AMZ 2wd Chassis

[Duster]

When is the 2wd chassis /car going to be released?

[DMALMAD]

I think I saw some where during late January but I am not entirely sure.

[Mrs Mini-Z]

We'll have them in the shop (http://shop.tinyrc.com/) in February! When I have a more concrete date, I'll let everyone know. :)

[Mrs Mini-Z]

Hi All! Just wanted to update you that the Atomic 2WD AMR has arrived! It's currently IN STOCK in Kit form (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=23164) with a host of optional parts (http://shop.tinyrc.com/home.php?cat=579) available too.

The RTR with Tx will be here later in the month, so stay tuned for that too!

Be sure to check out all the pics in my AMR Gallery (http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/showgallery.php?cat=1460&ppuser=12539)!

http://mini-zracer.com/mini-zgallery/data/1460/medium/2015-03-02_10_06_00.jpg

[dwight]

So I picked up and Atomic AMR. Didn't realize that it was the kit tho. But it's all good. I started to assemble the kit and it wasn't that bad.(did it at work). Hear are some things about the kit I think you need to know. The front shocks from the AMZ will work on the front only. You will need the Atomic big bore shocks for the rear. Know the car takes awd rims front and rear.

[67 Mustang]

I'm new to the forum so please bear with me while I get proficient. I built the 2wd kit and tried to use a Turnigy 3XS transmitter with it. It does bind but the steering servo surges and stutters back and forth and the esc goes only forward sporadically. Has any one used this transmitter with the Atomic receiver/esc?
Thanks, Bob

[67 Mustang]

After I tried to use the Turnigy transmitter and Atomic receiver/esc unsuccessfully I thought I'd try a Kyosho 03-VE board out of one of my Kyosho Mini-Z's. I used a digital servo from one of my helicopters (an old E-Sky) that I wasn't using anymore. I only used the motor, gears, and feedback pot of the servo and connected it to the built in amplifier on the Kyosho board. It's nice to use the same KO Propo transmitter as my Mini-Z's. The servo doesn't work nearly as quickly as the Mini-Z setup so response is much slower. I've attached two pics of the project. I don't know how to insert them in the thread. Let me know if there are any questions.
Bob

[cowboysir]

Got a few questions for you, Bob:

1. Are you concerned about running the VE board on lipo or are you using life cells?
2. Is that the "stock" steering link position or is that created by you to match your servo arm?
3. I'm curious to get a closer look at the "spur" assembly to understand the drive line... is it some sort of hybrid awd/03 mix?

As a thought (and if you're handy) you could try boxing up an mr03 servo assembly and create some sort of steering link for this front end. Since it appears the knuckles have a bolt on aspect to them it could be feasible. ...

[67 Mustang]

Hi and let me explain a few parameters of my operating situation. My main hobby is rc aircraft (mainly helicopters) but this time of year some of my flying friends and I get together and run our Mini-Z's on an RCP 8ft. by 12 ft track in my basement. With this size track, we run our cars on a single lipo cell and still can't get to top speed. I run two 330 mah."AAA" lipo's in parallel and get about 30 minutes of run time. We run 6 minute heats with a Robitronic timer. We use 6 tooth pinions to get good acceleration. I've seen that people have used 2s on the Mini_Z's with no problem, but It's no advantage with my track size and I haven't tried it.
The stock Atomic steering servo setup is not good for "bump steer" problems but it's one that will fit in the confines of the car. The stock servo saver was too loose and so I used a standard servo horn. It's about 1 mm. longer that stock, making "bump steer" worse but giving a little quicker response. With my very smooth track, "bump steer" isn't really a problem, but I would like to lower the track rod to be in line with the bottom wishbone and eliminate it.
The stock drive setup uses a double reduction spur gear with the same orientation as the MR-03 VE Mini_z but a little further forward in the chassis.
This, along with the steering servo being so far back, leaves very little room for batteries. Notice the pic of the stock Mini-z servo sitting next to the Atomic car and you'll get an idea of the cramped quarters. I would really like to use the Mini-z servo motor and setup and maybe I'll find a way to "shoehorn" it in place. The servo with the white arm is the one I'm using and the dark arm is stock Atomic. I'm using a battery holder I made from an old LED flashlight. I'm mounting the batteries transversely across the chassis now but I hope to mount them longitudinally (like Mini-z) and maybe then there'll be enough room for the Mini-z servo. Bob

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[67 Mustang]

Hi and I thought I'd post these scans of the instructions so you can see the arrangement of everything. Let me know if there are any questions. I also wanted to say that I think the Atomic car is well engineered and made. Bob

