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DMALMAD
2015.01.25, 10:26 PM
Ok.... I don't really know where to begin but whatever here we go. So awhile I had heard the rumor that PN was making a new 2wd chassis but recently I have learned that this is true but will most likely be plastic and support nimh bateries. With this news I knew that If I wanted a new more modern pan chassis in the 1/28th scale I had to make my own. So With this in mind I have attached a pdf with the rough draft of what it will most likely look like. It will have a front end which will have camber and caster adjustment and it will run the spring underneath the static lower a arm. This is similar to the reflex front end in the spring under but is more like the crc xti as that is the most simple and most popular 1/12 pan chassis out there. The main design feature of the front end is the pivoting upper a arm and an adjustable turnbuckle incorporated into the upper a-arm for camber adjustment. The rear end will be a link style on a captured pivot ball. It will use the pn trishocks (not pictured) and a kyosho top shock. It will use an atomic or most likely x-power 2s battery. I have not included the batter or the battery stays as I do not have either of these things on hand but on friday i will have both to see ;). Also not pictured is the servo mount as I will not have a 1/28th or 1/24th servo until friday. The front end is near completion as the geometry and measurements are basically ready but the motor pod needs some work. I lost my calipers halfway through designing this so the motor pod isn't as ready as the front end and that is why this is mainly a rough draft as I am stuck at this point until I can make it out to harbor freight to get a new caliper which will also likely be friday:(. The good news is I have a pretty decent 3d printer at my disposal so I will have the front end made within the week and if everything goes smoothly I will be able to to have all the plastics ready to test within two weeks. I plan on having the motor mount in aluminum but have to have everything in plastic to test fit before that is ready to be ordered. Once all the plastics have been made I will try and get the cf cnc'd but that is my biggest roadblock as every quote i get for a small production of cf chassis is very expensive. Back to business... The main reason I am posting this is to see if there is any interest for people to get these because I could easily sell the plastic bits on shapeways and sell the chassis and links, balls, screws, and shims and motor pod separate. The balls and steering/chassis links will be the ones that atomic uses as they are affordable and the right size. It will also most likely use a stock gear diff or pn ball diff (whatever you prefer) and standard bearings, rims, and rear ride height adjusters. The goal of this chassis is to be an open platform with the new sensored system coming out from x-power or the brushless system available from atomic. Either way it will have plenty of options for the end user to choose from.

Now give me your feedback. I plan to put in options to run asc bodies and lexan bodies but will have to wait until i get the calipers. The wheelbase is going to be 98 but I could make the motor pod like the crc and coul possibly accomadate 96 and 100. Let me know what you guys think... am I way out of line or is this something that people would be looking to buy? The plan is to make it cheap by 3d printing most of it and if I have to make the chassis out of aluminum that could work to as I fear it may end up being too light. Please leave feedback it would be much appreciated.

Also forgot to mention that if the upper arm look like it is not together that is because there will be a turnbuckle in between the two separate pieces. I also wanted to add that this will use as many already available parts like springs, kingpins, and everything else mentioned above to keep costs low. The main force behind this is to get an open platform into the 1/28th scale so that more bigger scale guys will join the scale. The goal would be to sell this at under 200$ no matter what if I can't get it under 200 to break even I will most likely make this a one off. anyways let me know what you guys think.

DMALMAD
2015.01.26, 04:00 PM
Updated the chassis a bit so here it is with the top shock mount and the battery stay base. Still waiting on some measurement to finalize everything but I have some interesting plans and possibly a collaboration in the works to get some stuff done so bear with me right now. And seriously no body has any feedback:eek:. Good bad or indifferent any criticism or ideas would be great.

mleemor60
2015.01.26, 04:39 PM
Hopefully there will be something a little better presented before anybody jumps in with any feedback. As presented it looks extremely crude and actually a step backwards from what is available now. It needs to get beyond the stick figure presentation to be fair. What is being shown probably shouldn't have been leaked.

Just my opinion. To what has been presented.

DMALMAD
2015.01.26, 05:47 PM
I understand that and like I already said it is just a mock up I simply want input on what people would like in a chassis. This is just a base to work from and it is not going to be a sophisticated chassis that incorporates a kyosho board or anything like that. But I wouldn't consider it a step back when it uses modern 1/12 features and is open to anything available and able to use products and components already available. Just because something doesn't use nimh and a t-plate doesn't mean its a step back. And just to be clear this by no means the final draft just something to get the ideas flowing thats all. Thank you for your input.

mleemor60
2015.01.26, 06:47 PM
Not trying to be mean to you but just because something incorporates modern 1/12th technology doesn't make it better. You have to consider economy of scale. To make something equal to an existing larger part the price goes up exponentially to maintain the quality. Nano technology is much costlier than micro technology.

I'm all for a 1/28th scale RC car with modern technology that can be a bridge to the larger scales. A true "modified" platform like the MRX would be a godsend. There are several useable 1/28th platforms out there already they just never caught on very well here in the U.S. because the standard Z is such a reliable platform to work with. If you check some of the European sites you will see what I am speaking of. If they had a drawback it was in the steering because of the low 4.8V electronics we worked with couldn't properly drive the servo. The advent of lipo's to the scale will open a lot of new doors for the scale. What will soon be faced is the dilution of the market for any of the offerings. Then it will truly be like 1/12th scale where we all kept buying the car of the week in order to keep up until everybody(ask Tommy Lane) got fed up and went 1/8th scale racing to save money. It's been since 1985 for me but I still have a footlocker full of old 1/12th junk. The more complicated they made it the fewer guys kept up.

Again. I am for the progress up to and including the new X-Power wanna be 28th scale touring car. We should welcome all of them to the fold and let anybody that has too much disposable income to come and race in conjunction with us but not with us. When the dust finally settles the Z's will still be running as what they are and the rest of the stuff will be in a drawer somewhere. Except for the tiny niches of insanity scattered around the country.

Just my opinion but then again I speak from experience.

DMALMAD
2015.01.26, 07:23 PM
This PROJECT is not an attempt to replace the regular 03 or to prove that it is outdated (even though it is) but merely my experiment that I am looking to share with other people who would like to see something a little different. This may end up being just a custom one off and I would be fine with that. I am not looking to make a large production run or any at all but simply share my experiences through the different steps of a multi faceted project such as this. My main qualm with the 03 is not the lack of options when it comes to buying a radio or the lack of options for a decent speed control (in the context of the ve board, the brushed board is excellent and top notch) or even the frailty of the plastic but rather the tweak associated with t-plate rear end. Nothing is worse than battling tweak or worse breaking a tplate on a tq run or amain win. I am simply looking to incorporate a true captured pivot ball rear end ( not like the slop monster called the gimball) so that rear end is more adaptable and more durable. I am not here to debate aftermarket chassis v.s. 03 this neither the time nor place. This is more of a build thread than anything else and if there is interest, which there seems to be very little, than I will just make one for myself an leave it at that. either way I would like to share my experiences through this process and do not wish to argue.

mleemor60
2015.01.26, 08:31 PM
Good for you. Please continue and share away.

byebye
2015.01.26, 11:14 PM
Yeah please continue. I think you're on the right track.

ivanmartin18
2015.01.27, 08:38 AM
It's for sure a good starting point and it's always a laudable effort when someone tries to do something new.

As already said someone above, it's a quite embrional design and you have to go a step forward to get useful feedbacks.

At the moment, i think you have to work much more on the front end that seems a bit leak, it looks like a small bump will destroy everything. Make a lot of research and take inspiration from 1/12 scale but keeping in mind the dimensions of 1/28 scale. It's not as simple as scaling down everything.

A very important element to think is the servo saver, almost every time that a custom build chassis is designed, this element is forgotten. Take a look to this one i designed for my MP-V4B https://www.shapeways.com/product/MRPM9X92P/servo-saver-futaba-s3114?key=433c581ff6a1af3a9a576a5b7c5d3c74

DMALMAD
2015.01.28, 09:39 AM
Taking the fragile nature of the front end into consideration I have updated it to be much bulkier and finally I got the measurements accurate for the front end. Still working on the rear end but here is the updated front end. I plan on using the reflex 4.8mm delrin balls and kingpin package. Due to the snow I was not able to start the 3d printing but will have the front end made next week to test fit and to make sure it is smooth and after that I will work on getting the chassis cut and putting together the car. I will update later with the 3d printed front end.

DMALMAD
2015.02.19, 03:44 AM
finalized for the most part now I just have to wait on qoutes and see how long it will be for me to get it all made. What you see in white will most likely be cf and the green parts will first be made by 3d printing first and then if it all works aluminum. I know it looks a little funky with the rear body mount but that is the only thing that will most likely change.

DMALMAD
2015.03.08, 02:06 PM
Have printed the front end a couple of times with a 3d printer but I am still working on the correct settings to get it as accurate as it needs to be. Here is the final revision. The front end appears to be strong enough in plastic pla but plan is to make out of aluminum or delrin.

DMALMAD
2015.03.18, 12:18 AM
Ok been a while since I last posted here but recently my design has changed a little bit. The front end is compatible with reflex upper tower bar, arms, knuckles, kingpins, low profile suspension, and suspension balls and may be compatible with the pn dbl a arm. But I am not going to release pictures until I have the prototype in my hands which, if all goes well, will be in the next two weeks. I had a outside party contact me to make the prototypes and a production run may very well be possible depending on the performance of the prototypes! Based on the feedback I have recieved (or lack thereof) it appears that there might not be as much interest for a 1/27th scale link chassis as I thought but if this is something that interests you (If it proves to be faster and more consistent) then speak up so that a production run can happen. Right now it is still early but based on the manufacturer the chassis will be easily made and won't be that expensive considering the materials that I plan to use. Anyways let me know and speak up for what front end or motor pod (still a maybe if im going to make it open to any motor pod) you would like to see!

