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stefano225
2015.02.24, 06:41 AM
Last week I decided to bid on a new asf mr03 BCS McLaren F1 GTR J with upgraded motor 43T atomik super stock,pn motor mount ,pn differential 54Tand 14T pinion fiber T and damper.Yesterday I finally got a Kt18 transmitter so I did few laps on my homemade track and was surprised how smooth and quite the car was compared to my stock mr03 sport .Later on when my son came home he wanted to race me so after few bumps my servo started to act up ,it would lock full left and stop working no response and no sound ,turning car/transmitter off and back on everything would go back to normal this happened few times.So I took servo and esc cover off and everything looked fine all I did moved the 3 wires a bit to see if any were loose re installed everything and went trough a fully charged battery set with no problem.Anybody ever experienced this problem ? I am aware of servo noise been I guess normal.

Solo1
2015.02.24, 10:28 AM
On my 03s I had to resolder a motor wire and when I cleaned the old solder off I spec fell on top of the board, all it took was a hit on a rail and that spec landed on 2 legs of the big chip on top of the board and the wheels locked to the left till I picked it off.

dwight
2015.02.24, 03:15 PM
Does the car have a metal 4th gear

TheSteve
2015.02.24, 04:02 PM
Does the car have a metal 4th gear

It does sound like there could be a tooth missing off of the 4th servo gear.

btw, some early KT18's have a nasty steering glitch with some MR03 boards that is capable of breaking the servo gears.

stefano225
2015.02.24, 06:00 PM
Didn't see any broken teeth and which one is the fourth gear is there a picture for reference?also how can you tell if my new kT18 is an early version? >I used the car again today with no issues .

mleemor60
2015.02.24, 06:31 PM
Make sure you set your steering endpoints a couple clicks less than max to help preserve the integrity of the fragile 4th gear.

stefano225
2015.02.24, 08:18 PM
Make sure you set your steering endpoints a couple clicks less than max to help preserve the integrity of the fragile 4th gear.

Did that tonight thanks for the tip .I read that somewhere on the forum so I checked the KT18 manual how to set endpoints .Again I had the car running pretty smooth tonight for 40 minutes no issues (knock on wood).

stefano225
2015.03.01, 08:10 PM
Well problem started again,car was running fine then started to act up again.It's always the same all of sudden wheels lock to the left servo goes quite no response turning transmitter and car off few times everything goes back to normal.I thought that mr03 asf was better then sport model.So far I like my sport model better.If I can't solve problem I am going to swap rear ends since the asf mr03 came with pn motor mount and differential.Can the sports mr03 fets handle an Atomic 43T stock motor ?

Jshwaa
2015.03.01, 09:37 PM
Take a really close look at the solder connections to the position potentiometer. Also look on both sides of the board for damaged components near where the wires connect.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/DSCN2326.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/DSCN2326.jpg.html)

My guess is that there is a cold solder joint that is giving you an intermittent connection. Thermal transients will cause the faulty solder joint to be intermittent. Good enough for passing the quality test, but not for extended run-time. It may help to run a soldering iron by all of those connections and see the solder flow to make sure you have good connections.

Check the connections at the potentiometer side too.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/DSCN2328.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/DSCN2328.jpg.html)

stefano225
2015.03.02, 08:05 PM
I had same problem again tonight within minutes and noticed something strange,when servo would lock up and stop responding if I put pressure from top and bottom of the board servo started working normal when releasing it would stop working.So I pull out the board tonight but didn't see anything lose but the switch wires looked kinda pinched or maybe to close to the board,so I placed a piece of electrical tape re installed everything.Ran car for about an hour or so with no issues I hope that solved the problem will see .

Jshwaa
2015.03.03, 01:06 PM
So I pull out the board tonight but didn't see anything lose but the switch wires looked kinda pinched or maybe to close to the board...

The 'switch' wires, meaning the 2 black wires to your switch? I'm sorry, but no issue with those wires would cause your steering servo to go hard-left.

Did you say that you lose ALL control of the car when this occurs, or JUST the steering?

Referring to the above pic, give the orange, black, and yellow wires a mild tug and see if one or more of them isn't loose.

KWT
2015.03.03, 07:28 PM
The 'switch' wires, meaning the 2 black wires to your switch? I'm sorry, but no issue with those wires would cause your steering servo to go hard-left.