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[dwight]

Would really like to see the way you put the servo wires to the board

[67 Mustang]

Hi and I hope this pic helps. The motor and feedback pot from the servo simply take the place of the stock Mini-Z motor and feedback pot. Just unsolder the Mini-Z items and replace with the servo items. If the servo runs off to one end and stays or judders, then reverse either the motor or the two ends of the feedback pot. If the servo works but is reverse direction, then reverse both the motor and feedback pot end connections while leaving the center connection the same. You could also use channel reversing on the transmitter, if so equipped.
Let me know if there are any questions. Bob

[67 Mustang]

Hi everyone, I've been working on the Atomic 2WD steering setup and thought I'd "show and tell". The first mods I made were in the radio setup. On my EX-5 UR, I increased the steering travel to 100% and the steering speed to plus 30. Then I increased the steering curve to plus 50. This gave me much better response and comes close to my MR-03 VE.
Next, I decided to try to eliminate "bump steer" with some changes to the steering mechanics. I removed the stock tie rods and ball ends and inserted a track rod all the way across from one knuckle arm to the other. I luckily found a rod and ball ends in my 450 size helicopter junk box that were the right size. The ball ends were 4mm. instead of 3.5mm. from Atomic but still mounted on 2mm screws. On the left knuckle arm, I used a longer 2mm. screw that would concentrically raise the new tie rod from the servo to the track rod and be parallel to the wishbone. I used the stock Atomic tie rod with a different end from the servo to the track rod. The attached pics hopefully will make this clear.
These changes have really transformed the way the car responds to steering inputs and have made it my new favorite. The adjustment ability of the all independent suspension allow changes to suit track conditions and I really enjoy that. The independent rear suspension really helps keep the rear end of the car "planted" over any bumps. I've noticed that I can take a corner faster now without the oversteer that happens with the solid Mini-Z rear pod and it's large unsprung mass.
Let me know if there are any questions.
Bob
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[67 Mustang]

Hi again. I thought I would show the parts removed and the new parts used to accomplish the above changes.
Check out the two pics and it will perhaps be more clear.
The first pics shows the new parts and the second shows the Atomic parts no longer used.
Let me know if there are any questions.
Bob

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[dameetz]

Just want to ask if this car is as loud as their AMZ 4wd car due to gear pitch and its gear reduction system?

[67 Mustang]

Hi and I can't compare to the AMZ 4wd as I don't have one. I do have a Mini-Z AWD 020 VE and I would say it's very close to that in gear noise volume, but the pitch of the sound is slightly lower. The AMZ 2wd is a little more noisy than any of my 2wd Mini-z's but isn't very noticeable.
Bob

[67 Mustang]

I thought I'd post pics of the latest version of my AMZ 2wd. I have the transponder working and made an aluminum spacer on the track rod screw on the left side.
I get better lap times - about .2 sec - with the AMZ over the Mini-z. It's not a great difference from 5.3 to 5.5 sec a lap, but it's enough to win and I'm still getting used to it. I think the main advantage is in the corners as I don't have to slow down as much.
Let me know if there are any questions.
Bob

[67 Mustang]

Here's the body I use on the AMZ 2wd. I adapted a BRZ white body by enlarging the rear wheel well about 5mm. rearward. I like the overall fit and look of the body and it's the right size to get through traffic. It's not going to be in any "concours" event, it's just for racing. The large bumper on the front helps save the steering servo and reduces "lawn dart" tendencies on the RCP walls.
Bob

[67 Mustang]

I finally found a workable solution to use the stock esc and steering servo and here are a few pics of it. Since I couldn't get stock receiver to bind to the Turnigy 3XS transmitter, I decided to use the XR3100 receiver that came with the transmitter. First, I "decased" the receiver and esc and then plugged the esc into channel 2 of the receiver and found that it worked well. I removed the antenna from the stock receiver and transferred it to the Turnigy receiver to use less space in the car. I wanted to use the small connector on the servo so I removed corresponding plug from the stock receiver and soldered it on the Turnigy receiver after desoldering the standard pins from the Turnigy. I then hardwired the esc to the channel 2 lands on the Turnigy receiver and adapted the plastic case to hold the hybrid receiver/esc.
Using the stock AMZ 7.4v. lipo really wakes up the throttle and steering responses compared to the 3.7v I used on the Mini-Z conversion! I haven't installed a transponder yet but it definitely seems faster. On my small 8 by 12 ft. track, it's overkill, but really fun. I had to dial back end points on throttle and steering to 50% just to have control. I use the same body on both versions. Let me know if there are any questions.
Bob

[dameetz]

Do you think the servo can somehow be mounted in lay down position? Also can you list down important parts that need to be replace to the option ones?

