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cowboysir
2012.09.08, 07:01 PM
hey guys,

Since most of you know 2 things about me i figured a page for those 2 things is needed so you can check up on things as they progress.

For those of you who don't know me:

1. I am a natural born tinkerer...even if the model/chassis works fine I'm always one to try something different.

2. I am an epic procrastinator! I've had some great ideas in my head for years....sooner or later I'll try them out. I have a bunch of ideas on the go and a couple new ones coming for me in the mail...with our summer racing season coming to a close I figured I'd make a go of getting some done.:D

cowboysir
2012.09.08, 07:07 PM
my first finally completed project is one I'd been thinking about for a year or so. When i finally got a drill press attachment for my Dremel i figured that would give me the steady drilling I needed to complete this task. It's a simple project but a good start for my pile of stuff I want to do...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/004-6.jpg

I don't know if i'm the first to try it but I thought since I had a complete MR02 A-Arm sitting around doing nothing why not mount it to my MR015.

This bad boy will be asf (ra-22) in a couple weeks...it's going to be a short wheelbase racer and I hope it'll kill the competition.

RFick73
2012.09.09, 10:51 AM
Looks good Derek!

Can't wait to see it run!

cowboysir
2012.09.16, 02:54 PM
So I bought a tamiya airbrush kit about 6-7 years ago for my wife when she was making signature decorative chocolates. It got used once and she didn't like it....:rolleyes:

Pulled it out today to start with my new color scheme for all my upcoming white bodies. No more plain white for me.

Thanks to my buddy Landon I'm going to try and reproduce his awesome work with my Repsol Honda HSV on all my racing fleet.

xmodcanuck
2012.09.16, 03:23 PM
That's one thing I wish I had, an airbrush. But then I'd need an air compressor and probably a garage to paint in. Wait a minute, that airbrush just got really expensive. Never mind, I'll stick with cans.

Can't wait to see what you produce.

cowboysir
2012.09.16, 03:33 PM
The one thing I'm going to have to work on is my taping skills. Areas that didn't get sealed quite enough have obvious colour flares.

I'll get some shots done by end of today...my practice 430SC body is up to its red layer so I imagine I can get close to finish tonight.

I'm hoping to get a compressor as well. The tamiya is a basic air pump and works fine but it'll take forever to do 10th scale bodies with it. I got a Badger dual stage siphon system from a friend in a huge RC gear purchase so I'll have that to use as well.

cowboysir
2012.09.16, 06:47 PM
test body done...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/003-7.jpg

The red is a bit more Ferrari Red than I'd like compared to the candy red Landon got on my Honda and the Orange when sprayed onto a primer comes out a bit more orange yet in the container has the golden hue I was hoping for. I hope when my next round attempt goes on my Mosler it'll look a bit more golden orange.

I'm going to let this cure a couple days and then wash it to remove the tape residue...then clearcoat and my first ever completed paintjob will be in the books.:D

cowboysir
2012.10.01, 09:55 AM
Tried some color mixing ideas to match the great color Landon used for my Repsol Honda...

A mixture of Orange, white, yellow and a bit of gold to get close:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/007-8.jpg

Gold underlay with a clear orange topcoat:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/008-6.jpg

I like both but I'm going to try a combination of the two mixes to get what i'm hoping to acheive...I'm hoping mixing a tiny bit of yellow in with gold will lighten it and then the clear orange top coat will hit the mark I want.

I was also able to get my favorite two part epoxy from a place in the city so I'll be starting a scratch cfrp chassis in the very near future. I just have to decide which of my many ideas I should start with...:rolleyes:

xmodcanuck
2012.10.02, 12:40 AM
I think the first one is the best of the two. Throw that colour on with some clear and call it a day. What is that body?? Doesn't look like a mini-z.

MXMRCR
2012.10.02, 06:08 AM
where did you get the 458 from already?

d1nzfe
2012.10.02, 06:11 AM
Looks like its 1/24 models.
Last one looks like EP3?

cowboysir
2012.10.02, 08:40 AM
yep...they are both models. The 458 is a Revell and the 03Civic was a Fujitsu model.

Part of the grand schemes for the future.:D

cowboysir
2012.10.05, 01:10 PM
Quick bit of a laugh for the club...

Prepping my whitebody Audi for paint and under inspection i found 4 paint smears on the rear bumper area...

all of them were yellow.:eek:

guess someone still has a bit more work to do when trying for the pass.:p

Repsol Audi and Lexus SC430 in a couple days.:D

RFick73
2012.10.07, 02:58 PM
Prepping my whitebody Audi for paint and under inspection i found 4 paint smears on the rear bumper area...

all of them were yellow.:eek:

guess someone still has a bit more work to do when trying for the pass.:p


No comment! :o

DaveW
2012.10.09, 01:30 AM
Wow. No Green?

cowboysir
2012.10.31, 02:05 PM
Got my compressor on the weekend so the Badger airbrush will be up and running soon (today I hope). Some fittings need to be purchased (off to the Home Depot) and some bottle sizes for my airbrush....

Hopefully I get good at this and it doesn't become a huge wasted effort. :eek:

You think the wife is going get upset when I ask to use the downstairs shower stall as my indoor paint room?

xmodcanuck
2012.11.02, 04:42 PM
You think the wife is going get upset when I ask to use the downstairs shower stall as my indoor paint room?

Ummmm, yes. Yes, I think she will.
Isn't your garage heated? A big cardboard box in there somewhere would be perfect.

cowboysir
2012.11.02, 07:41 PM
I'm thinking about my lexan bodies as well so i might want a space heated and ventilated.

Got a good idea on how to do up the shower stall so it might come together tomorrow.

I'll post some pics.;)

cowboysir
2012.11.12, 08:18 PM
Repsol Lexus, Audi and Mosler done and curing before clearcoat

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/028.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/027-1.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/026.jpg

The mosler didnt turn out well since i had to strip, restart and I still wound up with paint bleed. I'm happiest with the Audi....

See them all on Sunday, Sunday, Sunday!!!!!!!!!

Felix2010
2012.11.12, 10:28 PM
Cool thread cowboysir... If we were going by these two traits alone:

"1. I am a natural born tinkerer...even if the model/chassis works fine I'm always one to try something different";

"2. I am an epic procrastinator! I've had some great ideas in my head for years....sooner or later I'll try them out";

---> I would def be your long-lost brother from another mother, lol:D

And you said, "Got a good idea on how to do up the shower stall so it might come together tomorrow.

I'll post some pics."