Did you say that you lose ALL control of the car when this occurs, or JUST the steering?

Referring to the above pic, give the orange, black, and yellow wires a mild tug and see if one or more of them isn't loose.

And how would you know this is completely true? Have you tested every point the wires can come in contact to? The wires to the switch are live, it can send current to a component and cause it to act strangely.

The OP did state that the problem went away when he insulated the board by using electrical tape. That could point to a wire shorting something.

Jshwaa
2015.03.03, 08:53 PM
And how would you know this is completely true? Have you tested every point the wires can come in contact to? The wires to the switch are live, it can send current to a component and cause it to act strangely.

The OP did state that the problem went away when he insulated the board by using electrical tape. That could point to a wire shorting something.

Way to think outside my box, KWT, but I wasn't coming from the standpoint of a short, seeing that further pressure seemed to make the 'supposed' short go away. Apparently he saw something worth insulating if he put tape somewhere though, so you're probably right. I was coming from the standpoint of his pressure completing an intermittent connection.

But I take it that you have some experience with these wires shorting? Not surprised. Honestly, I saw that mile down the road, and I found this switch and its wiring to be redundant and annoying, especially because of the usual operating procedure of: 1) Put cells in. 2) Turn on switch 3) Run car 4) turn off switch 5) pull cells and charge. You can pull steps 2 and 3 without ill effect, making the switch useless. Putting in the 4th cell with the switch on turns your car on, so I pulled the switch and just shorted the switch positions.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/DSCN2274.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/DSCN2274.jpg.html)


Now I turn my car on by putting in the 4th cell. I know this would disqualify me from the 'non-modified switch' class of racers, but I don't care... That wiring was poorly placed and obviously opens the door to issues, IF KWT is correct in his diagnosis.

stefano225
2015.03.04, 08:06 AM
I pulled the board out four times last night, removed switch and hard wired that didn't solve problem now I don't get any movement from servo.The motor works fine reverse and forward no problems there I am going to re-solder wires to servo motor and maybe potentiometer but everything looked ok to me.I tried moving wires while board was powered but still no response from servo the only time I hear the servo is when moving tie rod manually ,servo gears move freely when no power is applied so I don't think problem is form gears.I don't hear rattle from servo anymore.

Jshwaa
2015.03.04, 09:17 AM
I pulled the board out four times last night, removed switch and hard wired that didn't solve problem now I don't get any movement from servo.The motor works fine reverse and forward no problems there I am going to re-solder wires to servo motor and maybe potentiometer but everything looked ok to me.I tried moving wires while board was powered but still no response from servo the only time I hear the servo is when moving tie rod manually ,servo gears move freely when no power is applied so I don't think problem is form gears.I don't hear rattle from servo anymore.

OK, take a step back and check your work before applying power. It sounds as if it is too late at this point, but let's see if we can fix this...

You don't have ANY servo response now, which regardless of the wiring to the potentiometer, no power is getting to the servo motor at this point. If the potentiometer wiring is compromised, you would be sending erroneous feedback to the mini-z controller, which would cause it to go hard-left or hard-right as you described previously, as the servo motor would be commanded to be chasing an erroneous command. NOW it sounds as if you don't have a good connection between the board and the red and blue wires that lead to your servo motor. KWT could have been cluing us to look for shorts in general, meaning that it could very well be any one of the 5 wires leading to your servo mechanism that are shorting. I was leaning towards an 'open' connection, but I just can't tell without the thing being in front of me.

Do you have a magnifying glass? This would be good to have right now, as you really need to do some visual inspection of the board. You don't need to be an electronics expert to be able to identify if something is wrong or broken off. Just look closely at the circuitry near where the servo wiring comes to the board. There has to be something going on there.

