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r46
2013.09.25, 06:12 PM
http://www.area52.cc/images/stories/autos/content2013/content092013/content25092013/AtomicRC-AMZ.jpg

Atomic RC released a first teaser and information on their forthcoming AMZ 4WD Mini-Z-sized car kit. Building on a carbon fibre double deck chassis the car offers a 20 percent lighter all-up weight compared to a MA-015 chassis and will sport double wishbone suspension arms that allow for droop, toe and camber adjustment, it will come with grease-filled shock absorbers, front and rear ball differentials, universal driveshafts and 64dp gears. Included in the kit will also be a Hobbywing brushless speed controller and a 3-channel 2.4GHz FHSS radio system. It is understood that the kit will be ready for shipping this Winter.




Source : Area52

DMALMAD
2013.09.25, 09:09 PM
WOW did not see that coming. That looks great, any idea on pricing?

fastmax
2013.09.25, 09:53 PM
Sounds like it could be the next big (little) thing :D Anxiously awaiting more info.

DanDan
2013.09.26, 01:25 AM
Looks awesome! Can't wait to get my hands on one!

Felix2010
2013.09.26, 05:21 AM
So cool! Am looking forward to this bigtime guys. :):)

I like the design, and the fact that Atomic is dipping into the chassis market. I think this would be a good sound race car. I remember a similar 1/24-1/27 brushless/lithium AWD Mini-Z-Competitor chassis. It was being beta-tested and put on show for what was supposed to be pre-production promo at one of the bigger rc shows in the USA back a couple-few years ago, maybe RCX (This was at least a year or 2 ago..).

This AWD chassis by Atomic/Hobbywing looks a LOT better though than the prototype AWD I just mentioned. I'm really looking forward to this ATM AWD chassis, seeing what an be done... if this chassis can have the electronics swapped out for Kyosho to make it possible for use with those of us who own high-end Tx's.. :D

One question = Is this chassis legal in any PNWC Class? \This chassis is lithium... Can this chassis be fitted with the Kyosho LiFe battery 2S pack? Being Race-Legal is going to need to be clarified. Otherwise looks good!

tudor_47
2013.09.26, 05:27 AM
PNWC class, for third party chassis is pancar modified. and I do not think 4wd is allowed there?

From the PNWC finals rule (aug2013)
CHASSIS

2WD Stock Class – 90mm to 98mm Wheel Base
Kyosho Mini-Z MR01, MR015, MR02 and MR03 only. Kyosho colored chassis may be used.
Le mans Pro-Stock Class 102mm Wheel Base only.
Kyosho Mini-Z MR01, MR015, MR02 and MR03 only. Kyosho colored chassis may be used.
F1 Pro-Stock Class 130mm Wheel Base only.
Kyosho Mini-Z F1 chassis only.
GT Modified Class – 90mm to 102mm Wheel Base
Kyosho Mini-Z MR-01, MR-015, MR02, MR03 and MA010 only. Kyosho colored chassis may be used.
Pan Car Modified Class – 94mm to 102mm Wheel Base
Kyosho Mini-Z MR01, MR015, MR02 and MR03. Any after market 2WD chassis allowed.

Cherub1m
2013.09.26, 07:55 AM
Wow!!! way to go Atomic. My opinion is all miniz's need lithium power, you get better run time more speed and you can re-use your batteries without much drop in punch and they are lighter. Cant wait to see the final product. Hopefully rules will change for the better. I ran my lithium converted 02 at Maj's shop and the car ran well, after that I converted 2 more 02's and one of my AWD, Good job Atomic.

r46
2013.09.26, 02:39 PM
WOW did not see that coming. That looks great, any idea on pricing?
nothing as yet, wasn't awd fan but this one I like :) hope rx is separate to esc then we can use own tx ;)

Mattthegenus
2013.09.26, 06:54 PM
Huh I wonder where I saw this before...

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr346/mattman271/photo-5.jpg (http://s498.photobucket.com/user/mattman271/media/photo-5.jpg.html)

(my razr awd)

I can't wait to get one and make it go stupid fast!

J-Milz
2013.09.26, 10:08 PM
The evolution of the mini Z! Perhaps other 1/10 TC companies like XRAY, ASSOCIATED, serpent and awsomematix will jump in. I'll be keeping my eye on this one. It would also be great if they would be allowed to operate on your existing tx/Rx combos.

ChiMiniRc
2013.09.27, 12:58 PM
I wish them luck. I can tell you from experience that it will be very difficult to get the precision steering we are use to moving an arm, in a rack, driven off a horn attached to a standard steering servo.

ChiMiniRc
2013.09.27, 01:00 PM
I remember a similar 1/24-1/27 brushless/lithium AWD Mini-Z-Competitor chassis. It was being beta-tested and put on show for what was supposed to be pre-production promo at one of the bigger rc shows in the USA back a couple-few years ago, maybe RCX (This was at least a year or 2 ago..).


I can also tell you that the company behind this project is known to appear at ihobby which is in a week in Schaumburg, IL.
If they still plan on releasing it, I would plan on seeing it there.


http://www.bigsquidrc.com/warrior-minis/

http://www.bigsquidrc.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Warrior-Minis-3.jpg

TheSteve
2013.09.27, 04:10 PM
I wish them luck. I can tell you from experience that it will be very difficult to get the precision steering we are use to moving an arm, in a rack, driven off a horn attached to a standard steering servo.

This is by far the biggest challenge.

imxlr8ed
2013.09.27, 05:19 PM
*yawn*.... ;)

For some strange reason, I'm not thrilled with this. Ok, so someone is finally devoting a 1/24th scale to brushless and lipo but this is an idea that has been around for quite some time now. And yes, I would prefer an integrated servo as well but that's tough to do for any AWD at this scale and keep it fairly slop-free.

I'm more interested in the electronics involved here and the radio types that will be utilized (please be cheap like a FlySky... please be cheap like a FlySky...). If I gotta buy an $80 dollar Atomic version of a KT18, I'm gonna puke! :p

Or maybe I'm just in a negative energy today. :rolleyes:

Draconious
2013.09.28, 08:27 AM
It figures I see this only a few days after my interest to actually produce a few of my MiX chassis returns, due to finally having more than enough funds, and snagging a job that is training me to use their CNC and RP machines...

The rails on the top of the chassis in that last photo above, looks like my MiX, from about 2 or 3 versions prior to my current version. Only I had a different mid section/battery holder... and I gave up on gears... in favor of a belt. My Diffs are still top secret though ;)

It was only a matter of time before someone come up with a similar idea... I am surprised it took this long?!!??! ...or maybe I showed images to too many people in AIM chat? ... (I do not use AIM any more)

There is just too many out there now...
Oh well, I was really hoping to sell a few next year, to get something out of all the CAD work I did... anyone want to buy a cheap chassis design?!?! lol

drhavy
2013.10.06, 10:09 PM
Just curious to know if this is gona really come out and if so, anybody know when?
Looks like a sweet ride.

arch2b
2013.10.13, 01:13 PM
as soon as this is commercially available i will promote this to it's own category within this subforum. :p

r46
2013.10.15, 02:15 AM
Just curious to know if this is gona really come out and if so, anybody know when?
Looks like a sweet ride.

All tight lipped at min, soon as I know more details an final production photos thread be updated

Sweet arch2b!
santa got a list building this holiday forsure :)

yamar6
2013.10.22, 11:42 AM
what is the date it is coming out and also what radio are they going to use i hope not the mini z one.

r46
2013.10.23, 10:54 AM
what is the date it is coming out and also what radio are they going to use i hope not the mini z one.

no clue with release date as yet! fingers n toes crossed for holidays :) as for radio(included) is a FHSS (regular radio) not Asf mini z.

so could be something along these lines

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24904__HK_210_2_Channel_2_4ghz_FHSS_Ground_Radio .html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__12177__HK_300_3_Channel_2_4ghz_FHSS_Ground_Radio .html

DMALMAD
2013.10.24, 10:23 PM
do you know if it will be compatible with fhss modules for the ko radios because those radios don't look so promising.:(

r46
2013.10.25, 12:51 AM
do you know if it will be compatible with fhss modules for the ko radios because those radios don't look so promising.:(
Those radios I linked in previous post are supplied with quite a few RTR models on market just rebadged.

We need more details on product or to have model to say tbh (i'm not from factory nor a shop) :o it is supplied with a radio but thats unknown which it be apart from FHSS based.
I use hk310 for my bashing tx with my other scales for nearly 2 years now not one issue an tremendous range! put the dx3R had to shame

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__12181__HK_310_3_Channel_2_4ghz_FHSS_Ground_Radio .html

r46
2013.10.31, 10:50 AM
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mbr_P9R5DjI/Um8iSbWYzzI/AAAAAAAAchA/MBz-4BddbpE/s1600/602260_10151980235145854_589863831_n.jpg

imxlr8ed
2013.10.31, 11:34 AM
Ok, that picture makes it interesting to me now... I wonder if it will convert to 2WD easily? Also wondering if that is the radio for it in the background. 98mm wheelbase here?... changeable?

Keep these things RTR with batt under $180 and I think these will fly off the shelves!

mleemor60
2013.10.31, 01:03 PM
Even as an AWD it could possibly be the link to the 1/10th scale touring guys that are tired of having to pull a trailer around to haul all the different regalia that is needed to be competitive. An easy swap to 2WD would be like a longer lasting Cialis.

imxlr8ed
2013.11.01, 01:20 AM
Wait a minute... I always thought that if you filled your pit with the latest, most expensive 10th scale gear available, it was an automatic ticket to the A-mains!?!?

I think some just like to spend the bucks, maybe it justifies the time they spend. Kinda like buying new workout equipment and using the cost as a motivation to use it.

Honestly, if they were to release this with just plastic grease shocks, plastic bushings and gear diffs, I would more than likely still try to get my hands on one if it came in under $100 in RTR form.

Those three wires going to that BL just make this thing look so right for some reason.
(and they don't look like they'll break if a mouse farts in their general direction!)

danieluki
2013.11.08, 09:27 AM
Cant wait to december...!

Here some more details...
http://s15.postimg.org/t76xgdkvf/541437_10151997179415854_54756972_n.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/931x524q90/194/lifm.jpg

http://s22.postimg.org/nxqwq7m29/1381325_376534902479868_1706114901_n.jpg

http://s22.postimg.org/pgmav6smp/1391491_376534849146540_1289260681_n.jpg

http://s22.postimg.org/eaneght2p/1385625_10151927964207480_84286950_n.jpg

J-Milz
2013.11.08, 09:54 AM
Do we know a price point? Will this be compatible with the current ko propo asf system?

skyler
2013.11.08, 10:36 AM
Do we know a price point? Will this be compatible with the current ko propo asf system?

They say $165 US.

dwight
2013.11.08, 09:19 PM
So when is the release date and is it brushless?

arch2b
2013.11.08, 10:44 PM
They say $165 US.

thats not bad, impressed. also dependant on what exactly comes with the kit...

skyler
2013.11.09, 09:08 AM
So when is the release date and is it brushless?

AMZ RTR kit.
The first limited production would available on mid-December. MSRP: USD $165

The RTR kit included:-
* 2.4Ghz FHSS radio transmitter.
* VMX 5000kv BB brushless motor.

targetingxmod
2013.11.09, 09:18 AM
AMZ RTR kit.
The first limited production would available on mid-December. MSRP: USD $165

The RTR kit included:-
* 2.4Ghz FHSS radio transmitter.
* VMX 5000kv BB brushless motor.

HEY, this seems a good car.
One thing i would like is it having a separate receiver, that, or having an optional receiver for the ASF transmiters outthere. That way they will sell more cars and more ASF receivers then anybody else!

Please make a ASF miniz compatible receiver for this....
Please!

You guys that have the conections can make this "thought" go thrught to the "boys" who are making these?

Please!:D

arch2b
2013.11.09, 07:32 PM
AMZ RTR kit.
The first limited production would available on mid-December. MSRP: USD $165

The RTR kit included:-
* 2.4Ghz FHSS radio transmitter.
* VMX 5000kv BB brushless motor.

not a bad deal for an rtr.

yamar6
2013.11.10, 10:15 AM
does any one know what kind of radio

DMALMAD
2013.12.02, 09:47 PM
found this on atomic's website
http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/images/banner8.jpg

To answer the question above they went with the most expensive hobbyking radio, it's digital and has some features and adjustments. Here's the link:
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24905__Turnigy_3XS_FHSS_2_4GHz_3_Channel_Radio_S ystem.html

imxlr8ed
2013.12.03, 12:30 AM
Wow... 46 bucks, really knockin us Z racers on our asses with those huge prices. :/

Yes... that statement is oozing with sarcasm.

I think many of us on here paid more for a used KT-18... I know I did! I really don't think any price is a shock to us hardcore Z owners anymore, maybe we've all just been Kyosho's bitches for far too long.:D

My only prayer for all of these new startups and all of the new, made in China "cheaper" Kyosho stuff... just friggin catch on already and get more peeps in the scale for cryin out loud!!!

Funniest thing I keep thinking is, that if this new Atomic chassis would've been produced by Kyosho as the new MA030 or something like that, we'd all be expecting to pay around 400 for an RTR with no hops and a KT-18 crap radio to boot.

imxlr8ed
2013.12.03, 01:01 AM
Was just on the Youtube and saw a very interesting video in another language I don't understand about this chassis. They already have a programming "card" for the board?! Maybe this was mentioned earlier and I missed it. Just did a search on Atomic AMZ. I think it was a TRP vid.

gctkaz
2013.12.03, 06:49 PM
I am expecting to receive a TZ4 soon (don't know what happened - I paid for EMS), this Atomic chassis still looks interesting to me and I might get one anyway if the price is right. The mechanical design looks more sophisticated than the TZ4/Mini-Q, brushless out of the box and with good aftermarket support.

I may do a brushless conversion on my TZ4, but that's around a $75 upgrade for ESC, motor, servo, and receiver, and there is no guarantee I will be able to fit it all under a body shell, and fit it all with a nice weight distribution.

Cherub1m
2013.12.06, 11:50 AM
AMZ RTR kit.
The first limited production would available on mid-December. MSRP: USD $165

The RTR kit included:-
* 2.4Ghz FHSS radio transmitter.
* VMX 5000kv BB brushless motor.

Not bad pricing for RTR. Maybe Atomic needs to start making Autoscale bodies also:D. Waiting patiently for the review

arch2b
2013.12.06, 02:23 PM
If no body, more apt name would be ARR. Not a bad price though for a running chassis and transmitter. I would buy that before a sports series ready set even. Though it's slightly less.

Felix2010
2013.12.06, 09:02 PM
This Atomic AWD chassis looks like a winner to me... Hope it will be legal to drive in competition:) And $165? That's just awesome.

Cherub1m
2013.12.12, 10:36 PM
Here are a couple link on youtube of the AMZ running

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngjwMrQZ3LY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2nXnqjFGJk

EMU
2013.12.13, 02:48 AM
This is an interesting chassis. Although, a couple things that concern me... the steering linkage, and the radio.

This is the radio that DMALMAD linked to in his post...
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/catalog/24905.jpg

although, in the video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFfvYG1Z93M)... it is a different transmitter. The AT-1
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34043&stc=1&d=1386919720
which as you can see, has analog adjustment/trim.