Thanks.

[67 Mustang]

I think it would be difficult to lay the servo down because of the top structure which stiffens the chassis a great deal. It seems that you wouldn't want to eliminate that structure and I don't see any way to lay down the servo without weakening or eliminating the top structure. The top view pics I posted will help visualize this.
I'm not sure which parts you're referring to. I used the receiver that came with the Turnigy transmitter. You could use the same technique on any brand receiver of the correct size. I used the stock esc that comes with the car and just desoldered the three connections between the receiver and esc boards and then hardwired the esc to the receiver printed circuit lands of the Turnigy receiver.
The steering linkage I made was from some old helicopter parts I've had and not used for years. It was an E-sky heli and I got it from X-heli. I don't know if they are still stocking parts but you might look on their website. I think most any 450 heli parts would work. I would look for a "linkage rod" replacement set. The rod is about 30mm. long with a 1.5 mm. diameter.
Let me know if this is the info you wanted and if there are any questions.
Bob

[Mrs Mini-Z]

Hi!
Just wanted to let you all know that we have both the 2WD AMR RTR and Kit on sale:

Save $10 on the Atomic 2WD AMR RTR Chassis and Transmitter Set (2.4GHz FHSS) (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=23171&cat=0&page=1&featured) with the coupon code JUNEAMRRTR.

Save $10 on the Atomic 2WD AMR Assembly Kit Tx-Less Chassis Set (2.4GHz FHSS) (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=23164&cat=0&page=1&featured) with the coupon code JUNEAMRKIT.

Also, in case you didn't hear, we've got GoGoLap (http://shop.tinyrc.com/manufacturers.php?manufacturerid=90) in stock and ready to ship!!

If you have any questions, let me know at: shophelp@tinyrc.com
Thanks!
Meridith :)

[john.c]

Hi guys, I recently picked up the Atomic AMZ 2WD International Ver and I’m now looking for a suitable. The description indicates that both the lexan and ABS bodies are compatible with optional parts. What optional parts do I need to mount a lexan body? I only see the 4wd lexan mounting kit on Atomic’s website and it does not appear that the rear piece would work on the 2wd. If I need to run a ABS body, what Kyohso Mini-Z Autoscale body would work best on the 98 wheelbase configuration? Thanks in advance.

[arch2b]

Jumping ahead, there are a good deal of bodies available for 98mm wheelbase. I would recommend checking out http://mini-z-guide.com/bodies.htm and checking to see what are most commonly run on your local track. If not used on a track, pick what most interests you.

[john.c]

Thanks for posting the link. This is excellent and exactly what I was looking/hoping for. I guess I'll start with the Audi R8 body and slowly build up the collection. I love the scale realism of these bodies.

[arch2b]

The scale look of the car is what drew and keeps me in mini-z and shapes my purpose or style of racing vs end goal of ultimately being the fastest.

Glad I'm not alone in getting into the scale and detail :)

[lfisminiz]

The scale look of the car is what drew and keeps me in mini-z and shapes my purpose or style of racing vs end goal of ultimately being the fastest.

Glad I'm not alone in getting into the scale and detail :)

Same here, Ray!! ;)

[john.c]

I received my AMZ 2WD over the weekend. I went through each bag and my initial impressions were positive. There's a lot of plastic pieces so I’ve started to load up my cart with all of the aluminum hop ups that are available. This chassis is going to cost as much as my 10th scale cars when I’m done. Ouch!

Does anyone know if the servo in the the international kit is digital or analog? I suspect it's analog but wanted to check with you guys first. Also, has anyone tried the optional ball diff yet? The gear diff does feel smooth (w/o any lube yet) but I’d prefer the optional ball diff for ease of tuning.

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[DMALMAD]

I received my AMZ 2WD over the weekend. I went through each bag and my initial impressions were positive. There's a lot of plastic pieces so I’ve started to load up my cart with all of the aluminum hop ups that are available. This chassis is going to cost as much as my 10th scale cars when I’m done. Ouch!

Does anyone know if the servo in the the international kit is digital or analog? I suspect it's analog but wanted to check with you guys first. Also, has anyone tried the optional ball diff yet? The gear diff does feel smooth (w/o any lube yet) but I’d prefer the optional ball diff for ease of tuning.

