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JatoTheRipper
2015.05.05, 11:01 PM
Hi. First post here. I just bought an MB-010 Optima buggy. The transmitter turns on, but the LED on the car does not light up. I tried two sets of brand new batteries and verified polarity was correct. Any ideas what could be wrong or how to troubleshoot this issue?

Thank you.

RussF
2015.05.06, 03:37 PM
Did you switch the power on on the buggy? Probably but you didnt say. The transmitter may need to be "bound" to the car. follow the instructions for binding.

JatoTheRipper
2015.05.06, 05:51 PM
Did you switch the power on on the buggy? Probably but you didnt say. The transmitter may need to be "bound" to the car. follow the instructions for binding.
Haha! Good point. Yes, I turned the switch on. I also tried it in the off position just in case it was installed backwards. Neither worked.

Will the car bind to the transmitter if the LED isn't on?

RussF
2015.05.06, 06:20 PM
No I dont think so. Must be a problem with the battery contacts or wires going to the batteries or from the batteries to the board. Or I guess if everything is good it might be a dead board. Are you sure the batteries are in right?

JatoTheRipper
2015.05.06, 06:28 PM
No I dont think so. Must be a problem with the battery contacts or wires going to the batteries or from the batteries to the board. Or I guess if everything is good it might be a dead board. Are you sure the batteries are in right?
Yes, I triple or quadruple checked the batteries using both the manual and the markings molded into the chassis.

I am annoyed. I've purchased two Kyosho products in my life which both happen to be from this year (Scorpion 2014 and this Mini-Z) and both have had issues. Kyosho America is not willing to help with the warranty because I bought it online from a HobbyShop in Japan.

El Tigre
2015.05.06, 10:15 PM
Check the wires that are soldered to the battery terminals and verify if they are connected properly, a poor solder joint is always possible and many times will pass a QC check, but become unconnected during shipment, rare but possible. You can also clean the battery terminals with a pencil eraser , it is mildly abrasive and will slough off any oxidation or tarnish that may have formed during shipment to you from overseas. I have had the motor terminals have this issue with new out of the box Z's and that caused the motor to work intermittently. Good luck , stay positive.

JatoTheRipper
2015.05.07, 07:17 AM
Check the wires that are soldered to the battery terminals and verify if they are connected properly, a poor solder joint is always possible and many times will pass a QC check, but become unconnected during shipment, rare but possible. You can also clean the battery terminals with a pencil eraser , it is mildly abrasive and will slough off any oxidation or tarnish that may have formed during shipment to you from overseas. I have had the motor terminals have this issue with new out of the box Z's and that caused the motor to work intermittently. Good luck , stay positive.
Thank you! I'll try that when I get a chance.

The reseller refuses to help me other than taking it back and giving me a full refund. I don't want that because these Optima ReadySets are almost impossible to find these days. Maybe I'll contact Kyosho of Japan.

briankstan
2015.05.07, 08:13 AM
Where are you located? there are people here willing and able to help if someone is close to your location.

DMALMAD
2015.05.07, 10:27 AM
Try and bend out the battery contacts on the - side to apply more pressure. Sometimes those tabs do not apply enough pressure to fully contact both sides of the battery, so while it may seem like all the batteries are in properly and contacting, they may not be porviding any power. Had this happen to me when I bought a new kit, this is a common thing.

LED
2015.05.07, 04:30 PM
Push the battery's hard into the positive direction with a screwdriver or something. Sometimes they are a tight fit and don't touch the positive side.
If you want to double check and have multimeter, make sure you have 4.8V over all the batteries. Then you are sure they are touching the contacts.

JatoTheRipper
2015.05.08, 06:50 PM
Thanks for the responses. I did a little tinkering last night with no luck. I tightened the screws in the attached picture. I also took voltage readings there and got nothing.

Does this heat shrink tube look normal? Is that typically there on a new MB-010?
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8724/17423567942_e4a7cc083c_z.jpghttps://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7706/17423577332_518e8fea14_z.jpg

LED
2015.05.09, 02:59 AM
Is your steering working? If not then the problems is not there. Those are the motor connections. I assume you are simply not getting any power to the print of the buggy. So ignore those for the moment.
If your steering is working then we need to look at other things.
Did you measure directly on the batterys?