If it helps you, refer to these pics. They are of a healthy mini-z board. See if there is something different with your elecs.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/DSCN2284.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/DSCN2284.jpg.html)

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/DSCN2274.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/DSCN2274.jpg.html)

stefano225
2015.03.04, 11:01 AM
I re solder wires from servo and potentiometer and everything worked fine while out of the servo gears,so I concentrated on the gears,after removing servo saver and started to inspect 4th gear I noticed that on the very tip one tooth was bent.So I guess that must be the problem now I have to order gear set and wait.Here is a picture http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b617/stefano2251/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/0c39d36b-a441-42e7-a38e-cb5212094b43_zpsixtp1r3y.jpg

mleemor60
2015.03.04, 12:22 PM
Make sure you order the metal 4th gear or it will happen again. There are variations from Kyosho, Atomic and PN. The Kyosho unit is the most expensive but likely the superior part in my opinion.

Kyosho number MZW-417
PN number MR3056M

stefano225
2015.03.04, 05:42 PM
I ordered the kyosho plastic set and metal 4th gear.

stefano225
2015.03.07, 05:12 PM
After replacing full set of servo gears I am still having same problem,steering locked to the left no response .I am confused to what is causing the issue,when I had the board out of the chassis and powered if I would turn the potentiometer one way or the other it would make the servo motor respond.I just don't know what to do next I even re bind car and transmitter ,reset transmitter still no luck.Somebody please help I am out of ideas to what the problem is .

Jshwaa
2015.03.07, 08:26 PM
After replacing full set of servo gears I am still having same problem,steering locked to the left no response .I am confused to what is causing the issue,when I had the board out of the chassis and powered if I would turn the potentiometer one way or the other it would make the servo motor respond.I just don't know what to do next I even re bind car and transmitter ,reset transmitter still no luck.Somebody please help I am out of ideas to what the problem is .

stefano, take it easy. There's only so much we can do with your eyes and intuition (no offense).

It sounds to me, as I've said before, that you have an intermittent connection which is going to require that you get savvy with your soldering iron, and get acquainted with a substance known as 'solder flux'. You can purchase some of this stuff at your local Radio Shack, but hurry they are closing stores. If yours is closed, then order some from digikey...

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/DSCN2472.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/DSCN2472.jpg.html)

What is solder flux? It's a substance that displaces heat to a solder connection very good, so that the solder is refreshed, and re-flows in the joint that it was intended. It is used in the electronics industry quite extensively, and is the secret to good soldering.

Put some of this substance all over the area of your board where I've shown you in previous pictures (where servo wiring meets board). There are several little resistors and capacitors, and the little 8-legged IC that looks kind of like a FET. With flux paste on the board, one solder joint at a time, touch-up the solder at each side of each cap and resistor, and at each wire connection, and at each leg of the 8-legged IC. If you think you need more solder, then apply some carefully, but the flux should revive your solder and give it that shiny look like good solder joints do.

TheSteve
2015.03.07, 09:35 PM
Chances are it is something in the car but have you also tried the KT18 with another car just to be sure it isn't the transmitter?

stefano225
2015.03.08, 05:02 AM
Chances are it is something in the car but have you also tried the KT18 with another car just to be sure it isn't the transmitter?

Unfortunately I don't own another asf car only got couple sports mr03 so no way to test transmitter that was on my check list,but no way to test transmitter.

stefano225
2015.03.08, 10:45 AM
I made a video this morning after going trough re soldering everything again using flux still problem persist,I am out of leads now.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3Cp3ThafYo

Jshwaa
2015.03.08, 11:07 AM
Stefano, I'm a little inexperienced with the assembly of the servo with respect to the servo potentiometer, as I have never 'dis-assembled' and 're-assembled' it myself to know how things fit, but....

Could there be any chance that you have a misalignment with the potentiometer and the mechanism of the servo, which is causing the potentiometer's feedback to be biased a little, or is there only one way the potentiometer can fit into the assembly, making it a no-brainer?

If there is anyway you could swing the potentiometer a half turn in one direction or the other and reassemble, give that a try.

stefano225
2015.03.08, 11:14 AM
Stefano, I'm a little inexperienced with the assembly of the servo with respect to the servo potentiometer, as I have never 'dis-assembled' and 're-assembled' it myself to know how things fit, but....

Could there be any chance that you have a misalignment with the potentiometer and the mechanism of the servo, which is causing the potentiometer's feedback to be biased a little, or is there only one way the potentiometer can fit into the assembly, making it a no-brainer?

If there is anyway you could swing the potentiometer a half turn in one direction or the other and reassemble, give that a try.

