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Bodom
2011.09.25, 01:35 AM
I just got a whitebody 360GTC..
Is the front splitter supposed to sit that way? So low and pointing down.
http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq194/Bodom_photos/360GTC/P1130339.jpg

The chassis isn't low at all and I don't want to make it even higher.
The other solution is to cut the splitter and part of the bumper.

z3zinho
2011.09.25, 05:22 AM
You can raise the front of the body by cuting the "lip" on bottom the body clip, and then gluing something the same height on top of the body clip. Also the lip is too low and it's huge.

I would raise the body a bit, then cut the lip until you're satisfied with how it sits on the car.

machgo5go
2011.09.25, 05:50 AM
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh123/machgo5go/F360GTCYellowBody007Large-1.jpg
Cut the entire lip off until you reach the bottom edge of the front 2 intake grill.
Buy the PN front nose clip adapter along with the F360 GTC carbon nose clip with adjustable shims. You can raise & lower the body's nose all you like.

Bodom
2011.09.25, 07:20 AM
Thanks for the advices. I thought cutting the front lip too, but wanted to hear some opinions first. machgo5go, what offset do you use up front?

Eman
2011.09.25, 12:24 PM
Cut the splitter off when I had mine on MA. Didn't like it on the MA. So I put it on this MR-02. I had to sand off another 1mm to clear uneven RCP joints. I really like this body on the MR-02.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k41/willis67017/Forum%20Pix/DSCF1606.jpg

arch2b
2011.09.25, 01:31 PM
i've always cut mine back but never completely shaved it off. always left 1-2mm lip for strength to the front plastic. i always suggest using subtractive methods sparingly and in small increments. once you cut it off, it doesn't grow back.

i always round the bottom upward as well so it would skid vs. snag.

Eman
2011.09.25, 01:54 PM
Rounding upward is a good idea. Strength is a concern on almost all ASCs. I reinforce almost all my bodies. If you reinforce the front there is no need to leave the lip/splitter. Unless you just like the way it looks.

arch2b
2011.09.25, 02:03 PM
Absolutely correct. If you can reinforce the inside curve of the front end, no need for the lip. I choose to take the simple route and leave just a smidge to the lip.

machgo5go
2011.09.25, 09:33 PM
Thanks for the advices. I thought cutting the front lip too, but wanted to hear some opinions first. machgo5go, what offset do you use up front? +1 offset up front. +1 or +.05 in Rear. This is my Stock PN 80T class car.

herman
2011.09.26, 01:56 AM
i'm with arch2b on this... just leave a short piece... it'll help strengthen the front in case of crashes...

Bodom
2011.09.26, 01:20 PM
Thank you all!
I decided to cut it at half and sand it at the bottom as much as I can...
The result is this and I think to leave it that way.
http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq194/Bodom_photos/360GTC/P1130399.jpg
http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq194/Bodom_photos/360GTC/P1130394.jpg

herman
2011.09.27, 02:47 AM
looks good to me... :D
don't forget to post pics of the finished painted body too... :D

mitchy2759
2011.09.28, 10:53 AM
im in the middle of making this white body too. i am wandering how do you cut the front lips? scissor or hobby knife?
as i have gtr and hsv white body need to be cut for the front lips as well.
thx.

machgo5go
2011.09.28, 11:04 AM
im in the middle of making this white body too. i am wandering how do you cut the front lips? scissor or hobby knife?
as i have gtr and hsv white body need to be cut for the front lips as well.
thx.Cut the majority of the access off with a cutter and then use a dremel to shape off the rest. If you are running at a track, these excess lips makes trouble with rails which you end up either getting stuck because it will stop the car immediately. You want the nose to be round so better chances of gliding off the rails. Remember, Dremel is your friend in Mini Z in order to enhance your plastic bodies performance.

arch2b
2011.09.28, 11:33 AM
nothing wrong with a dremel but i always recommend something that isn't able to take so much material off so quickly for those with less experience. a lot can go wrong with a dremel very quickly. if you've not done this much, start off with a sanding block and xacto. the cheap padded sanding blocks work great and have various grits on them.

unearthed name
2011.09.28, 11:43 AM
Sand paper and hobby knife. Where's your location?

Bodom
2011.09.28, 03:36 PM
I marked the cut line with a pencil. Then I cut the excess material with dremel, using thin metal toothed disc. I cut a bit away from the line. After that I shaped the lip with sand paper.

mitchy2759
2011.09.29, 10:22 AM
can anyone tell me what are the numbers of sand paper to use to smoothen the area that has been cut? thx

arch2b
2011.09.29, 10:44 AM
i use drywall sanding sponge, fine/meduim grit type. you can also get medium/coarse type. the fine face side is perfectly fine. these are cheap and great to keep in your pit box vs. sheets which get lost, ripped, folded, etc.