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34044&stc=1&d=1386922490

The question that I have, is will the Hobby King 3XS radio be compatible with this system?

Of course I have many more questions, but overall, besides these two concerns this looks to be a nice ARR kit, at a great price (even if the radio is a little suspect, but replaceable with the 3XS). The AT-1 is the same radio that is used in the videos that Cherub1m posted, you can just barely see in the beginning of the video the pilot adjusting the trims... Even if you add the price of a 3XS to it, you are still at a reasonable price. I hope that either they release a version without a radio, or offer a higher end radio as well, so you don't end up having to buy an additional radio... With the relatively low price of the 3XS, it just seems a little ridiculous that they would use a knob trim radio when they can still come in under $200 with a full digital one. A chassis kit at $149 without radio would be killer!

If the AT-1 is the only compatible radio, then I would say that it isn't too good of a deal, since you would have to swap out the electronics, and get another radio. But I want to be hopeful, for Atomic's sake.

Either case, I feel that this type of chassis/setup is what could bring more larger scale racers down to Mini-Z scale. And hopefully more competition for the stranglehold that Kyosho has had on this market. How will it fare against an MA-010/020 fully hopped up with LiPo/BL... that is the big question. And what response will other aftermarket parts manufacturers have? Will they too produce their own cars? Will it have to be raced in a separate class, or even be permitted at other manufacturers racing series events? I feel that this chassis takes a step forward for the scale, to essentially shrink down a 1/10 scale touring chassis. Similar voltage LiPo, and BL motor layout. I feel that the days of 4xAAA racing may be limited, and personally, I have been waiting quietly to see that happen.

I haven't had this much excitement since the first AWD were about to roll off the assembly lines.

This chassis/ARR kit interests me more than the new X-Power 2wd chassis, although, I do like that as well (minus the fact that it isn't complete) :p But at a similar price point, this definitely takes the prize :D

gctkaz
2013.12.13, 02:48 PM
Very sharp eye, EMU!

I am also concerned about the radio. The best situation would be that the protocol is compatible with some other company's radio - in particular, some company who makes a PPM module. I don't think much is known about external compatibility of the Turnigy 3XS/HK-310, if it is some house-built protocol inside a cloned shell. Same goes for the radio of this Atomic chassis - is it an actual AT-1, or does it use some other electronics inside a cloned AT-1 shell?

Who makes AT-1, by the way? Is it Sanwa?

At least with the Turnigy chassis, it has been confirmed to be a FlySky protocol and I have mine working with a Ko Propo EX-1UR and FlySky module.

chad508
2013.12.13, 07:29 PM
Very sharp eye, EMU!

I am also concerned about the radio. The best situation would be that the protocol is compatible with some other company's radio - in particular, some company who makes a PPM module. I don't think much is known about external compatibility of the Turnigy 3XS/HK-310, if it is some house-built protocol inside a cloned shell. Same goes for the radio of this Atomic chassis - is it an actual AT-1, or does it use some other electronics inside a cloned AT-1 shell?

Who makes AT-1, by the way? Is it Sanwa?

At least with the Turnigy chassis, it has been confirmed to be a FlySky protocol and I have mine working with a Ko Propo EX-1UR and FlySky module.

they both look like spektrum radios to me. not sure on internals

EMU
2013.12.14, 02:59 PM
They have a similar look, definitely, but until we know what the electronics are, we cannot assume that they are compatible. Someone will have to be a Guinea Pig...

It may be very difficult to find modules. From what I can see, there aren't many modules being produced much anymore. Probably because the module may cost more than just producing a complete radio, and not having to deal with licenses. I know that I would prefer to get a module, and use my Helios, but I don't think that is an option.

J-Milz
2013.12.21, 12:24 PM
This would have been a great Xmas gift.

r46
2013.12.21, 06:35 PM
They have a similar look, definitely, but until we know what the electronics are, we cannot assume that they are compatible. Someone will have to be a Guinea Pig...

It may be very difficult to find modules. From what I can see, there aren't many modules being produced much anymore. Probably because the module may cost more than just producing a complete radio, and not having to deal with licenses. I know that I would prefer to get a module, and use my Helios, but I don't think that is an option.

100% none spektrum based..

quite simple, remove 2 n 1 unit an replace with separates ie mamba sidewinder , ezrun 18a, trackstar 18a an k.o,spekky,futaba,sanwa rx unsure if servo is regular 3 wire or 5 wire, will know more when available :)

gctkaz
2013.12.21, 08:48 PM
Looks like servo is 3-wire, but very small plug - maybe the same as what was found on the HPI 1/32 car. Should be a simple matter to find an adapter or re-wire. At this scale I think the 18A systems will be overkill - I use one in my 1/18 truck and it already screams. The 10A systems should be a good fit. I have one on hand just waiting to go into something!

r46
2013.12.21, 11:01 PM
Looks like servo is 3-wire, but very small plug - maybe the same as what was found on the HPI 1/32 car. Should be a simple matter to find an adapter or re-wire. At this scale I think the 18A systems will be overkill - I use one in my 1/18 truck and it already screams. The 10A systems should be a good fit. I have one on hand just waiting to go into something!

i use ezrun 18a in losi truggy with 12mm motor 2 & 3s run (rather have ampage draw safety cushion for when use high kv motors that draw 9+ amps)
my 1/18's use mamba 25 , sidewinder & quark 33a.
atomic teasing us :rolleyes: mid december was too be limited first batch :confused:

EMU
2013.12.26, 09:40 AM
Jan 14th (or before) looks like it will be the release day from what I have seen on their site.
http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/images/banner8.jpg

r46, the response of the electronics looks to be good (judging by the videos). I think I would prefer to try to keep the electronics and see if I can get a relatively inexpensive digital TX. Makes much more sense than buying all new electronics to work with my Helios, as well as a new module...

If you state that the electronics are 'none spektrum based', that does not mean that there isn't a relatively good transmitter that uses the same 2.4ghz band that this does. Whether Spektrum or not, unless I know the specific band, and possible TX's that are compatible, I will have to wait and see what other people try or what information is officially released. Right now would be a good time to have an ATM-USA representative :sigh:

r46
2013.12.26, 10:11 AM
its fhss base so 100% none spectrum & flysky so unable do module mod, doubt very much futaba fhss is compatiable, need to meet up with one of my buddies an see if his futaba tx pairs with my losi truggy which uses fhss system same as what amz on.
I'll use my basher tx with it don't like style of tx supplied.

minittrackmann
2014.01.14, 07:59 PM
Well tomorrow is the latest atomic said the amz would be released.. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

EMU
2014.01.14, 09:29 PM
https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1524834_10152170028845854_1618326353_n.jpg

I think they are close... posted on the Atomic F******k page... :cool:

minittrackmann
2014.01.14, 11:38 PM
https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1524834_10152170028845854_1618326353_n.jpg

I think they are close... posted on the Atomic F******k page... :cool:

That's been up for a week

EMU
2014.01.15, 01:42 AM
That's been up for a week

4 days != a week... and some users may not use f******k.

targetingxmod
2014.01.15, 07:03 AM
Am i the only that think that this kind of car, should have 2 versions:

-An RTR
-An Chassis only....with maybe only servo and motor or only servo....?

Hein?
I will buy the chassis right away!

EMU
2014.01.15, 08:19 AM
Am i the only that think that this kind of car, should have 2 versions:

-An RTR
-An Chassis only....with maybe only servo and motor or only servo....?

Hein?
I will buy the chassis right away!
I would like a chassis only option as well.

I think with the low price they are planning to sell the car, that they are already coming in at a low price for their RTR version, that $165 price would be worth it just for the chassis alone. If you compare to the 2wd X-Power MR03 conversion, you are getting a LOT for your money here.

gctkaz
2014.01.15, 12:38 PM
It was supposed to be released today (yesterday in Hong Kong) or before - no sign of it at EGRmart, and only the slider ad at rcatomic :(

I'm getting antsy! I want one of these after the disappointment of the Turnigy chassis!

arch2b
2014.01.15, 01:41 PM
4 days != a week... and some users may not use f******k.

i don't and never will. it's a professional liability :rolleyes: too many people using it in very stupid ways.

J-Milz
2014.01.17, 09:09 AM
http://www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=619&products_id=4685

I found them here. It's a bit pricey IMO.

minittrackmann
2014.01.17, 09:40 AM
202.73
I believe that price is without a lipo as well. Nice find jamil!

J-Milz
2014.01.17, 10:17 AM
Plus the beating you'll receive on shipping. I'll wait

minittrackmann
2014.01.17, 11:04 AM
Are they a euro company?

r46
2014.01.17, 03:42 PM
Are they a euro company?

yes in italy

Mrs Mini-Z
2014.01.18, 03:39 PM
Hi All! Just wanted to let you know that the Atomic AMZ Chassis and Transmitter Set (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=22673&cat=0&page=1&featured) arrived yesterday and is available for sale now at shop.tinyr.com :)

EMU
2014.01.19, 09:22 AM
Hi All! Just wanted to let you know that the Atomic AMZ Chassis and Transmitter Set (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=22673&cat=0&page=1&featured) arrived yesterday and is available for sale now at shop.tinyr.com :)

Great!!! I am looking forward to getting mine ;)

J-Milz
2014.01.19, 09:45 AM
What size lipo battery is required? Anybody have dimensions?

gctkaz
2014.01.20, 02:25 AM
Great!!! I am looking forward to getting mine ;)
Me too! I couldn't wait for EGR to get their stock, but free USPS Priority shipping from TinyRC is good enough for me! Thank you for the heads-up, Missus Mini-Z, you rightly earned this sale from me.

I think I got the 2nd-to-last one :cool:

911need
2014.01.21, 05:45 PM
Has anyone received a new AMZ and checked it out to see if it works with a Ko mini-z module?

EMU
2014.01.21, 05:58 PM
What size lipo battery is required? Anybody have dimensions?

I havent received mine yet... But I will let you know what dimensions they are. I have a few cells on the way that I want to try with the MRX that may fit this. Although, they are single cells... I also have the MRX cells, which are about 45x20x10 that I can try...

Once I get the chassis, I will update and let you know.

As far as radio, I really don't think that it is compatible with the KO ASF module... although, it may be possible with the FHSS? More will be known once they are received by the racers. I do want to try to use my Helios at least, or be able to buy a mid level radio for it. I wouldnt want to spend $200 on a radio or module to use the car with advanced functionality...

Mrs Mini-Z
2014.01.21, 07:53 PM
Hi All!
Just wanted to let you know everyone who ordered the AMZ over the weekend should receive it soon - they shipped out today (delayed a day due to the MLK postal holiday yesterday).

Also, we should be getting more next month. I can put them up for pre-order if you'd like once I get confirmation on our numbers.

Lastly (but not least) batteries and parts are in the works. Getting them asap and will update you when I have a definite ETA (yes, a definite estimate! :p).

Thanks for making the AMZ chassis launch at shop.tinyrc.com a great success! Thanks too for your patience as we get parts/accessories/more chassis as soon as we can. We, as always, are working hard for you. :)

Mrs. Mini-Z :)

gctkaz
2014.01.21, 08:22 PM
I havent received mine yet... But I will let you know what dimensions they are. I have a few cells on the way that I want to try with the MRX that may fit this. Although, they are single cells... I also have the MRX cells, which are about 45x20x10 that I can try...

Once I get the chassis, I will update and let you know.

As far as radio, I really don't think that it is compatible with the KO ASF module... although, it may be possible with the FHSS? More will be known once they are received by the racers. I do want to try to use my Helios at least, or be able to buy a mid level radio for it. I wouldnt want to spend $200 on a radio or module to use the car with advanced functionality...
I'll leave the exact measurements to you!

For the batteries, at least on this preview (http://www.laminiz.com/2013/12/amz-datomic-4-roues-motrices-brushless.html) (in French) from last year, it was tested with a 300mAh Turnigy nano-tech. It appears to be this one (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28444__Turnigy_nano_tech_300mah_2S_35_70C_Lipo_P ack_E_flite_EFLB2002S25_micro_series_compatible_.h tml) for a Blade 130X heli, with a single 3-pin JST-PH discharge plug which goes straight into the Rx/ESC unit from the right side.
I doubt Atomic changed the hardware much since last year so I have gone ahead and ordered 6 of those batteries from HK's US warehouse, they were under $5 each. I will have to make my own balance/charging cable for these, until I get a para-board.
The chassis appears to have some battery retainers so there might only be room to go upwards for a larger battery, or a wider battery can maybe go in vertically.

I would actually be quite interested to see if this thing will run on 1S LiPo. I already have both the LED and LCD Hobbywing program cards so I will see what kind of settings are available for cut-off and such. Again, just need to make my own adapter.

As far as the radio goes, the stock radio with the dials looks serviceable enough for just a single car. I think the most likely candidates for compatible computer-based radios would be the Turnigy 3XS or HK-310. They are stocked at the US warehouse so I might be willing to risk the $40 or so to give it a try later on.

This is all speculation, of course. Hope to update soon once I receive my car!

EMU
2014.01.21, 10:51 PM
I ordered a couple of these for my MRX: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=20386
They are 43x24x9mm... I will test fit them on the AMZ stacked and see how they fit. They will be considerably larger than the 300mah that you linked (the one that the AMZ was designed for supposedly), but I think I will need more than 300mah to get 10min runtime. With a 2wd brushed MRX, I can get just about 10min with a 48t ATM Stock motor with the stock X-power 560mah Lipo packs.

Looking at this picture in the BLOG DE WWW.MINI-VOITURE-RC.COM ... it looks like there may be just enough room to fit the 750 cells stacked... I have to see if they make a 2s version of that pack.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tNRDKexP60o/UqwvYNve_-I/AAAAAAAAAO4/ie2P_eyum3g/s1600/amz-atomic-1.jpg
In addition, I was concerned that the mass of the 750mah cells may throw off the balance, but I see that an additional 10g of lead has been put on the battery side of the chassis, so I will assume that this is a balanced car.
750mah = 18g each cell, so 18g x 2 = 36g total, -10g lead = 26g
300mah = 16g, +10g lead = 26g...
so 10g of lead would need to be moved to the motor side of the chassis to balance the car.

I think that the MRX batteries may be a little too large to stack (or mount side by side). It would have been nice to see a side picture with the battery to see where it matches the chassis.

Just to get the data consolidated:
Nano-Tech 3.7v 750mah 43x24x9mm, 18g
Nano-Tech 7.4v 300mah 44x18x12mm, 16g
MRX 3.7v 560mah 45x20x11mm, 16g

In comparison, the suggested 300mah cell is very similar in size to the MRX cell... so, it may be a stretch to have two of them on the battery side... and it would definitely increase the CG, although should still have a lower CG than the MA-010 in theory. An adapter would also need to be made to run the cells in series, which will further increase the mass...

I am going to keep my eye out for cells that may fit the chassis that are close in size but larger capacity...

Felix2010
2014.01.22, 04:57 PM
Thank you for that pic from that blog EMU, the chassis looks great.. :)

I love the 1/10th scale design similarities. Great job ATM for bringing a new AWD chassis to us Mini-Z fans :)

I hope to read reviews from all you new AMZ 4WD owners regarding just how this baby handles... I would also like to hear about the Transmitter (Tx) and how good the supplied Tx is. As many people have already commented, I have got used to higher-end KO PROPO Tx's like the Helios and the EX-1UR, and I'm wondering if a Tx upgrade for this AMZ chassis is necessary or if the supplied Tx with the AMZ chassis RTR kit is pretty good or less-than-to-be-desired...