That's sweet man! I'd like to see this shower setup for paint work. I think it's a good idea, Please post pics if you can... I've got a single-stall shower I'ma be replacing soon (bathroom remodel coming up next year maybe), So it won't be too bad if I get the shower a little dirty:):eek::D

Custom painting is fun, ain't it?

cowboysir
2012.11.13, 03:23 PM
I'd have to say the painting I've been doing has been really satisfying...gives my artistic side liscence to excel.

Now that I've gotten paid I can justify my "paint booth" construct. Over the next couple weeks ill get it together and then ill be free to exercise my lexan painting muscles.

Just signed up at cfxpaintworks.com to learn the basics of layering. Lots of the guys there are members at RCTech and they have mad skill.

RFick73
2012.11.13, 06:05 PM
Looking good cowboy!

I can't wait to see them on Sunday!

DaveW
2012.11.14, 09:43 PM
I'm impressed!

Looking forward to seeing them!

herman
2012.11.21, 02:14 AM
any updates to the cars? :D

cowboysir
2012.11.21, 12:24 PM
I guess you missed the part about me being a procrastinator....:D

I seem to have misplaced my sheet of Repsol decals. Once I figure out where they are I'd get some progress.

cowboysir
2012.12.04, 06:16 PM
Well it seems my Repsol sheet has disappeared. Kind of puts a damper on my progress for my "Team Repsol" bodies.

Onto other projects:

1.I have a cool idea for a MR-FWD...just have to wrap my head around a few details after the 9th December GTG.

2. If my FWD concept works I may have a cool way to make a neat 1/24 RWD model conversion.

3. I will be building an F1 for RFick in the near future.

4. Working on ordering some top secret stuff from Australia to achieve a long standing goal of mine in Mini-Z'ing.

5. Just finished fabricating my own CFRP and going to start practicing chassis creation with my Dremel Drill Press attachment.

Lots of stuff to keep me out of trouble this winter.

cowboysir
2013.01.28, 01:02 PM
amusing little update:

For a couple years now i've been searching off and on (mostly off0 for a way to convert my unused Losi micro BL system (8750kv) from the silly 1.5mm shaft to a 2.0mm shaft to be able to make Mini-z pinions fit.

Anyhow, I bought myself an HPI RS32 (fun little car btw) and went searching for fun 32nd scale bodies to mount on it.

lo and Behold i found a canadian slot car website and decided on a couple sets of tires and a body (Nissan R390) and while flipping through the rest of the pages....

I found the stainless steel tubing I've always neeeded to make a 1.5mm shaft 2.0mm!

Please add my own BL mini-z project to the list...:rolleyes:

gctkaz
2013.01.28, 01:49 PM
That's cool and I kind of thought about it also, but I thought an easier solution would be to just find some other brushless motor with a 2mm shaft. They will probably also come in a lower kV too, since IMO the Losi brushless system is ridiculously fast. Last meet I brought my brushless uSCT with Atomic micro-T A.W. tires and I couldn't control it.

Think this motor would fit on the mini-Z?
EMP BS2030 4300KV (http://www.*******om/itm/EMP-BS2030-KV4300-Inrunner-Brushless-50G-280W-shaft-2mm-Motor-for-RC-Boat-Car-/121000602846?pt=US_Character_Radio_Control_Toys&hash=item1c2c32acde)

edit: eBay link is filtered. Go on eBay and search for 2mm brushless motor, this one comes up.

cowboysir
2013.01.28, 02:24 PM
link doesnt work for me...

You did have it at 7.4 volt which was part of the controllability issue.

I see myself doing a 1/32 pan car at 3.7volt and a couple different mini-z projects at 4.8 volts...it'll still be a pretty high rpm rate for this scale but I'll dial it a bit at the TX.

:D

I do have a nice 1/28th scale BL I plan to use in my SCT with a Mamba esc...its about the size of a 130 motor but rounder and heavier...it wouldnt work for my smaller projects

TheSteve
2013.01.28, 03:25 PM
My mamba25 fits nicely in my mrcg, I've never fired it up with a brushless motor though.
A nice lipo/brushless setup would be fun - finding a good car controller that runs on a single LiPo cell could be a challenge.

gctkaz
2013.01.28, 04:15 PM
Yeah but that's a MRCG. Sky's the limit with those, right? Kind of?

The eBay link to the motor got filtered. Just search for 2mm brushless motor on eBay and that one will come up.

Here's another project for you, Derek. Try finding a faster servo that fits the RS32 dimensions, because the SH-34 is way too slow and has tons of torque instead of the other way around. The Losi micro 3-wire servo looks like a good fit, but uses an hex spline. Possibility of gear swap?

Also, a drop-in coreless motor for the RS32 would be nice too. Battery life should also improve as a nice side-effect.

Finally - have you ever disassembled the 2.4GHz radio that comes with the Losi micro? There is something that looks like a kind of daughterboard doubleside-taped to the main PCB, connected by only 3 contacts. Is there any chance this thing could be removed and turned into a Spektrum module? Would be really interesting if it turns out the inputs are serialized on the mainboard and the daughterboard handles the radio communications.

cowboysir
2013.01.28, 07:10 PM
I'd suggest talking to TheSteve about your radio questions. He might have an idea...

The motor that goes in the rs32 seems to be the same size as Losi's micro t motors. That's my first choice for brushed setups for the 32.

The Losi micro BL looks like a direct swap as well but will require a redesign of the electronics layout.

We'll see how it goes...looks like ill be able to finish Ryan's F1. Shapeways stuff arrived today!

gctkaz
2013.01.29, 11:33 PM
Here's another project for you, Derek. Try finding a faster servo that fits the RS32 dimensions, because the SH-34 is way too slow and has tons of torque instead of the other way around. The Losi micro 3-wire servo looks like a good fit, but uses an hex spline. Possibility of gear swap?
Sorry to hijack your thread, Derek. I am working on this one.
Today I picked up an Hitec HS-55 from Martin at Golden Horizons. After cutting the side tabs off, it dropped right in, almost a perfect fit. The RS32 servo horn also fits the HS-55 spline perfectly, so it's *almost* the best I could hope for. I had desolder the cable from the SH-34 and transplant it into the HS-55, but all in all it's a great fit. I think the SH-34 cable uses a JST-SH (1.0mm pitch) connector, so maybe I can try picking up some bits so I don't need to render any servo completely useless.

The HS-55 is noticeably faster than the SH-34 so I don't oversteer coming out of turns so much, and I don't need to 'predict' the turn entry quite so much. Still, at 0.17s/60deg@4.8V, it's slower than what we're used to with Mini-Z, and compared to a Corona DS-919MG which I have on hand at 0.07s, I would still like to get this a bit faster. Unfortunately the DS-919MG is too large to fit, otherwise the specs are totally sweet.

