View Full Version : Model Masters Paint Tips

2012.06.28, 10:59 AM
I figured I would post this since I seem to be the only person who can successfully use Model Masters. I did these bodies fast since I had to do 3 before the KO race. I usually take my time and it takes about a week, but this time I had to chance/rush the cure time and do it in three days.

First off I like it due to it being Lacquer nice and thick, and is easy to work with.

So here we go.

Things you will need:

1.Clean Work Areahttps://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/thumbnail/photo01/5c/ce/11430f9c4d99__1340894974000.jpg?tw=0&th=720&s=true&rs=false

2.Denatured Alcohol https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/thumbnail/photo03/bb/6d/dd3180a615ff__1340894979000.jpg?tw=0&th=720&s=true&rs=false

3. Tamiya Masking Tape (could be another brand I just prefer Tamiya)
And a blue painters tape.

3. Tack Rag

2012.06.28, 11:02 AM
Step 1. Cut the body to your liking (if needed)

Step 2. Wash the body using luke warm water. I just use hand soap. The goal is to remove any oil(s) that could be on the body that would cause fish eye. And to remove any contaminants that can cause the paint to lift. (note: I usually where latex gloves but this is a demo pic)

Step 3. Whipe the body with denatured alcohol. Again removes oil, and moisture.

Step 4. Just gently swipe the body with the tack rag to remove any dust or small lint from the body.

2012.06.28, 11:08 AM
Start Masking your design.

I use the tamiya tape to mask off the lines then follow up with the blue tape for better area coverage

2012.06.28, 11:15 AM
Start Masking your design.

I use the tamiya tape to mask off the lines then follow up with the blue tape for better area coverage

2012.06.28, 11:18 AM
When creating stripes remember to make your self some guide lines. I use tape on the bottom and on the top as well if the stripe is angled.

And for stripe placement I will using masking tape to mark the distance between the two stripes. Here I am using approx. 1/3 the tape's width.

2012.06.28, 11:20 AM
Then I use the blue tape to cover more area faster. Remember to overlap at least half the tapes width. You get two things better adhesion, and if the color bleeds, it wont travel as far.

2012.06.28, 11:22 AM
Again whipe down the body with denatured alcohol and swipe with the tack rag.
Now I'm a simple guy so I use a bent hangar for a paint stand.

2012.06.28, 11:28 AM
Now your ready for your first stage of color.

Now I am painting three different bodies so the colors may be different in the pictures. But all three bodies have the same design.

I use a cardboard box for a booth that I have been using for months now.

I take a damp towel and wipe down the box and my work area. It removes the dust, and will help keep the dust down when shooting.

Make your first come of coats light, wait about two minutes the paint will start to get tacky. Put down a heavier coat, wait about 4-5 min, then hit it with a nice coat. The heavy top coat should remove a lot of the orange peel. That technique takes time and trial and error on how fast to move the spray.


2012.06.28, 11:34 AM

After about a couple of hours to 24 hours, go ahead and remove the masking. Remember that if the masking is removed to early the edges of the paint will pull up giving you an uneven. If the paint is soft enough you can lightly push it back down ( i don't recommend it but I did it during this rush job).

Notice how it bled through, but because the tape was overlapped halfway I don't have to worry about the body. Now if you do get a portion that ran through, don't worry. If it is just a mist, take your rag with denatured alcohol and just wipe the paint away.

2012.06.28, 11:35 AM

Now I typically wait 24hours before applying my next stage of masking. You spend so much time prepping and everything its would suck to have your tape removing paint.


Now to get a clean mask in some areas like the nose of the car I will take a SHARP exacto blade cut the tape to the body line.

2012.06.28, 11:41 AM
Again after masking wipe with denatured alcohol and swipe with the tack rag.

Apply your light coats then hit it.


2012.06.28, 11:44 AM

Wait 24 hours and do it all over again...


2012.06.28, 11:47 AM
Remember when wiping with the denatured alcohol be gentle, and do not wash it down. very light and very very little pressure. The denatured alcohol will remove the paint.