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Why spend so much money on a chassis that is less useful than its counterpart (the 4wd AMZ) and even less useful than say the MRX or even 03 chassis? Run it as is stock there is nothing wrong with it if you are kicking around the 10th scale track. If you want a real performer look into the X-power MRX (or maybe even my pan car :p: demracing.net) but if you are just having fun stick with what you have, all the aluminum is just bling in all seriousness and the stock servo is fine but if you want something better try the corona ds919 from hobby king as it is 8 bucks compared to the 36 of the atomic digital mg and I have both and can say they are equally good with different price tags :) Spend money on tires before you buy expensive bling, but I will say that from what I have heard the ball diff is a worthwhile upgrade.

[john.c]

I’m new to the micro scale so I really appreciate everyone’s feedback and helpful advice. I’m trying to understand your comment about the Atomic 2wd being less useful than their 4wd offering. Did you mean less capable? I checked out the X-Power 4wd IMT and the DMR pan car and they are both very cool. I’ve raced 12th scale pan cars and know first hand how capable they are on carpet running foam tires. I chose the Atomic 2wd version due to the simplicity (2wd drivetrain), electronic layout, and weight balance/bias. Also, I prefer independent suspension vs. the solid axle in the rear when running rubber tires. Most importantly, the decision between LiPO vs NiCD/NiMH battery was a no brainer which ruled out the Kyosho cars. I will look into the servo from Hobby King, that price is killer. The ball diff is sold out everywhere so I’ll need to wait for that to come back in stock.

I’m moving to VA in the Fall and I do plan on racing this car in the mod class at my local RCP track. The rules for their mod class is very open with the only restriction being no silicone tires. From what I’ve seen online (Youtube videos), the track size is on the smaller side compared to the other tracks. I’m not convinced that 4wd and high HP is required to be competitive there. I guess I'll find out in the Fall. There are no 10th scale indoor tracks in that area so I do plan on sticking with micro racing. I’ll have some time to figure it out (eventually).


EDIT: I looked at the MRX. That is NICE!! Price is not so nice :(

[arch2b]

look forward to having you join us at Hobby Works in the fall. :p

indeed, our Mod class is rather lenient and yes, foam tires are permitted. the are some people that use foam tires for mini-z just as there are some that use rubber slot tires. just no additives for any tires that leave residue on the track. for Mod class, we are limited to 3 wide L layouts for the most part. it's 1/3 larger than HFAY layouts we also run on HFAY dates. outright speed is seldom the deciding factor in our group as some of the top guys run one or two cars for all classes (HFAY, Stock, 86-90mm, Mod).

back to the topic on hand...
whatever your choice, you'll find company in our group as it is an eclectic collection of just about everything which i very much enjoy. there are currently no less than 3 drivers running mini-z scale lexan body, mod chassis platforms of one kind or the other. Hobby Works only carries kyosho parts for mini-z scale so anything else will need to be purchased elsewhere or from locals. there are no shortage of trades, sales to be had at events. ;) there are plenty of guys in the group that also run large scale and can point you in the right direction on where to go if you need to scratch that itch.

[DMALMAD]

Yes I was refering to atomic 4wd as on carpet it seemed to do better than the atomic 2wd, but hands down the mrx, std 03 chassis, or even the DMR will beat the atomic 2wd no matter the tire. I can honestly say that stay away from the x-power 4wd and even the atomic stuff for rcp. The 4wd stuff is cool in theory but noticably slower than 2wd and always a pain as far as setup and tires are concerned. The X-power design was good in theory but the excecution and sacrifices made for electronics and suspension make the car a real handful and a terrible driving experience. I personally have the MRX, IDT, and of course my own DMR :p but I cannot really tell too much difference between the mrx and mine except price and versatility, plus no t-bars is a plus. However the MRX is probably easier to setup but if you have more experience with the 1/12th the pivot rear is probably more familiar, I think the DMR has the ability to be much faster but track time and more setup is needed. But yes for racing I would go away from the atomic stuff since that was designed for low grip silicon tire racing conditions. If foam is avialable to you I would stick with X-Power tires as the price and quality and performance make them unbeatable compared to what else is out there, plus the foam will always be faster than rubber.

I cover a lot of the beginner and even more advanced questions that most people have here(I do not cover the atomic amr 2wd but I am sorry to say it is not as viable an option as the other products avialable): https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ECQqRMzAbSPbGdtAusfqkKxxYeBdhcp7tpNdOBl92HA/edit

[john.c]

Thanks for the info and suggestion guys! I am going to stick with the AMZ 2wd and see how it stacks up with the competition. I haven’t started the build yet so I can’t comment on the build quality. However, I believe it will rotate well and carry good corner speed on high bite conditions based on the design and electronics layout. I do plan on upgrading to a digital servo and the optional ball diff as I don’t have confidence in the stock components. Driving skills aside, I don't see whey this chassis can't/won't compete with the Kyosho and X-Power offerings. I have limited experience with setting up and racing micro scale cars on a RCP track so I may be missing something here. If this car turns out to be a dud, I'll chalk it up to a learning experience and quickly move on to another platform.

