View Full Version : Atomic Self Centering Damper

2013.10.27, 10:33 AM
ok, bought this and 1st attempt to install and 2x5x2 damper part c bearing exploded. no response on replacement so i bought the damper repair set. while i was at it, i bought the aluminum friction cover. turns out the aluminum friction cover pivot bearing receiver is not deep enough and the whole cover sits so far off the base the inner center spring can simply pop out. so, ditched the aluminum cover to the wasteful parts bin with the original damper part c part with 1 busted bearing with and outer race i can't remove. jumping to damper part b, the holding mount works correctly in spacing part b above the 4 pin ics port however the base of part B hangs over the 4 pin ics port, which is needed for most for the transponder. i had to notch a bit off the corner with an xacto knife.

now getting back to part c setup, i'm running the 458 98mm car and per the instructions, ball end #5 is the long one, is the one to use. absolutely no room for this part. it's too long and hits part c before the rear end is even in a level position. as a result, there is no way to screw in the damper pin far enough to effectively work the rebound spring.

i've heard wonderful reviews of this kit however my experience with it has been anything but wonderful. take a look at the picture and please let me know if i've made some simple idiot mistake in assembly.

does this require the use of an atomic rear motor pod? there is no mention of this anywhere but assume that maybe, an atomic pod places the pivot ball farther back corresponding with the ball ends.

atomic instructions (http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/egr_manual/MR3-033.pdf)

2013.10.27, 02:28 PM
Ok I think you need the atomic pod. I have never see. This installed without the pod. I have it on one of my cars and the pod to match.

2013.11.09, 09:15 PM
another question, does the aluminum swivel base always sit flat? i've seen another and it sat rather flat however the one i bought is so far raised over the bearing that the ring spring simply pops out. it's not just a little off but enough so that the horn will skip over the ring spring ends. i'm really trying hard to like this damper but the one i've got, the accessories it bought for it all a shoddy bit of kit. the gaps are horrible, the fitment is sloppy, etc. etc. i want to to work, i really need it to work but i'm just having such a bad time trying to get it to fit like i see it on other's cars that it's just frustrating. i bought the V5 98mm motor pod and together, that setup was absolutely dreadful. the whole back end hopped around like a jack rabbit. i put it back on the PN motor pod and it runs flat again but the fitment to the PN pod is poor. the hole for the ball end riser is too close to the chassis, the hole is to low. i had to shim it with a bearing and even then it the spring crunches on the swivel base. if i can get a custom cut CF support bar with the hole farther back and a proper height shim, i think i can make it work with the PN pod. i ordered the RIS motor pod but thats a week out.

really looking for suggestions on how to make this work properly because so far it's just been a disappointment. maybe i'm the lucky one to get the parts that should have been sorted out? wouldn't be the first time the sort of thing has happened to me (PN part that was replaced).

2014.02.09, 11:16 AM
i wanted to give an update.

i spent some time with mike keely going over this bit of kit and 1 thing that made a huge difference was squeezing the inner ring spring together so the ends were very close if not touching. there was simply way to much play in the gap that created far to much slop in the left/right movement. you also have to be careful not to rotate it too far or the horn simply pops out of the ring. the tolerances for fitment between the top and bottom parts allow for enough movement that the inner ring spring can actually pop out if you over rotate the swivel as well.

out of the box, i still needed to shim the damper post up with a bearing to keep the damper shaft from hitting the swivel base. given the most up to date motor mount has no up/down adjustment for the support arm, i had no choice really. i have no idea how others may have gotten theirs attached without shimming. the thumb screw knob for the damper is near impossible to turn as well without pliers. in hindsight, putting a hex head cap screw head on the end would have been better than knurling it which just gets eaten up by pliers.

all this said, it seems to be working. i am confident in saying i took my previous setup as far as i could with my skill level and this change has contributed to a slight increase in overall lap counts. i don't really focus to much on lap times but rather consistency. i don't have the fastest lap times but i am fairly consistent which pays better dividends for me.
there is still too much play in the tolerances of the parts (top and bottom swivel parts) in my opinion and not sure why a motor mount would have zero adjustment in the damper post arm.