I might go back to GH tomorrow and get an Hitec HS-56HB or HS-5056MG which are roughly the same size but almost 30% faster and give it another try.

edit: maybe I will stick to the HS-55, the operating current draw is much lower than the HS-56HB although the data source is not official. This car's battery is so tiny that I can't really spare any extra energy expenditure.

cowboysir
2013.01.30, 02:12 AM
do you happen to know how the hs-5055mg compares to the other servos you list? I have one of those sitting around...i had thought it'd make a nice servo for this application but i'm wary of cutting the case.

i think I'll be ok for draw rate because i'm hoping the body i have coming will give me a tiny enough wheelbase change to fit some losi li-po's i have (or a reconfigured 4.8volt Losi pack) I don't expect to get more than 5 minutes from it.

BTW, I don't mind this chat here, geoff. It's fun to hear like minded modding in this racer world we hang around in.

As a sidenote, I am almost finished the fab work for a rear wing holder for Ryan's F1. I'll test durability this weekend to see if it'll hold up to the driving in our club.:D (means i park it and hit it with another car from the rear, right dave?):D

gctkaz
2013.01.30, 02:32 AM
The HS-5055MG is basically a digital, metal geared HS-55, and likewise for HS-56HB vs HS-5056MG. Same speed, same dimensions, a little bit more torque and weight, and I guess a lot more durability.

The casing for yours looks the same as mine, so real easy to cut, just push hard with an X-acto a few times, maybe cut out a few wedges to give yourself more space as you go down. It will be an improvement over the SH-34 for sure, but maybe the lack of servo speed hasn't bothered you as much as it did for me.

The reason I didn't list the 5055 initially is simply due to it having the same speed as the 55 and I already bought the 55 to test the water, but it should be a decent upgrade. If you want to hold off on cutting your case, I might get the (50)56 after all, and if I like it then I can let you have this 55 which is already cut, although I accidentally cut too far so there is a hole in the side which I covered with Scotch tape. You'll have to supply your own cable though. It will just give you an idea of what the performance will be, you can either keep it in there or drop in your 5055.

One thing I noticed is that on Hitec's website, it lists the (50)55 both as having a coreless motor, but on the box I got and from the looks of the servo itself, it's just a plain old 3-pole ferrite motor. I wanted to stick with the 55 while I was still under the false impression it was coreless, but now I can go ahead to try the (50)56.

edit: Sorry to say I won't have an HS-55 for you since I am keeping it. The HS-56HB has a different case profile and spline size so it won't fit in the RS-32. I posted a servo comparison video in the RS32 thread but I'll copy it here in case you can't find it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8FpSmG9G9U
If you like what you see then you might as well just get right on your HS-5055MG.

gctkaz
2013.02.03, 01:50 PM
Finally - have you ever disassembled the 2.4GHz radio that comes with the Losi micro? There is something that looks like a kind of daughterboard doubleside-taped to the main PCB, connected by only 3 contacts. Is there any chance this thing could be removed and turned into a Spektrum module? Would be really interesting if it turns out the inputs are serialized on the mainboard and the daughterboard handles the radio communications.
I am looking into this now. It seems that at its heart, the stock Losi (both 2.4GHz and AM) radio is indeed kind of module-based, so I went ahead and made an adapter to plug the Losi 2.4GHz daughterboard into my EX-1UR. In my excitement what I neglected to do was to check the voltage on both ends, I just assumed it would be 5V on both radios. Wrong :( and I could smell it within moments of powering on the EX-1.

I think the EX-1 gives the module whatever voltage the batteries have, while it appears that the Losi radio supplies regulated 3.3V. The adapter for converting a Losi daughterboard to a module then would need a regulator to drop the supplied voltage down to 3.3V. Unfortunately my work on this is stalled since my Losi board is now cooked. Derek I know you have one of these, so let me know if you don't need it and if I can buy it from you.

If this thing works in the end, what would be the most exciting is if a similar thing can be done with the low-end DX2E/DX3E to make a DSM2-compatible module since Spektrum never released one officially.

I also had a look inside the HPI TF-21 radio, and it looks like turning that into a module will be a hopeless endeavour since all input and radio processing are done on a single small board. We are stuck with the TF-21 for running our RS32 :(

edit: The module pulled from the Losi radio is Horizon Hobby part# X10EMTX. Apparently people are even installing them as modules into helicopter radios and having control of 6 channels. Also a pull-up resistor might be needed, but I can't test this until I get another board.

cowboysir
2013.02.03, 02:24 PM
I never wound up getting a DSM Losi TX with the purchase of my micro Crawler...Landon gave me a break and parted it out since he had a buyer it was no biggy. Unless the AM radio helps I'm afraid you are out of luck.

As for using the HPI, I have a couple other options including the micro crawler board so I can plug in a servo without swapping wires. My project will start in earnest once my stuff arrives from slot car corner.

gctkaz
2013.02.03, 02:36 PM
Ah no worries. I have a DX3C and a proper DSM module for EX-1, this was just a little project done out of curiosity.

I'll be interested to see what you can do about the RS32. I got an AE XPS ESC, but it has no integrated receiver - which can be good or bad I suppose. I considered the MRX-3100 you have as well, but space will be so limited inside that little car.

I know you asked about motor limits for the MRX-3100 a while back. It should be possible to stack the FETs in those micro ESCs the same way we do for Mini-Z, shouldn't it?

cowboysir
2013.02.03, 05:27 PM
The stock mrx-3100 has about the same power as a mini-z am board and fets are very similar so can be swapped with standard replacement 4562 and the like.

Space requirements for my 1/32nd project might change a bit once the new body comes and I build a chassis for it...we will see.

cowboysir
2013.03.08, 02:37 PM
while I mull over some interesting chassis projects i threw this together over the past couple days.

I got an Audi R8 GT1 body from my friend Landon but it had a serious hack to the front end and the front splitter was pretty much destroyed. I decided this body would be my new shell for the summer race season and I would have to repair it before making it look like the Phoenix Racing 12hr of Bathurst winner.

I used four layers of frp to rebuild it step by step allowing the epoxy to cure overnight each stage:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/020-1_zps87ce0994.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/021-1_zps7482ae92.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/022-1_zpsa7af29a5.jpg

The finished product all ground down nice and neat....next step is to clean, remove some green highlights and prep for paint.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/003-8_zpsfe699896.jpg

This will hopefully be the end result of my efforts:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/oneighturbo-Audi-Phoenix-R8-LMS-Bathurst-022312-6447_zpsed94a532.jpg

cowboysir
2013.03.18, 07:34 PM
some of the cars that are on for Cowboy's project list. I have the 911GT1 body and the Supra and the whitebody 458 and decals are on order...