As always THANK YOU to all the members supplying info/specs and comments and photos of this new ATOMIC 4WD creation! I missed out on my chance to order one, so I will have to wait for the next shipment.. But I hope everyone who gets their AMZ has lots and LOTS of GOOD news for us who are in the market to get one of these AMZ 4WD chassis+Tx kits! Everyoe's input on this forum is very much appreciated!!! :)

TheSteve
2014.01.22, 06:43 PM
Looks just like a baby Xray M18pro - can't wait to see one in person.

EMU
2014.01.23, 01:00 AM
Felix, I just linked the pic to the one blog that gtckaz posted... he did the research, I just used it for reference.

I am hoping that this chassis draws more 1/10 racers to the scale... but I think we need more than a 300mah battery, although my lack of experience with brushless at this scale I don't know how much more efficient it is than a brushed motor, but I still feel that 300mah is a little small... probably good for 5-6min races, but not much more.

kyoshosan
2014.01.23, 09:11 AM
Cant wait to december...!

Here some more details...
http://s15.postimg.org/t76xgdkvf/541437_10151997179415854_54756972_n.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/931x524q90/194/lifm.jpg

http://s22.postimg.org/nxqwq7m29/1381325_376534902479868_1706114901_n.jpg

http://s22.postimg.org/pgmav6smp/1391491_376534849146540_1289260681_n.jpg

http://s22.postimg.org/eaneght2p/1385625_10151927964207480_84286950_n.jpg

I was going to ask if we could use Mini-Z ASCs on it, but after seeing these pictures, I'm pretty sure the answer is yes, although I haven't see a picture of it w/ an Autoscale body mounted yet.

To me, this is key to make this car a success, previous attempts you couldn't, had to use either lexan bodies or drill holes in the ASC like 1/10 scale.

This can definitely boost the Mini-Z scene again. Looking forward to it.

EMU
2014.01.23, 12:00 PM
Kyoshosan, haven't seen pictures... but heres a video...

911need
2014.01.23, 05:43 PM
I havent received mine yet... But I will let you know what dimensions they are. I have a few cells on the way that I want to try with the MRX that may fit this. Although, they are single cells... I also have the MRX cells, which are about 45x20x10 that I can try...

Once I get the chassis, I will update and let you know.

As far as radio, I really don't think that it is compatible with the KO ASF module... although, it may be possible with the FHSS? More will be known once they are received by the racers. I do want to try to use my Helios at least, or be able to buy a mid level radio for it. I wouldnt want to spend $200 on a radio or module to use the car with advanced functionality...

EMU thanks for the info. This brings another question would you happen to have an FHSS module for your Ko that you could try when you receive your new AMZ?
I don't have one but would get one if works.

Felix2010
2014.01.23, 08:20 PM
Felix, I just linked the pic to the one blog that gtckaz posted... he did the research, I just used it for reference.

I am hoping that this chassis draws more 1/10 racers to the scale... but I think we need more than a 300mah battery, although my lack of experience with brushless at this scale I don't know how much more efficient it is than a brushed motor, but I still feel that 300mah is a little small... probably good for 5-6min races, but not much more.

Hi EMU, I had read you linked the pic from another blog, I just saw the pic and that you had put it up here...:) I understand you want to give credit to gtckaz and I also want to say thank you to gtckaz for the blog pic of the AMZ chassis.:D No harm intended..:o

Again a big Thank You to everyone for posting pics and info about this new ATM chassis:) Looks very sweet.. Very 1/10th-ish :)

Mini-Z Autoscale compatibility is a huge+++. I like this fact a lot..:D

Very nice looking chassis also, not cheap looking at all IMHO... :) For the price the AMZ chassis is set at, I think you get quite a bit of car for your money with this baby! Very cool:cool:

gctkaz
2014.01.24, 12:27 AM
Hey no hard feelings at all, I was only linking to pictures someone else took anyway. Real credit goes to our francophone friends. Everybody is looking forward to information about this new chassis since official word from Atomic seems scarce.

EMU have you received yours yet? My chassis and nano-tech batteries were delivered to my US parcel receiver this morning, but I won't have a chance to go pick them up until Saturday morning. I already have my balance charging adapters made, as well as an adapter to use some different 300mAh nano-tech which I already have (were used for Losi micro), so I should have in total 8 usable batteries.

I recall some local guys getting ballpark of one hour runtime on the VE setup with 1000mAh-ish AAA and slightly dialed back throttle settings. I expect 10-12 minutes on 300mAh should be well doable with the AMZ. TheSteve, The G, input on your brushless experience?

I do have a concern about voltage cut-off options though. With NiMH, when the voltage gets low you are at least able to hobble your way around the track to a reachable place to pick up the car. If the ESC on the AMZ does not have a soft cutoff, then the car may just suddenly stop dead (my Turnigy TZ4 did this while The G was driving it). Everything will be revealed Sunday... can hardly wait!

EMU
2014.01.24, 01:02 AM
I haven't received my car yet. Optimistic that it will arrive tomorrow, but I wont have a track day at least until next week. I also don't have a Lipo charger, so I cant really test the car even if my batteries do fit. (and I wont have $ to buy one till next week, have been using a loaner at the track to charge my MRX)

My Lipo experience is with the MRX, with 03 board. And you feel power drop but no power cutoff. I am hoping that there is some sort of power cutoff here, and a soft one at that.

If brushless cars are getting 1hr runtime nursing the throttle with 1000mah cells, then I would think that I was close to my original estimate of about 6-7min runtime with 300mah. In an Endurance race I ran about 45min or so with 800mah AAA and an ATM Stock-BB with a focus on runtime and consistent laps.

With the 560mah Lipo I get about 10minutes, although I never really timed my runs on the Lipo, after a 5min qual, I had about 5 more minutes practice after. You also have to take into account that this is AWD, and that alone will reduce runtime by 10-15% at least. The drivetrain looks to be free, as much as the MA-010 at least judging by the videos, but more will be known once they are received by the racers...

I too wish that there was more information from Atomic about the car, and ICS programmer. Is there an app/pc connector available?

gctkaz
2014.01.24, 01:17 AM
I too wish that there was more information from Atomic about the car, and ICS programmer. Is there an app/pc connector available?
From one of the other pictures, it seems that the ESC is connected to one of these (http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=214), but I can't see enough to be able to tell where the cable goes or what kind of plug it uses. The card runs standalone but it's quite easy to use. The LCD program card works over USB connection to PC but I don't know yet if it is compatible with the AMZ. I have both LED and LCD Hobbywing cards so I will try them both on Saturday. I just hope I have the necessary connectors on hand in case I need to fabricate something.

The LED card only costs a few dollars and is included in many of HW's ESC/motor combinations. If the AMZ ESC contains all the features of HW's larger ESCs, then it might be possible to program it on-board with blinks/beeps - but it is really tedious and better to just go for a program card.

EMU
2014.01.24, 02:21 AM
You can see in one of the images earlier in the thread that there is a programmer, and it lists the functions, which are different than any of the three cards that they offer for the larger scale line.

http://s22.postimg.org/eaneght2p/1385625_10151927964207480_84286950_n.jpg
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0109/9702/products/LED_PC2_large.jpg?v=1323560617

The list on the ATM card looks pretty extensive, but no way to read what is adjustable from the pic.

r46
2014.01.24, 09:29 PM
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/catalog/22906.jpg

I run 300mah nano tech in losi truggy 3850kv 18a esc get 45-50 mins from pack, i stop midway to cool motor.
kits you guys ordered come with lipo? as member of another his kit never oddly..
the card in back ground looks more like pc2c, hopefully can use lcd box

gctkaz
2014.01.24, 10:13 PM
That's EMU's very sharp eye. I did not notice, but the label looks different between the pic at Hobbywing and the one from the show, and indeed different from my own card. I hope at least one of my cards works.

r46, I also have two of those LiPo that you show. I made an adapter to change the JST-XH balance plug to a JST-PH which I believe is what the AMZ uses - but the version for the E-flite copter should fit in without the extraneous cabling.

I will go pick up my kit first thing early tomorrow morning!

EMU
2014.01.24, 11:02 PM
Box... excited to open it up :P
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34113&stc=1&d=1390619484

I can jam the MRX cells in, but its a REAL tight fit. The Electronics Package (EP) case is raised about 2-3mm in this pic, hard to tell from the angle. Perhaps, relocating it a few millimeters to the left will allow me to use these cells.
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34114&stc=1&d=1390619484

Unfortunately, I cannot test it tonight... while the batteries are charged, they use a 3 pin plug, and I don't feel like soldering to the unit the first night that I have it...

There are no instructions included. Just a multi-image exploded diagram. Looks like a page of A4 paper folded up with 8 diagrams. Kind of disappointed in that department.

The TX takes 4xAAA.

I have a little notch in the drivetrain... where I can feel some resistance. It feels like it may be on the front driveshaft gear, but its hard to know for sure without taking it apart. Its not bad, and could be something that will either work itself out, or progressively get worse...

The rear right wheel looks like it has positive camber as does the front left. Rear left looks fine, with a hint of negative camber as does the front right. I wouldn't be putting this on the track until that is resolved, and there are no upper turnbuckles on the car to adjust the camber to sort that out.

Here is a pic of the rear right wheel to see the positive camber.
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34115&stc=1&d=1390620305

I would assume that there may be an issue with the diff cover molding. It looks like the knuckles aren't an issue... Anyone else that has the car, please report whether you have this issue as well.

My steering throw is about 2x greater to the left than to the right. Perhaps the servo was not centered when the servo saver was installed? I removed the steering link rod, and shortened it 15 half turns, and now the throw is equal both directions. But I would prefer that the servo horn is vertical when the steering is straight, so I recentered the servo horn by removing the 2 screws on the chassis to remove the servo, and removed the servo link rod nut... unscrewed the servo horn, centered the servo horn and reinstalled the servo. It would have been much easier had I been able to power the car. I may need to do it again once I get power to the car, Im a little OCD about things like this. But now, the horn is vertical when the wheels are straight, so I am happy!

I think that this car has a LOT of potential... It feels solid, has less wheel slop than almost all 4 of my MA-010's. Wheels look to be compatible. I will disassemble the car more tomorrow when I get a chance, and check out the diffs, and see if they can be replaced with Kyosho units... same with the swingshafts.

I know that I am nitpicking a lot here. In general, what I see is a really nice looking chassis, but I just thought that I would get all of the negative out of the way, to see if I possibly have a bad chassis, or if this is common amongst the batch.

I think with turnbuckle upper arms (all upper arms are exactly the same), it would be easy to adjust the camber issue out... and removing the servo horn and centering the servo and reinstalling it would pretty much resolve the out of box issues that I have with the chassis. The notchiness in the drivetrain is a concern, but not something that would prevent me from running the car. It just feels like the mesh is a little too tight.

Differentials look to be adjustable by removing the rear right wheel and front left knuckle and using a Philips driver.

I would have liked to see more adjustable geometry options (toe, camber) on a car of this caliber... so it does look like there is room for hop up options.


@r46: What scale is the Losi Truggy that you are using the 300mah cell in? Thanks for the info :)


edit: unscrewing the top deck screws and screwing them back in greatly reduced that notchy feeling that I had with the drivetrain. You must remove the EP case by removing the tiny 0-rings around the pins that hold it in place. Be careful not to lose them if you do this.

Loosening the top deck also helped some of the camber issue as well... very close to 0 camber all around now... With no true camber gauge, holding the lighter up against each wheel with the base of the lighter flat on my pitboard looks like they all touch the bottom and top edge of the wheel on all four wheels. So it looks like that relieved both issues. Drivetrain and camber. Loosening the mesh between the motor pinion and spur did the rest. Drivetrain is completely free now. Perhaps it was a bit tweaked and set too tight when it was assembled in the factory. I wouldn't mind an unassembled chassis... But I would like to have some camber options.

EP case is 3.2g. EP is 4.7g. 7.9g combined.

Option parts are available at EGR. With them, you have the program card. Be prepared to spend $40 for toe/camber options, option gears and a blancing wire... $24 for the program card.

I do wonder if they will sell the EP separate... as well as the BL motor. If they are well priced, then it may be a good option to use to modify a MA-010... or MR03, etc... so long as the radio is effective.

r46
2014.01.25, 06:39 AM
nice 1 love prompt post :)
truggy is 1/24
http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/IMG-20121222-00383.jpg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/IMG-20130122-00492.jpg

cells i use
2s
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=28646

slightly different dims but single lead -- Gctkaz cell
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=36958

& (prefer nano tech as puncher)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=20654

3s get good 20 mins
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=28649

EMU
2014.01.25, 01:21 PM
I had looked at the Zippy 350mah cell last night. They look like a viable option for this chassis...

Is the motor for that Losi Truggy 130 sized? Or is it the Micro-T sized one? Sorry for the noob questions, Ive been away from RC for some time :rolleyes:

gctkaz
2014.01.25, 03:47 PM
I picked up my chassis today. Battery is not included, but the HobbyKing 300mAh 2S for E-flite is a perfect fit.

I would have really liked to have a manual for the radio, as I'm not too sure what some of the buttons do, if they do anything at all. There is a DC jack, and a 3-pin JR connector in the battery compartment. It might be possible to run this radio from a 2S LiFe pack, but I haven't found a way to remove the AA tray yet.

To add to what EMU said, mine also seems to have a little notch of resistance in the drivetrain but it doesn't seem severe and has mostly worked itself out just from throttling a few times on my table.

It appears to come standard with AWD211-S aluminum swingshafts and AWD080-V2 ball diffs, which is nice since these will not require upgrades. Threaded aluminum sleeves on the shocks as well. AWD TS rims in 0* narrow all around, don't know what kind of tires.(edit: actually 1.5* narrow)

Mine came set up as 98mm. Comes with an extra main shaft which I am guessing is for 94mm, or it might be exactly the same. It's a little bit strange since EGR lists different spur gear adapters for 94mm and 98mm. (edit: the two different adapters are for use with the optional propeller main shaft. I guess the advantage is that full removal of the upper deck and gear covers is no longer needed for wheelbase changes).

Here is some sort-of good news. After a little trial and error of finding correct pinouts, I got my Hobbywing LED program box working with this AMZ. The connector type for the programming port (and the servo) are the same - I don't know what it is called, but it is a 3-pin version of what is used for the ICS port on Kyosho boards. The Hobbywing 2-in-1 professional program box does not work. Unknown whether or not the newest LCD program box works, I don't have one.

Here is a picture of the default program values:
http://s5.tinypic.com/mcvifo_th.jpg (http://oi41.tinypic.com/mcvifo.jpg)
There was no item 12.