Yes the potentiometer goes in one way all you have to do is align it no brainer there.I can manually turn the potentiometer one way or the other while out the servo assembly and the servo motor responds with no problems .

Jshwaa
2015.03.08, 11:27 AM
Yes the potentiometer goes in one way all you have to do is align it no brainer there.I can manually turn the potentiometer one way or the other while out the servo assembly and the servo motor responds with no problems .

OK, and how many degrees of turning span does your potentiometer have from one end to the other, or from center to either side? Does it give you a complete turn?

When you say that you manually turn the potentiometer one way or the other while out, and the servo motor responds with no problems, is this the case when adding transmitter stimulus?

I know that when you have the transmitter steering centered you can get the servo motor to go forward and reverse by tweaking the potentiometer off of its center, but do you get the appropriate response when turning the steering wheel on your transmitter and tweaking the potentiometer?

Can you turn the steering wheel and find the appropriate spot on the servo potentiometer to satisfy the command and put your servo motor at rest?

Lastly, does the spot on the servo potentiometer that puts your servo motor to rest makes sense with respect to the steering commands you are sending?

stefano225
2015.03.08, 11:46 AM
OK, and how many degrees of turning span does your potentiometer have from one end to the other, or from center to either side? Does it give you a complete turn?

When you say that you manually turn the potentiometer one way or the other while out, and the servo motor responds with no problems, is this the case when adding transmitter stimulus?

I know that when you have the transmitter steering centered you can get the servo motor to go forward and reverse by tweaking the potentiometer off of its center, but do you get the appropriate response when turning the steering wheel on your transmitter and tweaking the potentiometer?

Can you turn the steering wheel and find the appropriate spot on the servo potentiometer to satisfy the command and put your servo motor at rest?

Lastly, does the spot on the servo potentiometer that puts your servo motor to rest makes sense with respect to the steering commands you are sending?

The potentiometer will turn manually on each direction I say maybe 30 or35 degrees and does stop meaning doesn't spin a full circle, by entering input from transmitter I get no response only if I turn transmitter wheel and servo saver manually towards same direction and releasing it will center,then when I turn the steering wheel to the left it will lock in that position ,everything corresponds to transmitter wheel inputs if I manually assist the servo saver .Thanks for taking the time trying to help.The one thing that really sucks is I don't have another transmitter to test ,it might be a transmitter related problem all I know is my KT18 was brand new when I got it.

Jshwaa
2015.03.08, 11:58 AM
The potentiometer will turn manually on each direction I say maybe 30 or35 degrees and does stop meaning doesn't spin a full circle, by entering input from transmitter I get no response only if I turn transmitter wheel and servo saver manually towards same direction and releasing it will center,then when I turn the steering wheel to the left it will lock in that position ,everything corresponds to transmitter wheel inputs if I manually assist the servo saver .Thanks for taking the time trying to help.The one thing that really sucks is I don't have another transmitter to test ,it might be a transmitter related problem all I know is my KT18 was brand new when I got it.

No problem about the time. I have a little bit of it here and there, and that's what the forums are good for.

So what you're saying, and from what I saw in the video, is that you are not getting the servo to re-center after turning left. In fact, when you turn left, no matter what you do, the servo maintains left. But it does work fine in the right direction? Can you turn right and center as many times as you like and it works fine?

stefano225
2015.03.08, 12:18 PM
No problem about the time. I have a little bit of it here and there, and that's what the forums are good for.

So what you're saying, and from what I saw in the video, is that you are not getting the servo to re-center after turning left. In fact, when you turn left, no matter what you do, the servo maintains left. But it does work fine in the right direction? Can you turn right and center as many times as you like and it works fine?
It does not go right direction unless manually assisted and ones released it will center ,turning steering wheel to the left with no manual assistance servo turns left and locks with no more response. I am thinking about calling kyosho tech tomorrow to see if they ever encountered same issue from other customers or maybe call an hobby shop that sells mini z and are familiar with troubleshooting problems.I google researched but no luck usually I can figure things out but this time it's little tough.

Jshwaa
2015.03.08, 01:36 PM
No idea...

You need to acquire another set of elecs or transmitter to verify anything for sure, and that would be the route I would take before further surgery on your board.