:D

This should make my race cars pretty unique in our club.

(ps.FYI I'm becoming a HUGE fan of Patto's Place...their decal selection is unparalleled)

cowboysir
2013.03.19, 03:59 PM
I've also started the paint mixing for this bad boy....should make a unique F1 (although the body isn't quite the same)

I should be done all of these...........eventually:D

lfisminiz
2013.03.19, 04:15 PM
All good ideas. Looking forward to seeing them.

cowboysir
2013.04.13, 05:54 PM
WIP.....

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/003-8_zpse46d208e.jpg

cowboysir
2013.04.14, 04:58 PM
After a tedious amount of decal application the Supra is almost done with just the rear wing to finish. It also turns out I've misplaced my light cover package for this whitebody so I'm a bit choked ATM.

I've almost finished the paint on the Marlboro 911 gt1 but I butchered some of the hand paint black work. Once it cures ill figure a way of neatening it and then onto decals.

Still need to complete the rear wing of the Arrows A23 F1....

I hope my b-day present to myself arrives in time to start a couple more unique paint/decal jobs.

color01
2013.04.14, 11:03 PM
Give that Supra a nice coat of Future before you hang it up -- it's gonna look so good when the decal lines are hidden. :)

DaveW
2013.04.15, 01:33 AM
Dude, that's lookin' sweet.
Bring her for show and tell if you make it Sunday.

cowboysir
2013.04.15, 11:03 AM
This is my new GT2 body...you'll see it in action on Sunday!

cowboysir
2013.05.11, 10:53 AM
Got another round of decals in...I think I can get my custom Fiat done in time for the next meet.

Unfortunately it won't be on a high mount pod like Grant and Steve but 90mm super narrow will still be wicked hard to drive as is. I hope it's still acceptable to our duo of stupid fast drivers.

I have some others in queue but they'll have to wait for me to source some paint.

TheSteve
2013.05.12, 01:58 AM
tsk tsk, no 4 dollar high mount?

cowboysir
2013.05.12, 09:31 AM
If I had one in my stockpile hoard I'd use it but unfortunately thats the only thing i seem to be missing from my years of throwing stock parts into my bin.:D

90mm narrow will be difficult enough for me...with a 70turn and the right gearing i should get within 1.5sec a lap of your times.:p

TheSteve
2013.05.13, 02:24 AM
shhhh, don't tell anyone but our Abarth's are the quite possibly our easiest cars to drive.

cowboysir
2013.05.14, 01:52 PM
I doubt that ill find it as easy as you guys...

The Alitalia Abarth shell is shaping up. Detail paint in progress and decals are halfway there. Pretty interesting taking a decal set meant for a wedge Lancia and putting it to work on a fat round Fiat....:D

cowboysir
2013.06.08, 06:58 PM
Fired off a quick little project that had been nagging at me:

I converted my 1/10th scale brushed motor tester/charger into a 1/28th scale motor tester. With judicious use of xmod and MRCg parts plus a piece of CF laminate I had laying around i was able to make a motor holder and mount the sensor array together in a neat(ish) package.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/005-6_zpsd2df6e64.jpg

Works pretty well as long as I don't have fat or round can motors. ;)

cowboysir
2013.06.18, 09:29 AM
Found a site that has different decal sets than Pattos and I found some glue and interesting paint to try. I really hope they work out because if they do ill be able to reproduce a couple classic mini Z's that I've always wanted.

Stay tuned!

cowboysir
2013.10.14, 03:31 PM
A tough go painting bak Choi's Lexus has led to the toughest decal set I've ever tried applying...fingers crossed I can get all this sh...stuff done for Sunday.

Stay tuned in my gallery for final pics (I hope)!

cowboysir
2013.10.30, 11:47 AM
I'm convinced that Bak Choi's Lexus job was cursed...got 4 different bodies on the go and all running smoothly.

1. 458 eset racing
2. H.I.S SuperGT GTR500
3. 03 Gzox NSX
4. Jacadi McLaren F1 GTR.

If we have a gtg on the 10th I should have a couple completed. :D

TheSteve
2013.10.30, 12:40 PM
I'm convinced that Bak Choi's Lexus job was cursed...got 4 different bodies on the go and all running smoothly.

1. 458 eset racing
2. H.I.S SuperGT GTR500
3. 03 Gzox NSX
4. Jacadi McLaren F1 GTR.

If we have a gtg on the 10th I should have a couple completed. :D

Forget those, we need more R8 cars with spiders on them!

cowboysir
2013.10.30, 02:37 PM
You make my finishes feel insignificant with your affection for that Audi. Two of these latest works are going to be awesome (I hope) because I got inspired and did some paint mixing that came out awesome (IMO). Instead of fighting to make color decal patches fit I nailed the paint scheme....:D

Gotta appreciate each one for its own character, Steve

Btw, you still have any 458's?

TheSteve
2013.10.30, 04:15 PM
You make my finishes feel insignificant with your affection for that Audi. Two of these latest works are going to be awesome (I hope) because I got inspired and did some paint mixing that came out awesome (IMO). Instead of fighting to make color decal patches fit I nailed the paint scheme....:D

Gotta appreciate each one for its own character, Steve

Btw, you still have any 458's?

Hah, I love them all, you know it. The time and attention to detail is so freaking impressive. I just have a special place in my heart for that R8.
Nobody looks at my F1 car without commenting on it, into RC or not, they are all very impressed.
I have no 458s left, only bought a red one and Colin has it now. It looked great but again, the R8 is where its at for me.

cowboysir
2013.11.24, 04:50 PM
Got 2 bodies drying in clearcoat stage and a third getting some finishing chrome on the roof...

SuperGT bodies are my nemesis. Not only is it difficult to get the chrome roof to look accurate most Tamiya decal sets that come for these have multi piece decals to fit the crazy shapes on the hoods. The SuperGT GTR hood decal to be shown soon had a 16 piece hood decal...:eek:

Anyhow...stay tuned to my body gallery.;)

cowboysir
2014.04.02, 06:28 PM
A quick update:

I found a place in Vancouver that sells allclad paints! It's the company that I use for the chrome for my SuperGT roofs and I like the finish so I'm off tomorrow to pick up a couple different colored chromes to do variations on the bodies I have planned.

Shiny race bodies to come!

xmodcanuck
2014.04.02, 07:38 PM
Shiny race bodies to come!

I want a chrome blue subaru and a chrome red ferrari and a chrome orange lexus and a rainbow chrome audi and a...and a....and a.... oh crap, the list will never end.