Close-up of the options on the Hobbywing LED program box, and homemade programming cable:
http://s5.tinypic.com/2saif52_th.jpg (http://oi44.tinypic.com/2saif52.jpg) http://s5.tinypic.com/o1qma_th.jpg (http://oi40.tinypic.com/o1qma.jpg)

Homemade balance cable, and adapter for using the 2-cable nano-tech commonly used in Losi micro:
http://s5.tinypic.com/2gx2wef_th.jpg (http://oi42.tinypic.com/2gx2wef.jpg)

Now why I said sort-of good news about the program box working - the items and values for AMZ do not match what's on the sticker for the HW box.
I cycled through the options and this is what I found:
Item # of values (AMZ) # of values (Hobbywing)
1 3 3
2 6 8
3 2 6
4 3 9
5 9 5
6 5 4
7 4 4
8 5 3
9 8 8
10 4 2
11 8 2
12 N/A 6
We still really need someone to provide a clear photograph of the sticker on the AMZ program box. Until then I will leave all settings at default.

edit (body information):
There are two issues with fitting Autoscales, both fixable.
1. the length of protrusion of the side clip interferes with gear mesh - the clip pushes the motor inwards towards the spur gear. This is alleviated by shaving down the side clip slightly.
2. The side clip holders fit slightly wide, spreading out the body. This is solved by cutting a slight notch into the side clip.
No issues with installing the nose clip. Overall a much better fit than the Turnigy TZ4 which I consider to be unusable with Autoscales.

I just noticed each suspension arm has a downstop adjustment screw, just like 1:10. Very cool!

J-Milz
2014.01.25, 05:48 PM
Who has them in stock? I wanna play.

r46
2014.01.25, 09:00 PM
I had looked at the Zippy 350mah cell last night. They look like a viable option for this chassis...

Is the motor for that Losi Truggy 130 sized? Or is it the Micro-T sized one? Sorry for the noob questions, Ive been away from RC for some time :rolleyes:

its a 12mm 30mm long can

EMU
2014.01.25, 10:41 PM
I think the MZR shop will be restocking them soon. They have them for the best price that I have seen.

Very informative post gctkaz! Thanks :)

gctkaz
2014.01.26, 01:46 AM
I changed my wheelbase to 94mm using the included main shaft, to run with my Subaru BRZ body. Kept the original front wheels and tires, changed rear wheels to 0* wide with 20* Kyosho slicks, and installed alloy wheel nuts. So far everything else has been kept the same. The rear of the body rides slightly higher than a real Mini-Z chassis, but not super jacked-up high like the Turnigy TZ4.

Out of the box, there is not much else which can be done. Gear ratio changes will require purchasing optional spurs and pinions, but this comes with a small-ish pinion and a 33T spur which is what I would have done for a brushless setup like this anyway.

I gave it a little test drive on my home track - a very small track so I don't have much opportunity to open the throttle much.

Initial impressions:

- There is a slight delay when flooring the throttle from a standstill, as expected for a sensorless brushless system. Response is excellent once rolling at any speed. Braking power is good, reverse speed endpoint can be adjusted from radio, as can forward throttle endpoint. Minimal reverse delay.

- Turning radius is quite large. May have difficulty in multiple hairpins with 60cm track width, unless the best entry angle into the first hairpin is taken. Should be fine for normal-sized tracks.

- Servo speed is fine. It's not Mini-Z fast, but full-lock to full-lock and back again is only slightly slower than I can turn the radio's wheel without letting it go.

- Suspension is great. My test track at home is old RCP (smooth side) with uneven tile thickness, very bumpy. The car always stayed planted, and went over these bumps unaffected.

- Battery life - can't really tell until tomorrow, but is very promising. I drove with light throttle on this tiny track for what felt like half an hour and topped up the battery. Charger reports 195mAh used.

- Programming port can be tapped as power supply for timing transponders as it supplies regulated 5V - something I was not able to do with the Turnigy TZ4.

I have some servo dimensions. They will not really be exact since they were measured in-place without removing it. Following HobbyKing's axes:
B: 21.4mm
C: 21.2mm
D: 11.6mm
and I guess I took one which would be the height of only the rectangular part: 18.1mm
The height is not really a factor, there looks to be about 3mm of clearance between the servo and the motor. The critical dimensions are B and (A-F).
My measurement of (A-F) is just by eyeball lining up the caliper, at about 8.3mm. Dimension D is not so critical, if you have a thick servo you can probably just widen the holes on the ears.

Track day report tomorrow!

yamar6
2014.01.26, 09:38 AM
it would be nice if they made a brushed version there fast enough and will not have the delay.Also the steering is not tight is it more like the xmod evo and can it be fixed

gctkaz
2014.01.26, 09:44 PM
Today's track layout was very good and flowing, long distance with fast speeds, plenty of opportunity to open the throttle.

First race of the day with 5 or 6 entries, my AMZ finished 4th place overall, but with the same number of laps as the leader (top 4 or 5 all had same laps with the last place down only by one lap), and the fastest lap time of the race. That race was done with the throttle endpoint set at maximum, and altogether the battery lasted about 30 minutes of driving at that setting. When the cutoff kicked in, the car slowed down to a crawl before stopping completely after about 5 more seconds. Not much chance to bring it around to a safe pick-up spot. Hopefully this can be adjusted with the program box. Charger pumped 275mAh back into that battery. Later on I turned down the throttle endpoint and it was better to drive.

A note about the nose clip - the instruction sheet shows a plate sandwiching the nose clip to the lower bulkhead - The screw is not quite long enough when used with the plate, engaging only one or two threads, and a hard impact from another car causes the nose clip to rip right out. So just screw the nose clip directly using the same screw without the plate and there are no problems.

I actually did not drive it much later in the the day. The side clip gear mesh issue came back - it was fine enough driving alone at home, but with other cars on track, an impact to the side pushed the clip into the motor again. Nothing that shaving the clip down even more would not solve, but it is now shaved down by quite a lot.

The bigger issue which put a damper on my enthusiasm for driving the AMZ was that after driving a while, the servo started to not centre itself well. Particularly after turning left, it would remain slightly turned to left, but after turning right, it would return to centre. Simply uncontrollable on long straightaways, alternately bouncing off the walls like a p******. I don't know what it could be, maybe I just need to loosen the servo saver a bit, or in the worst case it's just a servo that doesn't like to centre precisely. Curious that it was fine early in the day.

My other cars were all running beautifully and I was reluctant to stop driving such well-handling cars, so unfortunately the AMZ was a bit neglected. Hopefully I will get the servo sorted out by next meet, since I think that's the only niggle I have left with the car. Still a thumbs up.

TheSteve
2014.01.26, 10:48 PM
Thanks for the update on the car. I really wanted to see it today but couldn't make it. When I had my MRCG's the biggest issue the steering. The small servos could just never take the pain of driving for any length of time. I found I had to open them up and glue the motor and pot in place or they would shift every so slightly. If the pot moves a small amount proper steering trim is lost which can make the car much harder to drive, especially on Mini96. For that reason alone I will probably never have another car with a small servo but still think the AMZ could possibly change my mind. I do know my MA-015 and now MA-020 just keep getting better and better.

CedMan
2014.01.27, 02:42 PM
I have been playing with the car alot the last few days, took it all apart and rebuilt it to become much smoother, after rebuilding it's way better.

didn't have a chance to track it yet but been playing with the TX, hate the TX it comes with :)

I think I might want a different servo and a much better servo safer down the road, I might just go with a new servo and direct horn for now.

911need
2014.01.27, 05:33 PM
I havent received mine yet... But I will let you know what dimensions they are. I have a few cells on the way that I want to try with the MRX that may fit this. Although, they are single cells... I also have the MRX cells, which are about 45x20x10 that I can try...

Once I get the chassis, I will update and let you know.

As far as radio, I really don't think that it is compatible with the KO ASF module... although, it may be possible with the FHSS? More will be known once they are received by the racers. I do want to try to use my Helios at least, or be able to buy a mid level radio for it. I wouldnt want to spend $200 on a radio or module to use the car with advanced functionality...

Hi all just reposting this Qs some what:

Do any of you happen to have a KoPropo FHSS module for your Ko radio that you could try with your new AMZ?
I would get one if it works.

J-Milz
2014.01.27, 05:41 PM
From what I hear. It's not compatible. I'm sure someone will Frankenstein one to work. It's only a matter of time. I have spare asf boards to try.

EMU
2014.01.27, 05:46 PM
I dont have FHSS. Only ASF...

gctkaz
2014.01.27, 06:02 PM
I doubt the KO Propo FHSS module will work, since Atomic would probably need to pay KO royalties for each unit as well as display KO Propo branding, and KO's protocol has not been reverse-engineered to my knowledge.

In my (quite possibly incorrect) opinion, the most likely candidate for compatibility is the Turnigy 3XS or HK-310. Two ways to test this - either buy a radio and see if it binds to the car, or buy a HK-3100 receiver and see if the AMZ radio binds to it.
My other guess would have been Sanwa, but seeing CedMan's post above with a full-size Sanwa receiver leads me to believe that the AMZ itself is not compatible.

It may become irrelevant to myself since personally I am considering to do a full electronics swap to Flysky GR3E + HK 10A + Hitec HS-55 and may order the additional parts tonight. It should cost under $30 and I actually have everything on hand already except for the servo. The servo may have to run with a straight horn and no saver. If it holds up well, at least for a while, then eventually I may try to upgrade it to a HS-5055. If it holds up really well, I won't need to upgrade it at all! Time will tell.

911need
2014.01.27, 08:18 PM
I doubt the KO Propo FHSS module will work, since Atomic would probably need to pay KO royalties for each unit as well as display KO Propo branding, and KO's protocol has not been reverse-engineered to my knowledge.

In my (quite possibly incorrect) opinion, the most likely candidate for compatibility is the Turnigy 3XS or HK-310. Two ways to test this - either buy a radio and see if it binds to the car, or buy a HK-3100 receiver and see if the AMZ radio binds to it.
My other guess would have been Sanwa, but seeing CedMan's post above with a full-size Sanwa receiver leads me to believe that the AMZ itself is not compatible.

It may become irrelevant to myself since personally I am considering to do a full electronics swap to Flysky GR3E + HK 10A + Hitec HS-55 and may order the additional parts tonight. It should cost under $30 and I actually have everything on hand already except for the servo. The servo may have to run with a straight horn and no saver. If it holds up well, at least for a while, then eventually I may try to upgrade it to a HS-5055. If it holds up really well, I won't need to upgrade it at all! Time will tell.

Thanks for the info going to wait on getting one for now as I am going to HK this summer and will check it out when I get there. Thanks again.

gctkaz
2014.01.28, 03:51 AM
I managed to get a servo from a local store today, so I went ahead to do my electronics swap with the rest of the items I had on hand.

Starting with a FlySky FS-GT3E receiver, I removed all straight headers, replaced channels 1 & 2 with right-angle headers to lower the profile, added a bind button to channel 3, and replaced the long coaxial antenna with a stranded wire cut to 31mm. Later on I added a 5V tap to Ch.3 for powering a lap timing transponder.
http://s5.tinypic.com/ab7dqb_th.jpg (http://i43.tinypic.com/ab7dqb.jpg)

A Hitec HS-55 servo was installed - the inside of the servo holder had to be shaved to fit the wider servo. Also, the ears had to be shaved to prevent rubbing against the main shaft on one side, and sticking out past the wheel on the other side. A straight servo horn was used, first drilling out a hole using a 1.5mm bit for the steering link screw. Next, a HobbyKing XC-10A ESC had its wires replaced/shortened. The motor wires were replaced with silicon wire terminated in 2.0mm bullets - not ideal due to space usage but I did not have those Losi-type connectors on hand.
http://s5.tinypic.com/jredz6_th.jpg (http://i39.tinypic.com/jredz6.jpg)


The ESC can be programmed with a card:
http://s5.tinypic.com/iep3y8_th.jpg (http://i40.tinypic.com/iep3y8.jpg)
More about programming later.

Front overhead view:
http://s5.tinypic.com/2i205jo_th.jpg (http://i41.tinypic.com/2i205jo.jpg)

This was bound to my KO Propo EX-1UR with a FlySky FS-TM002 module as done for the Turnigy TZ4 here (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=448800&postcount=21).

This ESC has some fine programming adjustments, the cutoff voltage and start power percent can be set in increments of 0.1. However, it cogs quite badly when there is any amount of load on the motor. The only remedy I have found is to set the start power percent as high as allowed (29.0%). There is still some cogging at startup, but at least the car is able to get moving as opposed to how it was at the default 0.0%. This was all done desktop, so I have no track driving experience with this setup yet. If the ESC turns out to be unusable due to excessive cogging, I may try replacing it with a Hobbywing EZRUN 18A, but space and weight may become problematic. Just slightly strange since it did not seem to cog as badly (or at all) with a lightly loaded 1230 motor, even with item 2 set to 0.0%.

All this just to use my KO Propo radio with it! :o

Mad Trix
2014.01.28, 07:22 AM
Little hack from a german AMZ User ;)

The original RX/ESC is just connected by 3 solder points.

http://up.picr.de/17188161zr.jpg

just unsolder the RX part (left one) and connect the ESC (right board) to the CH2 of a RX of your choice.

http://up.picr.de/17189789dm.jpg

http://up.picr.de/17189790te.jpg

only thing left is to pack it up a little nicer ;)

http://up.picr.de/17189791tp.jpg

Have fun by using your own control ;)

EMU
2014.01.28, 11:31 AM
The shop at MZR has restocked the chassis and added some option/replacement parts (and battery) for those that are interested.

Mad Trix: Thank you for sharing... So you can use the ESC with any RX you please? GREAT!!!

gctkaz
2014.01.28, 01:44 PM
Mad Trix that is fantastic!! What a way to introduce yourself to the forum, welcome and thank you! I will do this right away :)

Mad Trix
2014.01.28, 03:14 PM
It's a pleasure to help you guys!
I gave it a try yesterday because the rtr transmitter sucks :)

Was a fifty/fifty thing because my multimeter is broken.

Hey and a little introduction from myself:
Name is Daniel, i live near Stuttgart Germany and be a 1:10 Drifter. Sold my AWD 27Mhz to buy the AMZ as a Livingroom Drifter. This is the only way i move this fancy little thing: sideways! Found your forums by reading on fusselflitzer.de AMZ section, so i thought i share this litte breaktrough with you guys.

And please excuse my bad english, last lessons are long time ago ;)

J-Milz
2014.01.28, 04:19 PM
Your bad English is better than my good German any day.:D Lol! Is it possible to solder an ASF board to this board? I love my eurus and really don't wanna bother learning a new radio.

Mad Trix
2014.01.28, 04:35 PM
Sure you can connect any reciver to the esc!
Just think of it as an ordinary RC ESC, solder some wires on the right part (concerning to my first pic above) of the AMZ electronic and this is exactly what it is ;)

Also you can still use the little board (left) as an reciver for the RTR TX.

So give me your best shot of german next time :D

Felix2010
2014.01.28, 05:02 PM
Mad Trix - Thank you very much for sharing the Receiver swap-out info !! Very cool! :cool:

Welcome to the forum!

mleemor60
2014.01.28, 05:43 PM
Now just work out conversions for FHSS to ASF and DSM-2 back to DSM and all will be right with the world.

Welcome to the forum.

CedMan
2014.01.28, 10:13 PM
here's mine in latest ... it's now connected to a Futaba receiver so I can just use one TX my 4PK to control both the regular Mini-z and this little guy

Also the programmer, I think someone was looking for it.

CedMan
2014.01.28, 10:16 PM
here's the programmer

EMU
2014.01.28, 10:28 PM
Thanks for posting the programmer info... Hard to read the timing values with the flash :rolleyes:

That car looks really nice and clean!!! Get it dirty on the track and let us know how it goes :P

gctkaz
2014.01.28, 11:32 PM
Thank you so much for posting the programmer picture, CedMan, you are a hero!

