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BlackBerry
2011.12.27, 06:24 AM
What is the best handling body that is available in the MR03 ReadySet? Would this also happen to be the best handling body in the entire Auto Scale collection?

On another note, what is the lightest Kyosho body?

Thanks,

BlackBerry

chad508
2011.12.27, 07:54 AM
imo the only readyseats that handle out of the box are the lm chassis's

LED
2011.12.27, 11:53 AM
Lightest body not taking in account 90mm bodys, I think the mclaren (the short one).

twinkie
2011.12.27, 03:24 PM
I didn't think MR-03 came as a "ready set" as in with transmitter. Thought it was just chassis and body.

EMU
2011.12.27, 04:10 PM
The lightest Mini-Z body was the Z8. Then Mini-Cooper... 94mm wide body would probably be the F430, 98mm definitely the SLR, with a McLaren F1 LM close in 2nd. Weight may actually help the car run stable, and if you can modify your body, then you can remove excess weight easily.

I have moved away from lightweight bodies a bit, and started modifying the heavyweights (Mosler, Murcielago, etc) which I find gives me better results. Since the car is more planted, and has a lot of agility.

The best handling ASC really depends on the track and setup. If you are driving a box stock setup, then I would go with an LM Sauber. If you can upgrade the chassis, the Sauber is still good, but you may want to consider a long McLaren, or HSV for 98mm. The 430GT/360GTC need a little modification, but the F430 or F360 street bodies dont really require as much to make them race worthy. It is primarily the front lips on the race versions that rub the track/boards that need trimming.

twinkie
2011.12.27, 06:12 PM
people are also liking the Ferrari 599 for the 98mm

byebye
2011.12.27, 10:44 PM
Mclaren is what I'm running on a stock chassis. Handling can be drastically improved with very few mods. In terms of stability at high speeds 98mm+ chassis length is good. Anything shorter will be more twitchy but is great for tight tracks with lots of turns. A very popular 94mm body is the sc430.

Out the box, tires, and water break-in the motor. Run an 7 or 8 tooth gear for good torque for a stock motor and fets.

Kris

BlackBerry
2011.12.28, 02:34 AM
Thanks for all the advice so far guys. After some research this is what the car will need to be setup for an ultimately decide which body I choose:

Open Class (no motor limit)
Rubber Tires
Urethane Track
33x18 Feet Size Track (approximate)

So high speed stability is important. Which motor mount style and wheelbase would best suit this environment and class?

EMU
2011.12.28, 02:48 AM
I would see if you could get a Mosler body, 98mm. It is the best body for new and expert racers alike. For motormount, there are many options. You can run a 94mm mount at 98mm, or a 98mm mount. The 98mm mounts usually have a lower CG. But a 94mm mount will give you a little more rear grip since the mass is further to the rear.

I would recommend the new Reflex Racing 945 mount, at 98mm. This is currently my favorite motormount to use :)

bermbuster
2011.12.28, 09:32 AM
Thanks for all the advice so far guys. After some research this is what the car will need to be setup for an ultimately decide which body I choose:

Open Class (no motor limit)
Rubber Tires
Urethane Track
33x18 Feet Size Track (approximate)

So high speed stability is important. Which motor mount style and wheelbase would best suit this environment and class?

In open class racing along with high speed stability your chassis will need many hop ups to be competitive. You need to do some research. where are you racing? what is available at that track? what are the fast guys running?
You will need track and tuning time along with help to get your car dialed in.
You have many choices in hop ups....Atomic,Kyosho, PN, Reflex, 3r and others. Depending where you race some or all of the parts will be supported.
Be prepared to invest some $$$....:cool:

Like Emu said a 98mm wide chassis w and a Mosler Body is very competitive.

NoBrainer
2011.12.28, 12:03 PM
Like Emu said a 98mm wide chassis w and a Mosler Body is very competitive.

Yes but not with stock motor, stock motor mount, stock dampers.....etc..etc...

