View Full Version : LM front and rear setup??

2011.12.21, 02:05 AM
Tried to search, but I must be using the wrong combinations of words...

I got a MR-03 and a Porsche 962 body.
Going to us a RR CTP 70T motor in this one.
Using Extra Long King Pins right now, but they are touching the body.
So I don't get the free movement of the front wheels.

I have not tried to dremel the body yet, since it looks like I have to dremel a lot.

What kind of front setup do you guys use for LM?

The rear...
I got the stock motor mount and PN #5 carbon T-plate.
Wondering what motormount and DPS you guys use and that seems to work.
I have the 64 pitch LM diff and ball bearings, but I would like a alu motormount and a good DPS it possible.
What are you guys using and what are good and what are not....

Any tips and tricks are welcome!
If you have any links it would be great

2011.12.21, 08:45 PM
We ruan a very competitive LM class in our club, and may be able to help.

On the rear part, go with the recently released PN LM mount. it's actually a variation of their adjustable carbon/alu motor mount. I found it to be a lot more consistent and easier to adjust than the 3Racing/R246 LM mount.

We all use 64 or even 126 pitch gear so being able to properly adjust mesh is key. In some cases the 3Racing/R246 can be a nightmare to adjust.

I also have a PN disk damper with a Kyosho plastic yellow oil shock. T-bar is the thinnest Kyosho carbon or a thinner one from 3Racing.

Tires are Kyosho 20 LM, on the original ASC wheels.

On the front, I personnaly use the reflex adjustable camber/cast tower, with lomg king pins. This is a critical setup in terms of making it all fit under the body (I run a Mazda 787b), but the performance and flexibility make up for the effort and guilt of having to dremel the body.

PN low down alu knuckles, yellow or white springs, and some shims to lower the front even further complete the front setup. I use Kyosho 30 LM tires on the original wheels on the front.

For the 962, a front bumper is mandatory, that is, 962 cars that were run without one did not last more than one or two nights.

2011.12.21, 09:54 PM
My setup is a little dated, but VERY competetive in its time, and still competetive for a true LM setup.

Most of the parts are Atomic since I raced for Atomic at the time that the car was developed, with some Reflex Racing added later...

The newer Atomic LM mount is superior to the one in the picture, as the older one had issues with the damper arm moving/coming loose. The new one comes with two different arms, one for LM configuration (lower damper height) and standard damper height.

I use Reflex long kingpins with a little droop in the springs, as well as springs in the inboard position. This gives me preload on the arms. Without the inboard springs, the arms shake a little on full throttle as weight is transferred rearwards.

The car is wicked fast with a fast motor, and good with a slower motor.

Sorry for the bad pics, but this is all that I have saved, and the car has been changed for a different class since we no longer run LM regularly.





2011.12.22, 04:30 AM
Thanks guys!!!
Great help and something to work with.

I have looked at the Reflex camber / caster front set and the low profile king pins. This might be the set I'm going with.
And the latest Atomic LM motor mount.

The PN LM motor mount I just don't get how works. Not sure if I dare to try that one out.

The pictures helped a lot

2011.12.22, 10:08 AM
I would also recommend either getting the 3Racing/R246 or Atomic LM disc damper system. This mounts the damper lower than the height of the chassis, which is what you need to clear the body. You may still need to shave a little of the body if you decide to use a top shock. But you shouldnt need to cut a hole.

I havent used the PN mount, so I cannot recommend it. But that does not mean that it is poor. I have used the older FMv4 with a standard length differential with good results, but I havent tried the newer LM version. I would assume that the PN version may actually provide a little more forward bite, since the t-plate is in the forward most position.

It is important to note how the motor wires are run under and out the side of the damper plate, as there is very little room above the damper. This reduces any chance of the motor wires hitting the body or top shock...

2011.12.22, 10:29 AM
Thanks for info.
I haven't tried the body on yet, since my front king pins are to long for this setup.
Hope to get some paint on my Porsche 962 C this xmass....

2012.01.14, 05:11 AM
ok, my rear is coming along nice.







Much better cooling, lower center of gravity.
Correct screws, extra parts. Beggining to like Atomic more and more.

Still missing kyosho top damper and reflex front.
Hoping to test this one on monday.

2012.01.15, 05:44 PM




2012.01.16, 05:37 PM
the car worked ok today.
I'm getting my RR front and Kyosho top damper tomorrow, so I hope it even gets better.
It's a real joy to drive.

2012.01.18, 01:25 PM
Got the new front and top damper for my LM yesterday



Just have to fix some issues and I'm ready to go