DMALMAD
2015.04.20, 04:52 PM
WOW! so it has been a while but I have finally recieved my prototype chassis and most of the parts that I need to build it. Here is a picture of where I am at now and all I am waiting on is some hardware, a servo and esc, and all the links. I am also in the process of tapping the rear metal shock bulkhead/upright. Everything seems to fit well and the carbon looks awesome:cool: Anyways here is a picture of my progress:http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0317_zpsryoxngn9.jpg

Let me know what you guys think. The lower arms and the rear pivot point all work silky smooth which suprised me because of how rough the shapeways plastic is but everything seems to be working well. I am very anxious to get this thing built and track tested and we will go from there. Depending on what happens an oval chassis is in the pipeline I just have to learn oval setup a little more to see what will work best:)

Jshwaa
2015.04.20, 05:21 PM
Pretty cool, man. What was the objective of the chassis design, to fit lipos?

DMALMAD
2015.04.20, 05:27 PM
Lipo was a given but I wanted to incorporate a link style 1/12th rear end with the versatility of an open electronics packages. I have to shave a little material off the motor mount but a sensored motor will be going in this bad boy so this will most likely be the first true 2wd sensored bl with pivot ball/tri-shock mini z.

lfisminiz
2015.04.20, 07:04 PM
Looks good. Keep us posted.

DMALMAD
2015.04.20, 08:05 PM
thks:) It looks like I will be using the atomic mg digital servo as I have seen that that servo can be utilized for what I need. I should have the front end ready this friday and by next friday I should be able to get some track time.

DMALMAD
2015.04.20, 10:22 PM
Couple more photos that have a little better light. Got the front end mounted except I am missing those two tiny upper arm screws so I have to wait for those to come in. Also does anyone know of some good M2 metric taps? I have the rear shock stay made out of steel but can't get the screws to thread so I might just order that in plastic too. Also does anyone know what kind of drill bit I should be using to countersink the holes? Saw some machining countersinks but they are kind of pricey. If you have any sugestions just let me know.
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0318_zpsmy3hhn5c.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0320_zpsexbcjth8.jpg

Jshwaa
2015.04.21, 01:29 AM
Lipo was a given but I wanted to incorporate a link style 1/12th rear end with the versatility of an open electronics packages. I have to shave a little material off the motor mount but a sensored motor will be going in this bad boy so this will most likely be the first true 2wd sensored bl with pivot ball/tri-shock mini z.

Nice. 2WD is fun, but I'm beginning to look towards AWD for higher power setups, as there just seems to be no way to beef up a 2WD rear end to stay behind the front tires when giving it a good throttle. I hope your system is more stable in that regard, but I'm afraid the standard rims are just too narrow to provide the friction necessary to make the extra power useful. You will spend a lot of your time on the front end of your throttle switch just to stay going forward. Little too much, and there goes the rear. If you can ween in on it easy enough to get some speed, you can then hammer on it and rocket off to the other side of the track, but you really have to be subtle about it. Maybe I wasn't conservative enough with my gearing, but I'd hate to think that because I put more power in my car that now I have to do things to slow it down. At any rate, good luck and keep the pictures coming. They are more fun to look at.

byebye
2015.04.21, 05:25 AM
Looks great so far.

DMALMAD
2015.04.21, 08:13 AM
Nice. 2WD is fun, but I'm beginning to look towards AWD for higher power setups, as there just seems to be no way to beef up a 2WD rear end to stay behind the front tires when giving it a good throttle. I hope your system is more stable in that regard, but I'm afraid the standard rims are just too narrow to provide the friction necessary to make the extra power useful. You will spend a lot of your time on the front end of your throttle switch just to stay going forward. Little too much, and there goes the rear. If you can ween in on it easy enough to get some speed, you can then hammer on it and rocket off to the other side of the track, but you really have to be subtle about it. Maybe I wasn't conservative enough with my gearing, but I'd hate to think that because I put more power in my car that now I have to do things to slow it down. At any rate, good luck and keep the pictures coming. They are more fun to look at.
This chassis is really geared only to the absolute performance minded racer. Currently with either rubber tires rcp or foam carpet there is no lack of traction. Currently on foam carpet we run 32t tweaked motors with 7.4v lipo and there is no lack of traction. Rear end stays glued and we have tons of steering just watch our race videos. I think if anything it is time to be moving towards a lighter more nimble car. If anything AWD is more finnicky and at speed you run into a lot of issues.

Jshwaa
2015.04.21, 08:54 AM
This chassis is really geared only to the absolute performance minded racer. Currently with either rubber tires rcp or foam carpet there is no lack of traction. Currently on foam carpet we run 32t tweaked motors with 7.4v lipo and there is no lack of traction. Rear end stays glued and we have tons of steering just watch our race videos. I think if anything it is time to be moving towards a lighter more nimble car. If anything AWD is more finnicky and at speed you run into a lot of issues.

Does the foam/carpet have somewhat of a velcro effect? Seriously, lipo and 32T and no control issues? Hard to believe.

Don't let weight be as much of a hindrance on your design as much as how you displace it. If the design objective is only to cram the most store bought components on a slab of carbon fiber in an order that appears as if you've sneezed them on the car, the performance will show regardless.

What issues 'at speed' are you referring to with AWD? The issues I find with AWD is cost, and more moving parts leads to more breakdown potential, but performance-wise these little cars do nothing but benefit.

DMALMAD
2015.04.21, 10:21 AM
You tell me if there is control issues: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlhqzkQpxQ8

You represent mini-z bashers, this is most likely going to be a one-off or a small production run aimed for mini-z RACERS. Most race on prepared race surfaces specifically designed for mini-z. I have never experienced your sentiments because I don't race on the surface you do. Surface and tires is 90% of racing like I have always said. I think you are trying to find a solution for a problem that is not there. This chassis is to improve the suspension and allow open electronics packages to increase performance. When the prototype is complete I may look into different chassis options as I have a number of different designs I have but so far this is the one that I think will be the most succesful but only track times will tell. Comparitevly this layout puts more weight towards the rear f the car like the transverse v.s. in-line 1/12th cars which should yeild more steering. Currently (like I have already stated) tractin issues is a non-issue. I appreciate your input but it is not suited for the purposes of this chassis.

As for the AWD torque steer and breakages are a serious issue. Also eradict handling is also an issue. The AWD tweak easy but I guess if your only inention is micro rc speed runs then maybe an awd would be better suited for your purposes.

Jshwaa
2015.04.21, 11:02 AM
Neat video...

All those cars were 2WD?

No, I don't see control issues. Actually, I see that the race came down to who had the least mistakes as it should have, more than one car having WAY better performance than a moderately modified mini-z, and I would bet that most of it came down to a fancy radio with good settings and a practiced knowledge of the track.

No bashing here, just curiosity. Like how you could have traction that could be described as allowing you to drive up a wall, without having a lick of hindrance on your forward motion. That is weird....however if the hindrance is equal on all racers that does lead to a good race. You're right, I don't even run on mini-z tracks. Just try to maximize as cheaply as I can, however that is relative I guess because I've spent way more than I've anticipated.

DMALMAD
2015.04.21, 12:25 PM
We all race with pretty much the same equipment except with some slight variations to match our drifferent driving style. This race I won because I had managed my tires very well and was able to minimize mistakes but also because I had tq and was able to get into a rythm early on. Our club represents a small portion of the racing community not only because we run foam tires and lipo but also because everyone spends hundreds and thousands on their gear. Of the competitive racers I probably run the most budget. I have a used radio and although it is a high quality Ko propo helios it is not the 500$ ex-1.

As for the traction different foam tires have different effects. Certain compounds give more forward grip but less lateral, some decrease corner speed but really lock the car in. It really depends on setup and tire maintanance. All the cars there are 2wd, the 4wd cars are at least 3 tenths a lap slower but on this paticular layout it is closer to 1/2 second a lap.

Anyways back on topic, does anyone have a suggestion for a motor pod that you would like to be made compatibe with this? I might try and design it so that the motor pod screws on to the link part of the current chassis and to accomodate it I would redesign the shock layout. Anyways let me know.

DMALMAD
2015.04.25, 04:23 PM
So I got the front end completed and it is butter smooth. I had to tweak it a little (flip upper arms upside down) and polish the reflex kingpins a little but it feels just right. Speaking of just right, I was amazed at how tight yet smooth the rear pivot is. There is no slop in any direction but it moves absolutely free. There is no hint of it catching or sticking which is great. I also fitted the battery and put the shock parts on to give an idea of how it is going to work. Now all I am waiting on is the links and the servo and the plastic rear shock stay. Recently shapeways added a 3d printed stainless steel medium but it looks like it is too strong! Basically I had a hard time finding a metric tap so when I tappped it using sae hardware the threads didn't work right. A little disapointing but the shapeways plastic is very sturdy and should do the job with ease. Anyway here are some pictures to show my progress thus far:
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0321_zpsnimtsbj0.jpg

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0322_zpsrxcylp9c.jpg

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0323_zpszp6f4pfp.jpg

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0324_zpsy5z8j2m6.jpg

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0325_zpsdv6szxlu.jpg

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0326_zps2diauje2.jpg

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0327_zpsstrg6qvf.jpg

DMALMAD
2015.05.03, 02:00 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9plI3JnPT28&feature=youtu.be

AHA! The steering works! I finally got my most of my mail in and got the steering servo mounted and all the links installed. The rear links work well and the pod has plenty of articulation. But the Steering is awesome. Super smooth with this atomic digital metal gear servo. The way the links are makes the steering precise, even more so than the 03 because there is no slop but everything moves freely. Also there is no bump steer. I was contemplating a drag link system to save space for my esc but this just works so well I cannot bring myself to do it. However, since the servo is mounted dead center on the chassis ther is not enough room to mount all the electronics. Also I have discovered that the sensored motor will not fit so with that in mind i designed a new chassis that I have taken a considerable amount of material from the pod so that I could elongate the main chassis enough fit all the electronics. So now I am delayed another week or so while I wait for the new chassis but am pretty happy with the progress because basically once I get the next chassis everything will be working properly and I can hopefuly put some laps down.:cool:

DMALMAD
2015.05.03, 06:04 PM
May have found a solution to my space issue. Does anyone have any experience with the hobbyking 10a micro sensorless speed control. It has a decent amount of programable functions and should be plenty powerful. The part number is 913000001. Either way I already am getting the chassis with extra space but I think this will just make things easier and allow me to use the car before my updated chassis comes in. I am even thinking about getting two of these to try and fit one into an MRX. If anyone else is reviving an MRCG or something else like that it is worth giving the Hobby King esc a look as it is only 12 dollars shipped from the USA:eek:

arch2b
2015.05.03, 08:54 PM
Sounds like good development, look forward to see and hear how the revised chassis fits and runs.