By the way, for those of you without the programming box, the ESC can still be programmed using the on-board button and the LED blinks. I haven't tried it all but while messing around I inadvertently changed the running mode to forward/brake only, and changed it back to forward/brake/reverse.

I believe if you hold down the button at startup, and let it go while the red LED is flashing, it goes into throttle range calibration, which I had to do when first using my EX-1UR.

If you hold down the button longer, a green LED flashes once and that is programming mode. The number of green LED flashes is the item number, and the number of red flashes is the option value. Long beep means 5.
Keep holding down the button until the number of green flashes matches the item you want. Short press to change the value. You must power down and start again to choose a different item.

edit:
Here's my new config, thanks to information from Mad Trix and CedMan.
http://i59.tinypic.com/adghfm_th.jpg (http://i59.tinypic.com/adghfm.jpg)

A few settings were changed using the button, just to check that it was possible, and the rest were done with my HW program box.
I changed the cutoff to 3.2V per cell, max forward force to 100%, and timing to 0*. It has plenty of speed as it is so I can use this setting and dial back on the radio, hopefully keeping the motor cool and runtime long.
I drove around a small test track for more than half an hour, the car still had juice when I stopped. Battery voltage was 7.42V, and this was a battery which somehow had been overdischarged to under 3V when testing the different ESCs earlier in the day. Can't wait to let it rip again at the next track day.

CedMan
2014.01.29, 12:57 AM
lol didn't notice the reflection ...

here's the last settings,

11. Timing
1) 0
2) 3.75
3) 7.5
4) 11.25
5) 15
6) 18.75
7) 22.5
8) 26.25

I'm so surprised that it has timing adjustment like this, feels like my 1/10 and it should make the 5000kv motor super fast.

lol can't wait to test it all out.

Mrs Mini-Z
2014.01.29, 07:35 AM
Hi All!
Just wanted to let you know that we have gotten our hands on some more of the AMZ car (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=22673&cat=0&page=1&featured), as well as some stock and option (http://shop.tinyrc.com/home.php?cat=570) parts. :)

This does include the Battery (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=22691&cat=570&page=1), Balance Charging Cord (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=22692&cat=570&page=1), and the ESC Program Card (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=22703&cat=0&page=1).

We'll keep adding parts as they become available. If you have any questions, please email me at shophelp@tinyrc.com. :)

Thanks!
Meridith :)

Mattthegenus
2014.01.29, 05:13 PM
Hi All!
Just wanted to let you know that we have gotten our hands on some more of the AMZ car (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=22673&cat=0&page=1&featured), as well as some stock and option (http://shop.tinyrc.com/home.php?cat=570) parts. :)

This does include the Battery (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=22691&cat=570&page=1), Balance Charging Cord (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=22692&cat=570&page=1), and the ESC Program Card (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=22703&cat=0&page=1).

We'll keep adding parts as they become available. If you have any questions, please email me at shophelp@tinyrc.com. :)

Thanks!
Meridith :)

Just ordered mine, can't wait to give it a rip! :)

jin2
2014.02.02, 05:37 PM
http://www.shop.tinyrc.com/product.p...age=1&featured

HighFreq
2014.02.04, 12:01 PM
Here is my new baby.

-Stock esc (taken out of the case)
-Sanwa rx
-MKS 95 digital servo
-Some upgrades

J-Milz
2014.02.04, 12:13 PM
Looks good. What do you think you have into it thus far? Can you arrange to have it work with a ko or asf brand Rx?

targetingxmod
2014.02.05, 11:11 AM
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34117&d=1390965179

So It will be easy to put any receiver in that! That is good news for that 1/28 rc car and it's company who made it, that will sell even more then the RTR stuff company's trow at us... A little Diy and it's done.

The big question that concerns me, is still this... CAN WE use ASF Radios on that RC?
I know that should be possible using the Miniz mr03 VE board... but can be done somewhere else like that photo i post it? (it is not mine but and have a futaba receiver wired to the stock ESC)

Bodom
2014.02.10, 12:06 PM
Our club ordered one test unit.
I had the chance to play with it and I am kind of disappointed :rolleyes:
It has some severe deviations in the shock holder plates...

http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq194/Bodom_photos/Atomic%20AMZ/DSC_6030_zpsa08cc9a6.jpg
This is the rear end..

And this is the front.
http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq194/Bodom_photos/Atomic%20AMZ/DSC_6038_zps807a246b.jpg

On the track (RCP smooth side) I failed to make it grip at the rear end like my other Mini-Z cars.
The servo is not centering well and on the long straight it is hard to make it go straight.. It starts fine and then decides to coast to the left or to the right.
I had the exact same problems mounting an autoscale.. I had to trim the side clips.. and even that way - after some impacts it looses gear mesh..

If it was mine - I would change the shock towers to aluminum trying to solve the problem with the crooked shock towers.
I would change the servo and maybe the electronics as well.
I would change the motor holder piece with aluminum as well..

And to me - it is not worthed.. :rolleyes:

I was using Atomic VDS body:
http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq194/Bodom_photos/Atomic%20AMZ/DSC_6028_zpsae076738.jpg

gctkaz
2014.02.10, 03:26 PM
Bodom, that sucks about those shock towers. About the side clips messing up the mesh, you need to file them down even more, until there are no problems even when squeezing the body very hard.

For the steering issue, I had the same thing and just replaced the servo and receiver with an Hitec HS-55. I will not have a chance to test it fully until next weekend, but at home I am also running on smooth RCP with Kyosho 20* wide in the back, grip seems fine for me.

What you can try to do for now is to ditch the servo saver and run with a solid horn and see if it centres any better.

And good God targetingxmod can you please shrink your images a bit? ;)

CedMan
2014.02.11, 06:08 PM
I have done exactly that this last weekend, and I broke the servo :)

Good because the stock one is crap. I"m looking for a good replacement.

Bodom, that sucks about those shock towers. About

What you can try to do for now is to ditch the servo saver and run with a solid horn and see if it centres any better.

vobele
2014.02.12, 04:35 AM
Bodom, the deviations in the shock holder plates should be corrected by reattaching them in the correct position / tighten the screws. Or use the optional aluminium hop ups if you like. The same may apply to the missing grip at the rear end which could be a result of lack in wheel ground contact due to screws and hollow balls not assembled very well.

Some cars seem to not be very carefully screwed together, probably caused by the time pressure to be in marked without too much delay. :rolleyes:

But these things can be fixed quite well.

Bodom
2014.02.12, 09:04 AM
Bodom, the deviations in the shock holder plates should be corrected by reattaching them in the correct position / tighten the screws. Or use the optional aluminium hop ups if you like. The same may apply to the missing grip at the rear end which could be a result of lack in wheel ground contact due to screws and hollow balls not assembled very well.

Some cars seem to not be very carefully screwed together, probably caused by the time pressure to be in marked without too much delay. :rolleyes:

But these things can be fixed quite well.

I thought the same way when I first took the car for a look around.
The shock tower's screw holes are cone-shaped.. and the screws are with cone-shaped heads.. That leaves no place to correct the plate position once the screw is tightened.
The pictures above are taken after my revision / disassemble - reassemble of the car.
So my opinion is that this is not assembly issue rather than part quality control issue.
I tested the car with Kyosho racing radial tires (as seen on pictures) - 10R / 20F. And as I had no 30F tires - I tried to compensate with softening the rear suspension, and after that hardening the front.. Which gave some more rear grip but not enough..

DMALMAD
2014.02.15, 03:29 PM
20's on the front are not going to work especially on an awd car it already has more steering without the added softer compound.

Bodom
2014.02.18, 04:47 AM
20's on the front are not going to work especially on an awd car it already has more steering without the added softer compound.

Thanks for the advice.
I am new to the RCP surface.
I run my MA-010 with 10R Racing radials and 20F Slicks and it works fine. So I guessed the tires based on my MA-010 experience but didn't have slicks available for the front. :rolleyes:

Kikerumbo
2014.02.18, 06:32 AM
Hi everyone!

I bought an AMZ. Then I ordered, on 20th January, 3 batteries. But I'm still waiting.

So tired of waiting and because I need practice, after seeing that you can attach any receiver, I've been thinking if you can use the VRC-Pro USB adapter with the AMZ's receiver.

So I detach the receiver from the ESC. Then I soldered one of the USB adapter cables to the 3 soldering points where the ESC was. White wire (signal) to the place with a "S", the red wire (positive) to the center and the black wire (negative) where the minus "-" sign is.

After that I found this: http://www.bpesolutions.com/atechnical/ServoWire.Code.pdf

And then soldered the other three wires from the USB adapter to the servo connector of the receiver.

Well, finally I turn on the AT-1 transmitter and plug the adapter into the PC. It recognizes the adapter and the receiver has power. Both had a red light. After a few seconds, the receiver light turns to green. Great!

I log into the VRC-Pro and go to the settings. The channels "shake". I mean, they aren't steady. So I look to the receiver and it's changing the light from green to red, from red to green... :(

It seems like if it gets the transmitter and then lose it...

- Do you have any idea what's happening? Or if this can be done?
- Does the AMZ radio system work fine the first time or is there any kind of pairing sequence?
- Does anyone know how to use the three buttons (RF-TEST, F/S and the rectangular black button under them?

Thanks and I promise as soon as my batteries arrive, that I'll post the "impressions" about this little devil.

By the way, I'm from Spain and my english isn't so good. So excuse me, please.

Kikerumbo
2014.02.18, 07:01 AM
Hi everyone, again! :)

Answering my own questions...

The soldering of the adapter cables was good. You can use the transmitter for other purposes if you change it for something better (personally I'll try a Sanwa MX-V, maybe next month).

And for the next two questions, Atomic finally released the manual. Here it's: http://www.mini-voiture-rc.com/pdf/radio-amz.pdf

So, you can use the VRC-Pro adapter with the AMZ receiver. Sweet!

Keep the spirit up!!! Cheers!!!

Kikerumbo
2014.02.21, 03:37 PM
Hi!

What kind of connectors are the ESC using? The one for the battery is a Micro E-Flight, but the ones for the 3rd channel, servo and ESC programming...

I bought a Multifunction LCD Program Box and I want to try it on the AMZ ESC. Is there anyone who know the cable connection for the ESC programming port? "+" in the center, but "-" and "S" I don't know. Looking the car from the rear, center pin with left pin = 1.82v. Center pin with right pin = 5.02v. So I suppose that looking it from the rear, the pins are "S" left, "+" center and "-" right but would love to have confirmation before frying the ESC. :D

I could only connect the battery and do some slow runs on my home circuit, but what I can tell is that this servo looks very bad, way too slow, not centering well.

The turning radio of the steering is poor too, it takes many space to turn 180º. Not an issue on +60cm lanes I suppose. Also it seems to turn more to one side than other (I'll have to check the servo arm and see if it's centered with the servo).

Change the servo isn't a expensive thing, since there are digital servos for 20$, but the connector is the problem. I don't want to be forced to buy the Atomic one since there are other attractive things like the Spektrum SPMSH3020.

As soon as my Audi R8 body arrives, I'll make some serious tests.

Thanks for the info!!!

gctkaz
2014.02.22, 03:31 AM
What kind of connectors are the ESC using? The one for the battery is a Micro E-Flight, but the ones for the 3rd channel, servo and ESC programming...

I bought a Multifunction LCD Program Box and I want to try it on the AMZ ESC. Is there anyone who know the cable connection for the ESC programming port? "+" in the center, but "-" and "S" I don't know. Looking the car from the rear, center pin with left pin = 1.82v. Center pin with right pin = 5.02v. So I suppose that looking it from the rear, the pins are "S" left, "+" center and "-" right but would love to have confirmation before frying the ESC. :D

Picture of a Hobbywing LED program box connected here:
http://s5.tinypic.com/o1qma_th.jpg (http://oi40.tinypic.com/o1qma.jpg) Yellow wire is the signal, so your guess is correct.
The servo and programming connector, I don't know what it's called but it's the same pitch as whatever is used for Kyosho ICS connector. I actually got a pack of the 3-pin connectors from HobbyKing, but I am able to buy them from local supply as well.

Do you have the newest version of LCD program box? There's a chance it might not work. I have the older version and it did not work, but my LED program box does. Let us know how it goes for you.

Kikerumbo
2014.02.22, 05:44 AM
My Turnigy Multifunction LCD Program Box is at v1.14_130513-0. The updater is giving an older version, so I guess is the lastest version. I contacted with Hobbywing hoping they can tell me if an update is incoming.

Total failure. Red blinking light on the ESC. I suppose I can use this LCD Program Box as a LiPo Battery Voltmeter and buy a Hobbywing LED program box.

By the way, the connectors are "JST ZH" with 3 pins and 1.5mm between them.

Thanks for the info gctkaz.

NoBrainer
2014.02.23, 09:35 AM
Is there any option parts for just running RWD or FWD?

Kikerumbo
2014.02.23, 11:40 AM
Hi NoBrainer.

You can take out the differential, the central shaft and the shafts from the differential to the wheels and you will have a RWD car.

No options needed.

There are one-ways for the front axle, and that's an option I'll try.

Cheers!

vobele
2014.02.23, 03:50 PM
Hi Kikerumbo

what I can tell is that this servo looks very bad, way too slow, not centering well

What I can tell is that it's not the servo. It’s the receiver which is crap, I’m sorry to say this, but I had my hands of not less than three AMZ in the meanwhile. All three cars had their minor weaknesses which could be fixed fairly easy, but the rx remains a major drawback as long as it doesn’t get ripped out and replaced (or improved by Atomic). Swapping the rtr servo with a faster digital or analogue servo doesn’t bring much improvement as long as they are supplied by the rtr rx. Securing the servo in its place, fine-tuning left and right servo travel end points and taking out the servo safer will lead to some better steering precision and centering. But in the end, only after taking out the rx and installing a DSM2 or anything reasonable, you will notice how fast and precise this car can be moved – even with the stock servo still installed! Look at p8 #107 in this thread, buy a small receiver of your choice which works with your controller and install it instead of the rtr rx. I love this car but I guess it won’t be a successful sale as song as Atomic doesn’t improve something on the rx side.

Kikerumbo
2014.02.23, 04:02 PM
vobele, thanks for that info. It'll safe me some testing time.

So, before change the servo, I'll change the RTR ESC+receiver with a ESC and a separate receiver, I suppose it will be the MX-V one. That's mooore money. This car is stepping far from the 250€... :(

Any advice about the ESC?

Thanks!

EMU
2014.02.23, 10:26 PM
Hi Kikerumbo



What I can tell is that it's not the servo. It’s the receiver which is crap, I’m sorry to say this, but I had my hands of not less than three AMZ in the meanwhile. All three cars had their minor weaknesses which could be fixed fairly easy, but the esc remains a major drawback as long as it doesn’t get ripped out and replaced (or improved by Atomic). Swapping the rtr servo with a faster digital or analogue servo doesn’t bring much improvement as long as they are supplied by the rtr esc. Securing the servo in its place, fine-tuning left and right servo travel end points and taking out the servo safer will lead to some better steering precision and centering. But in the end, only after taking out the esc and installing a DSM2 or anything reasonable, you will notice how fast and precise this car can be moved – even with the stock servo still installed! Look at p8 #107 in this thread, buy a small receiver of your choice which works with your controller and install it instead of the rtr esc . I love this car but I guess it won’t be a successful sale as song as Atomic doesn’t improve something on the esc side.

