View Full Version : Class racing convo (GT1 & GT2)

2014.10.08, 03:02 PM
I thought I would start a thread in regards to the class racing that we have started to adhere to during some of our GTG's.

It seems during the larger GTG I was inadvertently cheating.
Apparently the Atomic stock motor I was running doesn't fall within the GT1 class.

So, my question is, what motors DO!?
Should we as a club purchase a bunch of the same motors & everyone use the same ones?
If not, do we simply categorize a few GT1 motors? & If so, which one's do we include?
I assume the "STOCK" Kyosho motor will be okay, but some of us have motor pods that require them to be drilled.

My own problem with the Kyosho motor is the end bell is so large that the wires end up rubbing against the back axle shaft & if I flip it the other way, the wires hinder any kind of suspension movement. They other one I had the drilled holes were off so I couldn't mount it properly.

So, I was thinking of getting a PN 70 Turn motor or some other "GT1 Stock Class" motor, but, what others are acceptable?
I believe Dave H. has a good list he had written up with Motors & their turn count, maybe post something like that up?

Other than that, if I'm going to get away from using foams which I like as they don't wear down very much & give great grip, then I'd like some suggestions on what type of tires to run.

What is everyone running up front & in back?
I think I had 20's in the back & 10's up front when I last ran, I am unsure, as most of the rubber tires I do have weren't properly labeled, so, I'd like to just place them in the Club use box & buy some proper ones that I know what they are.

What Degree range & type should I buy to try out?
Slick, V Groove, Type-X, RCP specific or Carpet?

I'd like to start by ordering a few to try out, so, what do y'all suggest?

2014.10.08, 04:47 PM
You've got it a bit backwards, Ryan.

GT1=mod class
GT2=stock class

We've tried keeping it simple(because our crew don't do basic cars):

GT2/stock: Kyosho stock or 70 turn motor max with rubber tires. Any other chassis mods are acceptable.

GT1/mod: anything goes (including foams for those guys who cheat we accept they can use them here)

I was using the same set of tires for both my chassis this past Sunday...Kyosho 20 rear-Kyosho 30 front. IMO all other tires are hard to balance grip levels and Atomic tires are quite likely to have silicone and therefore ruin your track for all other tires.

As for your wiring issue, you can make it work wires towards the axle if you solder it correctly avoiding the "rub" you speak of.

I don't think getting a bunch of motors would matter. It's unlikely members will change their car(s) so I suggest we tag transponders to their category and then have penalties for rough passing. DaveH and I had an agreement that the offended party called out "rough" pass and then they would let the person back past to continue. It worked pretty well since we were so evenly matched it promoted super clean racing

2014.10.08, 04:59 PM
Everything Derek said looks good to me. But I would like to add the VE Eco brushless motor to the GT2 class "approved" motor list.

2014.10.08, 05:37 PM
Tests have shown the Eco is a bit more torquey than the 70t but for all intensive purposes it's the closest to "stock" of the VE board chassis so I'd accept Eco tuned in stock class.

The biggest issue we are trying to avoid by classifying racers is the overspeed "rough pass". I think the best we can do is try and promote cleaner racing, have class races and agree that rough passing is an offense that requires the offended party back ahead (in serious cases of malfeasance).

2014.10.08, 11:53 PM
I would personally be in support of the club making a purchase of several PN 70T motors for use in class races, paid for by individual members of course. I don't think $10-$13 per motor is too much to ask for a motor that will last at least two years of monthly racing. My only concern is for the members who do not have more than one chassis to run, swapping motors can be troublesome and also wears out the plastic threads on the chassis if you don't have quick connectors.

...I just say that since I am already equipped with 50T and 70T... but I wouldn't mind picking up another 1 or 2 70T to keep around.

I do plan to get an Eco VE one of these days.

Now what about body shell classes? I'd be prepared to run in a 70T 90mm narrow class too!

2014.10.09, 01:40 AM
I'm also in agreeance with what Derek said. No need to buy and try several different tires, kyosho 20 rear and kyosho 30 front, slicks not radials, DONE. A set of each and (given how much you've been racing lately Ryan) you're good for a year.

However, I do NOT agree with "the club" purchasing motors. Let each person buy there own motor if they want. They're not that expensive and it's really not very difficult to click a mouse a few times.

2014.10.13, 10:57 AM
Just for reference if anyone thinks our "GT2/stock" category is too stringent read this:


I'd love if we would actually got back to the classic "box stock" scenario and would be willing to convert a car back if the idea would gain interest. I don't see more than 2 or 3 guys keen on de-modifying though so I'll just have to hope we can at least level the field in GT2 to make racing enjoyable for all.