DMALMAD
2015.05.03, 10:19 PM
Thanks! I contacted the guy helping me out and he was pretty quick when it came to getting the chassis cut the first time but he is wrapped up in some larger scale stuff right now so it could be a little longer than I first expected. Anyways the build continues, right now I am trying to work in an inline battery solution but unless the car is struggling with rear grip when I get my esc in I will probably stick with the transverse pack.

On a side note, I know I have asked this a couple of times but does anyone think that using a completete rear mini-z pod would make this design any better? I have started modeling another version but unless someone chimes in I do not see the value in it despite the fact that I keep debating with myself whether it would be useful or not. Anyways, just thinking out loud here any feedback on the matter would be greatly appreciated:)

DMALMAD
2015.05.04, 09:14 PM
Well I caught a break and the DMR Mini-zPC ver. 2 is being on its way! A small design change but I thought that I would throw up a picture of whats its going to look like. Had to trim a little material for wheel cleerance but even still there will be plenty of room to mount the x-power or atomic esc and maybe even one 18th scale esc that I might try if the price is right.

doug01n
2015.05.05, 11:06 AM
I saw the whole thread, including pics, but still don't undestand how the T-bar substitute linking works. Can you show some pics of it with more detail, or even unmounted?

A very nice construction, by the way.

DMALMAD
2015.05.05, 11:29 AM
Sure, I have attatched a cad pic of how it is sort of assembeled. Basically there is a standard 2.4mm radius (4.8mm diameter )pivot ball sitting in the capture block. It rotates smoothly but will not leave the block. This way the pod has smooth articulation and no slop which is different than the gimbal which has multiple axis of rotation on hingpins. The captured pivot ball allows full 360 degree movement unrestricted and also is less prone to slop because A. it has less moving parts and B. It has a larger surface area contact for where the rotation is occuring. The side links (not pictured) attatch the rear pod to the chassis and keeps the pod straight and restricts some rotation This ensures that the pod will be centered and will not flop around. The actual friction and suspension will come from the tri shock sytem on top. As the pod pivots it will engage the three different dampning systems. This is the same consept as the 12th scale cars except dumbed down a little so that I could make everything out of 3d printed parts. I could have gone all out and thrown up a complete 12th scale pod where the rear ride height is adjusted with either shims or a sliding mechanism but machinnig aluminum in small quantities would cost a fortune. For example one of the later pod revisions I tried designing that is simmilar to the top rebel 1/12th would have cost me nearly 350$ to get made! For my prototypes I have not included a side spring as the springs already sit on the trishocks but I may try adding some side springs later on.

Anyways hope the pic helps. I will try and take a video of the pod articulation later today.

DMALMAD
2015.05.11, 06:43 PM
Pretty much there just waiting on some basic hardware (2x10 screws) and some lock nuts. Also I can't decide on which motor to get. I want to try out the scorpion but its a pain to have to wait to get it from over seas. I will test with this chassis layout but am still waiting for my ver 2.0 chassis:p anyways let me know what you think and pardon the messy wires... that will changehttp://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0344_zps56iganzn.jpg

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0345_zpsvscj5v7k.jpg

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0343_zpsg2vjlswt.jpg

lfisminiz
2015.05.11, 07:18 PM
Looks interesting. Have you run it yet?

DMALMAD
2015.05.11, 07:58 PM
Not yet:( Hopefully this Friday if I can get some body posts that are long enough

tudor_47
2015.05.12, 02:37 AM
Pretty much there just waiting on some basic hardware (2x10 screws) and some lock nuts. Also I can't decide on which motor to get. I want to try out the scorpion but its a pain to have to wait to get it from over seas. I will test with this chassis layout but am still waiting for my ver 2.0 chassis:p anyways let me know what you think and pardon the messy wires... that will change

Looking good,

We (Lajf Racing, lajf.se) have run the ESC you have there and using the PNracing motors it will cog alot, when it gets going it works good. By adjusting the starting power, using the setting card for the ESC, to the max, it cogs a little less and it gets more drivable. We were using a 360mAh lipo cell
We have not been able to test the ESC with a different brand of motor.
We ran our test in our P28GT Lipo prototype chassi.

Keep us posted on your progress.
/Johnny

DMALMAD
2015.05.12, 07:59 AM
Thanks for the heads up on the cogging. I will most likely use the pn motor too so we will see. when my other chassis comes I may end up buying either the atomic or x-power esc depending on this ones performance. Anyway I am very hopeful.

arch2b
2015.05.12, 11:04 AM
Just a warning on the scorpion motor, the end cap tends to pop off.

DMALMAD
2015.05.12, 09:39 PM
Is it serious and does it happen often or can just a dab of CA resolve it? Thanks for the heads up I will probably stick with the atomic or pn.

arch2b
2015.05.13, 10:07 AM
It's serious when your car slows in a race because the motor can separates from the endbell. Would have to check on what type of glue would be appropriate for heat.

ivanmartin18
2015.05.14, 08:33 AM
Very nice work, i like a lot how it's coming out!

DMALMAD
2015.05.14, 05:33 PM
Thx's I will be testing the car tomorrow if everything goes right and will post a video of it performance if it does well. All fingers crossed:D

mleemor60
2015.05.14, 08:42 PM
You should post the video even if it goes badly. Write up where you have difficulty and wait for the critiques come in to help out.

lfisminiz
2015.05.14, 10:17 PM
Good point.;)

DMALMAD
2015.05.16, 12:18 PM
Did not get to run it yesterday, I couldn't find any body posts long enough. maybe I will get to run it next week on oval:cool:

Edit:
On a side note, what are the best 03 aluminum knuckles? I broke one of the stock knuckles just playing with the steering during a bench test so it is pretty clear that the plastic ones are not going to hold up. I tried drilling out some dbl a-arm knuckles that were broken and I got the screw system to work but they are much longer and threw off the ride height and camber settings so I am thinking that some regular al knuckles would be the way to go.

DMALMAD
2015.05.27, 07:28 PM
Still have not been able to run it as I could not afford a new brushless motor (traded away my last one:confused:) but I will definetly be running it this friday. I used the Mini-z Comic racer body posts but I may rework the location of the body mounts. They are solid and the body is held on well but it just looks ugly. I have a reworked trishock mounting plate to run side springs connected directly to the pod so maybe I will work in a different location for the rear body posts. The fronts will most likely have to stay where they are as I do not really have anywhere else to put them. Also, for those of you who have run the reflex front end with the spring uderneath did you have problems with limmited travel? As it is right now the front of the chassis will not bottom out before the suspension, which is generaly a bad thing. It is pretty close but even still it bothers me. The suspension feels fine and seems to have enough droop and action it just bottoms out .15mm too soon. Anyhow I just thought I should throw up some pics and say that I will be running this on friday.

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/Mobile%20Uploads/20150527_190743_zps5xcqsdpd.jpg

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/Mobile%20Uploads/20150527_190110_zpsykwovf5c.jpg

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/Mobile%20Uploads/20150527_190102_zpsi5uxkcb4.jpg

lfisminiz
2015.05.27, 07:35 PM
Nice...keep us updated! ;)

DMALMAD
2015.05.27, 09:57 PM
Yup. I think I fixed my issue with not enough suspension travel. It was not actually not enough travel, just that my front end actually was sitting too low on the chassis. I had about 1.2mm of shims under the knuckle to get ride height where I wanted (~2.3mm) so I just took those shims out, put about .5mm above the knuckle and .7 on each of the 4 screw ounting points of the front end and viola, I had the same exact ride height but the chassis was bottoming out like it should. The reason I wanted the chassis to bottom out is so that in the turns the chassis cg gets as low as possible, if the suspension restricts the chassis from getting low enough my cg will be raised and the front end will wash out and push. I think aside from the pivot ball/trishock rear end, the ability to raise and lower rideheight in the front like the 12th scales do and to be able to swap out the entire front end with 4 screws is the best feature of this design. In the future (when the funds are there) I will put together a couplle of front ends so that If I feel like I need to change the front end I can swap the entire thing instead of wasting time taking out e-clips and switching springs. Right now I just modeled some ride hieght spacers and will be getting them in with my next shapeways order as putting shims under each of the 4 screw points of the front end was a real hassle.

DMALMAD
2015.05.30, 02:24 AM
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-G5bVn1DKexaWNzVks0YlJQR2s/view?usp=sharing

I had put off running the car long enough. So today I finallly ran it. And well I think the video will speak for itself but I will add a little bit of what is running through my head right now. For the last couple the weeks the car has been pretty much ready to go but I was afraid that all my work would be for not so I kind of just let the car sit there. But I am so relieved to say that this chassis foundation is rock solid. I took the car out after a really terrible performance during a points series race, not really expecting much, and the car handled great. A little bit of a push on power but I will attribute that to the esc that acted like an on and off switch. I was able to be very confidant and cut closer lines at tighter speeds because the rear end was locked in, and when I say locked I mean it. The car would feel glued at the rear until you come to the apex and then would rotate quickly but very contrlably. This was with zero tuning, so I have a bunch of different set up options to try and I think with this chassis the sky is the limit :):):):):):):D:D:D:D

edit- I have to say though that I ran the car after the race was over so the traction was pretty good but it was a fresh layout so the grip the chassis produced is a testament to its ability. Anyway tell me what you think, and yes the pause is caused by the esc and motor cogging. The HK esc did not really live up to expectations but with a different esc I think that the car has the potential to be unparralleled. I ran a lot more laps then the video showed and was able to get a little more consistent but I think that the last two laps of the video best capture the car, this video was of some of the first laps.