Is the receiver the issue, or is it the transmitter?

Splitting the ESC from the RX as mentioned earlier in this thread may be of use as to not having to buy a new ESC, while replacing the RX to one that is supported by your radio.

I personally only have a Helios, and only have the ASF module... so I need to get a new module/RX, or a new radio altogether if I were to switch to a different RX.

Mike.b54
2014.02.24, 02:56 AM
Hi Emu,

Just watch the video posted by Snowboarder38,
http://www.minizfrance.com/t3688p570-chassis-amz-4wd-by-atomic#62046
And
http://i55.servimg.com/u/f55/13/52/56/76/15111010.jpg
The longest is the prototype, shorter is final product
We are also waiting for this rx...in mars...

dameetz
2014.02.24, 09:18 AM
Hi Kikerumbo



What I can tell is that it's not the servo. It’s the receiver which is crap, I’m sorry to say this, but I had my hands of not less than three AMZ in the meanwhile. All three cars had their minor weaknesses which could be fixed fairly easy, but the esc remains a major drawback as long as it doesn’t get ripped out and replaced (or improved by Atomic). Swapping the rtr servo with a faster digital or analogue servo doesn’t bring much improvement as long as they are supplied by the rtr esc. Securing the servo in its place, fine-tuning left and right servo travel end points and taking out the servo safer will lead to some better steering precision and centering. But in the end, only after taking out the esc and installing a DSM2 or anything reasonable, you will notice how fast and precise this car can be moved – even with the stock servo still installed! Look at p8 #107 in this thread, buy a small receiver of your choice which works with your controller and install it instead of the rtr esc . I love this car but I guess it won’t be a successful sale as song as Atomic doesn’t improve something on the esc side.

I m a little confuse here, is it the rx side or the esc side of the ESC+RX which is no good?

EMU
2014.02.24, 10:28 AM
Hi Emu,

Just watch the video posted by Snowboarder38,
http://www.minizfrance.com/t3688p570-chassis-amz-4wd-by-atomic#62046
And
http://i55.servimg.com/u/f55/13/52/56/76/15111010.jpg
The longest is the prototype, shorter is final product
We are also waiting for this rx...in mars...

That looks very nice :) Any idea when it would be available, cost, and if there are any distributors in the US?

Kikerumbo
2014.02.24, 12:56 PM
As Mike.b54 said, it's released in March.

As for the ESC+RX that comes with the AMZ, it seems to me that the bad side is the RX since it's too slow.

All this people modding and racing serious are keeping the stock Hobbywing ESC.

By the way, where did you get those allen screws that looks like titanium, "targetingxmod"? Philips screws suck badly...

vobele
2014.02.24, 04:32 PM
I m a little confuse here, is it the rx side or the esc side of the ESC+RX which is no good?

Uuuuh BIG SORRY to all for the typo, I meant the RX which is no good!! :o

Again: SORRY! You can let the esc in place and wire it up with any rx, I took a Orange DRX GR300 in one case and a Spektrum SR3500 in another case, both worked flawless with my Spektrum DX3C Radio and the stock esc.

Kikerumbo
2014.02.24, 05:03 PM
Hi "vobele".

What about the stock servo speed and centering? It improves with the change of receiver?

Thanks.

vobele
2014.02.25, 02:07 AM
What about the stock servo speed and centering? It improves with the change of receiver?

Yes definitely! That's exactly what I meant. Don't waste your money like me by first buying different servos just to try out if they might improve steering speed and centering. Better take the money right away and buy a small ground receiver for your radio, install it and you will notice how fast and precise the stock servo can work.

targetingxmod
2014.02.27, 06:43 AM
Hi Emu,

Just watch the video posted by Snowboarder38,
http://www.minizfrance.com/t3688p570-chassis-amz-4wd-by-atomic#62046
And
http://i55.servimg.com/u/f55/13/52/56/76/15111010.jpg
The longest is the prototype, shorter is final product
We are also waiting for this rx...in mars...

I do not believe this... (people see this and do not talk about this??) this is more important then the AMZ car byitself!!

Using a ASF module/radio with the Atomic AMZ car?
Is that what those videos are showing? HOW?
I guess when this will be public it will sell more receivers then the atomic amz itself.....

Miniz guys outhere are just waiting for that... for give use of their ASF modules/radios!!

gctkaz
2014.02.27, 01:49 PM
Indeed, I cannot tell too much but it looks like the French have custom-designed an ASF-compatible receiver? It still needs to be used in combination with the HW (or I suppose any) brushless ESC. That is going to be an huge breakthrough since I have not heard of anybody having reverse-engineered ASF before.

And what is with this comment from that forum?
Trop de la balle, c'est ça qu'il me faut, c'est plus discret que mon cheesburger!

arch2b
2014.02.27, 02:09 PM
even i would be interested if there was an ASF version... nice catch, to bad google sucks at translating accurately.

TheSteve
2014.02.27, 03:05 PM
I don't think reverse engineering ASF would be that tough for someone with some MCU experience, it has likely never been done simply due to lack of interest. The ASF system uses a very common 2.4ghz chip, same as Spektrum and many other companies.

From the looks the video someone has finally done it, I believe he indicates it is still in beta.

targetingxmod
2014.02.28, 07:56 AM
even i would be interested if there was an ASF version... nice catch, to bad google sucks at translating accurately.

I have that opinion to...

They cannot fight the supramacy ASF had become in the mini-z scene. So why not join them and sell like hot cakes?

An ASF 2.4ghz version of that AMZ car electrics will be more sellable then hot babes for free!

Or why not AMZ makes an ASF receiver to wire to the already ESC/combo!?

That's what big companies do... trow out junk, or midle stuff, for the customer to buy high end from them in the end....

targetingxmod
2014.03.25, 01:22 PM
Well it's already here!
http://www.technicalrp.es/catalog/gogolap-propo-receptor-asf-para-128-amz-p-44228.html

The ASF receiver for the Atomic AMZ car!

Done! Now my KoPro ASF miniz Radio can use the Atomic AMZ car!

WELL DONE!

http://www.technicalrp.es/catalog/includes/visu_imagen.php?tipo=archivo&adaptar_a_lienzo=0&imagen=%2Fcatalog%2Fimages%2FGP0003.jpg&anchura_max=364&altura_max=210

Kikerumbo
2014.03.25, 03:22 PM
Hi people.

Do you know how to setup the ESC to a new receiver? EPA... etc.

I don't know where is the maximum point of "travel" for acceleration, neither the brake or reverse.

I'm trying to use a MT-4 receiver. Servo works fine (it's a Savox SH-0262MG, sweet), but the ESC works only on forward, no reverse. That's why I'm asking.

Now... give and you shall receive, so:

To share some info about this little "devil", here go my thoughts:

:mad: It's a must to change the following parts: :mad:
---Central shaft and holder (the stock one spins aluminum vs plastic).
---Aluminum Steering Block (stock ones, at least mines, came with some degrees difference making impossible to setup the camber right)
---Motor Mount (with the stock one you have to add something to ensure the motor doesn't move while running, causing the pinion and the spur to be too tight)
---Aluminum Shock Stays (stock ones are or will bent and the screw holes will get flat too quick not letting attack the shocks)
---Aluminum Center Servo Mount (plastic one will bent)
---Digital Servo (stock servo simply is not up to the task, it will not center well and the speed is a little bit short)
---Rear differential (TAR is a good/cheap option, but it must be paired with ceramic balls).

The most important, it's the servo and you should order a digital one at the same time as the car.

The setup parts, are obvious, but for the shocks, MR-03 and MA-010 I.A.S springs will fit and give you all the setup options you need for the shocks. Some silicon oil around 1000 will give you the dampening effect.

Other optional parts are only to make it "cool", more, that's it.

Rolling over is an issue with this car on high grip surfaces. The lack of "up stops" will let the chassis to hit the track at an angle, causing it to roll over. I found this washers ( http://www.hobbyease.com/26mm-washer-50pcs_p830.html ) that fit the shock shafts and don't touch the springs to setup the "up stops".

Also, I'm sure you will notice the "play" between the wheel and the steering blocks. This is because the shafts are 1mm larger than the wheels can accommodate. I used a 4x6x1 (millimeters) washer in the inner side of the inner ball bearing.

Well, that's what I can tell you now. More tests to come. Waiting for a "one-way" to switch the frontal differential and trying to find out if the Kyosho Mini-Z Route 246 R246 Individual Oil Shock Front End Set will fit, since an oil shock will make this little car "whole" like a miniaturized 1/10 touring car (still missing caster setup, but well, maybe that's asking too much).

Really missing a 64/128 pitch spur/pinion o make it smooth. Do you thing other brands like PN Racing... etc will make parts for the AMZ? Will time will provide some more improvements?

Actually running with an Audi R8 LMS and a Ferrari 458 GT2 incomming.

:confused:I hope someone can answer the ESC setup, because with that ASF receiver, this will be a recurrent issue.:confused:

Excuse me for my bad english.

Have fun!!!

r46
2014.03.25, 06:47 PM
Self-answering my question about the ESC, this ESC seems to not accept the 70/30 so you must setup your transmitter to 50/50.

About the EPA for throttle, I just raised it until no more revs from the motor can be heard. Not very accurate, I know.

I'm curious about what the button on the ESC does, any clue?

Enjoy!!!

new radio too esc requires recalibrating which is done by the button your curious about!

those whom own/ used any hobbywing esc's amz calibrates exactly same :p

how to calibrate:

1; plug in battery (switch must be in off position)

b; turn on radio an set ch2 epa to 100% (forward n reverse)

2; press an hold down esc button whilst powering on (there will be some beeps an red led flashing) release button

now entered calibation mode :)

first input is neutral: press esc button to set (led will flash/beep once)

second input thottle: apply full thottle on trigger an hold then press esc button to set( 2 flash/ beep)

third input brake/reverse: apply full brake an hold now press esc button to set (3 flash/ beeps)

switch off car then switch on again
now calibrated to own radio :D


To get next for mine be alloy hubs, towers an springs

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04864_zpsad85735d.jpg

got moslar on
http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04865_zpsf311aca8.jpg

be using megane trophy 2010 body once sprayed it

Kikerumbo
2014.03.26, 04:33 AM
What can I say r46? Worked like a charm.

The ESC and the Sanwa MT-4 work fine together and with 70/30.

Thanks!!!

Kikerumbo
2014.03.27, 05:09 PM
Hi everyone!

My AMZ is giving me some more good news.

The car stopped and that typical smell of the fried electronics came from the ESC. The ESC is fried, so...

What do you think will be a good ESC?

I saw this options:

(Castle Creations Sidewinter Micro) http://www.castlecreations.com/products/sidewinder_micro.html (around 60$)
(Hobbywing EZRUN-25A-L) http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=261 (28$)
(HobbyKing XC-10A ESC) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23766__hobbyking_brushless_car_esc_10a_w_reverse .html (around 12$)

I'm inclined to get the Hobbywing or the Hobbyking since I already have the programming card for those. But I don't really know if the other are worth the investment, if the HobbyKing XC-10A ESC will burn if I change the motor or if there are other options out there.

Can you advice any in particular? This ones or others. Money is always an issue, but I prefer to spend 60$ if it's worth than spend 30$ and have issues. Size and weight are "issues".

Thanks in advance.

Bye, bye!

r46
2014.03.28, 08:31 AM
Nice 1 on sorting radio! Shame about ESC , the 25a ezrun is tall profile for Z bodys, best to use ezrun / turnigy 18a or track star 25a as low profile but the mamba 25/ sidewinder would be very nice :D may fit mine if ESC fails

http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=259

trackstar 25a
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14630__Turnigy_TrackStar_25A_1_18th_Scale_Brushl ess_Car_ESC.html

gctkaz
2014.03.29, 02:57 AM
I tried the HobbyKing XC-10A with the Atomic 5000kV motor and it cogs terribly. Practically unusable. I would suggest a HobbyWing EZRUN 18A instead, though you may need to de-case it for fit.

I was having serious problems with servo centering, but during the last meet I simply tightened up all screws in the steering linkages, and there was still a tiny bit of drift but much less than before. I did not test it much beyond that since I went back to the narrow rear wheels and did not have enough traction to make it an enjoyable drive.

r46
2014.03.29, 03:20 AM
no need to decase ezrun 18A fits under body nice just need to have short wires :)

Kikerumbo
2014.03.29, 10:36 AM
Hi,

gctkaz, did you try to change the "start mode" and "throttle curve"?

I had one guy at the club that lend one to me and the car is "cogging" (don't know how to write it right, sorry) from a stopped start, but if you push it to start to move, it runs ok. So that tells me is the "start mode" that is set too soft.

The problem is that for some reason I can't enter into the "program mode" and I don't have a program card that works with this ESC.

gctkaz
2014.03.29, 03:04 PM
Yes, with the XC-10A I had to set the throttle adjustments to the highest settings, which reduced the cogging but there was still some, and the result was a car which was not smooth to accelerate and without any fine throttle control at the trigger. Not recommended.

Kikerumbo
2014.03.29, 03:18 PM
Thank gctkaz.

Knowing that, an EZRun 18A is on the way.

dameetz
2014.03.30, 01:26 AM
Thank gctkaz.

Knowing that, an EZRun 18A is on the way.

Please make a review and post pics of it here after you install and test it.

Thanks

Kikerumbo
2014.03.30, 04:57 AM
Consider it done. :)

r46
2014.04.05, 08:51 PM
Just slapped some colour on body quick job :)

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04877_zps6c3a98be.jpg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04874_zps775a2241.jpg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04873_zps46f8325e.jpg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04876_zpscd7f783e.jpg

dameetz
2014.04.08, 10:32 PM
Just slapped some colour on body quick job :)

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04877_zps6c3a98be.jpg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04874_zps775a2241.jpg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04873_zps46f8325e.jpg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04876_zpscd7f783e.jpg

Nice.... What are the wheel offset for that body?

dameetz
2014.04.08, 10:51 PM
Got a few questions:

- Is the ball diff assembly the same dimension as Kyosho's? ( gearwise and it is a direct drop in)
- If its the same size, has anyone tried using a front one way for Kyosho car, how is the handling?
- What wheel offset should I buy to use F430, R8 and F458 bodies? I know their offset if i want to use it with my MR03, I m not sure if its the same for an AMZ chassis.
- Do you guys replace the stock servo to a better one? Can you recommend which one is good?
-Can something be done to make it a little bit silent and flowing (less drag brake effect)
- Lastly, can you guys share your set up for racing on smooth side RCP?

Thanks in advance.

r46
2014.04.09, 04:04 PM
[QUOTE=dameetz;451370]Nice.... What are the wheel offset for that body?[/QUOE]

+3 front
+3 rear

I'm using +2 on front
Kyosho radials but to grippy
3 racing awd solid diff on front
One way diff (if get in drift mood)
Standard ball diff rear
Reprogrammed ESC with card: took drag brake off,increased power as factory set is 60% power. Can program ESC by button.

I'm looking to get alloy hubs an towers so can get my cambers all matching, springs, I may upgrade servo if still slow after RX/tx swap.

dameetz
2014.04.15, 02:44 AM
What type of connector is the batt? I m trying to find some to make some packs and charging leads.

art3ria
2014.04.15, 06:38 AM
it needs a better servo. and betters swing-shaft, one of my swing shaft has broken in the first wheel change..
For drift is fine, because brusless has a soft throtle than brushed, is more easy do CounterSteer , for stage 1 dont need own moded Centershaft.
i cant understand why it isnt 90mm too.

