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View Full Version : What kind of Glue for White Bodies


kyoshosan
2014.01.03, 11:05 PM
Hi Guys,

Just wondering what kind of clue you guys use when clueing the White bodies parts. CA? Thin , regular, thick? How about the side body mounts? Any brand in particular?

Thanks!

lfisminiz
2014.01.04, 12:33 AM
Zap for plastics CA glue. Has an orange label. Very good and strong. Glue it up and put in front of small fan for awhile and your good to go. ;):)

arch2b
2014.01.04, 10:10 AM
i use walthers goo myself. it works, maintains some measure of flexibility and i can carefully cut it out later if i need to take it apart for some reason. i've used it for modeling and just carried it over to mini-z.

Sinister_Y
2014.01.04, 11:04 AM
I normally use Kenon 1-3 sec quick stuff, i.e. contact cement, however find that the best stuff was what Kyosho used to include with white bodies.

I found a suitable replacement with Tamiya which is close to that stuff that Kyosho used to include, it is part #87091 although I personally don't carry it anymore. I think it may even be discontinued.

kyoshosan
2014.01.04, 03:56 PM
Thanks Guys!

arch2b
2014.01.04, 04:09 PM
there are a couple other threads on the subject...HERE (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32202&highlight=glue+white+body), HERE (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34508&highlight=glue+white+body) and HERE (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25170&highlight=glue+white+body)

gctkaz
2014.02.09, 11:46 PM
I use LePage Speed Set Epoxy. I have to hold it for a few minutes while it hardens enough to put it down, but it holds well afterwards and has some flexibility to hold on impacts. I had terrible luck with CA not holding for even minor impacts, and also those inevitable runs onto the windows messing them up.

The clear epoxy is removable and comes off clean with some effort, and after about a year the bond weakens and sometimes comes off from a hard impact. I have only had it happen to side clips and rear lenses, and I just re-apply when parts fall off. I have not tried it yet, but it leaves open the possibility of complete disassembly (mainly removal of the windows) for a completely new paint job when the old colours get too damaged.

FocusOne
2014.02.10, 05:52 PM
Thick CA glue has been holding for me so far

TheSteve
2014.02.10, 06:22 PM
I've been using foam safe CA, had good results so far with no fogging.

babstar
2014.02.11, 08:56 PM
I use CA glue to fix and 5 min epoxy to strengthen the bond afterwards, you don't want one coming off after a nasty collision during a final ;)

Just fill the gaps with the epoxy and a little around the clips.

herman
2014.11.07, 05:41 AM
hmm... well it would depend... here are some of the common stuff that i've used...

l-r: tamiya cement, 5min epoxy, super glue (aka CA glue - note this came free with the knead it epoxy putty) knead it epoxy putty
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/1.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/1.jpg.html)

herman
2014.11.07, 05:47 AM
on the 926 i used tamiya cement and the 5min epoxy...

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/2.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/2.jpg.html)

tamiya cement - is what i would probably use for white bodies, ie light buckets, headlights, and other small details. this is very thin almost waterlike... once you apply this to the pieces that you intend to be glued together it will 'melt' the plastic and fuse them together creating the bond... in this case i used it for the side body clips... note it is very clean...

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/4.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/4.jpg.html)

it could be cleaner if i was more careful... but since this is under the body you don't really have to be too particular... bond is fair to good depending on what particular parts you want to glue together...
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/5.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/5.jpg.html)

herman
2014.11.07, 05:57 AM
for the lightbuckets, i used a 5 min epoxy... this is a bit messy because you will have to mix two compounds together and get them in the right proportion... the viscosity of the glue would depend on the proportion (usually called hardener & adhesive)... it usually makes an excellent bond, however i don't think you would like to use this for fine details that would actually be seen on the car, so i would probably use this for the side body mounts, and light buckets...

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/3.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/3.jpg.html)

herman
2014.11.07, 06:00 AM
i used the 5min epoxy again when i had to relocate the side body clips of the c9

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/8.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/8.jpg.html)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/9-1.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/9-1.jpg.html)

note that the glue runs...
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/10.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/10.jpg.html)

good thing it is inside the body...
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/11.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/11.jpg.html)

herman
2014.11.07, 06:09 AM
lastly i tried the knead it... which is like epoxy putty... you take of a bit of what you think you need and knead it together... this isn't too messy... you have a few minutes to work with it since it will harden after a while... again i wouldn't use this on the body details, but for under body work, ie buckets and inner body clips, probably some in the front if you need to strengthen that area...