JatoTheRipper
2015.05.09, 09:09 AM
Is your steering working? If not then the problems is not there. Those are the motor connections. I assume you are simply not getting any power to the print of the buggy. So ignore those for the moment.
If your steering is working then we need to look at other things.
Did you measure directly on the batterys?
I do not have steering. I don't have any signs of power - not even the LED.

Where should I measure that batteries? I don't know how they're wired. Positive on the outermost battery to negative on the opposite, outermost battery?

LED
2015.05.09, 10:01 AM
If you look at the botom of the buggy, next to the switch the positive. And yes on the other side of the buggy the negative one.
You shpould have 4.8V minimal without even turning on the switch.

JatoTheRipper
2015.05.26, 10:24 PM
The reseller agreed to take this back, return it to Kyosho for inspection and repair and then send it back to me all on their dime. I thought that was awesome of them.

I received it today and nothing has changed. The reseller stated the following:

"Thank you for sending the item and we have the manufacturer (Kyosho) checked the item.

They have changed the new transmitter and they informed that there is no problem with the chassis.

You just should have undergone a pairing adjustment (you needed a pairing adjustment if you use a new transmitter you have purchased).

They have underwent a pairing adjustment for this ready set now and we have also checked the inspection before the shipment."

The light on the new transmitter constantly blinks. The LED on the car doesn't light up even when I try to put it into binding mode. The car shows no signs of life - at all. I verified the batteries are installed and that they have life.

What am I missing???

LuckyDuc
2015.05.26, 11:04 PM
The blinking light on the transmitter just indicates that it is in traing mode also called tiki tiki mode. You can put it back in normal mode by turning it off, holding full throttle and then turning it back on. The light on the transmitter will be solid then, indicating "normal" mode.

I would try pairing it again after

JatoTheRipper
2015.06.01, 07:58 PM
How can I pair it with the car when the LED never comes on?

LuckyDuc
2015.06.01, 08:53 PM
If the chassis light is not blinking or solid, then no power is making it to the board. I would inspect all connections going to the board. It may be a loose connection. If that fails, you might have a bad component on the board itself that requires a replacement board under warranty or purchase of a new board.

JatoTheRipper
2015.07.04, 10:58 AM
Update: Kyosho America decided to accept this to be returned under warranty despite it being against their policy for items purchased outside of the US. I am extremely grateful for that. They confirmed the board was bad and sent me a new Lazer instead of an Optima. Not sure why they did that, but they allowed me to keep my Optima body and wheels and tires so I was happy.

When I received this brand new Lazer I could not get it to work. After some head scratching I noticed the positive terminal on some of my Duracell batteries weren't long enough to contact the terminals on the car. I installed Energizer batteries with slightly longer positive terminals and all is well.

I'm blown away by how slow these things are though. I need more power!

Suggestions?

I'm also interested in buying an AWD chassis for drifting. The new MA-020S chassis appears to be the best place to start.

mleemor60
2015.07.04, 12:03 PM
Standard non- rechargeable batteries will give you squat for performance but some relatively serious longevity. To get anywhere near peak performance you will need to invest in a few sets of rechargeable NIMH batteries and a suitable charger. Put the standard dry cells in the radio.

JatoTheRipper
2015.07.04, 06:34 PM
Standard non- rechargeable batteries will give you squat for performance but some relatively serious longevity. To get anywhere near peak performance you will need to invest in a few sets of rechargeable NIMH batteries and a suitable charger. Put the standard dry cells in the radio.
I purchased some lithium ion disposable batteries and they gave a small bump in performance.

I was told that large capacity (mAh) NiMH batteries didn't offer as much punch as NiMH batteries with less capacity. Is this true?

Which NiMH batteries and charger do you recommend?

What about LiPo batteries?

cowboysir
2015.07.04, 06:46 PM
I purchased some lithium ion disposable batteries and they gave a small bump in performance.

I was told that large capacity (mAh) NiMH batteries didn't offer as much punch as NiMH batteries with less capacity. Is this true?

Which NiMH batteries and charger do you recommend?

What about LiPo batteries?

You are correct about high capacity NiMH being lower discharge.

1000mAh cells are about the max.