So you would be just fine with an MR-03 as long as you buy some bearings, wheels and tires first.
Then go to you're local club and see what the other guys recommend for that track. Or just buy a MR-03 and then go to the track, see what they run on. Buy the bearings, wheels and tires there and try.

If theres a shop there, you might want to get some damping front and rear alså. That means springs or extra long king pins in the front. And t-plate and maybe a disk damper in the rear at first.

Go simple first. Slow and easy.

You are going to end up with a lot of mods if this is fun. I promise you....

EMU
2011.12.28, 01:02 PM
I would recommend seeing what racers use at the local track. Most of the time, it is the best way to get up to speed. Bearings are essential. Focus on the rear of the car first, and then the front. Once you get the rear to work well, then it is easier to work on the front. If you do both at once, you may get lost in finding the balance of the car.

pomme de terre
2011.12.28, 02:37 PM
Assuming you'll be racing at MC3, Shawn has the Murcielago and 599xx in stock right now. Both are popular racing bodies for mod and both are 98mm. The 599xx is a little better on the rails because of its rounder front end, and more stable because it's +3 offset all around. There's also a range of white bodies available at MC3 if you decide to change things up (or keep the pretty autoscale as a display body), including the Mosler.

To get started at the track, you won't need much besides Kyosho 20 deg rear tires and 30 deg fronts (it's the combo everyone runs). Come by and you'll get plenty of help from everyone at the track. Everyone's super friendly. Shawn's pricing on parts is really good too.

BlackBerry
2011.12.29, 04:49 PM
Thanks for all the input guys but it seems this thread has gone a WAY off topic. PLEASE read the title. I am not a new to the scale racing world.

All I was asking is which KYOSHO BODY handles best, and not necessarily in stock form. Not advice on tuning aspects of the car. Only reason I brought up motor mount positions is because from when I last raced my MR-01 years ago the body chosen would limit motor mount options/positions, I am not sure if this is still the case with the MR-03.

The reason I posted the track setup and class is to help determine which wheelbase is best (another factor determined by BODY choice).

I just am trying to decide which MR-03 Readyset to buy, and would prefer not to buy an auto scale afterwards to improve handling for now.

So lets please stay on topic. People keep mentioning Mosler, is this a Kyosho body or aftermarket? I would prefer to stick to a Kyosho body for now so it would come with the readyset I purchase.

Thanks for finding this thread btw Jon. Hopefully I'll swing by tomorrow.

cowboysir
2011.12.29, 05:13 PM
pomme seems to have your answer then...if you're racing at MC3 like he mentions it stands to reason his choices of 599XX and Murc seem like good choices.

I've watched some competitors also have good running success with The Honda HSV-010 body...very fast and stable once the front splitter is ground way down.

Other bodies I've had that perform well (that can be found on a readyset) are the ferrari F430GT and Nissan GT500 from the 2008 JTGC reproductions.

Right now I'm using a Porsche 911GT1 autoscale (you can find it in readyset form) which seems super stable at 90 and 94mm MidMount setup(I ground out the rear wheelwells) and glances off the walls smoothly without hooking.

The Sauber LMP body can come in readyset form and is wicked stable but a bit fragile.

Have I added too much information?:D

blt456
2011.12.29, 08:45 PM
1. There is no best wheelbase, just like there is no "best" motor.
2. The Mosler is made by TRP, which is an aftermarket company
3. Just get a set of tires and make sure not to crash. The transition from larger scales to mini-z isn't as easy as it seems, despite what you may think.
4. Based on the track dimensions, you would probably be best off getting the ferrari 599xx readyset.

pomme de terre
2011.12.29, 10:33 PM
All I was asking is which KYOSHO BODY handles best, and not necessarily in stock form. Not advice on tuning aspects of the car. Only reason I brought up motor mount positions is because from when I last raced my MR-01 years ago the body chosen would limit motor mount options/positions, I am not sure if this is still the case with the MR-03.

The reason I posted the track setup and class is to help determine which wheelbase is best (another factor determined by BODY choice).