I have to take some Dif case to do some mods to get mor steering angle and mor akerman.

Atomic We need a front motor RWD with a lot of steering angle to drift :) it is easy to do with the base of this chasis.

Kikerumbo
2014.04.15, 04:19 PM
Here I post some pics of the AMZ with the Sanwa MT-4 receiver with telemetry (just temp for now as RPM sensor is too big and the space is so little) and the Hobbywing EZrun-18A. As you can see, it's a tight fit. I had to make a "holder" from aluminium for the receiver. Also some soldering to cut wires and fit new connectors.

The telemetry is nice and the ESC works fine, as smooth as you can hope being sensor-less, smoother than the stock and with more options to set it up. The Savox servo is so fast that I had to "slow" it a bit and it's very smooth and precise. Any other will do a better job than the stock one and it's a "must" if you want to race.

It has a frontal one-way from Atomic and a rear T.A.R diff with ceramic balls (big improvement from the stock diff). I like the times with the frontal one-way but I have to run more with it as I'm not too comfortable not being able to brake on the front, yet. You can fit any Kyosho MA-010 or AWD differential, spool or one-way. It will need some shims/washers, but they are provided, at least in Atomic.

I'm using an Audi R8 LMS with +4 front and +3.5 rear offsets and a Ferrari 458 GT2 with the same offsets. A little bit of trimming is needed, easy to do.

Changing the motor mount and the central shaft holder makes it smoother, but with those big 48 pitch pinions and gears it is not possible to make it "silent". Pitch 64 or 128 will be a future option I hope.

As for the setup. I did not run on a RCP track yet as the track at our club is made of "sport" foam and it's a bit strange. Not worth sharing as it's going to be useless for other tracks. If anyone want to know it, just ask.

Now trying to do an anti-roll bar, but as you can see, the space is an issue.

Share your info and pictures!!! :):p;)

TheSteve
2014.04.15, 04:25 PM
Nice pics!
Looks like it is time to break out the soldering iron and shorten all of the wiring, possibly even adjust the gauge the various wires. Once that is done look for some thinner heat shrink. Changing the wiring and the heat shrink will cut a bunch of weight and lower your center of gravity.

Kikerumbo
2014.04.15, 04:44 PM
Thanks TheSteve.

I have to work with what I have. It's not definitive yet. Waiting for an AWG 20 wire to change the ESC/battery wires.

I'm not too worried with the weight yet, as this brushless has plenty of power. I prefer a little bit of overprotection for the +50€ receiver.

With this configuration it weights 184gr. But this can be "greatly shaved". I don't know what's the weight of a Kyosho AWD or the MR-03VE.

About the center of gravity... that was the main reason to put the receiver on the battery, but as soon as I can get a carbon fiber sheet I'll change the aluminium holder.

sporadicidiocy
2014.04.16, 01:28 AM
Hi guys, so I got my AMZ a few weeks back and found the Rx is a dud... poor range and the servo jerks pretty badly.

Instead of a full Rx/ESC swap, I went for only replacing the Rx board with one I have on hand, the Flysky Rx is very low profile and cheap as chips so it's a no brainer. :p

So here's a test vid I made doing full forward and reverse a few times. Still haven't decided how to mount everything yet, but nice to know they all work. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnjPQb3nkgA

supafastsupra2
2014.04.17, 12:48 AM
Thanks TheSteve.

I have to work with what I have. It's not definitive yet. Waiting for an AWG 20 wire to change the ESC/battery wires.

I'm not too worried with the weight yet, as this brushless has plenty of power. I prefer a little bit of overprotection for the +50€ receiver.

With this configuration it weights 184gr. But this can be "greatly shaved". I don't know what's the weight of a Kyosho AWD or the MR-03VE.

About the center of gravity... that was the main reason to put the receiver on the battery, but as soon as I can get a carbon fiber sheet I'll change the aluminium holder.

Does that Savox servo drop in without any modifications?

Hi guys, so I got my AMZ a few weeks back and found the Rx is a dud... poor range and the servo jerks pretty badly.

Instead of a full Rx/ESC swap, I went for only replacing the Rx board with one I have on hand, the Flysky Rx is very low profile and cheap as chips so it's a no brainer. :p

So here's a test vid I made doing full forward and reverse a few times. Still haven't decided how to mount everything yet, but nice to know they all work. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnjPQb3nkgA

Bought an AMZ at my local track/LHS today. Also had a bad board :o . Thankfully they had another one in stock and we swapped them out. :D

What type of connector is the batt? I m trying to find some to make some packs and charging leads.

JST-PH; I just ordered 3 300mah 35c packs from hobbyking. According to the dimension on the website, it's the same size as the stock battery. They also have charge leads for JST-PH, but only in the International warehouse.

sporadicidiocy
2014.04.17, 02:03 AM
Well, here's an update on my little swap.

Mounted the Rx off-center to the right to offset the weight bias, worked out ok, but still needs a tad more weight on the right.

Everything still fits under my Mclaren F1 GTR body so that's good news :D

Next up will be making some sort of protective lexan covering for the ESC board.

Kikerumbo
2014.04.17, 03:58 AM
Hi!

"supafastsupra2", the Savox servo needed a bit of work. It's bigger than the stock servo so I had to file down the servo mount and the side of the servo where you put the screw so it doesn't touch the central shaft.

"sporadicidiocy" I'll recommend to get rid of the hard case of the receiver and use heat shrink tubing on it and the ESC. You will save some room and they will be more protected.

CharlieChops
2014.04.17, 06:38 AM
Hi guys, so I got my AMZ a few weeks back and found the Rx is a dud... poor range and the servo jerks pretty badly.

I had the same problem with one, the receiver was dodgy out of the box, lost signal if taken more than a metre away from the transmitter. Had to swap it with a new one.

art3ria
2014.04.17, 08:07 AM
I had the same problem with one, the receiver was dodgy out of the box, lost signal if taken more than a metre away from the transmitter. Had to swap it with a new one.

You have to resyncronice it , i had the same problem and i solved it in this way. i don't rembermer the order of the buttoms , but it solve wity a sync.

Kikerumbo
2014.04.17, 02:10 PM
I don't know if re-sync it will work, but just in case here I leave the transmitter manual.

http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/images/support/AT-1_manual.pdf

Greetings!

sporadicidiocy
2014.04.17, 08:09 PM
"sporadicidiocy" I'll recommend to get rid of the hard case of the receiver and use heat shrink tubing on it and the ESC. You will save some room and they will be more protected.

Yea, I got some clear 20mm heat shrink tube and 1mm CF sheet on order. Will try to make a floating mount for the Rx so it sits just above the battery..

However, I can't think of a good way to cover the ESC with heat shrink.. It has connectors/wires sticking out on three sides. The on/off switch is so close to the battery connector that if I try to cut holes in the tubing for them it won't have much material left to hold itself together. That's why I'm considering making a cover out of lexan instead.

r46
2014.04.18, 02:58 PM
fired up soldering iron an started on tx/rx beta swap over

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04900_zpsa0c32f57.jpg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04891_zps21a7a398.jpg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04893_zpsbea416cc.jpg

rx prep
http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04892_zpsd8ff4c56.jpg

Done some trimming to casing so rx could be mounted in front (unfinished) need more heatshrink so can tidy rx pins, awaiting servo lead an other goodies to aid my quest for a dialed in ride :)

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04899_zps554398e1.jpg

r46
2014.04.19, 09:57 AM
was in soldering mood an found piece of small heatshrink so got on with what could till parts arrive. Used some shoe goo on rx board to retain it on lower casing an velco, hardwired esc to rx an also replaced motor wires for 20awg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04903_zps24e087af.jpg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04904_zps6424bbf8.jpg


nice an low no issues with body ;)
http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04906_zps731e1cba.jpg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/DSC04909_zps0bbee5c1.jpg

supafastsupra2
2014.04.19, 11:44 AM
Has anyone figured out a way to re-bind the car to the radio? We have received a couple AMZ with poor range and are up in arms with trying to fix them instead of sending back for replacement. Yes, we did follow the instruction manual to no avail.

dameetz
2014.04.19, 12:28 PM
From memory - Switch on radio, then switch on the esc, then push the rectangular small white button, it should bind and if successful the light will turn green.

Regarding range issue, the transmitter has power save function which will reduce range (as per manual) maybe its in that mode OR check the receiver wire (this happened to mine) the antenna white part is torn a bit which exposed the core wire inside it to touch with the outer surrounding wire (the black part of the wire).Its not as simple to swap the receiver wire because it is soldered to the board not like the normal 2.4g rx where its connected using button like connector. Having said this, it can be done, just make sure the core and outer wires are soldered to where they should be without touching each other. In my case I just swapped it with a new rx/esc box coz my LHS covered for it.

MiamizFinest
2014.04.23, 02:58 AM
Our local track is doing a great job promoting these AMZ cars. We are still testing and tuning these this but after two weeks or driving they are pretty much dialed at this point.

Check us out doing a few laps around the track!
http://youtu.be/tp8mnmIK4QM

MiamizFinest
2014.04.23, 03:05 AM
Well it's already here!
http://www.technicalrp.es/catalog/gogolap-propo-receptor-asf-para-128-amz-p-44228.html

The ASF receiver for the Atomic AMZ car!

Done! Now my KoPro ASF miniz Radio can use the Atomic AMZ car!

WELL DONE!

http://www.technicalrp.es/catalog/includes/visu_imagen.php?tipo=archivo&adaptar_a_lienzo=0&imagen=%2Fcatalog%2Fimages%2FGP0003.jpg&anchura_max=364&altura_max=210

Is anyone using this yet?

dameetz
2014.04.24, 03:04 AM
Few of my friends are using it with good result, you got to pair it with a digital servo, most here are using Savox digital servo with good result.....mine is on the way:D

MiamizFinest
2014.04.24, 11:59 PM
Few of my friends are using it with good result, you got to pair it with a digital servo, most here are using Savox digital servo with good result.....mine is on the way:D

Thats good to hear, it'd be a shame how much they are asking for it tho. I think ill wait i think this the demand on this car we bring cheaper options. So far i love mine but still like my miniz better.

El Tigre
2014.04.25, 07:24 AM
Few of my friends are using it with good result, you got to pair it with a digital servo, most here are using Savox digital servo with good result.....mine is on the way:D

Why does ASF board conversion need a digital servo?

dameetz
2014.04.25, 12:02 PM
I m not too sure....thats what we here are adviced to use, some use the analog stock servo with it and the servo fried after few laps, if I m not mistaken even the MR03 asf board uses built in digital servo. Something to do with higher/quicker response receiver/transmitter system I guess.

targetingxmod
2014.04.26, 09:04 AM
I m not too sure....thats what we here are adviced to use, some use the analog stock servo with it and the servo fried after few laps, if I m not mistaken even the MR03 asf board uses built in digital servo. Something to do with higher/quicker response receiver/transmitter system I guess.

Hum... don't know that... i use mr03 asf board's on my xmods and swap the coreless servo motor for the awd miniz servo motor and install on the xmods.

Not a single issue using it for years!
http://i206.photobucket com/albums/bb18/fronterasportforum/Black%20X-Mod%20Evo%20Nissan%20Skyline%20GTR/69_191020112047.jpg (http://s206.photobucket com/user/fronterasportforum/media/Black%20X-Mod%20Evo%20Nissan%20Skyline%20GTR/69_191020112047.jpg.html)
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb18/fronterasportforum/BMW%20X-Mod%20evo%20car/25_141120123004.jpg (http://s206.photobucket com/user/fronterasportforum/media/BMW%20X-Mod%20evo%20car/25_141120123004.jpg.html)
http://i206.photobucket com/albums/bb18/fronterasportforum/Carson%20X3200%20-%20Xmod%20Evo%20Truck/209_060120111092.jpg (http://s206.photobucket com/user/fronterasportforum/media/Carson%20X3200%20-%20Xmod%20Evo%20Truck/209_060120111092.jpg.html)
http://i206.photobucket com/albums/bb18/fronterasportforum/Grey%20X-Mod%20Evo%20Nissan%20Skyline%20GTR/108_090220111292.jpg (http://s206.photobucket com/user/fronterasportforum/media/Grey%20X-Mod%20Evo%20Nissan%20Skyline%20GTR/108_090220111292.jpg.html)
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb18/fronterasportforum/Ford%20Mustang%201965/35_020420144093_zps18dc69a5.jpg (http://s206.photobucket com/user/fronterasportforum/media/Ford%20Mustang%201965/35_020420144093_zps18dc69a5.jpg.html)
http://i206.photobucket. om/albums/bb18/fronterasportforum/Gen1%20X-mod%20Nissan%20GTR/145_180620133344_zps3964e711.jpg (http://s206.photobucket com/user/fronterasportforum/media/Gen1%20X-mod%20Nissan%20GTR/145_180620133344_zps3964e711.jpg.html)

Unfornatly i can't now one single photo of those mr03 asf board with the gyro... wait...
http://i206.photobucket com/albums/bb18/fronterasportforum/Red%20Xmod%20Evo%20Truck/106_280720122732_zpsc30e4521.jpg (http://s206.photobucket com/user/fronterasportforum/media/Red%20Xmod%20Evo%20Truck/106_280720122732_zpsc30e4521.jpg.html)
-Ah... nah... well i tryed... but it works like i said!

As for the asked question, i can't say.

r46
2014.04.26, 04:16 PM
going club tomorrow an be first test with gt3c :)
got fly lead for servo so got onto installing it an some goodies ;) (have to reorder hubs & tower)

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC04916_zps2f3f8532.jpg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC04919_zpsa97118d4.jpg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140424_232843_zpszxigtotl.jpg

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz24/triks75/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140425_213932_zpseej9f2ph.jpg

imxlr8ed
2014.04.28, 12:01 AM
Just curious, has anyone out there tried to make a brushed motor version of this chassis yet? Would seem to be a simple swap but I'm not sure if something like, say an ASF board would run on a lipo pack.

I've driven one of these and yes, the brushless is very fast but seems like if the cars were toned down a hair they would be much better for class racing.

Of course, I'm betting they are much more fun on a large carpet track with all that power. On an RCP though, still fun but a bit tougher to control. All that said, still an awesome car and I'm really liking all of the mod routes you all are taking with these cars! Keep up the excellent work!

supafastsupra2
2014.04.28, 02:17 PM
You can tone down (or up!) the car to your liking via the programming card. The only advantage you'd have switching to a brushed setup is the low speed throttle will be slightly smoother.

HammondCheese
2014.06.04, 10:08 PM
Has anyone found any TX apart from the stock that actually works with the stock receiver yet? I've seen a whole lot of posts confirming what DOESN'T work (list seems to be growing :) ). Given that Atomic has now released the bodyset with no TX (and don't seem to sell the TX by iteself)- surely there is an option other than having to solder in a new RX module.... Anyone?

dwight
2014.06.05, 03:44 AM
Have you tried the futaba radio fhss?

dwight
2014.06.05, 03:45 AM
Or just buy the gogo lap board it's $65.

arch2b
2014.06.05, 10:02 AM
Or just buy the gogo lap board it's $65.