I hope the Kyosho tech has some answers for you. Good luck.

mleemor60
2015.03.08, 01:59 PM
First. When it goes to full left and locks turn off the car and turn back on. Does it center? Second. Turn the car full left and if it locks turn the transmitter off and back on. Does it center?

stefano225
2015.03.08, 03:33 PM
First. When it goes to full left and locks turn off the car and turn back on. Does it center? Second. Turn the car full left and if it locks turn the transmitter off and back on. Does it center?
Either way it wont center.I am starting to wonder if the potentiometer is the problem.

KWT
2015.03.08, 08:57 PM
Try this, pull the serving motor out of the gear assy. Turn the transmitter wheel all the way and hold, then manually move the servo save to the exact spot it stops. Does teh motor stop moving? Let go of the steering wheel. does the motor move?

stefano225
2015.03.09, 09:02 AM
I made a new video with servo motor out of gear assembly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qu9AgxeY33k

KWT
2015.03.09, 09:42 PM
Looks like you have a broken wire or one side of the pot is bad. Try jumping a wire and testing. do it for each colored wire going to the pot. That way we can either eliminate the pot or the wires.

Jshwaa
2015.03.10, 07:49 AM
Looks like you have a broken wire or one side of the pot is bad. Try jumping a wire and testing. do it for each colored wire going to the pot. That way we can either eliminate the pot or the wires.

If that truly is the issue, than this problem is morphing and changing as it goes along. As well as I think he could, I believe he verified the wiring to the pot and refluxed all the solder joints, however the potentiometer itself could have a break in its travel causing erratic turning, but it doesn't seem erratic more than just not operating in the correct range, almost as if the wrong potentiometer value was used in the car, but this thing already passed final testing at manufacturer and ran for some time for the user, so I doubt the pot is outright wrong but could very well be damaged. I was on the hunch that one of the components between his potentiometer and the servo controller IC broke off, resulting in a biased feedback voltage to his servo controller IC.

I don't know what value the potentiometer is, but i believe if you wanted to just dummy rig a 5K pot to the existing wiring it would work for the purposes of seeing if you can correctly stimulate the turning action.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/DSCN2328.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/DSCN2328.jpg.html)

Another thing you could do to actually 'test' the pot is to connect your meter to the middle connection and one of the sides. Turn the pot back and forth and look for the corresponding resistance value. You should get values that increase and decrease in response to your turning of the pot. Any erratic change in value (especially to full resistance or zero) will prove to be an issue in operation. If you can find true center, then pivot the pot in either direction and verify its range of resistance values. You should have an equal amount of range in either direction from middle. If you don't, then the pot is damaged to the extent that it is unbalanced and will never put out the right feedback for whatever position it is in. I've never seen this happen in my experience, but that doesn't mean it's impossible...

Jshwaa
2015.03.10, 08:52 AM
Here is the value of the pot, from one end to the other(black wire to the red wire)...

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/DSCN2502.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/DSCN2502.jpg.html)

If you connect to the yellow wire and black wires with the pot centered...

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/DSCN2504.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/DSCN2504.jpg.html)

Now swing the pot one way, see the value go to either 'near' zero or 4.8K(depending on which way you turn), in this case we went to 'near' zero...

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/DSCN2505.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/DSCN2505.jpg.html)

And then turn it the other way and see the 'full' value of the pot...

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/DSCN2506.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/DSCN2506.jpg.html)

If you can do this, the pot is fine. Now, take another look at the board...

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/servo%20wiring%20connections.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/servo%20wiring%20connections.jpg.html)

I marked the connections between the servo potentiometer and parts on the board. Verify these connections with the 'conductivity tester' function of your meter. As much as I can tell, the 'greenish' looking part off to the right, next to your receiver IC, is a fuse. Reading the value across it net a really low value (under 1.0 ohm). Make sure you read a low value across it as well. I didn't find any other connections pertaining to the potentiometer on the board.

Next, you should try and power your board and make a voltage measurement between ground and any of the points the red wire connects to (see above pic to see points, but the best spot is the two legs soldered together on the main controller IC.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/DSCN2512.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/DSCN2512.jpg.html)

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/DSCN2511.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/DSCN2511.jpg.html)

You should measure exactly 3.3 volts. If not, then your potentiometer is not receiving the correct voltage to provide the correct feedback. If this is the case, I'm surprised your mini-z works at all, but it could if the voltage is 'higher' than it should be(ie, closer to the full voltage of your cells).