99% of people racing run mid-mount (MM), whether MR03 or MR02.

The stock plastic mid mount can only work at 98mm wheelbase (or longer). With many aftermarket motor mounts, you can run MM on bodies with wheelbases as short as 94mm. There are also special motor mounts like the Reflex ones (or special T-plates) that allow "in-between" wheelbases like 96mm. There's a pseudo MM motor mount for 90mm wheelbase as well, but its more of a hybrid between high mount (HM) and midmount.

As for racing, you'll find that nearly everyone runs 94mm or longer. 90mm is mostly left for "fun" classes, because theses bodies in conjunction with the short wheelbase tend to traction roll much, much easier. 98mm is probably the most popular standard wheelbase for racing, because even at 94mm traction rolling can be an issue.

As for popular racing bodies that I've noticed on the forums and at the tracks, here's a list. Keep in mind that many of these bodies will require modification... shaving, trimming, aero bits etc. to handle "well". Some will also require cutting or drilling to fit certain types of suspension you may upgrade to. Many people like to start with white bodies for this reason (although I'm one of those people who like to see people running autoscales because racing with realistic looking bodies is just so much cooler :cool:).

Mosler (TRP, 98mm)
599xx (Kyosho, 98mm, +3 offset all around)
Murcielago (Kyosho, 98mm, narrower offset in the front than rear)
Mclaren (Kyosho, 98mm, +0 offset all around, very light, very agile)
HSV (Kyosho, 98mm)
F430GTC (Kyosho, 94mm but often run at 96mm, +1 offset all around, VERY good with RCP barriers)
F360GTC (Kyosho, 94mm but often run at 96mm, +1 offset all around)
SC430 (Kyosho, 94mm but often run at 96mm, +0 offset all around)
350Z (Kyosho, 94mm but often run at 96mm)

This website will give you info with regards to wheelbases and offsets for most Kyosho bodies:
http://www.mini-z-guide.com/bodies.htm

By the way, this is all assuming that you're racing on RCP, which is very high grip. Carpet is going to be totally different.

kyoshosan
2011.12.29, 11:52 PM
3. Just get a set of tires and make sure not to crash. The transition from larger scales to mini-z isn't as easy as it seems, despite what you may think.

This is so true!! I consider myself a fairly competent 1/8 scale off-road racer but i still haven't got the feel when driving my Mini-Zs! I suck big time, I'd like to believe that I still haven't got the setup right on my Mini-Z... time will tell :-)

mleemor60
2011.12.30, 05:46 AM
There is a very close similarity to 1/8th scale on road with the Z's. Believe it or not. The relative speed capabilities based on the track dimensions create a hand eye co ordination very similar to the big cars. On top of that when the RCP surface is factored in it is like driving sports prototypes on a gravel road. No slight to RCP but the textured surface at scale with the car and tire size isn't as smooth as we might think. Even the best carpet surface is rougher than a cobb at scale. These are truly amazing little cars that are a hoot and a half to drive.

BlackBerry
2011.12.31, 01:56 PM
Thanks Jon, that is exactly the kind of information I was looking for, and that website makes life a lot easier.

I am aware that there is no "best wheelbase". I was asking based on the track and class information I provided, what would be "best" in your guys personal opinion, and I understand this can vary from person to person.

I feel perfectly comfortable racing Mini-Z again, despite what some of your personal opinions on how the transition would be. I hate it when forums get littered with mis-information like this.

Last night I ran a rented a 100% stock MR015 Nascar and my driving was pathetic, I worried the skill I thought I had might be gone (I still wasn't clocking the slowest lap times of the day however). Later in the night Jon (pomme_de_terre) generously offered to let me take his open class MR03 around the track for a few minutes and I felt right at home again, perfectly comfortable going all out after only a couple of laps (though he did reduce the max throttle maybe 10% on his TX just incase). He is the fastest guy at the track and I felt PERFECTLY comfortable going FULL throttle on his car vs the 100% stock car I rented. So there, internet BS put to rest.