[mleemor60]

The Hobby Works group is a great group of people. You won't have any issues with qualified assistance with whatever you need. Go and enjoy. I have.

[byebye]

Thanks for the info and suggestion guys! I am going to stick with the AMZ 2wd and see how it stacks up with the competition. I haven’t started the build yet so I can’t comment on the build quality. However, I believe it will rotate well and carry good corner speed on high bite conditions based on the design and electronics layout. I do plan on upgrading to a digital servo and the optional ball diff as I don’t have confidence in the stock components. Driving skills aside, I don't see whey this chassis can't/won't compete with the Kyosho and X-Power offerings. I have limited experience with setting up and racing micro scale cars on a RCP track so I may be missing something here. If this car turns out to be a dud, I'll chalk it up to a learning experience and quickly move on to another platform.

Will it be a dud? Eh maybe on the first day. Everyone except Andy has a tough first day. This scale is my only experience but from our experience the first day is always nerve racking as everyone around you has years of experience with pit gear, race setup, and track time.

Leave your expectations low :p. Show up early to get on the track before the crowd. Find one person and stick to them the whole day. We are an easy going group and everyone is very helpful.

I too plan on running an AMZ at some point. While the chassis isn't new to market it hasn't caught on at our club simply because we're already invested in Kyosho stuff. I plan to borrow an AMZ from one of our club members this weekend and will do some test and tune and see if I can't get it around the track with the best of them.

Kris

[mleemor60]

Can anybody provide a non social media link for the AMR instruction manual. Something printable.

[mleemor60]

Anyone? Anyone?

[arch2b]

it's on their main website, Manual and Setup Sheet (http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/egr_manual/AMZ001_manual.pdf)

sorry, thread title is AMZ, this is the AMR... Manual and Setup Sheet (http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/egr_manual/AMR001-manual.pdf)

[mleemor60]

Got it R. Thanks for all.

[durtbag]

Im trying to build this kit and the optional ball diff just won't fit, it seems to be over 2mm too wide.... not even close.
Ive built the AMZ 4WD and the BZ, they were fine and work really well. But this kit does not seem good at all.

[mleemor60]

Make sure you are using the bearings that come with the ball dif. They are a tad narrower.

[durtbag]

Make sure you are using the bearings that come with the ball dif. They are a tad narrower.

yeah, i'm using the narrow bearings. found that the outdrives won't seat fully into the alloy hubs bc the locating pins on the back of the OD's won't seat in the alignment holes in the alloy hub halves. i also found that the diff locknut does not clear the inside of the OD, so the outdrive does not seat fully.:( if i remove the o-ring, the OD fits in deeper.

so i sanded the pins on the OD's and made them more of a dimple and removed the o-ring, with these changes have reduced the overall width of the diff so that it fits in the case, still too tight.

working on it.

[byebye]

Yeah that's obviously not going to fit.

Kris

[durtbag]

Yeah that's obviously not going to fit.

Kris

Well, I did get it to work but there was way to much fettling for my liking. An Option Parts should not be this much work.:mad:

Having said that, the car performs really well for the cost. Having a home track to test and tune, I was able to get lap times just slightly slower than the BZ or AMZ 4WD so far. Only had it four days..:D

Terry

[durtbag]

Update: after ordering a replacement parts set for the ball diff, I find that I was supplied two left side out drives in the Ball diff Kit I purchased:confused:. The correct right hand side out drive moves the bearing inboard and is indexed for the Diff Nut..
Made a huge difference :rolleyes:

[TheRinger]

I've been thinking of buying an AMR chassis, just would like to know what I would need to get one running? Esc? Battery? Can you drive one with an ex-6?

[mleemor60]

The ones that I have are ASF.

[arch2b]

assuming you use the GoGo receiver, it's ASF. Is it the very same receiver used in the GLA?

[durtbag]

Finally came up with a simple fix for the poorly designed rear shock tower that rock from side to side making for crap performance.
I just made a couple stand-offs of brass tubing and replaced the rear diff cover screws with some longer counter sunk ones, now the tower is supported underneath and doesn't rock. Made a huge difference.