Some more pics of where you can check for voltages. These voltages were measured with 4.8V applied to the elecs.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/voltages%20on%20board.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/voltages%20on%20board.jpg.html)

The main power supply filter and level booster on on the underside...

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j314/Jshwaa/Mini-Z/board%20power%20supply.jpg (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/Jshwaa/media/Mini-Z/board%20power%20supply.jpg.html)

The 5.3V boost is so that the 3.3V regulator doesn't drop out when your cell voltage starts to get low. The 3.3V regulator must have a minimum voltage from input to output for the regulator to operate, and the regulator must operate for your main controller IC and servo elecs to operate.

Let us know what you find...

mleemor60
2015.03.10, 09:14 AM
I'm not certain that what he is experiencing isn't mechanical. The fact that it will re center with coaxing tells me that the issue isn't the electronics holding it. Though not excessively strong it would take significant effort to force the servo in the opposite direction while powered up. However, the fact that it always seems to stick in one direction says otherwise not to mention the fact that the whole rig was purchased used off the bay.

Jshwaa
2015.03.10, 10:00 AM
I'm not certain that what he is experiencing isn't mechanical. The fact that it will re center with coaxing tells me that the issue isn't the electronics holding it. Though not excessively strong it would take significant effort to force the servo in the opposite direction while powered up. However, the fact that it always seems to stick in one direction says otherwise not to mention the fact that the whole rig was purchased used off the bay.

If he can verify everything to the detail that I've written, then it has to be mechanical, however I can't imagine a scenario where the elecs wouldn't be involved with this, at least to the point where the mechanical meets electrical (servo pot). Let's see what he finds...

stefano225
2015.03.10, 07:09 PM
Tried to test the board but mine looks different so I just give up.The last I am going to do is try a new potentiometer if that doesn't fix it maybe send board to kyosho or someone who can test it for me,do you guys know of any shops that could do that? .Unfortunately they're no more hobby shops near me that I know of.Thanks to all of you who tried to help me, this is a great forum.

TheSteve
2015.03.10, 09:29 PM
Where are you located?

DMALMAD
2015.03.10, 10:45 PM
yeah this really sounds like a physical problem and not electrical. Have you considered if one of the shafts holding the gears is bent? At this point it is just a sport and a new board could be had for relatively cheap and would eliminate all the headache if it isnt physical (You should be able to move the servo assembly very easily with little to no resistance even with the servo motor installed). If you bought this used there is little chance that Kyosho will repair this for you. And if they do you would have to pay for shipping to Japan, service fee, and shipping back. Just cut your losses and maybe invest in a higher quality board like the pn or asf board. This is why you always avoid buying second hand off ebay, you see it as a great deal but more often than not it is being sold because there is something wrong with it. Some things you can buy used but when it comes to your chassis, you always want to know what it has been through and to do that you have to pay for new equipment. Would you buy your real car off ebay??? No carfax, no service history, don't even get to see it or drive it. Same deal with rc, better to be safe rather than sorry as you are out at least another 70-100$ for a board and maybe servo assembly that coud have been put to better use than repairing an entry level second hand kit.

Jshwaa
2015.03.10, 11:25 PM
Tried to test the board but mine looks different so I just give up.The last I am going to do is try a new potentiometer if that doesn't fix it maybe send board to kyosho or someone who can test it for me,do you guys know of any shops that could do that? .Unfortunately they're no more hobby shops near me that I know of.Thanks to all of you who tried to help me, this is a great forum.

So, are you scrapping the board??