TheSteve
2014.04.02, 07:55 PM
I want a chrome R8, oh wait, I already have one.

Can't wait to see the newest bodies, they continue to get better and fancier Derek!

cowboysir
2014.04.02, 08:13 PM
I want a chrome blue subaru and a chrome red ferrari and a chrome orange lexus and a rainbow chrome audi and a...and a....and a.... oh crap, the list will never end.

I want a chrome R8, oh wait, I already have one.

Can't wait to see the newest bodies, they continue to get better and fancier Derek!

Ill do my best to make some shiny stuff for you guys...anything to distract you so I can beat you to the finish line.

cowboysir
2014.04.03, 09:19 PM
So I picked up:

Gold to green color shift
Copper red to green color shift
Candy orange
Candy ruby red
Candy golden yellow
Candy emerald green
2 bright silver
Clearcoat.

Should make for some neat looking mini Z's. :D

EMU
2014.04.03, 10:48 PM
Just checked out this thread. Cowboy, the attention to detail is amazing. I really don't have the patience to dress up my bodies the way you have. A+ work! I will keep my eye on this thread to see what you do next ;)

I would be interested in seeing how the Candy colors look on the Mini-Z bodies...

cowboysir
2014.04.03, 11:04 PM
Thanks Emu. This is certainly one aspect of mini-z that is very satisfying to me.

I've got some good ideas for the candy colors due to some of the upcoming requests for some club members. I hope they come out nicely....

cowboysir
2014.04.05, 06:26 PM
Did a bit of test spray with a spare body and found out the color shift paint is very interesting yet a bit on the dark side since the directions call for it to be laid over gloss black....we'll see what variations I can swing from there.

The Candy enamel is wicked...I test sprayed ruby red and its super shiny over the base silver.:D

DaveW
2014.04.11, 12:29 AM
Did a bit of test spray with a spare body and found out the color shift paint is very interesting yet a bit on the dark side since the directions call for it to be laid over gloss black....we'll see what variations I can swing from there.

The Candy enamel is wicked...I test sprayed ruby red and its super shiny over the base silver.:D

I'm hoping you'll bring some samples on Sunday, on a body or other media so we can see how they look.
I'm interested in both the Candy and the colour shift, as other's are, I'm sure.

Great work!

cowboysir
2014.04.11, 11:35 AM
Great idea dave...I'll be sure to remember to pack the test swatches. xmodcanuck has seen some via text and he and i have discussed some ideas back and forth.

cowboysir
2014.04.18, 12:49 PM
So I didnt receive my order of bodies before the holiday weekend so i wont be doing any of my own one-offs anytime soon.:mad: With 2 458's and 3 of the new 430sc's coming I'm impatient to get rolling on my customs.

edit: one sc430 wont be a one off since Kyosho has released it in Autoscale but it will be my creation.

I'll be starting 2 of the 3 client finishes today.;) Stay tuned Dave and Ryan....Mario will have to wait a bit longer.

cowboysir
2014.05.07, 09:28 PM
Finally got my white bodies....6 weeks later. :mad:

I really hope the SC 430 body is a performer because it's shape is very sweet. :D

lfisminiz
2014.05.07, 09:31 PM
Finally got my white bodies....6 weeks later. :mad:

I really hope the SC 430 body is a performer because it's shape is very sweet. :D

I agree...looks great. :)

cowboysir
2014.05.21, 09:34 PM
2 x W.I.P:

A variation on the Pennzoil Nissan GTR (re creating the 98 winner on a 2010 shell)

decals and clearcoat to do:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/030_zps7752ab25.jpg

I wanted to race one of my new Lexus 98mm shell this weekend but I didnt have time to finish a livery and I didnt want to leave it white. My goal with this was to come close to recreating an iridium ski goggle lens on a mini-z...pretty good for a freehand attempt. i hope its super shiny finish is distracting....:D

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/034_zps91d7192b.jpg

cowboysir
2014.08.06, 11:17 PM
I'm happy to report that because a massive level of effort on my part I will have 2 new Ferrari 458 for my fleet and was able to finish Ryan's GTR, Mario's shiny 458 and the last of 5 green Audi for Steve. What a workload for 6 days!?!

My gallery page will get updated once clear gets done. Stay tuned

herman
2014.08.07, 05:33 AM
Pics pics... or a link to your gallery perhaps?

cowboysir
2014.08.07, 01:17 PM
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=452038#post452038

I should all 5 bodies clear coated by Saturday morning. TheSteve will post a photo of all 5 Android Green Audi once he gets them all assembled so I will post the 3 "one-off" race bodies by then.

cowboysir
2014.08.31, 09:43 PM
something I had been meaning to do and use it until ed gets to finalize designs on a few of his UID shapeways products (if you read this please get going on the F1 body holder):D

copied my Mantisworx front wing and widened it for the 2010 and onwards wing configuration. Made my own CFRP laminate and found a couple pieces of delrin for the ends...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/009_zps141ac5d4.jpg

RFick73
2014.08.31, 10:44 PM
That looks pretty good Cowboy!

cowboysir
2014.11.13, 07:39 PM
:D:DFigured I'd post the details of my new mod build as it happens:

1. PN brushless V2 arrived early this week.
2. Just finished wiring in my new VE board into a chassis.
3. i will be picking up my Shapeways sub-chassis tomorrow...thats when the detail and pics will commence for interested parties.

stay tuned for the fun stuff

lfisminiz
2014.11.13, 08:37 PM
Sounds good. Started working on mine.

cowboysir
2014.11.15, 02:49 PM
so now that i have the Shapeways sub chassis in my hot little hands I have come to realize I will have either delay the build or strip parts from one car to complete this build and then rebuild that car at a later date...

I attempted to do a little ghetto hack and slash to a stock plastic lower plate to get the stock front end i want but it requires a bit more plastic removal that i'm comforatble with. It also would require some trimming of the Shapeways sub chassis that would be permanent and if i decide i want a different front (which is likely for me :D) I would then be screwed.

I believe I will be trimming the front clip/nose protector off and working with either a RR front end or a PN front end...in the end I'm not set on a body for it (although the 458 is my favorite ATM) and I think some sort of alloy lower tower and low profile kingpin/spring setup will be my ideal front end.

Deciding on which one is the hard part...


On the topic of the sub chassis itself, I would like to report a few key bits of info:

1. As far as i've examined (fitment checks) I have to say the Shapeways printing is very nicely done. I've purchased a couple other items from them for Mini-Z F1 and this is on par with the quality of previous printed items.

