View Full Version : Frying Radio Modules?...

2012.07.27, 11:03 AM
Just fried another module in my Helios... so I gutted my last KT18 and swapped the board from that into the module and it's back working again.

Now, my first case of a fried module was when I bought a used Spektrum module and used it for my 10th scale. The thing worked for a while with no problems while I beat the truck around my house but when I got to the track and gave it a full night of useage, I noticed it getting a little warm. When I got home and broke the Spektrum module open, I found a crusty, half burnt resistor in there. I then thought that it must have been that way when I bought it but now I'm having my doubts.

First ASF module that fried... well, not really sure what to call it here. It wouldn't bind with new cars but it still worked with the old ones. I tried it a bunch of times to bind it to different cars and it just wouldn't do it. So I busted up one of my KT18s and swapped that little black box into the module and it worked just fine. Tried putting the modules black box into the KT18 and it wouldn't work in that radio either.

So, here we are again... a few months down the road and I go down to mess with the cars one night and the radio isn't working with any of the cars, lights on, power is good... WTH? So, cracked open another KT18, swapped little black boxes again, and the radio works fine... but for how long?

With all that in mind... what could be causing this? Is it a short in the radio? is it getting too much juice from the new Lipo battery in the radio? Is there a setting in the radio that I should be on for specific modules?

I've seen the little switch in the module cavity explained in the manual (P19)... should I have it set to high speed or normal?... could that be the culprit?


Any help appreciated!

Awful quiet in the forums lately... :confused:

2012.07.27, 01:27 PM
If your module has shorted out, you might want to check the PC board trace on the switch for damage and also the other two boards in the transmitter for damage.

Reverse voltage of the transmitter pack or too high of a voltage can/will damage the module and PC board traces.

The transmitter was built to operate at a maximum voltage of 12.0V. A fully charged Lipo can reach 13.4. The initial moment of turning on the switch in the transmitter will high voltage (Lipo) can spike the voltage to 15V which will damage components.

2012.07.27, 02:48 PM
Ok, that makes sense because I don't think I had any issues until I got the lipo in there.

I'm still curious about the the Hi-Speed/Normal switch in the module cavity... If I'm running just Mini-Zs now, what should that be set at? Is there a benefit to the High Speed setting for the Zs?

2012.07.27, 02:53 PM
Response can be changed for different feelings. I would run in the switch in the High setting make sure the system is set to 2 channel. This would be the fastest response mode (Advanced). If you set it to 3 channel this would be a little slower and would be High response mode.

2012.07.27, 07:37 PM
Thanks for the fast response! Now I just have to discharge my lipo a bit.