Geo-Z
2013.06.01, 04:33 PM
We run and sell both the 2wd and awd 2.4 versions of the current firelap at our club in Sydney. Having had some time to familiarise ourselves with both models I will attempt to list their most common problems/remedies below:
1. Iw02 2wd model (similar to Kyosho MR02):
-less customers come back with problems in these. They have a simpler design and thus get less affected and/or get fixed easily if something arises.
-despite being 2.4 the steering is quite laggy especially if you've been racing mini-z's all the time. I would place the 2.4 response as being similar to the old AM band on mini-z's and even then a tad slower. Power band on the throttle is less smooth.
-wheel rims are slightly smaller (0.5-1mm) than mini-z wheels. It is hardly noticeable though. The bearings/bushings, for example, have a tighter fit. They cannot be inserted from an angle. Line them up flat with the hole and use the locknut-removal tool to gently push them in.
-stock front knuckles and the h-plate break quite easily. Upgrade with aftermarket ones for the Kyosho MR02.
-When Transmitter power runs low, the cars unbind with it easily. It's indicated by the car simply not responding and having a flashing red light on the car. We found out that the Transmitter's power LED doesn't always indicate when batteries inside it are running low (light colour is still green). Many customers thought the cars's PCB was at fault; it's actually the TX batteries running low. Swap the batteries in the transmitter, rebind if needed and you're good.
-locknuts are made from more harder, brittle material. Be aware of stripping the holes.
-There are no instructions detailing how to take the batteries out from the innermost battery-well on the chassis. Many customers didn't know that the motor-clips can be used to push the batteries from the slot under the chassis.
-Binding/rebinding process is not the same as a Mini-Z. The transmitter has no bind mode - only the car has it. The procedure is like this: turn off the transmitter. Turn off the car. Turn on the car with a finger pressing the white bind switch on the top of the car chassis. Red light will flicker slowly. KEep it pressed down and turn on the transmitter's power. The red light on the car will flicker rapidly. Keep it pressed down until the light stays on and doesn't flicker anymore. Done. If you turn on/off the transmitter outside of this sequence it won't bind. Remember that if your transmitter's batteries are running low, the car unbinds easily anyway so if you find you have to constantly rebind, change batteries.
-Front suspension (stock kingpin+springs) is quite fluid for an MR02 knockoff. Definite plus here. Stock tires are also pretty grippy.
-Pinion gear for higher speed (7-9t) and spacers are included with the kit. There are no instructions for how to change them out in the manual, though. Many customers didn't know about them. Also, the motor spacers for MM mount don't have any imprints or indication on which is to be used with 7-9t. Trial and error is the way to go. that or use some kyosho spacers to match 'em up.
-RM mount, t-plate, spacers and motor cap are included in the kit. Once again, no mention in the manual of this. Locknut removal tool/c-clip remover is there but the manual doesn't refer to it or explain what it's there for.
-Manual refers to the transmitter as 'tx'. Additionally, the diagram in it does not show an actual transmitter; it actually shows a module! These two quips are not a problem for us RC guys but for the average joe they can be confusing.
-The bodies are made from one single piece of hard plastic, unlike Kyosho's autoscales which are comprised of several parts. It's more robust than Kyosho's newer bodies. Note that they do require more effort to pry apart in order to remove the chassis.
-On the plus side, firelap-branded spares (offered separately) are a lot cheaper than Kyosho ones. I still recommend to get the ones meant for the Kyosho Mr02 since they last longer. Atomic and pnracing still make 02 spares...
-
1. Iw02 2wd model (similar to Kyosho MR02):
-less customers come back with problems in these. They have a simpler design and thus get less affected and/or get fixed easily if something arises.
-despite being 2.4 the steering is quite laggy especially if you've been racing mini-z's all the time. I would place the 2.4 response as being similar to the old AM band on mini-z's and even then a tad slower. Power band on the throttle is less smooth.
-wheel rims are slightly smaller (0.5-1mm) than mini-z wheels. It is hardly noticeable though. The bearings/bushings, for example, have a tighter fit. They cannot be inserted from an angle. Line them up flat with the hole and use the locknut-removal tool to gently push them in.
-stock front knuckles and the h-plate break quite easily. Upgrade with aftermarket ones for the Kyosho MR02.
-When Transmitter power runs low, the cars unbind with it easily. It's indicated by the car simply not responding and having a flashing red light on the car. We found out that the Transmitter's power LED doesn't always indicate when batteries inside it are running low (light colour is still green). Many customers thought the cars's PCB was at fault; it's actually the TX batteries running low. Swap the batteries in the transmitter, rebind if needed and you're good.
-locknuts are made from more harder, brittle material. Be aware of stripping the holes.
-There are no instructions detailing how to take the batteries out from the innermost battery-well on the chassis. Many customers didn't know that the motor-clips can be used to push the batteries from the slot under the chassis.
-Binding/rebinding process is not the same as a Mini-Z. The transmitter has no bind mode - only the car has it. The procedure is like this: turn off the transmitter. Turn off the car. Turn on the car with a finger pressing the white bind switch on the top of the car chassis. Red light will flicker slowly. KEep it pressed down and turn on the transmitter's power. The red light on the car will flicker rapidly. Keep it pressed down until the light stays on and doesn't flicker anymore. Done. If you turn on/off the transmitter outside of this sequence it won't bind. Remember that if your transmitter's batteries are running low, the car unbinds easily anyway so if you find you have to constantly rebind, change batteries.
-Front suspension (stock kingpin+springs) is quite fluid for an MR02 knockoff. Definite plus here. Stock tires are also pretty grippy.
-Pinion gear for higher speed (7-9t) and spacers are included with the kit. There are no instructions for how to change them out in the manual, though. Many customers didn't know about them. Also, the motor spacers for MM mount don't have any imprints or indication on which is to be used with 7-9t. Trial and error is the way to go. that or use some kyosho spacers to match 'em up.
-RM mount, t-plate, spacers and motor cap are included in the kit. Once again, no mention in the manual of this. Locknut removal tool/c-clip remover is there but the manual doesn't refer to it or explain what it's there for.
-Manual refers to the transmitter as 'tx'. Additionally, the diagram in it does not show an actual transmitter; it actually shows a module! These two quips are not a problem for us RC guys but for the average joe they can be confusing.
-The bodies are made from one single piece of hard plastic, unlike Kyosho's autoscales which are comprised of several parts. It's more robust than Kyosho's newer bodies. Note that they do require more effort to pry apart in order to remove the chassis.
-On the plus side, firelap-branded spares (offered separately) are a lot cheaper than Kyosho ones. I still recommend to get the ones meant for the Kyosho Mr02 since they last longer. Atomic and pnracing still make 02 spares...
-