Any experience with that board?

HammondCheese
2014.06.05, 09:05 PM
Or just buy the gogo lap board it's $65.

Plus the usual extortionate postage we get to ship things down here :). Its an option and I'd get to use my EX1 which is good.

Surely though we shouldn't HAVE to crack out the soldering iron to get this thing running though. If Atomic really had intended for us to bring our own TXs as the standard solution surely they could have designed a plug in jack or something onto the ESC to make it easier to do - rather than have to cut the case, desolder a board etc etc.

I've heard yes and no for the Futaba option. I don't have access to one of the TXs at the moment and its an expensive mistake if it doesn't work. Anyone tried this?

I'm actually considering using the AMZ esc and the GoGolap board to convert my MRCG to brushless.... Might be easier to just buy the MR03VE board though.

dameetz
2014.06.06, 01:26 PM
Any experience with that board?

Most of our club members use this receiver without any problem (paired with mostly KO EX1 KIY). Now for my self, I tried using it with my Futaba 4PKSR modded with KO RF901SM module and I was having range issue with it. Initially I thought I must have got the bad one but after exchanging to a new one the same problem still occurred. So my conclusion, if you are going to use it with a KO ASF radio it ll work just fine but not guaranteed successful with a Futaba modded with KO module. I never got a chance to test it with my friend modded Futaba 4pksr. My Futaba has been working perfectly with my MR03VE though.

Sinister_Y
2014.06.06, 01:57 PM
just for informational purposes as it was mentioned that nobody was carrying the gogolap 2.4 asf receiver board in north america, we do and they just arrived. there are limited quantities available. FYI, our price is 55CDN (approx 50 USD)

yamar6
2014.07.05, 04:04 PM
Friend and I just ordered atomic cars we also ordered batteries and aluminum shock towers read that the stock plastic ones are crook it.is there anything else we need to make it run good

supafastsupra2
2014.07.07, 07:36 PM
Friend and I just ordered atomic cars we also ordered batteries and aluminum shock towers read that the stock plastic ones are crook it.is there anything else we need to make it run good

aluminum motor mount is a MUST.

yamar6
2014.07.07, 10:03 PM
Going to order it this weeks

supafastsupra2
2014.07.12, 01:13 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/supafastsupra2/2195D69B-60C3-431C-A6BF-A1494D77ADB9_zpsvvtwpagc.jpg (http://s.photobucket.com/user/supafastsupra2/media/2195D69B-60C3-431C-A6BF-A1494D77ADB9_zpsvvtwpagc.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/supafastsupra2/216F16C0-8B5C-473F-8F59-674B7956D623_zps02lmpfbo.jpg (http://s.photobucket.com/user/supafastsupra2/media/216F16C0-8B5C-473F-8F59-674B7956D623_zps02lmpfbo.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/supafastsupra2/70D8C4EB-4130-40ED-B4E9-13F3C419F07D_zpsi9utliuj.jpg (http://s.photobucket.com/user/supafastsupra2/media/70D8C4EB-4130-40ED-B4E9-13F3C419F07D_zpsi9utliuj.jpg.html)

My AMZ after installing the Scorpion 8500 motor and 450mah 65C battery!

Going to be running a lexan body on this one, but the battery will barely clear and work with the R8 Autoscale. Perfect side to side balance with the battery and scorpion motor in place.

Also, for those looking for a servo alternative, the airtronics 94800 drops right in with no mods and is $15. Just use the servo horn included with the servo.
Testing today at the local carpet track. :D

scoobyrs25
2014.07.13, 01:33 AM
I had the Gogolap working great and then the esc crapped out. I swapped in an MR03S board and got the stock servo to work fine. Unfortunately, the car requires the brushless motor due to interference with the body mount. I'll pick up another brushless board from Kyosho this week and finally be able to drive this car.

supafastsupra2
2014.07.13, 02:45 AM
I had the Gogolap working great and then the esc crapped out. I swapped in an MR03S board and got the stock servo to work fine. Unfortunately, the car requires the brushless motor due to interference with the body mount. I'll pick up another brushless board from Kyosho this week and finally be able to drive this car.

That sucks to hear your ESC crapped out. Not sure if Atomic would warranty it, but maybe check with the store you bought it from. We have had bad units come from the box, but haven't seen any working speed controls fail just yet.

We were testing the new Scorpion motors (pictured in above post) today and thought I burned my ESC as well. Thankfully that was not the case, but the rotor on the motor came unglued :eek: I'm surprised the ESC puts up with the abuse so far with this ridiculous motor.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/supafastsupra2/0BDA880C-0C5A-4090-9D34-76FFEA2DACBE_zpsqiyzxixp.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/supafastsupra2/media/0BDA880C-0C5A-4090-9D34-76FFEA2DACBE_zpsqiyzxixp.jpg.html)


Video/Photo below of our 'test' track before we steam clean the carpet and finalize the barriers.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/supafastsupra2/05A3C03E-155A-4708-8823-2A59C5680A1F_zpsrpjxvjdw.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/supafastsupra2/media/05A3C03E-155A-4708-8823-2A59C5680A1F_zpsrpjxvjdw.jpg.html)

http://youtu.be/I-tyN99OadE?list=UUs4r8svahZZzDBjv-v8y6Qw

DMALMAD
2014.07.13, 12:11 PM
I know this is the atomic forum but if you are allowed to use foam tires and traction compound (recomended;)) Than you should also check out the x-power mrx. We have had a few racers try the atomic but in the end the mrx was always faster.

supafastsupra2
2014.07.13, 02:53 PM
I know this is the atomic forum but if you are allowed to use foam tires and traction compound (recomended;)) Than you should also check out the x-power mrx. We have had a few racers try the atomic but in the end the mrx was always faster.

Yep, we use SXT 3.0 on the tires. A couple of the local racers intend to get the MRX soon. It looks like a great option. Just wish it could use a standard electronics setup for those of us who don't want to use ASF.

yamar6
2014.07.13, 09:25 PM
Just rec. Mine first thank god I looked be for I drove it.1 loose screw was
Holding my motor on the other one was not even in.few more tweeks and it be good

yamar6
2014.07.13, 10:48 PM
I just ordered the arms do u notice a difference with them http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/supafastsupra2/2195D69B-60C3-431C-A6BF-A1494D77ADB9_zpsvvtwpagc.jpg (http://s.photobucket.com/user/supafastsupra2/media/2195D69B-60C3-431C-A6BF-A1494D77ADB9_zpsvvtwpagc.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/supafastsupra2/216F16C0-8B5C-473F-8F59-674B7956D623_zps02lmpfbo.jpg (http://s.photobucket.com/user/supafastsupra2/media/216F16C0-8B5C-473F-8F59-674B7956D623_zps02lmpfbo.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/supafastsupra2/70D8C4EB-4130-40ED-B4E9-13F3C419F07D_zpsi9utliuj.jpg (http://s.photobucket.com/user/supafastsupra2/media/70D8C4EB-4130-40ED-B4E9-13F3C419F07D_zpsi9utliuj.jpg.html)

My AMZ after installing the Scorpion 8500 motor and 450mah 65C battery!

Going to be running a lexan body on this one, but the battery will barely clear and work with the R8 Autoscale. Perfect side to side balance with the battery and scorpion motor in place.

Also, for those looking for a servo alternative, the airtronics 94800 drops right in with no mods and is $15. Just use the servo horn included with the servo.
Testing today at the local carpet track. :D

supafastsupra2
2014.07.13, 11:16 PM
I just ordered the arms do u notice a difference with them

The camber arms? They help make the car feel more neutral, but I think combined with the front toe bar and rear toe in plates is when you get the full benefit. How this suspension is arranged, you gain toe out in the rear when you add camber, and the opposite is true in the front. Currently at 3.0 in the rear and -1 in the front with the pictured camber settings. Next time out I will try more camber in the front to compare.

yamar6
2014.07.14, 12:02 AM
1.5 fronts and 2 in rear arms next I'll order the toe links thanks. Also the servo ur using is the plug like the stock I was going to try atomics digital servo

yamar6
2014.07.15, 03:41 PM
I have the car driving alright my new firelap awd runs much smoother and the servo is much smoother i m liking the fire lap more and I don't even have bearings in the hubs yet.I should bought all the hop ups for the firelap instead of buying atomic.

kyoshosan
2014.07.15, 06:02 PM
I just ordered the arms do u notice a difference with them

Where did you buy the scorpion motor from?

supafastsupra2
2014.07.16, 12:47 AM
Where did you buy the scorpion motor from?

http://www.scorpionsystem.com/catalog/is_motors/mini-z_series/Z_1410_8500/

yamar6
2014.07.17, 01:52 PM
Will the aluminum hubs take the wheel wobble out the wheels also pull in and out

dameetz
2014.07.18, 12:34 AM
Will the aluminum hubs take the wheel wobble out the wheels also pull in and out

No it will not, but the advantage of using this is that the toe and camber set up are precise because the screws to attach the toe link and the arm ball link will always go in vertically into the alum knuckle as opposed to the plastic knuckles where the screws sometimes got tilted when screwing down, sometimes having a hard side impact can also make the screws tilt and make the left-right toe and camber uneven.

For the in-out gap, you can shim up the universal shaft using 3x5mm spacers that atomic sold (comes in various thickness from 0.1-0.3mm in the packet) to get rid of the gap. Just dont shim it too tight otherwise the shaft wont rotate freely.

yamar6
2014.08.03, 09:14 PM
Bought the rear tie rods how do u know which one is which.I want to use #3

dameetz
2014.08.03, 10:28 PM
It has dots on it.....1 dot equal 1 deg toe in, if you want 3 deg toe in use the one with 3 dots.

yamar6
2014.08.03, 10:31 PM
Thank u also I have one with a line

dameetz
2014.08.04, 01:47 AM
I think the one with a line is the same as zero toe. Compare it side by side among the other dotted links, the shorter the link will give more toe in vice versa.

yamar6
2014.08.17, 11:37 AM
Just put in my aluminum motor mount what a huge difference. I would like to know if the aluminum servo mount will stop the movement of the servo.

I was looking at the car with out the ESC/rec. And it would be nice if they made the top carbon brace the ESC/rec what a clean look the chassis would be

r46
2014.08.17, 05:23 PM
Just put in my aluminum motor mount what a huge difference. I would like to know if the aluminum servo mount will stop the movement of the servo.


yes it does(main reason why got one for mine) remember to add a tiny amount of thread lock on screws so won't work loose from
vibrations.

yamar6
2014.08.17, 06:16 PM
Another Q. Did any one try atomics better servo

byebye
2014.08.17, 07:23 PM
Another Q. Did any one try atomics better servo

http://youtu.be/4J0C-9irnww?list=UURA79WZDrTbO_-pu4963OyQ

This is the kit car and not the rtr. From my understanding the kit car has the digital servo.

Kris

r46
2014.08.17, 09:21 PM
Another Q. Did any one try atomics better servo
currently using atomic digi servo miles better then stock :)

yamar6
2014.08.17, 10:02 PM
Your using stock radio to

r46
2014.08.18, 11:25 AM
Your using stock radio to

No was using gt3c now using ko helios

yamar6
2014.08.18, 11:30 AM
Did u use the servo with the stock radio just want to see if its better with the stock radio

dameetz
2014.08.18, 12:33 PM
The stock servo is fine with the stock radio, if you have problem like the servo movement is jerking and not smooth, try to re-bind the radio and the receiver once more. This is what some of us had out of the box when we first got them, after re-binding the servo issue had gone. Having said this , at the moment I m using Futaba S3154 servo just because I broke the stock servo gears and could not find a spare gears available to purchased.

yamar6
2014.08.18, 01:21 PM
K I'll try it

yamar6
2014.08.18, 03:22 PM
Is the stock chassis 98mm and is the r8 fit the 98 mm chassis

byebye
2014.08.18, 04:08 PM
Is the stock chassis 98mm and is the r8 fit the 98 mm chassis
I know the kit comes with both a 98mm and 94mm driveshaft. The Audi R8 is 98mm wheel base.

Kria

dameetz
2014.08.18, 08:24 PM
The RTR does come with the necessary bits to be used as 98 and 94mm.

byebye
2014.08.18, 08:42 PM
The RTR does come with the necessary bits to be used as 98 and 94mm.

I edited my post. What I was pointing out is I was speaking about the kit and not the rtr as I wasn't sure if the rtr came with the necessary bits. Now we know it does. :)

yamar6
2014.08.19, 12:50 AM
So the rtr comes 98 mm already right

r46
2014.08.22, 04:34 PM
Testing to see if la ferrari body could fit but no such luck

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k498/raceruo09/Mobile%20Uploads/20140809_133035_zpsgmgrownx.jpg

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k498/raceruo09/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20140809-WA0034_zpsamucm7ab.jpeg

Air vent/scoop hits servo post

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k498/raceruo09/Mobile%20Uploads/20140809_133133_zpsk2isnhiz.jpg

Then side clips need to be ultra shallow for amz

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k498/raceruo09/Mobile%20Uploads/20140809_133148_zpspnhwjbuy.jpg

Tapir
2014.08.22, 07:20 PM
Now that they have been out for a while. Are they competitive on RCP compared to the MR-02 and MR-03?

yamar6
2014.08.26, 10:49 AM
I don't have those other cars but I'm enjoying mine

Ancient Artist
2014.09.02, 03:39 PM
just for informational purposes as it was mentioned that nobody was carrying the gogolap 2.4 asf receiver board in north america, we do and they just arrived. there are limited quantities available. FYI, our price is 55CDN (approx 50 USD)

Do you still have these available? I went to the site today but it's down.
If not do you or anyone know of anybody that ships to North America that would?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

HammondCheese
2014.09.05, 03:06 AM
Do you still have these available? I went to the site today but it's down.
If not do you or anyone know of anybody that ships to North America that would?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

The site is back up - purchased 2 of them this morning with the plans to put them in a MRCG and an AMZ... although I'm tempted to wait for the 2wd version which seems to be listed as an upcoming product.....

Ancient Artist
2014.09.10, 12:20 PM
The site is back up - purchased 2 of them this morning with the plans to put them in a MRCG and an AMZ... although I'm tempted to wait for the 2wd version which seems to be listed as an upcoming product.....

Thanks for the reply. They must have been updating the site because I hopped on later that night and it was back up and they had stock too! There were 4 at the time. I picked up two and it looks like you were the lucky recipient of the the other two! :D

r46
2014.09.14, 04:44 PM
What's pin/plug configuration on gogo lap rx?
As lead supplied opposite to servo :confused:

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k498/raceruo09/Mobile%20Uploads/20140914_213345_zpsrz3cs1rn.jpg

r46
2014.09.21, 08:39 AM
Got replacement rx an this unit does same not powering up even tho power at pins on board, any ideas guys?

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k498/raceruo09/Mobile%20Uploads/20140921_132552_zpsyblheaso.jpg

dameetz
2014.09.21, 11:41 AM
Looking at your pic (on the receiver)....possibly you got the wiring wrong....the black (negative wire should be on the other end, red (positive) in the middle and white (signal) should be at where the black wire is.....the steering servo socket is the lowest socket (nearest to the bind button).....its been a while since i assemble mine, i might be wrong though....i remember on mine i have to swap the wires on the connector to correct its color code coz its confusing......change the servo wiring as per what i mentioned for the throttle as well..