DMALMAD
2015.05.30, 03:09 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymvjCDnC4go

Put it up on youtube to try and edit the video quality a little bit.

As for the setup I was running the pn yellow side shock prings (hardest) along with the reflex low profile silver springs (I also ran some medium grease in the shocks and the kingpins). The ride height was around 2.2mm. One of the cool things with this car is the super low ridehieght I can run. With the x-power chassis the front end and the t-plate sit lower than the cf chassis so I have to run a taller ridehieght but with this I can run super low and not rub. The rubbing sound you heard in the video was the body because it was too low. I raised it up later and the car was handling even better. As for the electronics I was still running the atomic digital mg servo with the gogolap reciever and Hobby king esc and also used the pn v2 7500 kv motor. The HK esc was not able to perform startups at all and I will have to look into other esc. I may even drop a brushed system in it and see how that does.

Also doe anyone know how to create a blank setup sheet pdf? I want to make a setup sheet for this specific chassis but do not know what software or tools I would need.

Jshwaa
2015.05.31, 07:09 PM
I use primo pdf, totally free, and it basically adds itself to windows as a printer. You can make anything in any software you want, and save it as a .pdf file when you are done.

egonzalez
2015.06.01, 09:54 AM
I use primo pdf, totally free, and it basically adds itself to windows as a printer. You can make anything in any software you want, and save it as a .pdf file when you are done.

You can also create a Google Doc and save it as .pdf... File-->Download as PDF.. This is also free and you're already a Google Docs user. :)

DMALMAD
2015.06.01, 10:22 PM
I am going to be spending a full day tomorow testing to see what works and doesn't as far as setup and different front ends I can use. I just heard back from my source for the machining and it looks like I can make this avialable as a kit at a very affordable price. However to do so I Need at least 8 people who want one so if you are interested shoot me a pm or email at devin.malmad@gmail.com. THIS IS NOT A PREORDER, I just need to gauge the intrests in order so I can create a solid price and a specific quantity that I would need to get. Most likely I will offer just the chassis and shapeways parts along with a couple other pieces of hardware so as to leave the suspension and electronics up to the end user. I understand it is still early which is why I am asking for you guys to let me know if this is a viable product that you may want to get. Like I said I will continue to test it thoroughly and report my results and this Friday I will put it up against the best car avialable (MRX) in a very competitive point series environment. If you think this is not viable for a production run I would also like to hear your feedback and why. Thanks for following along :D

Jshwaa
2015.06.02, 08:09 AM
I am going to be spending a full day tomorow testing to see what works and doesn't as far as setup and different front ends I can use. I just heard back from my source for the machining and it looks like I can make this avialable as a kit at a very affordable price. However to do so I Need at least 8 people who want one so if you are interested shoot me a pm or email at devin.malmad@gmail.com. THIS IS NOT A PREORDER, I just need to gauge the intrests in order so I can create a solid price and a specific quantity that I would need to get. Most likely I will offer just the chassis and shapeways parts along with a couple other pieces of hardware so as to leave the suspension and electronics up to the end user. I understand it is still early which is why I am asking for you guys to let me know if this is a viable product that you may want to get. Like I said I will continue to test it thoroughly and report my results and this Friday I will put it up against the best car avialable (MRX) in a very competitive point series environment. If you think this is not viable for a production run I would also like to hear your feedback and why. Thanks for following along :D

Firstly, nice job on your mod. You showed some nice progression and followed through to completion.

Secondly, if an alternative to the MRX is what's in mind here, let's see full-on comparisons...height, weight, etc..., as well as an explanation/diagram of why your alternative is more feasible. I'm guessing that price will be your advantage, but if there is something technical here, flaunt it. In your testing, perhaps you could show how your damping system performs better on turns. If you could get some quality videos out there, like those levitezer videos, it should do well. Good luck.

DMALMAD
2015.06.02, 09:26 AM
Yes I will be providing a complete set of specifications but actually it shares the same wheelbase, is slightly narrower (most narrow 1/28th chassis avialable) and the rear pivot system is the most unique part. The Lajf p28 includes a pivot that is kind of similar but has too many mounting points. This is directly like a 1/12th scale and allows tweak adjustment and complete 360 degree control. The very limited amount of slop, direct and quick servo, the infinite amount of adjustments (more than any other chassis) and the abilit to use any electronics you wish is what I think makes the car stand out. From the preliminary test I can already tell that It will be faster than an mrx and my results friday will either confirm or deny that. Sadly a video like that of the levitezer is not possible but a comprehensive step by step build video is in the works when I recieve my production chassis. In that video I will also point out the differnces between the two chassis. I am working on a lot of things right now and with finals happening it is going to take time but expect a lot of things to come out.
Also I have a price point figured out, I am aiming for 115-130 with the chassis, the shapeways parts, and aluminum standoffs and specific shims neccesary and the screws. Reasonable or no? I have a little room to play with but lower than 115 I get close to losing money.

Jshwaa
2015.06.02, 11:57 AM
Yes I will be providing a complete set of specifications but actually it shares the same wheelbase, is slightly narrower (most narrow 1/28th chassis avialable) and the rear pivot system is the most unique part. The Lajf p28 includes a pivot that is kind of similar but has too many mounting points. This is directly like a 1/12th scale and allows tweak adjustment and complete 360 degree control. The very limited amount of slop, direct and quick servo, the infinite amount of adjustments (more than any other chassis) and the abilit to use any electronics you wish is what I think makes the car stand out. From the preliminary test I can already tell that It will be faster than an mrx and my results friday will either confirm or deny that. Sadly a video like that of the levitezer is not possible but a comprehensive step by step build video is in the works when I recieve my production chassis. In that video I will also point out the differnces between the two chassis. I am working on a lot of things right now and with finals happening it is going to take time but expect a lot of things to come out.
Also I have a price point figured out, I am aiming for 115-130 with the chassis, the shapeways parts, and aluminum standoffs and specific shims neccesary and the screws. Reasonable or no? I have a little room to play with but lower than 115 I get close to losing money.

It sounds like you have a lot thought out, including your business model, but about the testing...

This is your advertisement. You are answering the question, why your design and NOT the MRX. You are going to use a time analysis of your design vs. the MRX for this, awesome... When you do this, it would be more powerful to take YOU out of the equation and have it field tested by a non-partisan group of racers. Have them trial test your design and come report to the forum. If that goes well, mass producing/selling them is going to fall in your lap. Otherwise, there will always be room for doubt when you are comparing the two, and with the MRX's presence and fancy website you will be looking at just selling your design to your cousin or a good friend trying to be nice. Not to judge, though, if that's what you are going for, cheers either way. :)

DMALMAD
2015.06.02, 11:27 PM
I will be looking to have my chassis tested by others but I do not think my plans warrant the kind of tests you have in mind. I think that the environment I race in is known to be competitive so if it is able to perform in the most competitive environment why would it not be viable, even if it is just me testing.I Will be looking into having a single team driver and I already have one driver in Particular in mind that is the best i know of. This car is aimed for performance and I mainly aim to base my testing at my track because those are the racers I aiming this at. I do not have to be a successful RC company I am just a regular driver who thought he could improve on what was avialable and want to share what I have created with others. This Friday will be the true test (as will the following race nights) but I had a good practice session today and I think that my chassis can possibly be on par with the Mrx chassis and for its preliminary tests it has shown to continue improving. I look forward to hearing more feedback and am just happy that I made it this far, every thing else aside:)

And no I would never consider selling a chassis like this to anybody who is not as serious as me about racing. I understand you were joking but I take racing very seriously and this is a project not an attempt to get experience starting a buisness or to make money through pity. I designed the chassis with racer oriented buyers in mind. Also this was not a "mod" this was a complete redesign of many aspects and is an entirely different chassis that uses three items from Kysosho it was not an alteration to the mini-z but a stab at an innovative 1/28th chassis.

Jshwaa
2015.06.03, 09:40 AM
I will be looking to have my chassis tested by others but I do not think my plans warrant the kind of tests you have in mind. I think that the environment I race in is known to be competitive so if it is able to perform in the most competitive environment why would it not be viable, even if it is just me testing.I Will be looking into having a single team driver and I already have one driver in Particular in mind that is the best i know of. This car is aimed for performance and I mainly aim to base my testing at my track because those are the racers I aiming this at. I do not have to be a successful RC company I am just a regular driver who thought he could improve on what was avialable and want to share what I have created with others. This Friday will be the true test (as will the following race nights) but I had a good practice session today and I think that my chassis can possibly be on par with the Mrx chassis and for its preliminary tests it has shown to continue improving. I look forward to hearing more feedback and am just happy that I made it this far, every thing else aside:)

And no I would never consider selling a chassis like this to anybody who is not as serious as me about racing. I understand you were joking but I take racing very seriously and this is a project not an attempt to get experience starting a buisness or to make money through pity. I designed the chassis with racer oriented buyers in mind. Also this was not a "mod" this was a complete redesign of many aspects and is an entirely different chassis that uses three items from Kysosho it was not an alteration to the mini-z but a stab at an innovative 1/28th chassis.

sigh...

I will be looking to have my chassis tested by others but I do not think my plans warrant the kind of tests you have in mind.

You insinuate that I am suggesting your test specifications, and I am not. I am simply saying the testing should be impartial.

