can turn "pretty good" into "F@#!in' awesome!" by catering the bump stiffness, roll stiffness, progressiveness and bump and roll damping to exactly the way you want.

I wouldn't say there's a "best" tri-shock setup, the Reflex is lighter and narrower, but the PN is smoother and lower, and holds more fluid so it requires less maintenance. In either case, there are bodies that the system will fit under and there are bodies that it just won't. I chose the PN system for the build quality (less work on my end), haven't regretted anything except cutting up my lowered Mosler body. :o

2011.08.04, 09:07 AM

Thanks for this, I wanted to get away from damper plate as I am always cleaning it :) I expect I will have to with the tri-shock, but expect it to be easier:)

So I went with the RR, looking at below instructions, I only need to follow below guidlines if I am using a pan car body?


I am running a Ferrai 360GTC so I do not believe I will have clearance issue.

2011.08.04, 11:19 PM
if you dont want to cut the balls for the shocks you will need some longer screws

so the nuts can tread on the ones in the kit need you to trim down the collars on the balls.

it was very easy to do.. just take your time with a rotary tool..

2011.08.17, 05:15 AM
so all fitted, I cut the collars in the end, I think RR should put in some spare collars with the pack, to cater for my fat fingers :). Raced on HFAY last night managed to get 77, car handled really well. Too a bit of time to adjust but was worth it.

With respect to adjustment I only made sure it centred correctly, I know there are more tuning options with this, was wondering if there is a guide etc?


2011.08.17, 04:17 PM
In general, I use a relatively stiff rear end, which gives me a little less body roll entering the corners and I rotate the car on brake or as I get onto power at the apex. If I want a little more entrance steering without changing tires or springs, I reduce the preload slightly on the side shocks. This will allow a little more body roll and the car will roll a little more entering the corners. However, this will also reduce the steering a little on the exit and can cause the inside front wheel to lift as you get on power if the springs are too loose. A little trial and error is required to find what works best for you.

In general, it is important to make sure that the rear end returns to center when the car is loaded, not when you are moving it back and forth off the track. set the car down, and lift the rear end watching which tire lifts first. If the right side lifts before the left, tighten the right side or loosen the left a little and test again. This is important and will do the best to reduce tweak when the car is driven.

2011.08.18, 03:17 AM
Thanks a lot EMU :)