Anyway back on topic, Jon I noticed in your earlier post you mentioned the +3 et of the 599 would be more stable. I understand the thinking behind this but is it the most optimal set-up for MC3? Because if I pick up the 599 I might not have clearance to run lower offset wheels with it, or would I? How offset adjustment friendly is the 599 since it runs the highest offset (I think?). Is +3 et the highest offset available for the MR-03? What is the lowest?

I also notice you run +1.5 et on your 360GTC when the body comes equipped with +1. I understand you have after-market wheels but do you prefer the narrower set-up or you just had +1.5 et wheels? If you had it your way (if for some reason you currently don't) and the body wasn't a limiting factor what offset would you run?

Thanks to those who understood the purpose of this thread and have kept it on topic. I am leaning towards the 599 because my LHS has it in stock but I want to make sure I am not stuck running a +3 offset if that's not what's optimal for our track.

BlackBerry

byebye
2011.12.31, 04:11 PM
Yay good for you...Noob questions get noob answers. If you don't like what your reading there is a search button...

Kris

BlackBerry
2011.12.31, 06:54 PM
Yay good for you...Noob questions get noob answers. If you don't like what your reading there is a search button...

Kris

I understand it was a noob question, but why does that matter? It was a question only pertaining to body choice. These "answers" as you call them are in fact just off topic unrelated comments as they do no relate to this thread's topic or content.

BlackBerry

twinkie
2011.12.31, 10:37 PM
so i have a "noob question".... if you ran Jon (pomme_de_terre) car/setup, and you felt perfectly comfortable with it... why not copy his set-up?

I tend to swap cars at practice with other fellow racers to see how their set-up feels and if I like it I do the same exact thing. Or better yet have them possibly set-up my car.

I'm usually the one running the non-preferred body, right now I currently run the mclaren f1 gtr (being competitive in sportsman class), and in the past have ran the corvette c5r (winning the novice class). SO I generally hardly ever give any "best" body tips.

cowboysir
2011.12.31, 10:46 PM
I guess you keep missing the point.

Your question about "best body" has been asked before. When someone new comes on and repeats a previous topic in a new thread people assume (incorrectly in your view) that as much help as possible could be shared. You ask a body in "setups" so many more knowledgeable people than you deserve try to impart some knowledge that you may not have.

I've had many threads where answers I wasn't looking for were shared and wound up helping other readers. A forum is for discussion and not solely for personal gain.

I hope in the future your condescending view of our help can be kept to yourself. This normally giving community might find you not worth answering. :rolleyes:

byebye
2012.01.01, 01:49 AM
so i have a "noob question".... if you ran Jon (pomme_de_terre) car/setup, and you felt perfectly comfortable with it... why not copy his set-up?

I tend to swap cars at practice with other fellow racers to see how their set-up feels and if I like it I do the same exact thing. Or better yet have them possibly set-up my car.

I'm usually the one running the non-preferred body, right now I currently run the mclaren f1 gtr (being competitive in sportsman class), and in the past have ran the corvette c5r (winning the novice class). SO I generally hardly ever give any "best" body tips.
+1
I guess you keep missing the point.

Your question about "best body" has been asked before. When someone new comes on and repeats a previous topic in a new thread people assume (incorrectly in your view) that as much help as possible could be shared. You ask a body in "setups" so many more knowledgeable people than you deserve try to impart some knowledge that you may not have.

I've had many threads where answers I wasn't looking for were shared and wound up helping other readers. A forum is for discussion and not solely for personal gain.

I hope in the future your condescending view of our help can be kept to yourself. This normally giving community might find you not worth answering. :rolleyes:
Exactly...:cool:

The great thing that I have learned about this community for this scale is the amount of good information shared regardless of competitive edge.

Kris

pomme de terre
2012.01.01, 02:56 AM
Blackberry, everyone in this thread is just trying to help. You're taking it the wrong way.