stefano225
2015.03.11, 05:05 AM
yeah this really sounds like a physical problem and not electrical. Have you considered if one of the shafts holding the gears is bent? At this point it is just a sport and a new board could be had for relatively cheap and would eliminate all the headache if it isnt physical (You should be able to move the servo assembly very easily with little to no resistance even with the servo motor installed). If you bought this used there is little chance that Kyosho will repair this for you. And if they do you would have to pay for shipping to Japan, service fee, and shipping back. Just cut your losses and maybe invest in a higher quality board like the pn or asf board. This is why you always avoid buying second hand off ebay, you see it as a great deal but more often than not it is being sold because there is something wrong with it. Some things you can buy used but when it comes to your chassis, you always want to know what it has been through and to do that you have to pay for new equipment. Would you buy your real car off ebay??? No carfax, no service history, don't even get to see it or drive it. Same deal with rc, better to be safe rather than sorry as you are out at least another 70-100$ for a board and maybe servo assembly that coud have been put to better use than repairing an entry level second hand kit.
This is an ASF board that I am having problem with not a sport.I do own two sports mr03 that I am pretty satisfied with,when I got the car it looked unused and worked great,then the servo started locking up.I did replaced servo gears and pins so the problem is not in gear assembly I can move servo saver with no problems.The problem lies in the electronics,if I would have experienced the problem from the beginning then I would have contacted the seller right away and still be protected from ebay policy the item was listed as new.Comparing an 140.00 rc with a real car is little ridiculous no I would not buy a real car on ebay lol .I bought many items on ebay over the years and never ones experienced any problems whatsoever.Some good deals can be found on ebay this was one,expect that the electronics might be faulty from manufacture that wasn't experienced from testing and developed later.The one think I dislike about this mini z is the servo setup,instead of offering a simple plug in micro servo like many other manufactures do,they have to make it so complicated.

stefano225
2015.03.11, 05:11 AM
Where are you located?

Northeast PA

stefano225
2015.03.11, 05:13 AM
So, are you scrapping the board??

Not sure ones I get potentiometer and try that I might want to get board tested first I just don't know where yet.

Jshwaa
2015.03.11, 06:52 AM
The one think I dislike about this mini z is the servo setup,instead of offering a simple plug in micro servo like many other manufactures do,they have to make it so complicated.

I have my share of gripes about the mini-z too. When I first got mine it seemed I couldn't do anything with it without breaking something. They are pretty fragile out of the box. However, plugs cost $$, have mass and take up volume. I myself could live without it, but I see where you're coming from.

Jshwaa
2015.03.11, 06:55 AM
Not sure ones I get potentiometer and try that I might want to get board tested first I just don't know where yet.

Oh, thought you were giving up...

A new set of elecs goes for about $60 shipped on ebay.

Did you verify that your potentiometer was the issue by whatever means, or are you just replacing it and crossing your fingers?

DMALMAD
2015.03.11, 07:28 AM
The bennifit of Kyosho's servo setup is it is very acurate and extremly fast so it is a tradeoff. Ease of use or speed and small size.

Jshwaa
2015.03.11, 08:17 AM
Yea, a connector would be mass, volume, and cost. As small as the car is, if you had a connector for every wire it could start getting crowded. The design did not include the intention of disassembling every part. The hobby just took it that direction and it's up to the hobbyist to adapt.

stefano225
2015.03.11, 08:28 AM
Oh, thought you were giving up...

A new set of elecs goes for about $60 shipped on ebay.

Did you verify that your potentiometer was the issue by whatever means, or are you just replacing it and crossing your fingers?
Just replace it if that doesn't fix problem I will keep as spare .I see for sports mr03 is about sixty but mine is an ASF board,I think asf are little more expensive.

stefano225
2015.03.11, 08:35 AM
Meanwhile I was thinking about using that atomic 43T motor currently hoked up on my asf board on my sport mr03 will that handle it or will I risk frying the stock fets?

mleemor60
2015.03.11, 09:13 AM
Do not do that. It might work but it's highly unlikely.

Jshwaa
2015.03.11, 09:51 AM
I wouldn't do it if you cared about your stock FET's, but then again I don't know what cells or gearing your using to know if it is a definite no-no.

If you plan on changing FET's anyway, but aren't confident in your soldering skills to pull it off, wait until you fry the stocks and 'need' to change FET's.

If you plan on changing FET's, and you 'are' confident in your soldering skills, change the FET's now and try to preserve your stocks for a rainy day.

I think I used my stock FET's for about as long as it took to verify my car could go forward and reverse out of the box, then I switched them, knowing I was going to be running hot motors and cells.

Jshwaa
2015.03.11, 10:46 AM
The bennifit of Kyosho's servo setup is it is very acurate and extremly fast so it is a tradeoff. Ease of use or speed and small size.

