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CiviX
2012.05.10, 04:20 PM
Hello,

I use to race with the double A-Arm on my Mr03.
Thanks to advises from Grant (I've met him in France), I can say that my front setup is really good for my driving style.I use to drive with 1 camber and 2 caster.
But what is the advantage of the front 1 camber lower arm ?
I've read that the traveling of the knuckle is smoother??? is that the only +.
So is it better to buy this front lower arm or let my setup like I have. I don't care spending money but only if it's worth cause this part is quite expensive.

Sorry for my bad english

Thank you

bcpzx3
2012.05.10, 05:59 PM
I'm still running mine without the +1 degree lower arm. I've heard good feedback from them, I've gotten my car to handle quite well as it sits right now. You can find the setup on my blog, Keep in mind I have the double A-Arm on a mr-03. http://questforamainchamp.blogspot.com/

PNracing
2012.05.10, 06:15 PM
Hello,

I use to race with the double A-Arm on my Mr03.
Thanks to advises from Grant (I've met him in France), I can say that my front setup is really good for my driving style.I use to drive with 1 camber and 2 caster.
But what is the advantage of the front 1 camber lower arm ?
I've read that the traveling of the knuckle is smoother??? is that the only +.
So is it better to buy this front lower arm or let my setup like I have. I don't care spending money but only if it's worth cause this part is quite expensive.

Sorry for my bad english

Thank you

You can buy MR02 1 degree lower arm, but you need make some modify clearance issue on MR03 A arm.

http://www.kenonhobby.com/search.asp?keyword=mr2502&search.x=18&search.y=10

yasuji
2012.05.10, 08:24 PM
Hello,

I use to race with the double A-Arm on my Mr03.
Thanks to advises from Grant (I've met him in France), I can say that my front setup is really good for my driving style.I use to drive with 1 camber and 2 caster.
But what is the advantage of the front 1 camber lower arm ?
I've read that the traveling of the knuckle is smoother??? is that the only +.
So is it better to buy this front lower arm or let my setup like I have. I don't care spending money but only if it's worth cause this part is quite expensive.

Sorry for my bad english

Thank you
each have there different uses... i used the +1 on my 43t car and std on my mod car:D

CiviX
2012.05.11, 07:09 AM
Thanks for answering me so fast.

But Pn (Phil) answer that with MR03 il must have some clearance issue.
Could you explain what to do as to make a really clean work on this part.

Thank you.

yasuji
2012.05.12, 12:08 AM
Thanks for answering me so fast.

But Pn (Phil) answer that with MR03 il must have some clearance issue.
Could you explain what to do as to make a really clean work on this part.

Thank you.

it is very minor... on the lower arm mount , where the arm pivots there is a slight radius just file to a straight corner to allow the arms to drop flat
DO NOT OVER MODIFY THIS AREA
AND DO NOT REDUCE THE WIDTH OF THE PIVOT BLOCK

glider
2012.09.08, 06:07 PM
I just finished installing the 1 degree lower arm on my MR03 before reading this thread. If you look at the new arm relative to the original arm there is more material around the hole that accepts the hinge pin. This material causes unacceptable binding because it rubs against the mating piece. You must locate the spot of rubbing and trim it just enough to relieve the binding. I used a fresh razor blade to accomplish this task. As has been said, if you remove too much you may trash the whole setup because removing the anodization can lead to massive wear in that region. So be judicious when and only minimally relieve the needed area.

glider
2012.09.08, 06:18 PM
Before installing the 1 degree arm I found that my driving style was best accommodated by setting the standard Double A-Arm to 1 degree camber with the lessor 0.89 degree camber induction per mm of travel. So I figure I will be setting the new arm to the normal 0 degree position and getting roughly the same starting 1 degree camber but with a touch more camber induction (maybe about 1.05 degrees/mm). I think this will be the only viable position for me.