Bodom
2011.09.29, 02:02 PM
I used what I had at hand.
First 180, then 240, then 1000, and finally 1500.
This is not essential. Just use some low number girt and then some high number.
The splitter is not so vital to be perfectly smooth :D

:rolleyes:
http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq194/Bodom_photos/360GTC/P1130403.jpg

machgo5go
2011.09.29, 04:10 PM
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh123/machgo5go/F360GTCModenaMedium.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh123/machgo5go/PNReg2011Z002Medium-1.jpgI race with them weekly so did not spend much refinement in painting them up and I like the Monochromatic european scheme.

Bodom
2011.10.04, 03:51 PM
This is my first white body paint job, so I wanted to give my best painting it, even though I know I'll destroy it on the track. Just for experience. Here is the final result :cool:

http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq194/Bodom_photos/360GTC/P1130433.jpg
http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq194/Bodom_photos/360GTC/P1130438.jpg

Edit: All the pics HERE (http://s447.photobucket.com/albums/qq194/Bodom_photos/360GTC/)

color01
2011.10.04, 04:08 PM
Bodom, what wheel offsets are you running? It looks like you have huge amounts of space in your wheel wells... :)

Bodom
2011.10.05, 01:24 AM
Bodom, what wheel offsets are you running? It looks like you have huge amounts of space in your wheel wells... :)

Short answer: 0N / +0.5W

Long answer:
I bought +1N/+1W dedicated wheels for this Ferrari (this is stated to be the stock offsets of this body).
But +1N up front looks strange to me, so I put 0N on the front.
The rear is +1W, but mounted on the new Atomic "narrow" diff... so it is basically +0.5N. I didn't thought of that when I purchased the wheels lol :)
I don't like the look of a 19mm front wheel on this body. The front wheel arches are so huge... But this model is not available in 20mm Narrow :(

I haven't run the Ferrari yet. I will experiment with different wheels I got and will come up to a combination that suits me.

color01
2011.10.05, 02:34 AM
I see, thanks! On my F430 project I trimmed the front bumper high such that even +1.5N front wheels would look right. I've purchased some +1W Atomic S6 rims that I'm going to shave down to +1N for use on the front of this car. They're good wheels, but seriously we need a 20mm narrow version without requiring me to use the tire truer to cut a wheel.

Bodom
2011.10.05, 02:57 AM
I see, thanks! On my F430 project I trimmed the front bumper high such that even +1.5N front wheels would look right. I've purchased some +1W Atomic S6 rims that I'm going to shave down to +1N for use on the front of this car. They're good wheels, but seriously we need a 20mm narrow version without requiring me to use the tire truer to cut a wheel.

Wow, I've never thought of shaving wide wheel to narrow :rolleyes:
Interesting idea. Maybe I should try it :)
Thanks.

machgo5go
2011.10.05, 05:38 AM
Wow, I've never thought of shaving wide wheel to narrow :rolleyes:
Interesting idea. Maybe I should try it :)
Thanks.
http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy104/Majsrc/DSC_0155.jpg
SHAVED Rear +0 acts like +1 on front. I already gave my suggestion input to the manufacturer
to make matching 20mm front so I don't have to do this on my Tire Truer.

Bodom
2011.10.05, 07:30 AM
SHAVED Rear +0 acts like +1 on front. I already gave my suggestion input to the manufacturer
to make matching 20mm front so I don't have to do this on my Tire Truer.

I asked this question twice :)
One (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=395448&postcount=189), two (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=395818&postcount=198), and the answer (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=395901&postcount=202) was:
"Not at this moment because 20mm wheels tend to rub the body."

Are you sanding the outside edge of the rim only?

machgo5go
2011.10.05, 09:01 AM
I asked this question twice :)
One (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=395448&postcount=189), two (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=395818&postcount=198), and the answer (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=395901&postcount=202) was:
"Not at this moment because 20mm wheels tend to rub the body."

Are you sanding the outside edge of the rim only? No, I put the rim on my Hudy Tire Truer & by using a X-acto knife, I cut the entire lip off to the spoke when it is spinning as you can see & then finish it off the rough lip with a file.

pomme de terre
2011.10.23, 10:41 PM
Just wanted to say there's a lot of great information in this thread. I recently switched from the F430 to the 360GTC.

I had the same problem as Bodom, with the front splitter scraping the ground out of the box. z3zinho's advice was great. I shaved the front body clip, and glued a piece of plastic to the top side of it to raise the body relative to the chassis. That was enough to get the front high enough off the ground for RCP.

I tried to run it without trimming the front splitter, but had to trim it in the end after repeated snagging. I left about 1-2mm, just like Arch recommended. The body is a lot better with the splitter trimmed, but still nowhere as good as the F430 on RCP walls. Guess it's time to learn to be a better driver :rolleyes:

I still have a lot of problems with traction rolling though with stock offsets (using this for open mod class). Anyone try running +2N/+2W before?

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/4227/img3137jo.jpg

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9973/img3135zz.jpg