2014.10.13, 12:15 PM
With the exception of T-plate's, bearings and tires, if it didn't come in the box it doesn't go on the car. Eight minute race everybody finishes on the same lap.

2014.10.13, 06:06 PM
For the box-stock racing, I think the way to do it with the fewest headaches is just to go with a brand-new MR-03 Sports kit, crappy radio and all.

I am not particularly keen to do that though. I'm quite happy with the simple motor and tire restrictions we have now.

2014.10.15, 12:56 AM
With the exception of T-plate's, bearings and tires, if it didn't come in the box it doesn't go on the car. Eight minute race everybody finishes on the same lap.

I'm liking this.

That's a VERY level playing field.

It's all about skill and keeping your speed though the corners etc.

I'd like to discuss this further - but I'm thinkin' this idea's pretty cool.

Let's not forget - there's lotsa room for other categories.


2014.10.18, 12:56 AM
Yeah... Sounds pretty cool to me too... Pretty logical, tires - help with the grip, a big plus over the stock tires that come with the kit; bearings - a very good upgrade to help out with efficiently putting more power to the drive train (compared to plastic bushings); t-plate - the stock plastic is sometimes warped, and eventually will break... so replacing it with a stronger carbon fiber (cf ) one will last much longer...

The slower speed translates to - nothing but skill in this class, since cars will be quite similar in their composition and make up... And theoretically slower speeds mean lesser broken parts compared to the mod class... and this keeps everything cost effective...

Lastly, you can call it the TBT class (tires, bearings, t-plate) and schedule races on Thursdays :D

2015.02.24, 10:42 AM
I have a question about this 90mm narrow class that you guys have been enjoying while I was away.

I'm assuming the main restrictions are stock(-class) motor, rubber tires, Narrow front stance, and 90mm wheelbase + Narrow tires all around.

Are there further restrictions on body styles / motor configuration / wheel offsets / rear wheel width?

i.e. is this going to be limited to hatchback + HM + 0N/0N? Is AWD allowed?

I've recently set up a new-to-me MR-015 with coupe + RM + 0N/0N. Will this be allowed or will I need to buy a new body and HM mount?

2015.02.24, 11:12 AM
I have a question about this 90mm narrow class that you guys have been enjoying while I was away.

I'm not sure what restrictions there are, maybe the others can reply and start to put forward limitations etc for the class. Mine is AWD, I thought the others also ran AWD's, but I found that it was a mix of 2WD & 4WD.

I don't think we've bothered to run a full race with the class as of yet, I know we had quite a few of them on the track at once last race day & it was fun. :cool:

2015.02.24, 04:05 PM
I think originally we were aiming for 90mm narrow, stock motors and a high body of some sort. At this point we could easily have a more relaxed version though. Maybe any 90mm narrow body, stock motor or eco brushless, 2wd or awd. There is a lot of variation there but its still a great class.

2015.02.25, 09:49 AM
We could be more relaxed because all you cupcakes are afraid of my Abarth and need the crutch of non conforming to 0/0 narrow RWD.

I'd be ready for us to all have a race or two with everyone using a 90mm narrow-ish platform.

2015.02.25, 10:54 AM
We could be more relaxed because all you cupcakes are afraid of my Abarth and need the crutch of non conforming to 0/0 narrow RWD.

I'd be ready for us to all have a race or two with everyone using a 90mm narrow-ish platform.

Well we would have to be more relaxed now wouldn't we, you don't have HM or a narrow tire setup in the rear do you?

2015.02.25, 03:08 PM
I have all 4 narrow wheels.... doesn't that count? :p

I don't think the 1.0mm difference between narrow and semi wide is what makes my car so awesome.

BTW I'm still waiting for the HM mount you said you were going to get me so if you've got complaints about legality you can point the finger squarely in the mirror. (And you know which finger I'm taking about)

Trash talk isn't as fun when you have to type it.... it loses the humour when those not involved don't have the background context

2015.02.25, 03:12 PM
What would you say does make your car so awesome? (we know its not you).

And yes, while possibly suggesting your driving sucks I do freely admit your Abarth is awesome.

2015.02.25, 03:16 PM
I will be the first to admit my driving lacks a certain finesse but now that my Abarth rarely flips/rolls it makes me look likei know what I'm doing.

My uncanny ability to fluke into a good setup is what makes it awesome.