Yea, one thing that impressed me about the steering position feedback system is that the speed at which the servo motor is commanded to turn is proportional to how far away it is from its commanded position. I didn't notice that while fully assembled, but when you watch the servo motor spinning in relation to turning the potentiometer it's easy to see. When centered at the commanded position, the motor is off. If you tweak the pot ever so slightly off of its commanded position, the servo motor spins slowly. If you turn the pot way off of commanded position, the servo motor rips! This results in a nice 'non-twitching' steering mechanism. This is one of many ways the mini-z is better than xmods, because xmods servo motor just ripped in one direction or the other as soon as you crossed center threshold. This made for some very twitchy steering action, as the steering mechanism was always overcompensating due to the clunky 'full-on' drive response of the servo motor, and especially if you up'ed the voltage to 6-cell, because then the servo motor was just 'that' much faster and the twitching got worse. Hats off to the mini-z designers for the proportional steering feedback.

TheSteve
2015.03.11, 03:53 PM
Northeast PA

I would have been happy to check the board/pot out for you but being that I am in Canada shipping back/forth isn't very cost effective.

stefano225
2015.03.17, 12:55 PM
Got the potentiometer in the mail yesterday and I now have an extra one for back up since that didn't fix problem.I guess the board needs to be tested meanwhile I just play around with my sports model,recently got an r246 motor mount and atomic titanium ball diff and pn 70T and 3racing rolling damper on the way, even with the stock motor car performs pretty smooth with upraded ball differential.

KWT
2015.03.17, 03:46 PM
Northeast PA

How far from Philly?

stefano225
2015.03.17, 04:39 PM
About 30 minutes or so.

KWT
2015.03.18, 06:49 PM
I work in Philly and there's a mini-z club near Reading that you can visit for help. They race a few times a month.

stefano225
2015.03.18, 08:03 PM
I work in Philly and there's a mini-z club near Reading that you can visit for help. They race a few times a month.

Do you have the name or address of the club?

DMALMAD
2015.03.18, 08:10 PM
100 Heritage Drive
Elverson, PA 19520

They race a couple of sundays every month and this is where all the info you need is posted: http://mini-zracer.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=67

Guy to talk to is AL he is the main guy and if he isn't to busy running the races he will more than likely be willing to help you out. Great track and the guys who run the show are class acts, when I made the trip I had a lot of fun racing and like I said guys are great. Also the hobby shop it is in is HUGE awesome facility, I only have positive things to say about the railyard hobbies mini-z crew:)

stefano225
2015.03.19, 06:13 AM
100 Heritage Drive
Elverson, PA 19520

They race a couple of sundays every month and this is where all the info you need is posted: http://mini-zracer.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=67

Guy to talk to is AL he is the main guy and if he isn't to busy running the races he will more than likely be willing to help you out. Great track and the guys who run the show are class acts, when I made the trip I had a lot of fun racing and like I said guys are great. Also the hobby shop it is in is HUGE awesome facility, I only have positive things to say about the railyard hobbies mini-z crew:)
Thank you ,somebody else here in this forum mention this place,I thought this was a different place,will definitely give them a call.

imxlr8ed
2015.03.19, 08:34 AM
Already PMed you, we have not yet decided on a date for next month, we just raced this last Sunday... if you're 30 minutes west of Philly, you're more than likely closer to Railyard than you think!

But don't go there for work on your car... they don't have much for tech help at that level. We go there to race and have a good time. They do have a pretty good inventory of Mini-Z parts though.

stefano225
2015.03.19, 08:49 AM
Already PMed you, we have not yet decided on a date for next month, we just raced this last Sunday... if you're 30 minutes west of Philly, you're more than likely closer to Railyard than you think!

But don't go there for work on your car... they don't have much for tech help at that level. We go there to race and have a good time. They do have a pretty good inventory of Mini-Z parts though.
Thanks,I got your pm and just text him to see when is a good time to call him.

lfisminiz
2015.03.19, 06:47 PM
Thanks,I got your pm and just text him to see when is a good time to call him.

If your on F******k, search for Reading Miniz Racers. Lots of pics and talk on our club.;)

imxlr8ed
2015.03.20, 02:59 AM
Oh... address for Railyard is 1000, Heritage Drive in Elverson... not 100. Same mistake I made a while back. :o