I think that the environment I race in is known to be competitive so if it is able to perform in the most competitive environment why would it not be viable, even if it is just me testing.

Because wouldn't it be more effective to have a 3rd party boasting about how great your design is, and not just you? Think about it...

This car is aimed for performance and I mainly aim to base my testing at my track because those are the racers I aiming this at.

That's great, but don't let your obsessive desire to be 'exclusive' drive you to be so ignorant to think that 'performance' is something that only pertains to your style of racing. How stupid...

I do not have to be a successful RC company I am just a regular driver who thought he could improve on what was avialable and want to share what I have created with others.

THAT'S AWESOME!!!! Who could have a problem with that?? I surely do not, so ease up a little.

And no I would never consider selling a chassis like this to anybody who is not as serious as me about racing. I understand you were joking but I take racing very seriously and this is a project not an attempt to get experience starting a buisness or to make money through pity. I designed the chassis with racer oriented buyers in mind. Also this was not a "mod" this was a complete redesign of many aspects and is an entirely different chassis that uses three items from Kysosho it was not an alteration to the mini-z but a stab at an innovative 1/28th chassis.

I don't know where this obsessive desire to differentiate >>your<< form of racing from the definition of racing itself. You play stupid semantics with the word 'racing', well what about the mini-z? If I wanted to be a little child about your contributions to the forum, I would be pounding at the point that you don't even race mini-z's. You constantly run about the discussions with your big hard on talking about how your complicated rig-ups are so revolutionary, in a mini-z forum. Why don't you go to a forum on Corvette's and tell them how awesome your Ford Mustang is?

I didn't make up the notion that you will be trying to sell your design. You stated so. Excuse me if I offered a couple points on what you are doing from an angle of 'helping'. Good day.

DMALMAD
2015.06.03, 04:00 PM
I appreciate your feedback but it is not neccesary for the plans I have in mind which I think I have made clear. If you have personal comments that you would like to make I have plenty of space in my pm box and would be willing to answer any and all of your questions. This chassis was designed for me, a racer (which means that I race on an on road, mini z sized specific track). You insulted me and then wonder why I respond by saying that your feedback is not wanted when you question my intent. I am recieving some intrest from parties that are real racers, and while I love tinkering what is the use of a chassis that you never race? I am not trying to alienate perspective buyers but any chassis like this whether x-power or atomic is not right for the regular basher who plays with. While mini-z comes down to having fun, you can have just as much fun with a bone stock mr-01 as any high end chassis if your are just kicking around in your living room, which is why it makes no sense for me to try and advertise this chassis to those who are not going to be able to get its full potential. And in the end it may not work at all so who cares anyway.:rolleyes:

DMALMAD
2015.06.03, 04:36 PM
Moving on... I played with the front end a lot on tuesday and got a lot of good data. I think that I have yet to find the right balance front to rear but individually they feel just right lol. Basically If I make my front how stiff i usually want to make it it makes only the rear work but I like the rear soft to get that great rear grip. I will work on increasing the rear stiffness and playing with droop some more as I think that I am about 85% there as to the way I think it can drive. Anyway take a look at my front end now and excuse the makeshift plastic c-clips as I lost all two of the stock ones:confused:

As a sidenote I think that the white plastic is going to be the go to as the dye in the black plastic really makes the suspension bind and when I polished it out the balls kept popping out. The lpf front was great but the combination of rubbing and limited ride height/ droop settings meant that for carpet I am going to have to stick with the spring over. Too bad it was really smooth. :(

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/Mobile%20Uploads/20150603_162636_zpspgbbf0kx.jpg

Number1
2015.06.03, 06:18 PM
Just curious, how good/fast is this car now?
Are you doing 8.0 yet? or 7.9? or even 7.8? and how fast was your mrx?
I want to know if I need to worry.:D

DMALMAD
2015.06.03, 06:28 PM
Not that fast yet. Early on when the tires were good my setup was way off but then I made some changes and the car started to feel really good but then the tires went. I would have had lap times but I did not have a working transponder wire with me.:rolleyes:

MRX is probably at a 8.1 it is still slow

DMALMAD
2015.06.06, 12:07 AM
First race in the books and I am pretty happy with the car but not with myself. I was able to pull off an 7.8 hotlap and the hotlap of the main was a 7.7 so I am right there. The car qualified 4th on the grid but in the 3rd qualifier I misjuudged my tires so I think that I could have qualified as high as 2nd had I had my tires right for the 3rd qualififer. When it came time for the main my pinion striped so it only did a 8.2 hotlap and I was in 4th place when I had to pull off. I was battling for 3rd for a while but the car was not right during the main (pinion was semi-stripped the whole race). Anyways I will post the video tomorrow when it is avialable. Overall the car was able to do consistent laps so I am pretty happy. I still have more work to do but for the first race night it did well.

DMALMAD
2015.06.06, 09:08 PM
Got a lot more laps in today and was really able to dial in the car. No lap counter so I do not know exactly how fast but the car felt much easier to drive and overall faster. I took some videos of today and the best one I got is this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Lbc1JFw-6U&feature=youtu.be
In this video the car has a slight push to the left that you will notice and lacked a little corner speed. During my last run I finally got my camber gain settings right and was able to get some even tighter laps. Here is the race night video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4_IrkPE3uk but you will notice the pinion and the bad handling. I think that the pinion gear caused some of the pushing I was facing and I also had a lot of right oversteer that was causing some lift so to avoid that I had to go wide and take off some travel, hence the pushing. But I think that now the car is on par with the MRX so if I can get the car equal to the MRX within the first two weeks when I have been running the MRX for over 8-11months I cannot wait to see what I can do:)

arch2b
2015.06.06, 09:37 PM
nice video, great race calling/announcing :p

DMALMAD
2015.06.06, 09:39 PM
Thanks. The main did not turn out like I had hoped but I have high hopes for next week:cool:

DMALMAD
2015.06.06, 09:46 PM
Also I got the car wieghed today and it checks in at 145g, so yeah, it is about the lightest 1/28th scale car right now :cool:;):p
And with 94mm wheel base and a lot of power there is no hint of traction roll, a lot of rotation, and great on power steering; and all with a rear end that is pretty much locked in (according to third party that has driven the car the car has tons of steering and no hint of the rear end giving).

lfisminiz
2015.06.06, 10:37 PM
Always my first choice...having the rear max grip and go from there....

DMALMAD
2015.06.07, 04:00 PM
Tore it down to the last screw and washer today to do a full rebuild and took some photos. I have some comparison shots of it with the MRX and just wanted to point out that although I have the esc on top of the servo at the moment it is still lower than where the esc is in the mrx. The CG is super low on this chassis compared to the MRX because everything is mounted to the bottom of the chassis and since it does not have any heavy aluminum up top like the servo and top covers on the MRX. Anyway enjoy:
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/20150607_153026_zpsktxafchp.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/20150607_153016_zpsmsfswgm7.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/20150607_153008_zpsdz02gkkw.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/20150607_152835_zpsl2cxblku.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/20150607_130956_zpsv0zt5adf.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/20150607_130944_zpskqnesdug.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/20150607_130944_zpskqnesdug.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/20150607_130907_zpsqqcels2r.jpg

DMALMAD
2015.06.08, 01:30 PM
At this point if three more people say they want one I can go ahead and order the chassis plates today and have everything ready to ship within three weeks so if you want one now is the time:D The plan is to open up a preorder and as soon as everyone pays I will order everything that I need. Or I can also set it up so that you can order just the chassis and get the stuff from shapeways yourself that way you can have it in less than two weeks. I am still working on setting up the website and designing a logo but those two things go hand in hand and should be done within the next few days. As a promotional I am offering to fully assemble anyones chassis (including wiring the stock mini-z board to the servo) for free as long as you order one of the first chassis and supply the components. I will have the full parts list up tonight with prices and links and hope to hear back from you guys. Anyway email me at devin.malmad@gmail.com or PM right on the forum and I will get back to you as soon as possible. If you have any questions feel free to ask... there is no such thing as a stupid question:D

Edit: Parts list is ready, I will continually update as new configurations are brought to my attention or are tested and proven
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-8hpl2w-WC8cZlbzSG_v_luoCdL7GpKjzJmVi3DNgc8/edit?usp=sharing

Also I am signed up for shapeways aluminum pilot so if you want everything or some pieces in aluminum shoot me an email and I can get a price figured out for that.

DMALMAD
2015.06.08, 10:07 PM
Just wanted to mention that the production chassis will do 94-100mm wheelbase in 2mm increments and has the battery 7.5mm farther back then it is now so there will be enough room to mount an x-power esc on the right side of the chassis but I would honestly recomend either the atomic esc (the stock one desoldered) or the mini-z board for price and weight reasons. Also when you consider the price of the car fully built it comes in at around 400$ (of course many of the parts are parts that racers already have laying around so it is possibly much less) so when you consider the fully built x-power car that costs 680$ there is a signfigant price difference along with added functionality of ability to detweak the car, the first true pivot rear suspension, and the openess of electronics, all with the added bonus of dealing with a true racer who understands the needs of others racers you can't really go wrong. I know it sounds kinda cheesy but this car has potential and I would really like to share it with everyone. I am going to go to Railyard's last race on the 21st and will hopefully bring the production model with me for open test drives and I hope to be able to prove the chassis in person. Another benefit to this chassis is that because I am using shapeways for the majority of the parts if there is a running change I can just upload the models to shapeways and you guys can get it direct from the source, no re-releasing update chassis and making people re-buy expensive updates and running improvements.

I am also looking for a team sponsored driver. I am giving away a chassis locally to the winner of the MHS point series but I am also looking to sponsor another driver that races at a different track to spread the word. If you are interested or know of a qualified driver shoot me a pm or email:D

doug01n
2015.06.09, 08:01 AM
Is it compatible only with lexan Bodyes? Or is that any preview for ASC?