LI-Po or Li-Fe can be used but it's a bit of a mod to get then working on a Z.

mleemor60
2015.07.04, 07:10 PM
The current battery offerings from PN racing are more than adequate at 800MAH. They can be purchased directly or probably through our forum benefactor, Tiny RC. Same for chargers. There are literally dozens available. I have always had a great deal of luck with the offerings from Lacrosse Technology. The BC 900 and above series chargers are excellent and come with a usable set of triple AAA and AA batteries. They have become a bit pricey in recent years but deals can be found. The new charger from "Sky" has proven to be very good as well. Look for something with a 1000MAH charge rate which is adjustable for various other rates as well. Most have discharge capabilities as well. Just go shopping at Tiny RC.

JatoTheRipper
2015.07.07, 08:43 AM
I was told that FlySky radios would bind with Mini-Zs. Is this true?

LuckyDuc
2015.07.07, 08:45 AM
I tried to bind my FlySky to my Optima with NO success.

mleemor60
2015.07.07, 09:20 AM
I was told that FlySky radios would bind with Mini-Zs. Is this true?

Only the "Sports" series cars will bind with the offerings from Flysky. The rest, including the buggies(I believe) are "ASF"

fastmax
2015.07.07, 09:22 AM
@JatoTheRipper if you want more power and speed without spending too much, either of these will fit the bill perfectly.

http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=21617&cat=392&page=1

http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=20790&cat=392&page=3

Both are a major boost over the stock motor.

fastmax
2015.07.07, 09:26 AM
I was told that FlySky radios would bind with Mini-Zs. Is this true?

I believe, but don't quote me, that people have had success binding FlySky radios with the Sports series boards. No go with the ASF boards, which are far superior to the Sports series.

JatoTheRipper
2015.07.07, 08:32 PM
Thanks for the feedback.

JatoTheRipper
2015.07.14, 07:14 PM
I purchased a PN Racing 50T DBB motor on sale at my LHS. I put it in tonight and it really woke my buggy up. But now I'm hearing a clicking sound. I don't know if it's the gears or the slipper clutch. I'm used to 1/10 slipper clutches and they don't grind or click.

Is the slipper clutch adjustable?

Also, I'm going to need a good set of screwdrivers if I continue working on this. All my tools are geared towards 1/10th RCs. Any suggestions for good screwdrivers with hardened tips that won't round off?

KWT
2015.07.14, 10:54 PM
I would check the diffs. They have plastic gears and are known to strip. You can get the Harden replacement diff. If you are getting a screw driver make sure they are JIS drivers because they are not phillips screw heads.

JatoTheRipper
2015.07.15, 08:30 AM
I would check the diffs. They have plastic gears and are known to strip. You can get the Harden replacement diff. If you are getting a screw driver make sure they are JIS drivers because they are not phillips screw heads.
The slipper clutch is there to protect the drivetrain. Is there a way to loosen it so the gears don't get stripped?

gctkaz
2015.07.15, 11:00 AM
I would check the diffs. They have plastic gears and are known to strip. You can get the Harden replacement diff.
The buggy already comes with the hard gear diff (metal spider gears and metal outdrives) installed as original equipment.

The slipper clutch is there to protect the drivetrain. Is there a way to loosen it so the gears don't get stripped?
The slipper clutch consists of a 5-point star-like piece with rounded tips which fits into a ring with detents. The plastic star arms bend slightly and the star rotates into the next detent positions on the outer ring when the clutch needs to slip. Tension in the slipper clutch is loosened by snapping off an arm from the inner star, and increasing tension involves buying a new star piece with intact arms - they come in packs of 2.
The slipper comes from the factory with two arms already removed.

JatoTheRipper
2015.07.16, 07:59 AM
I searched the internet last night to get more info on the material of construction of the drivetrain gears as well as the slipper clutch and I couldn't find anything.

Judging by your definition of the slipper clutch, my clicking definitely sounds like it could be just that.

mleemor60
2015.07.16, 08:21 AM
Look at the mesh between the pinion and spur gear. You would be surprised at the racket an infinitesimal piece of debris can make. Make sure that the area behind the teeth on the pinion isn't in contact with the spur. You might also check to be sure you are using the correct pitch pinion. 48 and not 64.