2. I made a close examination of the rear pod for the ability to make a brushed motor application out of the v6 version. I believe it can be done with a few key modification and motor choices.

a. First off the motor mount itself is two plates mounted on the front and back of the motor and then you can adjust for gear mesh with a camming type of positioning. The front mount plate would require a bit of drilling/reaming of the center hole due to the diameter size of the brushed can bearing holder is bigger than the brushless. It would have to be done very carefully due to the nature/shape of the mount so as to not affect the camming function of the plate

b. Secondly I believe you could use round can brushed motor with no modification to the floor of the chassis but you would likely be required to trim some floor to allow standard cans to be used. Of the two brushed versions I would 100% go with a round can to acheive the same relative CG as a PN brushless motor for a standard can would be mounted on an angle due to the end plates camming effect.

Feel free to ask any other questions...I'll be continuing the build and i hope to decide this week on which front end will get the nod. ;)

ianc
2014.11.16, 10:56 PM
Thanks for the update Cowboy. Remember, a picture is worth a thousand words... ;-)

ianc

TheSteve
2014.11.17, 02:24 PM
Your driver is ready to put the new car through its paces and set a blistering fast record lap time.

cowboysir
2014.11.17, 06:09 PM
I believe it will be ready for the next GTG.

Not wanting to cut apart the Shapeways sub chassis yet, I have come up with a solution for the front end. I tried a variety of dremel techniques the other day and had some cool failures but this afternoon i had a bit of a mental breakthrough and figured out a simple solution.

I took my dremel drill press attachement, set it to a conducive height and used it somewhat like an upside down router.

I routered out some plastic from the inside of a stock Kyosho front kingpin holder, trimmed off the unusable parts and then layered it over the S.S.C (the acronym for Shapeways Sub Chassis). I think it'll leave enough material to function with any stock front end i choose (I'll be starting with RR long kingpin design)

Once I get my computer to start talking to my iphone again I'll post some pics. It's been close to 9 months since Ive updated my phone and it wants to send my iTunes page into a death spiral ATM.:D

JesseT
2014.11.18, 06:02 AM
Just found this thread...

I actually just made some small modifications to the v6 design itself and and also made a separate three pairs of cam plates. With these three sets of cam plates, I believe a standard PN can motor can also be fitted. Because the motor has two flats, and it is mounted flat, you can only rotate it roughly +/- 10 degrees before it starts to protude from the bottom. If htat is the case, then you go for the next set of cams.
Once I get my prototype parts tried and tested, I will see which spur/pinion combos can be supported.
I can also release for you the version of the subchassis with the provision for the standard front if you wish, with a small "prototype" disclaimer. I know quite certain that it will work, only small risks, like the lower arm ball space may need to be reamed out for perfect fitment. Let me know with a PM if you are interested.

cowboysir
2014.11.18, 11:23 AM
Thanks for the updates on your chassis JesseT...I know there are members out there who (like me) would more than likely try this sub chassis if it didnt require an outlay to move to BL and A-Arm front end.

I will keep an eye out for your revised cam motor plates for I'm unsure of my VE interest. I had a VE in the past and could not get used to the delay between throttle directions. I'm hoping with TheSteve's help i can get more accustomed to it.

As for your updated "stock" front end I don't think I'll need to make another full sub chassis purchase. I believe i will be switching to a suitable front for my driving style. Whether it be the PN alloy lower kingpin mount or the RR lower kingpin mount remains to be seen but for now this is the front end I will try:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/044_zps82832afd.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/043_zps8ddc90ef.jpg

With some experimentation, I surmised that the material between the actual kingpin mounts could be thinned on the inside to cover your sub chassis and with some minor trimming make it fit over top with no issue right to the exact position required compared to a Kyosho front. I am very happy setting ride height with shims below the knuckle so I think I can find a happy medium with this front...as it stands my best handling chassis is a 90mm narrow hatchback that has this exact front end setup so I'm hoping i can reproduce the same level of front end bite.

Looking forward to working on the gimbal pin for the rear.

If you happen to read this update, I'm curious to ask about the printed "T-Plate" void on the motor pod...was the intention that the void/t-plate mount area is for reinforcing the gimbal pin?

Another quick question: do you happen to notice any flex interference from your battery clips? Since mine isn't up and running i can't say if this is a thing but i notice during "hand twist test" that the clips rub against the printed side plates. I imagine that once the tri shock is in place flex will be limited, correct?

cowboysir
2014.11.18, 11:31 AM
btw here's a good laugh for all who are following:

The size difference between 1/5th BL and 1/28th BL
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/030_zps3749dcee.jpg

based on voltage input these have the same RPM rating.
:eek:

JesseT
2014.11.18, 03:22 PM
The place for the T-plate was originally a back-up plan if the pivot pin didn't prove to be reliavle. I've never tried it tough. I'm not a huge fan of T-plates as they have an inherent issue with an undampened suspension mode.

The battery clips can touch a little at large movements, but you never see more than +/-1mm at side dampers. That's also why the normal ~0.4mm of play in a disc damper plate is so detrimental.

ianc
2014.11.18, 07:31 PM
Thanks for the pics Cowboy, now I see what you're doing. I kind of had the idea it was something similar, but it's tough to puzzle it out unless you've got the pieces in front of you.

Didn't quite understand this comment Jesse:

That's also why the normal ~0.4mm of play in a disc damper plate is so detrimental.

You mean side-to-side play as the rear suspension rotates axially about the centerline of the car?

ianc

cowboysir
2014.11.19, 11:12 AM
Got the gimbal pin finished last night.

I'm hoping I got it right as it has maybe 1mm of flex upwards. With that little movement I don't see much point in having a center shock spring instead of just making a tube damper.

cowboysir
2014.11.20, 08:27 PM
Everything is coming together nicely...

Some things I've learned in the process of this build:

1. Stick with the VE board wires to solder your PN motor in place. I tried the PN wire you can buy and it really can affect the motor pod tweak. Once in place it seems stiffer than the Kyosho wire so to avoid flex tweak issues so with the softer Kyosho wire.

2. I'll need to change my 64p spur. I have a 51 tooth RR spur and I can't get enough cam action out of the motor to get a nice mesh with a small pinion. My own stupid fault so FYI make sure you have some standard sizes of 64p to work with.

Stay tuned for more observations and final assembly pics. I figured out some body trimming is required if you want to use the full pod/diffuser of the 458 version.

JesseT
2014.11.21, 01:10 AM
Got the gimbal pin finished last night.

I'm hoping I got it right as it has maybe 1mm of flex upwards. With that little movement I don't see much point in having a center shock spring instead of just making a tube damper.

By flex upwards, by you mean rear suspension rotation so that the center shock compresses? It should be more or less be limited by the round opening for the center damper post, so about as much movement as the center damper gives. And without the center springs, it should be very free. So that if you place the car on the floor without the center spring, it would certainly just bottom out and have no weight on the wheels.