2012.06.28, 11:51 AM
ok now the cans say that it can be cleared after 2 hours... me personally I wait 24 hours. I want to make sure I am no where near that flash time. Flash time is the time where the chemicals are being released from the paint and the paint is drying/adhering itself to the part. If you spray during the flash time, the paint will lift, crack, bubble, just be ugly.

With the clear again, a couple light coats then just hit it. The part should just look "wet".

Here is what model masters paint clear will look. The rear deck lid is nice, deep and wet looking. The roof and the hood is a light color so not much depth but its also a metallic.


2012.06.28, 11:54 AM
My girlfriends car for the KO Propo Grand Prix. We didn't have time to paint the rear pillars. But you can see the metallic pearl in the silver in this picture.


Also didn't have time to wax it...will be doing that this weekend.

2012.06.28, 11:56 AM
Hopes this helps... Don't know if what I do is the normal. But I have never had an issue with Model Master Lacquer Systems.

The only thing I tend to stress all the time is prep work, prep work, and prep work. Keep that contamination out of the paint and it should come out good.

2012.06.28, 02:56 PM

Great how to, no matter what paint you use.

2012.06.28, 04:01 PM
thanks. If you want a real durable finish you can scuff the body with 1200 grit, prime it scuff it again lightly then paint it. That paint is going to stay on even after a few good hits. Without scuffing and primer I notice that after a couple good hits the paint scratches. The purple and silver car though tends to be holding up really well. Just need to wax it so the other cars will just glide off her. LOL

2012.06.28, 08:27 PM
great tutorial, paint type is irrelevant compared to the methods being explained. your process is very similar to mine but i don't do nearly the prep work you do. i should but i just never get to it, always short on time to get them done.

buy xacto blades in bulk! i change mine with each new car i paint, if not more than that. it should be sharp enough to cut the tape without much pressure. a sharp knife and quality mask tape are your best friends. buy mask tape in bulk to!

i usually wait 24 hours between colors as well. just making sure proper adhesion and curing are done, better safe than sorry.

i have yet to find a clear coat that i've been able to apply without ruining the finish. i've tried testors, tamiya, kyrlon, rustoeum, etc. i can at least get consistent results with future. one of these days i'll get that part right.

2012.06.28, 09:59 PM
the clear needs to go on heavy, any inconsistency in the clear will show. So if you do multiple light coats the clear will tell when you drag your fingers on it. You will feel little bumps as the height of the clear will all be different. Also when painting you gotta make sure the chemicals are compatible. If not you will get lift. I showed an example to my boss when he asked me to use krylon paint over powder coat. It crinkled and lifted in about 5 min. I had to shoot a primer/sealer on then hit it with the krylon.

I thought about trying a buffer wheel on a dremel so I can wet sand and then polish the clear using a 3m 2400 grit polish and then wax afterwards like finishing a real car, but I dont think I can slow down the dremel enough to keep from burning through the clear.

btw I know that Lacquer can go over enamel, but enamel can not go over lacquer. When doing lacquer over I let my enamel sit for at least a week.

2012.06.28, 10:03 PM
Im getting to the point and having so much fun with paint again, that I'm about ready to break out my jam gun go to the automotive paint store and start grabbing some colors. Then I don't need to worry about the hobby store having the color I need, I can just make it.

2012.06.29, 11:22 PM
I saw the paintjobs in person and I must say you did a great job using this stuff your car and gf's stood out so well at the ko gp:)

2012.07.02, 11:25 PM
good job, nice pics, and great tips... :D

2013.06.20, 03:45 PM
beautiful work done!:)

2013.12.12, 11:06 AM

doing some searching. i'm not bad w/ the rattle can, i'm just curious if the bleeding as a part of which masking tape you use has been rectified yet..has anyone sourced a real good masking tape that allows no bleeding? i have a simple type paint job i want to try out on a couple of bodies, i just want it to turn out right.

2013.12.13, 11:01 AM
anyone with masking tape input?

2013.12.13, 05:28 PM
I have never used anything but Blue or green painters tape with no issues or bleed. The first coat I put down is pretty much a dry coat to set the surface for the wet or finish coat.

2013.12.13, 07:28 PM
tamiya makes real good tape. but its pricey.

2013.12.16, 07:32 AM
ok thanks fellas