JatoTheRipper
2015.07.16, 08:42 AM
I used the stock pinion and spur. I think the only way the mesh could have gotten messed up is if I installed the motor plate the wrong way. I don't believe I have though.

It's extremely difficult to tell if the pinion and spur are aligned. I was worried the spur might contact the area of the pinion without teeth during the install. The car didn't make any noise from the start and the noise isn't constant so I don't think this is the issue, but it's possible.

JatoTheRipper
2015.07.16, 05:33 PM
I picked up my second Mini-Z. I ordered the MR-03S MR-03S Ferrari 458 Italia GT2 online. I couldn't pass it up for $115 shipped. The pictures are below. I'm sure my neighbors thought I was a weirdo for lying in the driveway taking pictures. :p

I was expecting this to be an RM, but I was quite please to see that it is an MM when I received it. Kyosho makes it extremely difficult, if not impossible to determine if the cars are MM or RM online.

It's quite a bit noisier than my MB-010. It also pulls quite a bit to the right during acceleration. Is that normal because of the offset diff?

I was also annoyed that the driver's side mirror was pointed sky high and it doesn't want to stay down like the passenger side mirror. I know...minor details.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/510/19761325111_420188a235_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/w7eXtV)0716151725a (https://flic.kr/p/w7eXtV)https://farm1.staticflickr.com/530/19761341121_32a4be6b0e_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/w7f3eX)0716151721c (https://flic.kr/p/w7f3eX)https://farm1.staticflickr.com/369/19568630298_af5ec119d7_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vPdm2y)0716151719a (https://flic.kr/p/vPdm2y)https://farm1.staticflickr.com/514/19730480266_ba15ac1328_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/w4vSof)0716151719 (https://flic.kr/p/w4vSof)

DMALMAD
2015.07.16, 06:00 PM
Make sure the wheels are centered. On the radio there are buttons to trim the steering. Normally the car should track straight if the trim is correct. If the trim is correct and the problem persists check to see if there is any binding at any of the 4 wheels and if there is binding in the differential itself.

JatoTheRipper
2015.07.16, 08:24 PM
The steering can be centered and it still pulls to the right. Even if I adjust the steering to the left, it will pull right upon hard acceleration.

The left wheel spins easier than the right wheel when I turn them by hand.

DMALMAD
2015.07.16, 11:58 PM
Ok since you have noticed a binding issue, first take the motor out and see if the rear axle spins freely on its own. If it does not take your rear wheels off and take your differential out and make sure the diff hub is not grindng against the motor pod. It may be that your wheel nuts are simply too tight. If your rear axle does spin freely then try opening up your diff, cleaning it out with some motor spray, and then putting some thin bushing / bearing oil in to make sure the interals are free to move without binding.

Do you have ball bearings installed? If you just have the stock bushings I would suggest some bearings and probably a ball diff. You can adjust the side to side play with the ball diff (how tight or loose it is on the pod) along with the amount of differential action. At the very least bearings are a must, at least on the axle and on the right side wheel.

JatoTheRipper
2015.07.17, 07:26 AM
I didn't realize the MR-03S came with bushings. My MB-010 came stock with bearings so I assumed all Mini-Zs did. I will order bearings right away. Is there a set that's better than the standard Kyosho option part? I think Kyosho's bearings are extremely overpriced and if I can find the sizes online I can just piece a kit together.

I am not a huge fan of ball diffs because I'm not the best at building or adjusting them. Are the Mini-Z ball diffs as high maintenance and sensitive to adjustment like the 1/10 version?

DMALMAD
2015.07.17, 08:36 AM
You can buy the pn bearing set, or bearings from companies like boca bearings. As for the ball diff it really is not a lot of maintenance unless you are racing competitively and even then I only rebuild it once a month. Ball diffs make adjustments easier and more precise . If you want to stick with a gear diff pn and atomic make aftermarket versions that are better and more adjustable than the stock unit. But IMO there is a reason 1/12 pan cars still use ball diffs.

KWT
2015.07.17, 12:42 PM
[QUOTE=gctkaz;457907]The buggy already comes with the hard gear diff (metal spider gears and metal outdrives) installed as original equipment.


I have 2 buggies and they do not come with the hardened gear diff. My son broke the diff gears by jumping the car off a small ramp he made out of a shoe box. After it broke, it started making loud noised like how the OP described.