DMALMAD
2015.06.09, 08:26 AM
You can cut holes in the autoscales if you want but most likely this chassis will be outlawed in every class except pan car which is why I did not add the asc mounts.

If ASC mounts are something that people want I will look into it but I really do not see the need for them.

DMALMAD
2015.06.09, 07:01 PM
Hey Guy's I am at the point where I am about to open a preorder, I have enough people who have reserved a chassis I just have to connect the paypal merchant services to the website. Anyways I just wanted to let you guys know that as of right now there are still a couple chassis unacounted for so if you are interested let me know. Also as I will be updating and creating instructions, build guides, and pro tips I will move everything into one folder which can be viewed by you guys here:https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B-G5bVn1DKexakQwTG82MzJtdVk&usp=sharing.
As of right now there is just some pics and the parts list but I am going to uploading stuff periodicly whithin the next couple of weeks so stay tuned:D Hopefully within the month I can start working on production round 2! It all depends on the demand for the chassis but once a couple guys get their DMR MPC's and start winning A-mains I think that it will be hard to resist lol:p In all seriousness expect some more updates and another round of chassis so if you are on the fence and want to wait and see how everything plays out there will be more chassis to come after the first batch.

DMALMAD
2015.06.10, 12:57 AM
https://docs.google.com/document/d/10xLrdx0g_ydpTu042s4vgRVYYIXhOQQcAs0k7u6hhlA/edit

JesseT
2015.06.10, 01:29 AM
It might be an alternative to just use MR02 double-A-arm knuckles and thread the existing pins as done in LAJF P28.

http://lajf.se/files/2010/04/DSC8403.jpg

DMALMAD
2015.06.10, 12:17 PM
Yes I did the instructions for someone who wanted to use only MR-03 dbl a-arm parts. I have another mount for this chassis so the 02 double a-arm is plug and play:D

DMALMAD
2015.06.11, 12:52 AM
demracing.net

For those of you who will be picking up at Maj's Hobby Shop just put down local pickup so you don't have to pay the extra 6$. I have contacted those of you who have said you wanted one so please order through the site asap so that I can get these chassis quickly. For those of you who are interested but have not asked for me one there will be 4 chassis sets remaining after the preorder so don't worry you haven't mised out yet :p I will continue to update the site when I get stock in for spares and other hardware neccesary for the build but for those of you who have preordered please refer to the parts list on the website (can also be found floating around in this thread). Just a reminder guys when everyone has paid for their preorder it will take about 2-3 weeks for me to get everything, check everything, and then ship them out so the sooner you order the sooner you get the chassis :)

DMALMAD
2015.06.11, 01:23 PM
Hey just a quick update, the production chassis will be comming with balance holes down the center of the chassis and the rear pod independantly. This means that you can balance the chassis and pod seperatly to fine tune your weight distribution :cool: Speaking of weight distribution the plug side of the battery is lighter than the opposite end so if without the battery one side is heavier than the other, flip the battery around and maybe the balance might work out near perfect. (It worked for me:p)


Also check out the logo down below :cool:
Notice the shape of the "M" I still have to work on getting the "R" to match up but it looks really good as it is rigt now. Anyways tell me what you guys think!

DMALMAD
2015.06.11, 08:39 PM
Now I can officially say that the DMR MPC is compatible with all front ends avialable for the MR-03:D For those of you who were on the border due to versatility I have just the thing:p I now have a front end mount that will accept the MR-03 double a-arm. You still either need to drill the knuckles or use 02 a-arm knuckles but I think that this is easier and cheaper than buying the other conversion piece. Take a look!

Edit:
For replacements or spare 3d printed parts go to: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/DMALMADracing

DMALMAD
2015.06.12, 05:56 PM
Found a much more affordable servo on HobbyKing. I have updated the parts list here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-8hpl2w-WC8cZlbzSG_v_luoCdL7GpKjzJmVi3DNgc8/edit

This servo is the corona cs929 mg, it is analog but the speed and torque are good and it has metal gears and I can confirm that it will fit and have the right servo horn. Here is a picture of it:

http://cdn.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/catalog/10345(1).jpg

DMALMAD
2015.06.13, 12:35 AM
JUST WANTED TO GIVE A BIG SHOUT OUT AND THANK YOU TO THOSE OF YOU WHO PREORDERED :D Everything is ordered and on its way to me so within 2-3 weeks I hope to see some DMR MPC's out on Track and winning Amains :p But in all actuality I am so very gracious to have been able to make these chassis and am extremely thankful to the generous racers who made this possible, I am sincerely and eternally grateful. Thank you guys so much :):):):)

Also I am working on written instructions along with a build video so expect that before the chassis get sent out!

lfisminiz
2015.06.13, 09:19 PM
JUST WANTED TO GIVE A BIG SHOUT OUT AND THANK YOU TO THOSE OF YOU WHO PREORDERED :D Everything is ordered and on its way to me so within 2-3 weeks I hope to see some DMR MPC's out on Track and winning Amains :p But in all actuality I am so very gracious to have been able to make these chassis and am extremely thankful to the generous racers who made this possible, I am sincerely and eternally grateful. Thank you guys so much :):):):)

Also I am working on written instructions along with a build video so expect that before the chassis get sent out!

Congrats!! :)

SaiTam
2015.06.15, 09:56 AM
Hi D,

Very impressive. Congratulations! Any videos?

DMALMAD
2015.06.15, 11:23 AM
Here os a video of practice a few weeks ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Lbc...ature=youtu.be

I ran it in the regular race that same week but had a couple issues. This week no racing just practice on friday and it was much better. Had the hotlap of the day for the majority of the day but when traction finally came up my tires were no good. Rigth now it had a 7.72 hotlap to rolands 7.59 but I mean that was roland and the traction had come up :rolleyes:

gctkaz
2015.06.20, 09:41 PM
Found a much more affordable servo on HobbyKing. I have updated the parts list here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-8hpl2w-WC8cZlbzSG_v_luoCdL7GpKjzJmVi3DNgc8/edit

This servo is the corona cs929 mg, it is analog but the speed and torque are good and it has metal gears and I can confirm that it will fit and have the right servo horn. Here is a picture of it:

http://cdn.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/catalog/10345(1).jpg
I am a big fan of those Corona micro servos and have several from the 919/929/939 lineup just lying around waiting for the right project. There are digital versions available, the analog version have the prefix CS- and the digital ones are prefixed with DS-. The CS-929MG is not the only one at HobbyKing, but they are a bit inconsistently catalogued so you may need to search for some different terms or keep an eye out for the particular model number.

I am currently using the CS-929MG in a 1/18 truck and it rocks, and I have previously used the (very fast) DS-919MG in a 1/24 truck. For around $7 each they are great little servos.

DMALMAD
2015.06.21, 08:19 AM
Yup I found those 919's too. I did a small order of different servos and lipo batteries to test in my car. Really you can't beat hobbykings pricing :D

DMALMAD
2015.06.26, 11:41 AM
Just an update guys, the Chassis are cut and are expected to be delivered tomorrow (saturday) but the shapeways stuff has been delayed so that stuff might not get to me until the latter half of next week. But I will be making a trip to the post office as soon as I get everything in ;)

DMALMAD
2015.07.02, 12:50 PM
Everything is shipped and due to deliver to you guys who pre-ordered on monday :D Wish I could have gotten everything in a little sooner so that I could have shipped yesterday so that you guys could get it friday. Thanks for being so patient guys I hope you enjoy the chassis :)

DMALMAD
2015.07.03, 10:34 AM
INSTRUCTION VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVvwQsqzvks

Maybe in the future when I can get my hands on a decent video camera I will do a little more in depth video of putting everything together but without a tripod it was hard trying to record and build and the video would have been over an hour long :rolleyes: The pictures do a good job and I think that I covered everything in the voice over so I hope you guys builds go smoothly! :D:D:):):D:cool:

DMALMAD
2015.07.05, 02:51 PM
Important Front end build tips: https://youtu.be/Hut6BAP2r80

DMALMAD
2015.07.05, 11:42 PM
Also Guys I forgot to mention that in the rear pivot I am running a reflex racing pivot ball which is a little oversized so if you plan on running a standard metal pivot ball in the rear pivot then you should apply the front end bag method on the rear pivot area as well. Just make sure you are extra careful to remove the extra plastic and also use some sort of thin grease or oil to make sure the movement is extra free. Also for the rear pivot if you go with the bag technique then I would also advise using a thinner plastic like from a shop rite plastic bag (except use a white or black shopping bag as the yellow will look out of place ;) )

DMALMAD
2015.07.07, 10:10 AM
Important Rear End Build Tips: https://youtu.be/WX_1ZMBLVbE

DMALMAD
2015.07.07, 12:34 PM
So I have been thinkig a lot lately about tires and why people seem to dislike foam or prefer one racing surface or tire over the other so I wanted to start up a conversation about it. I have a lot of experience with many different foam tires and am pretty well versed on rubber tires as I have raced rubber on carpet and rcp. Anyways I have started a google doc where I will be compiling all the info I can find and if anybody has some info that they would like to share I can give you editing abilities. I don't know why there is not a seperate subforum for tires as that is the most important aspect of racing but the doc is going to serve the purpose of being almost like a comparison / knowledge source and I would like to start a conversation about the topic of tires in another part of the forum. Anyway let me know what you guys think and check back here :https://docs.google.com/document/d/1mH9_pg2r_Y9aNd8bKBYx14KAK7Z8VaBcZ-oJ3aarccU/edit?usp=sharing
As I will be updating as I go along.