Is the travel limited by something, or is it binding somewhere? Is the center pivot pin adjustment ok? Not too protruding? and are the pin diameter and the pin hole diameter more or less matched, so that it doesn't bind?

quazster
2014.11.21, 04:46 AM
I will keep an eye out for your revised cam motor plates for I'm unsure of my VE interest. I had a VE in the past and could not get used to the delay between throttle directions. I'm hoping with TheSteve's help i can get more accustomed to it.

This is something you can change via ICS. The "baktim" value controls the delay between forward and reverse. Standard value IIRC is 3. Change this to 1 and bang, the delay between directions is gone for good. While you are at it also change the ST.GAIN to "Strong" this totally transforms the servo, gone is the sluggish and inaccurate feel. I would say these two ICS settings are must if you are serious about racing.


Quote:
That's also why the normal ~0.4mm of play in a disc damper plate is so detrimental.
You mean side-to-side play as the rear suspension rotates axially about the centerline of the car?

ianc


The play between disc damper disc center hole and motor pod damper shaft, so the play is in all directions. There are remedies for this but it is really hard to get zero play and near-zero friction in this joint.

cowboysir
2014.11.21, 10:37 AM
By flex upwards, by you mean rear suspension rotation so that the center shock compresses? It should be more or less be limited by the round opening for the center damper post, so about as much movement as the center damper gives. And without the center springs, it should be very free. So that if you place the car on the floor without the center spring, it would certainly just bottom out and have no weight on the wheels.

Is the travel limited by something, or is it binding somewhere? Is the center pivot pin adjustment ok? Not too protruding? and are the pin diameter and the pin hole diameter more or less matched, so that it doesn't bind?

I did go back and do a bit more polishing to remove a bit of stiction/binding. The fitment on test pivoting made it stay in its travel position so a bit more polishing and it now travels and returns without binding.

I also wound up with a bit more center shock travel/compression with polishing.

Today should be the final adjustments for rear axle height and body fitment. i found that the rear bolt on bumper of the 458 really hinders fitment of the rear motor pod diffuser so some trimming/glueing will be needed. I also on initial build mounted the diff at it's lowest (highest?) axle position and now the wheels rub the body due to the side clip mounting I've done.

Fun lessons to be learned on the MR-SSC!

cowboysir
2014.11.21, 02:59 PM
some more lessons learned:

1. After the wheels have been mounted i find that the rear has got a very low positoning even at the highest possible axle placement. This solidifies my choice for a front suspension (Reflex Racing low profile kingpin holder and suspension) and has given me quite a bit more body modifications to make sure the rear wheels don't rub the wells under load.

I have shimmed my existing front end to use it this coming race day just becasue i don't want to tear apart another chassis to rebuild the MR-SSC front until i get all new parts in the mail.

cowboysir
2014.11.21, 08:47 PM
1. Making the 458 fit on an MR-SSC:

a. the inner side bumps that make the "side aero" of the 458 could use some grinding. It's not that they interfere with the side plates of the SSC so much as grinding out a bit of plastic ensures that you get a consitent flex of the plates

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/002_zps216827e8.jpg

b. because of the extreme low CG of the SSC rear end the 458 body requires some serious rear end shaving, grinding and thinning. To avoid having it drag you need to cut off the "rear diffuser" of the body (I knows it looks "hacked" and i will likely clean it up to look "professional":D):

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/003_zps07d9613e.jpg

c. To allow fitment of the SSC motor pod/diffuser you need to grind/shape the inner bumper mounting posts a bit:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/005_zps0a4e8a08.jpg

It also seems to be a good idea to thin the material on the inside of the wheel well so it won't "trap" the wheel under hard cornering:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/007_zps3471e82b.jpg

How's that for a low CG? I have had to shim close to 1.6mm under the front knuckle to get a somewhat level chassis so using the RR front kingpin holder (which is 1.5mm lower than "stock") will get me the front knuckle height and then i will have a better opportunity to adjust for roll stiffness, camber and caster. Because I will have to cut off the front clip/diffuser off the SSC to install the RR parts I will have the opportunity to test other bodies with it at a later date...I have a huge selection of 98mm white bodies to choose from.;)

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/006_zps4632b1c7.jpg

I will hopefully be able to report it's initial drive characteristics next Sunday (weather permitting) but bench test suspension compression has shown that it's impossible to hike a rear wheel in the air!?!:eek: My guess is once i dial the side spring choice and tension/load them properly I could have the same level of mechanical grip that i have on my tri shock F1 (which drives pretty awesome).;)

Hope you enjoyed the MR-SSC build.;)

lfisminiz
2014.11.21, 09:36 PM
Thanks for the info/detail. Jesse is a big help with this. Ill be testing Sunday. :)

TheSteve
2014.11.22, 02:22 AM
Looks good, but the front and rear wheels don't match...

JesseT
2014.11.22, 07:36 AM
Ye, the 458 is the tightest of the supported bodies. The sides need some small grinding, and the rear corners need some sorting as well. I didn't notice that at first, beause all the 458 bodies at our club run either without the rear bumper, or the rear opened up upto 20mm from ground as per pnwc rules. Indeed if your 458 rear is box stock, it will interfere.

The car is extremely light, and especially at the rear. There can be even some 15g to be added to get to the 170g limit. Having the ability to choose the location of this weigth is what I like.

I have no idea which front / rear springs you are running, but remember that the stiffer you go at the rear, the stiffer you need to go also at the front to not get wheel lift off. Also the stiffer the car is, the heavier damping you need and the more precisely you must get the tweak adjustment right.

cowboysir
2014.11.22, 09:41 AM
Looks good, but the front and rear wheels don't match...

I have one car where the wheels match and it's because I painted them to look that way...otherwise I use what fits (offset wise) from my collection of wheels. I've never cared as long as I have grip.

I appreciate the advice on spring rates, JesseT...my driving style tends towards a med-stiff front with a rear that tends towards medium corner flex and stiff bump flex. I've started with trying to mimic the flex feel of my other cars and will tune from there. Because I run a tri shock F1 I'm pretty familiar with dialing the damper grease on the shock shafts and because of the cool pod design of the SSC it should be a breeze to adjust.

JesseT
2014.11.22, 12:09 PM
my driving style tends towards a med-stiff front with a rear that tends towards medium corner flex and stiff bump flex

Interesting. I haven't tried that for a long time. I typically tend to go the complete opposite way. Very stiff suspension sideways and very soft bump.
This seems like the way to keep the wheels always on the ground and still have a very sharply reactive car.

ianc
2014.11.22, 03:44 PM
Looking very good Cowboy! What side shocks and springs did you use? Any further pics from the rear? I think I have everything I need on order for mine now (finally).