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/14.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/14.jpg.html)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/15.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/15.jpg.html)

herman
2014.11.07, 06:16 AM
i've used these type of glue basically to relocate the body clips and reinforce the light buckets...

before
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/6.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/6.jpg.html)

after
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/7.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/7.jpg.html)

before
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/12.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/12.jpg.html)

after
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/13.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/13.jpg.html)

herman
2014.11.07, 06:20 AM
before
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/17.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/17.jpg.html)

after
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/18.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/18.jpg.html)

so in summary...
for me i would generally use tamiya cement (which works great for details since it is a modelers glue) however take note where you use it since bond is just ok to good for me

and the 5min epoxy / epoxy putty for parts that need heavy duty stuff under the body...
hope this helps... :D

arch2b
2014.11.07, 07:13 AM
i've used 2 part epoxy's as well and even jbweld doesn't bond to the plastic surface well enough to prevent it from shearing off the plastic, especially at the front end. for this reason i use a flexible glue like walthers goo that sticks to the plastic will and remains somewhat flexible so that impacts do not typically shear the bond. it's not perfect, it doesn't provide the solid rigidity that epoxy will add to the front end but it works.

wish we could have learned what type of glue kyosho used to include with the white body kits. that stuff worked well but doesn't have a good shelf life. you often got it and it was already less viscous and less easy to work with.

herman
2015.01.30, 08:01 PM
i think kyosho glue was a viscous type of model glue... quite similar to the properties of the tamiya cement i used... they basically melt the plastic and eventually fuse them togeter... the only difference is that the kyosho glue was viscous (thick) and the tamiya is like a liquid, it came with a brush applicator that you kind of paint or brush on the pieces you want to be glued together.

KWT
2015.01.30, 09:43 PM
I just found a white label version of Plastruct Bondene works well. I tested it on my old cracked 962 body. It melts the plastic together and it becomes one piece.

200sxr
2015.07.12, 10:37 PM
before
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/17.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/17.jpg.html)

after
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s11/hmc_jr/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/18.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/hmc_jr/media/glue%20and%20lm%20bodies/18.jpg.html)

so in summary...
for me i would generally use tamiya cement (which works great for details since it is a modelers glue) however take note where you use it since bond is just ok to good for me

and the 5min epoxy / epoxy putty for parts that need heavy duty stuff under the body...
hope this helps... :D

My apologies for reviving an old thread; when you adjust the location of the side clips how do you get them off the body to start off with? I have a Audi R8 auto scale body and the clips sit way too low so the rear of the body sit too high!

Thanks in advance

DMALMAD
2015.07.12, 11:09 PM
Use CA debonder, I use ZAP CA debonder and you could probably find it with a google search. Just be careful not to use too much or to try and pull the clips off to early, use a little and let sit, and then use a little more and repeat until the clips come off with little to no force. If you do not use debonder and are impatient and break the clips the body may not sit right as the spacing could be off.

arch2b
2015.07.13, 08:53 AM
KWT noticed a little trick with the R8, pop off the clips, switch sides, and it sits right. maybe they have a manufacturing mix up?

i typically try to pop them off as gently as possible with a flat head screw driver. you can feel the glue bond pop some times, but as cautioned, be careful not to take flanges off with the clip. just makes it a mess to get back on as you have to spend more time gluing it on properly without the guides. there are some side clips available on shapeways if it all goes down hill on you so don't fret, there is always a back up. :cool:

200sxr
2015.07.15, 03:35 AM
Thanks guys! I am give it a go when I get home in a week or so.

KWT
2015.07.17, 01:48 PM
The R8 is a AWD body. The clips are setup for the AWD chassis. If you look at the clips, they have an offset. If you flip them, the body sits correctly on a 2wd chassis.

herman
2015.07.20, 02:32 AM
in relocating the side body clips, i pried them off by using a small precision flat head screw driver a hobby knife and in some cases with the help of a dremel...

here's a relocation job i did on the mercedes c9 body ---> click here (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39899&highlight=mercedes)

here is a related thread ---> click here (http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=453499#post453499)

hope this helps

herman
2015.07.20, 02:33 AM
The R8 is a AWD body. The clips are setup for the AWD chassis. If you look at the clips, they have an offset. If you flip them, the body sits correctly on a 2wd chassis.

cool tip... i never noticed this...