What strikes me above all is that this modification gives significantly more toe out! Even with the AA +1.0 tie rod there is appreciable toe out. So I am thinking that translates into more mid corner grip and slower turn in. For those in the know what is the history behind the 1 degree arm? Is it thought that the original designed missed the mark and this compensated for a deficit?

color01
2012.09.10, 12:18 AM
You can speculate all you like, but I agree with you that there's pretty much only one way to go with the geometry using the 1deg lower arm, but it's also the only way to go period for the speed, flow and traction of most club-sized RCP tracks. For smaller tracks (Mini-96 for example) you'll want to go back to the standard lower arm and compensate camber and toe back to the original settings (typically 1d camber and 0d toe). But for big tracks, the longer lower arm, the slight toe out (use the 1d tierod), and the camber gain are pretty close to the ideal settings. I do wish that we could have a longer tierod and upper arm to match the lower arm as well, but that goes to Philip's mercy whether or not this part will be made.

glider
2012.10.18, 10:25 PM
Hello Brian,

Thanks for all your input on these threads. I have learned a lot from it.

I have come back to this setup again after going back to the original for a while. As I have gotten to drive a bit better I find that it will carry more speed through the corners and is well balanced. I think the standard setup at 1 degree with max camber induction is good as well but lags a bit on initial turn in and is a touch more susceptibility to traction rolls.

I really would like to be able to buy a +1.5 tie rod for another tuning option! So far I have stuck with 0 degree castor to optimize initial turn in. But I need to experiment with added castor. Care to share your thoughts on why you prefer the 2 degree castor setup?

color01
2012.10.19, 01:27 AM
Care to share your thoughts on why you prefer the 2 degree castor setup?
Driver preference really. On the Eurus, for my Mod car I've programmed in a 50% drag brake when I lift completely off the gas, so the front end tucks in pretty well -- could technically use a little more, but I'm so out of practice it would be too easy to lose consistency. So because of that I'd rather get out of the corner faster, leading to the 2deg caster setup.

I haven't confirmed it but I think the longest Kyosho (red plastic) tierod is the longest tierod, possibly longer than the PN AA+1 tierod if it truly adds 0.6mm to each side of the "stock" tierod length. I believe it's like a 4.5deg toe in rod on the stock front end, it's probably worth a try on the A-arm front. That would assist on turn in a little bit and make the car more efficient overall (burning off less front rubber) IF it's true.

glider
2012.10.19, 11:27 AM
Thanks for the tip on the Kyosho plastic tie rod. I will check it out soon.

It is funny you mention using drag brake. I was just exploring options last night for enhancing weight transfer to the front wheels and noticed the NutBrake option should do just that as you state. I am also considering giving the harder motor brush springs on my EvoR motor a try.

One of my difficulties optimizing my driving is not unwinding the steering quick enough on corner exits. I am getting better at it with practice. In a real car more castor helps with the return to center. I guess I have 2 reasons for not trying yet. One, is that because the servo is supposed to hold its setting (although this is adjustable on chip) I thought this return to neutral effect would be heavily attenuated (instead I increased the return spring tension on my transmitter wheel). Two, I started with Dnano and Kyosho made a big deal out of the car having zero castor and therefore zero scrub. But you have motivating me to give it a go and overcome the third difficulty which is the hassle of inserting those fiddly little spacers to accomplish it :-)

Thanks again for the advice!

glider
2012.10.20, 10:20 AM
As an addendum the Neutral Brake setting seems to work pretty nicely. Like all the means I have tried to increase engine braking through the radio it suffers from losing the ability to get into reverse at some point. At least on the Eurus the NutBrake can be set to switch like BT1 to toggle it off when needing to reverse the car. If anyone has tips on how to otherwise increase engine braking via the tranmitter without losing reverse I would love to hear it.

glider
2012.10.23, 09:39 PM
I haven't confirmed it but I think the longest Kyosho (red plastic) tierod is the longest tierod, possibly longer than the PN AA+1 tierod if it truly adds 0.6mm to each side of the "stock" tierod length. I believe it's like a 4.5deg toe in rod on the stock front end, it's probably worth a try on the A-arm front. That would assist on turn in a little bit and make the car more efficient overall (burning off less front rubber) IF it's true.

I believe those tie rods are for the MR02. I checked out the Kyosho black plastic tie rod set for my MR03 and the longest one labeled "W+6" is still shorter than the AA+1 rod :-(