DMALMAD
2015.07.07, 11:50 PM
IMPORTANT SETUP STARTING POINTS AND GENERAL INFO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzSX_1zw06M

DMALMAD
2015.07.08, 02:26 PM
Hey guys, just throwing this out there, I am thinking about selling prebuilt chassis. A couple of guys have mentioned to me that the build seems complex and they don't like sourcing parts or ordering from overseas. So what I was thinking was offering to sell the chassis pre-made but custom built. So basically you would indicate which electronics, components, and suspension you would like and I would order everything and build it for you. However this would have to be strictly pre-order and have at least 1 month maybe even 6 week wait time before it would ship as everything would have to be ordered and built custom. Anyways let me know if anyone is interested. As for price I am thinking about 500-600 depending on components, maybe less but I would have to see.

Also anouncing #1 DMR Team Driver is Roland for winning Majs hobby shop 50t spec point series
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0403_zpspzzwrtd3.jpg

DMALMAD
2015.07.17, 04:21 PM
I have been playing with my new light box and just thought I would share a more up to date chassis picture
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0431_zpse2eebuvv.jpg

DMALMAD
2015.07.19, 07:54 PM
Another quick update that really brought the car to life :D
https://youtu.be/Gj7RXvyW9sw

DMALMAD
2015.08.02, 02:52 PM
Been a while, here is just an update of the cars performance(keep and eye on the green car): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mivpd__aA0o
got 2nd place, had a rocky start but the car was super easy to drive and it was closer to the orange car (the winner) than I had expected. I think I got the cars handling mostly sorted out I just think that I need to work on the electronics as I had to bump from the B since the reciever I was using had a bad glitching problem and I did not finish a qualifier. Also the esc I am using tends to have a smaller powerband so for a brushed motor the car is a little hard to control. I may end up adding another 10g to the car to be able to run more steering but I am still on the fence about that.

cowboysir
2015.08.02, 04:17 PM
I find your comment about the speed control interesting. ...I always found the Novak Spy esc had a better throttle range than a mini z board.

Aren't there weight minimums in aftermarket class and does 10g keep you within weight limit?

DMALMAD
2015.08.02, 04:46 PM
The car weighs 145 ish rtr so 10g of weight still puts me around 5g lighter than the MRX so I am still good in the light weight department. I think this issue with the powerband is that I am running a highpoint on the radio much lower than the actual high point of the esc so the powerband is limited. I also like the throttle curve of the kyosho board a little more.

DMALMAD
2015.08.07, 12:15 PM
Did somebody say sensored brushless 2wd???? Had to be pretty generous with the dremel but it fits in well and should give me yet another edge with this chassis. I can't confirm this but to the best of my knowledge this is the first 1/27th 2wd car with a sensored system in it :cool: Anyway enjoy the pics.

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0468_zpsrc0ouvvy.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0469_zpslfvazinr.jpg

DMALMAD
2015.08.10, 01:50 PM
Ended up running the sensorless 7500kv motor anyways. The sensored motor is smooth but the extra strength of the magnets and extra power due to its size makes it impractical for the 1/27th 2wd. The magnets are so strong that it provides more drag brake then the brushed which makes the rear wheels actually lock up causing the car to either come to a complete stop or to spin unless I am constantly on the throttle. With the sensorless the car was faster than the brushed in my opinion but at the moment I am looking for a lighter esc.

DMALMAD
2015.08.17, 08:46 PM
Some updated photos :D
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/DMR%20MPC%20Stock%20Photos/IMG_0472_zpstlj6wp5c.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/DMR%20MPC%20Stock%20Photos/IMG_0480_zpsbmows3b9.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/DMR%20MPC%20Stock%20Photos/IMG_0478_zpsovschc2a.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/DMR%20MPC%20Stock%20Photos/IMG_0474_zpsghg1bssy.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/DMR%20MPC%20Stock%20Photos/IMG_0472_zpstlj6wp5c.jpg

DMALMAD
2015.08.19, 09:28 AM
Working on putting together a NIMH prototype. Probably won't go any further than just making one for myself so that I can take it and compete at other tracks beside my local track just to show the proof of Concept of my design. Anyways if you feel like this could be something worthwhile to you send me a pm or email me.

DMALMAD
2015.08.29, 04:44 PM
Had a great race in terms of making strides with the car. Car was dialed I just choked. Picked up a third place finish but the transponder was only couting intermintantly. qualified 5th (had some trouble in qualifying with transponder counting and a couple of incidents) would have been close for qualifying 3rd. At the start of the race made it to the front but the car did not really seem to come in until the latter half of the race. Car has same pace as the leaders just have to work on the driver errors and getting the setup (mainly tires) to work from the outset of the race. Here is the video (green car transponder stops counting): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQCDLH4aTLk

Setup:
Front:
X-power upper mount with ~1.5 camber
1 degree toe out
Reflex racing low profile front suspension reverse kingpin (spring Under)
- silver spring
- .6mm under knuckle (atomic F.S. knuckle)
- .4mm above knuckle
- PN15 slicks trued to 22.0mm sidewalls glued
-2mm RH

Rear:
side shock dampning: 10K grease (probable needs 15 but I don't have any)
- green side springs (long type)
- center shock (pn) purple center spring with a-arm bronze rebound (stick with stiff rebound springs)
- PN 6 (car generates more rear grip because of how far forward the pivot ball is hence the use of 6 and not 5) Car seems to work well on the 6's even after the tread is nearly gone.
-2mm RH

Running the novak spy esc decased on top of the servo and a 50t bb pn motor, diff is pretty loose.

DMALMAD
2015.08.29, 05:19 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nizFaP4bAis&feature=youtu.be

Put some fresh tires on after the race and the car was even better. Fought flipping the whole night ( as did most everybody else) but I think I found the culprit. My center shock was pretty angled so I have made it level and also taken out some caster as I was running something more than 4. hopefully this will eliminate that and I can run without the CA on the edge.

DMALMAD
2015.08.31, 10:05 PM
Finaly cleaned up the wiring situation to relocate the transponder: http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/IMG_0503_zpsvtyn7ddv.jpg

DMALMAD
2015.09.29, 07:13 PM
Update: (RCP)

Been working a lot with the car and have made some headway on the setup:

Front:
- A-Arm with teal or yellow V3 springs
- 2mm rideheight (any less and the car will bottom out due to soft springs)
- .5mm droop
- least caster (with my mounting it is 2 deg caster)
- Most camber
- PN 15 slick trued to 22.00 with glued sidewall (if using X sometimes you can get away without glue depending on the batch and setup)

Rear:
- 2mm RH
- PN Blue centershock springs on the side shocks
- PN Purple center shock spring on center shock
- 10K lube all around (thicker would be better but I do not have anything thicker)
- If you run orange on the side springs with extra grease you can run no sidewall glue without flipping (I will be testing this more next time I am at the track as it should be faster this way).
- PN 6 radials ONLY
- Do not use 5 as they push, cause flipping, and wear out too soon. 6's last till the tread is gone and if you groove them a little longer but still not nearly as long as foam :(
- .2mm anti dive (.2mm more on the sidelink location on the main chassis)
- helps with flipping, opposite gives more steering
Wheelbase: 98

Body: well at least on RCP ASC bodies are much faster and forgiving, next raceday I will be testing with a McLaren MP4-12c GT3 ASC. Was thinking about making some ASC mounts but decided against it since the new PN chassis requires holes drilled in the McLaren so there is no need for them if people are going to drill holes for that nimh frankenstien 02 :p.

Also found some really lightweight and low down 2s batteries on ebay. 500mah and their dimensions are 43x24x13 so they would lower the cg in the rear by 6mm. I have ordered some but they are on the slow boat from china so it should be a while before I get those in.

Also I have been asked about providing an rtr chassis minus reciever and radio and am working on a couple different options but so far it look like for brushless with the std 03 front end with a lexan body, and the HW bl esc it would be 450$. Using Atomic BL esc would be 480$ and so too would be a brushed option (only viable esc that I could buy new is the tekin b1r). After that the A-Arm style would of course be more and if you are on a budget I could probably throw a chassis together at around 400$ or a little less using cheapy hobbyking electronics but I would prefer not to because using lower quality electronics kinda defeats the purpose of the chassis. If you are interested in this send me a PM and we can work something out. FYI because there is a lot of time and skill that goes into assembling a complete chassis the wait time after payment is recieved would probably be closer to 5 weeks.

+ I have designed a protoype front suspension that should be here by mid-october that could potentially drop that price by about 20-30 dollars and keep the same adjustability, plus the option to run in wide or narrow or anything in between.

DMALMAD
2015.10.18, 07:21 PM
http://rs1359.pbsrc.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps6w6axqpa.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip

Worked with the 458 body but eventually went back to the lexan as i am just more comfortable with the lexan characteristics. I also found a setup that really worked. I played with the front roll center and ended up with .4mm under the upper tower bar for the a arm front suspension. I also played with the rear roll center/anti-dive. I put .6mm of shims under the forward mounting point of the the rear sidelinks. This really settled the car and I was able to keep up with the mrx chassis.

For the front I use the new ks firm with the sidewalls glued and trued to 22.0mm. I glue my tires straight onto the rims so I have extra grip and have to glue the sidewall too but when I just use tape i don't have to glue the sidewall. I used the teal v3 springs in the front on the a arm with 2nd most camber and least amount of caster. I also have about 1 degree of toe out. At the rear I use the new ks ss tires with on yellow sidesprings [short ones] and a white center spring with a bronze a arm spring for the rebound.