And I'm not the fastest guy at the track nor am I the most knowledgable. There are many people in this thread and on this forum with much more experience and knowledge than me. You should read through their comments again and take note of their advice.

BlackBerry
2012.01.01, 06:30 AM
It seems you guys have misunderstood me as well. I appreciate any good advice whether it relates to the topic or not, however I just don't like it when people post their personal opinions as fact so that when another newbie comes by and reads this thread he might be mis-informed. I have taken in everything useful that has been posted in this thread, and there is a lot I did not know prior to starting it. Can we drop it already like mature adults and get back on topic?

Twinkie, I do plan on using pomme's setup as a base setup as I know jack about tuning to be completely honest, I just know how to get a car around the track. But for now, I just wanted to make an educated choice and figure out which body is best to start with so I don't buy a body twice. I am going to be heavily dependent on the local guys and this forum when it comes to tuning my chassis.

cowboysir, I hope you understand what I'm getting at by reading my first paragraph in this post, I appreciate any useful advice. My comments were not directed at everyone who posted something off topic, as I said earlier there is a lot I have learned since the creation of this thread.

Jon, I know everyone is trying to help. I also know you are not the fasted but I find you are one of the most consistent, and in my personal opinion at the end of the day that seems to count (and what gets you first podium).

My apologies to anyone I might have offended, I understand how a forum works and how a thread is not just for the original poster's gain, if you read my posts correctly you guys will see that is exactly the reason why I
got frustrated.


Let's get back on topic now if anyone still wants to still post in my thread? If you are new to the thread see my last post regarding my body questions.

Thanks,

BlackBerry

byebye
2012.01.01, 08:27 AM
Your original question is too general to answer. Even the one regarding the 599 wheel offset. You can run any wheel offset on any car at any wheel base. Some bodies can fit up to 3 and some only up to 0. But you are not restricted on a 599. It's the chassis web and wheel offset that makes a difference.

I would buy the 599 and run it stock with the tires preferred for the track. Then ask your questions. You want the be all end all when that just cannot be answered.

color01
2012.01.01, 05:21 PM
+3W on a Mini Cooper. :D



Blackberry, the one point I have to contribute to this thread is that Mini-Z bodies are percentage-wise a much larger portion of the car's weight than in other scales. As such, the different bodies handle so differently that there is no one "best" -- each one has very distinctive characteristics that you need to maximize or minimize in the chassis setup in order to go fast. The "best handling" body is going to be the one that you are able to connect with and understand. For me, that's the HSV-010 or GT-R GT500; I dig the rear-biased weight distribution and the front downforce, and with a little work they handle RCP rails acceptably. Other people like the 599XX, it's an easygoing body that doesn't like to slide, and you can run high-offset front wheels for even more stability. The Mosler is another good choice for these qualities but has a front-biased weight distribution instead of rear-biased.

All of these bodies happen to be 98mm, they strike a good compromise of stability and agility, traction and "freeing up the rear tires", and are wide enough that you can run high-offset front wheels to avoid traction rolling on grippy RCP. If you don't know how a body handles (or how a different way of building a certain body handles, for that matter) it's usually just a matter of asking someone local who's got it.

pzchuky
2012.01.01, 10:53 PM
Like most of they guys said there is no one body that is the best.

my preferred body is a tossup with the sc430 or the F430 i run them on a 96mm wheel base with 0 offset all around.

if you enjoy mini z you will eventually get several different body's to experiment.

The only advice i cant stress the most is HAVE FUN.
That's why most of us race mini z

pomme de terre
2012.01.02, 09:36 PM
Ditto to what everyone said.

You can't go wrong starting with the 599xx. One of the fastest guys at MC3 runs it as well. And like pzchuky said, chances are you will end up experimenting with different bodies down the road anyways, so don't worry too much.

By the way, the night you drove my car I was running the 360GTC at 96mm, not 98mm. I change things up depending on the layout and what's working. I also switch between +1 and +1.5 offset sometimes, depending on what wheels I happen to have tires mounted on (I'm lazy :p).