Will be awating the driving test results...

ianc

cowboysir
2014.11.22, 03:46 PM
I'll be sure to try it your way, JesseT...when it comes to ability this chassis will likely find its pilot lacking so any help i can get is worthwhile.:D

My new project tonight will be another F1 nose protector.;)

cowboysir
2014.12.05, 06:49 PM
For those interested, I received my parts from RR to make a more refined version of my standard kingpin front end.

The good news is that the Reflex Racing "raised lower tower bar" for MR03 gives me an almost perfect ride height match with the rear end of the SSC without having to resort to shimming the knuckle. To that end i was able to install some short c-clip type kingpins and get a decent spring rate to start with.

I think I might be able to set up a track tomorrow and get some practice/testing with it...fooling with springs for both front and rear to hopefully get a good performing chassis.

ianc
2014.12.05, 06:51 PM
Hey, any race reports on this thing? My last parts are trickling in, so I've started work on my build. Mine has the separate side links, so it's been a bit of work to get them fitted properly, and I'm now starting to think about the pivot pin. I'll be starting a build thread soon when I have a little free time during the xmas holidays.

Cowboy, did you just drill a hole in the pod and stick a screw shaft in there, or did you actually try to thread it in the hole for a secure mounting?

Undecided how to go here...

lfisminiz
2014.12.05, 07:31 PM
For those interested, I received my parts from RR to make a more refined version of my standard kingpin front end.

The good news is that the Reflex Racing "raised lower tower bar" for MR03 gives me an almost perfect ride height match with the rear end of the SSC without having to resort to shimming the knuckle. To that end i was able to install some short c-clip type kingpins and get a decent spring rate to start with.

I think I might be able to set up a track tomorrow and get some practice/testing with it...fooling with springs for both front and rear to hopefully get a good performing chassis.

Pictures....;)

cowboysir
2014.12.05, 08:08 PM
Hey, any race reports on this thing? My last parts are trickling in, so I've started work on my build. Mine has the separate side links, so it's been a bit of work to get them fitted properly, and I'm now starting to think about the pivot pin. I'll be starting a build thread soon when I have a little free time during the xmas holidays.

Cowboy, did you just drill a hole in the pod and stick a screw shaft in there, or did you actually try to thread it in the hole for a secure mounting?

Undecided how to go here...

No race reports yet. I built it initially with an older pn 64 pitch spur and it wouldn't create enough grip in the diff (teeth were a bit worn) so I shelved it for a bit.

I useda grub screw for the gimbal pin. I screwed it in and then polished it in place.

The 458 is a really tight fit and it makes the sub chassis difficult to get out. I think that's how I've developed a tiny bit of play. I think that other bodies might make it easier/not get issues

cowboysir
2014.12.10, 09:45 AM
So i've had to shelve the SSC. After a number of minor set up issues and many tear down/rebuild the material of the motor pod holder would not hold the threads of the machine screws thereby not keeping the gear mesh. I will order a new small parts kit after xmas.

During testing and what probably amounted to 1000 laps I was able to geta good sense of its abilities and I have to report I'm pretty impressed. Once I followed JesseT's advice about spring rates and finally dial out the chassis tweak I got super straight line grip and epic on power cornering.

I do recommend that anyone that purchases this kit gets the build right the first time for I feel that my issues with having to rebuild numerous times was a contributing factor to the material stripping.

cowboysir
2015.04.28, 08:53 PM
Started a couple new bodies today. One for myself and one for Dave W.

I found the decal set for Ryans DS3 but need to figure out a couple for myself before I blow $20 on shipping for one set of decals from Australia

Stay tuned to here and my gallery page for the finished products. :D

cowboysir
2015.09.25, 09:42 AM
Well the project page is starting up again:

1.Got my decal sets in to get 6 more bodies going including Ryans ds3
2. Building a VE box stock setup with a LM pod and some mods required
3. Going to try another MR - SSC build....went ahead and got a new 102mm sub chassis and who try it with the V6 version of the AA arm mount. With the lessons learned from my first build I hope my LMP - SSC goes well.

lfisminiz
2015.09.25, 12:59 PM
Well the project page is starting up again:

1.Got my decal sets in to get 6 more bodies going including Ryans ds3
2. Building a VE box stock setup with a LM pod and some mods required
3. Going to try another MR - SSC build....went ahead and got a new 102mm sub chassis and who try it with the V6 version of the AA arm mount. With the lessons learned from my first build I hope my LMP - SSC goes well.

Looking forward to it.

cowboysir
2016.02.25, 08:32 PM
Finished Ryans body (see gallery) and did a non decal "metallic Italian flag" theme on a Lamborghini 670sv.

I have 2 new bodies at clear coat which in super pleased with. One finished the clear they'll be posted in my gallery.

Getting the black details done on a third body.

Started washing a Formula One body....this one is going to take a lot of work. No hints other than its a team from 2005.

Stay tuned.

cowboysir
2016.03.09, 01:16 PM
So I took stock of the bodies left in my "to do" box and was able to delete 5 that I feel I either don't care to do or don't really translate into real race cars.

That and my recent prolific finish rate has left me with 5 bodies left to do.

So obviously I went and bought some more bodies....can't run out after all.

The funny thing is I'm going to wind up with 5 custom F1 bodies for 2 chassis. Guess I need to shop for some thing to run them on.

Thorvald
2016.03.09, 07:00 PM
Forgot to ask, have you tried the Peel N Stick decals from Patto's place? I know they normally use waterslide.

Cheers
Tim

cowboysir
2016.03.09, 08:47 PM
I have not...i've had good success with the waterslide so "don't mess with a good thing' is my opinion.

The application method sounds good so i dont why they wouldnt be OK....just not my thing
;)

cowboysir
2016.07.16, 09:01 PM
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a258/CowboySiR/Mobile%20Uploads/20160714_174541_zpssxrowgdr.jpg

I've been trying to refine a Tri shock centering suspension idea I got from hrdrvr a while back. Instead of his method of using a broken T plate for mounting (which worked well) I've found some 90deg plastic so I can get a lower profile on the side shocks.

One of the mount holes on the side shocks is 0.25mm different from the other so I'm going to redo it but I think I'm onto a winner here....with some minor interior grinding I should be able to use this on all my newer style bodies.

lfisminiz
2016.07.16, 09:54 PM
I remeber i had fabricated one awhile ago. It ran well. Not sure why i didnt keep it on? I think i had to chop body up. maybe time to try again...:p