I was using a 50t motor which works well but i think that I was just to underpowered on exit because of the week magnets. I had good and bad luck in the most recent race, I qualified 3rd and was very close to 2nd but in the main I had trouble early, fought back with some luck up to 2nd but in the end chocked and made multiple mistakes in the last min and ended up 4th. In the main the car pushed bad because of some setup changes I took a chance on. overall a really good race and I think I can start challenging for the win against the mrx platforms right now I think my motor selection and my radio situation are holding me back a bit but I have some proto front end parts to try with reactive caster and a new light weight battery to try that should significantly lower my cg. I will post back with thr next results. Anyways here is the video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dgGfJn60LvI

DMALMAD
2015.12.28, 04:36 PM
So it has been a while, but I have made some positive progress on the electronics side of things. I had kinda pushed off testing the new chassis the last month or more because I was struggling on the RCP with both this chassis and the MRX but Recently I have found a winning combo with my MRX and it was so good I had won 4 of my last 5 races. Anyways I thought now would be a good time to evaluate what needs work and I decided the major issue was the electronics. So I set out to work to get an asf board to work as it is decidely better than anything else (the brushed that is). So within 1 hour with the volt meter and some careful soldering I got it all hooked up and so here is a quick video of it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqBqz7qHaO4

Later I will put it in the car and get some testing done, hopefully this will solve a lot of the issues I had with glitching and CG.

If anyone is intersted I will try and do a tutorial for the whole proccess but unless there is a want I think that it is self explanantory.

byebye
2015.12.28, 06:26 PM
So it has been a while, but I have made some positive progress on the electronics side of things. I had kinda pushed off testing the new chassis the last month or more because I was struggling on the RCP with both this chassis and the MRX but Recently I have found a winning combo with my MRX and it was so good I had won 4 of my last 5 races. Anyways I thought now would be a good time to evaluate what needs work and I decided the major issue was the electronics. So I set out to work to get an asf board to work as it is decidely better than anything else (the brushed that is). So within 1 hour with the volt meter and some careful soldering I got it all hooked up and so here is a quick video of it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqBqz7qHaO4

Later I will put it in the car and get some testing done, hopefully this will solve a lot of the issues I had with glitching and CG.

If anyone is intersted I will try and do a tutorial for the whole proccess but unless there is a want I think that it is self explanantory.

Did you gut a servo and use the mini-z servo motor and pot?

DMALMAD
2015.12.28, 08:56 PM
Did you gut a servo and use the mini-z servo motor and pot?

Nope just took the servo controller board out of the servo and wired the servo's motor and potentiometer up to the kyosho board.

DMALMAD
2015.12.28, 09:24 PM
Installed:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0Qljv3DrlA

arch2b
2015.12.28, 09:41 PM
the response and recentering time look fantastic compared to some of the alternatives i've driven. the biggest thing holding me back from getting into the this class has always been never being able to match Kyosho board steering characteristics. some are quick but don't recenter well or feel like they wander. others recenter but slowly and or lack the steering speed. it looks like you've solved that problem :p

DMALMAD
2015.12.28, 09:57 PM
the response and recentering time look fantastic compared to some of the alternatives i've driven. the biggest thing holding me back from getting into the this class has always been never being able to match Kyosho board steering characteristics. some are quick but don't recenter well or feel like they wander. others recenter but slowly and or lack the steering speed. it looks like you've solved that problem :p

Thanks, yeah it seems kyosho really got it right with their asf boards.

byebye
2015.12.30, 02:39 PM
What servo? Sorry TLDR :-)

byebye
2015.12.30, 02:39 PM
corona cs929 mg?

http://www hobbyking com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=70228

DMALMAD
2015.12.30, 09:23 PM
919 its faster but only like 2 bucks more i think

byebye
2015.12.30, 10:45 PM
919 its faster but only like 2 bucks more i think

I found it. I tried this recently and stripped a few servos. I'm thinking now it was a the lipo to the board that caused the steering to have hulk power. I put the board back in the z chassis it came out of and now the steering doesn't work at all.

I guess the main reason I want to make this work is to use the asf board in my AMZ chassis. Right now I'm using the gogolap which is working quite well. I really like the speed and response you have in the video. I'd like that for the AMZ.

Thanks for sharing.

Kris

DMALMAD
2016.01.06, 05:27 AM
I found it. I tried this recently and stripped a few servos. I'm thinking now it was a the lipo to the board that caused the steering to have hulk power. I put the board back in the z chassis it came out of and now the steering doesn't work at all.

I guess the main reason I want to make this work is to use the asf board in my AMZ chassis. Right now I'm using the gogolap which is working quite well. I really like the speed and response you have in the video. I'd like that for the AMZ.

Thanks for sharing.

Kris

I just tried putting my board back together in an old chassis and the steering still works so I am having trouble understanding what your issue is. I have found that this did not work well with the atomic servos but if you did it with the corona then there shouldn't be any problems unless you damaged the board when soldering. Sorry I am a little confused.

I will say this though that gogolap is complete garbage, I always had glitching with it and it would sometimes turn off randomly, and it wasn't only me experiencing this, at my track multiple people had issues with gogolap and other variants of asf receivers.

byebye
2016.01.06, 07:10 AM
I just tried putting my board back together in an old chassis and the steering still works so I am having trouble understanding what your issue is. I have found that this did not work well with the atomic servos but if you did it with the corona then there shouldn't be any problems unless you damaged the board when soldering. Sorry I am a little confused.

I will say this though that gogolap is complete garbage, I always had glitching with it and it would sometimes turn off randomly, and it wasn't only me experiencing this, at my track multiple people had issues with gogolap and other variants of asf receivers.

The board went bad. I think it was the 7 volts from the lipo.

Honestly the gogolap has been flawless for me. Haven't had any complaints from the gogolap here in our area. Sis have an issue with the servos in the un-assembled kits.

DMALMAD
2016.01.06, 02:20 PM
It would only go bad if you reversed the polarity of the battery when you connected it to the board (soldered it in reverse) the lipo would not blow the board if it was a kyosho asf, if it was a pn board then yeah the lipo would blow it.

byebye
2016.01.06, 05:32 PM
It would only go bad if you reversed the polarity of the battery when you connected it to the board (soldered it in reverse) the lipo would not blow the board if it was a kyosho asf, if it was a pn board then yeah the lipo would blow it.

No that's not the case. It's hard to explain but I've swapped it to another chassis and same results. It's gone to the esc graveyard. :D

I'm still going to order that servo and give it another go. Thanks for sharing your info so far.

Kris

DMALMAD
2016.05.07, 11:23 PM
So it has been a minute since the last update... but with school coming to a close for me I have been putting some more thought into getting the car faster. I had switched back to the MRX for a while and recently comparing the two under the same conditions I was a two tenths faster with the mrx than my car but most of this was due to the steering being a little eradict at times. I have found the main issue to come from the tweak in my old 02 aarm and also I found some binding in the steering. So to remedy this I ordered the new PN A-Arm along with the new Atomic BZ car which has that floating steering system. After doing a few measurements it looks like that system should be practically drop and play with the addition of drilling a couple of holes in the chassis. This coupled with the new lcg batteries I got in should more than make up the consitentcy and speed gap so stay tuned i guess...:p

Anyways, no pictures now but expect in a week or two some more information about how it turns out with the steering system in place. I also plan on using the atomic esc in it too so that should be fun to review but to the best of my knowledge the atomic esc is the best brushless esc available right now unless X-Power ever gets around to releasing the 2wd sensored system they have been posting pictures of on their social media page.

Also a disclamer, I know most of this stuff that I am talking about is old news but I am just getting back into the swing of things so its pretty new for me lol:p
*edit*
Page 6 instruction 7 is what I am talking about: http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/egr_manual/BZ-v1.pdf

DMALMAD
2016.05.19, 01:00 AM
So as I mentioned I have been working on some new stuff centered around a new battery that I have found. Well I am happy to say that it looks like I have successfully been able to lower everything by roughly 5mm. Hard to tell from the pictures but it is quite a significant reduction to the center of gravity. It also makes the car lighter and keeps the weight closer to the center... which are all good things. The other, more important improvement came at the cost of 7$. In the pictures if you notice the steering system is the same except for the balls that connect the tierods to the knuckles. Basically instead of having the tierod ends have the pivot ball with the hole in them so that they can slip through the knuckle, I have used the pivot ball that screws onto the knuckle from the bottom. Hard to explain but it is really simple to see in the picture. Also to do this you need to get the AMR Pivot ball Set. I was hesitant to do this a while ago because it was 7 bucks for a set in which I only need two tiny pieces. But I bit the bullet and got it and it has made a big difference in how smooth the steering is and it has also given me more steering angle and allowed me to get the right amount of ackerman. To do this like I said you simply need the pivot ball set and a 1.5mm tap and die to create threads on the knuckle. I think that this will account for the most signfigant improvement in performance but we will see. I will be testing everything later this week and will let you guys know how it goes.

Also, I test fitted the BZ floating steering system but it added too much weight and had to much slop/play and lastly it gave only a fraction of the steering throw so there wouldn't be a way to get enough steering no matter what compound tire I was running or how much camber I had.:p

I hope to test this with the brushless as that is the direction I see things going but until I see a brushless car actually be relevant I will be sticking with the current light weight brushed electronics package in there now.

For the batteries I am using simply paste this into the search bar in ebay:

100% Original 1 Pair JJRC H8C-10 7.4V 500mAh Li-po Battery for RC Quadcopter US

Pictures Finally:
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/20160518_234653_zpsqsw3kdhk.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/20160518_234705_zps0mazryhb.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/20160518_234918_zpsyag3imwf.jpg

DMALMAD
2016.05.28, 01:29 AM
First test with the improvements in the books, car was already faster than my A-main winning MRX :eek: I did an 8.3 best lap during my winning drive and after the race I pulled out my car and the first and only battery pack I did an 8.2 and many 8.3. I think that there is still room for improvement, mostly in fine tuning the spring rates, and the fact that I was still using the tweaked front end which hampered it a lot. Overall I was pretty happy and if the new front end comes into the shop next week I will race that during the regular race day. For those of you who already have cars I am still touching up the rear end parts and fine tuning that stuff but I think the biggest difference is the battery and the front end to be honest. So I would recommend getting the new PN A-Arm upper mount (no need to buy the whole front end if you already have an a-arm) and the ball end kit from atomic and the new batteries. Just a heads up you may have to drill two new holes for the shock mount to fit the battery but it should fit.