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briankstan
2015.08.04, 10:07 AM
time to get your times submitted if you have them.

I see times from the following clubs.

Washington Area GTG
Salt Lake Mini-Z

briankstan
2015.08.06, 09:08 AM
time are up for Races 1 and 2. Looks like it's going to be a competitive season.

https://www.howfastareyou.com/events/index/230

mini-cam
2015.08.06, 01:24 PM
time are up for Races 1 and 2. Looks like it's going to be a competitive season.

https://www.howfastareyou.com/events/index/230

Hey Brian, where can someone find your car set-ups at? Do you have a thread on here? Just trying to get an idea of a good starting set up for a MR03 chassis for the 70t racing.

briankstan
2015.08.06, 01:29 PM
Hey Brian, where can someone find your car set-ups at? Do you have a thread on here? Just trying to get an idea of a good starting set up for a MR03 chassis for the 70t racing.

I have my setup, not really a setup sheet but a full car build. I'll post it up. Let me find it.

:)

briankstan
2015.08.06, 02:10 PM
Here is my setup, this if for the car I’m currently running on HFAY and the races I travel too.

This is by far the best setup and the fastest setup that I have run on the MR-03 and I’ve tried quite a few different options,

I actually built most of our clubs cars and they are running this same or very similar setup, it’s fast and easy to drive fast. (Russ, Chad, Nino and Myself are running this setup). Let me know if you have any questions about anything I have in here.

Obviously you don’t have to run it exactly this way, but this is how I have it setup and it’s really, really good.

Here goes, I’ve tried to be as complete as possible in how I build it and setup up, but if it’s not clear hit me up and I’ll try to explain in more detail. This is a complete breakdown of my car along with the part numbers of the parts I run. It uses all PN parts but you can swap for other brands of items if you like.

MR-03 Chassis setup with McLaren F1 LM Body (short one). I’ve also run this setup with the Ferrari 458 Italia, and the Mclaren 12C and works very well with both. The Mclarenw are lighter, but both handle very well on large and small tracks.

Rear Suspension
MR3001S – PN # 3 Silver Carbon T-plate
MR2060 – PN Disk Damper with fiberglass plate, I’m running the gold spring on the bottom, the blue spring on top, center the plates so the springs are even in height. Before assembling the damper, I sand the plate with 2000 grit, and also break all the edges on the outside and the inner hole on the plate so there won’t be anything to catch. Also sand the bottom of the disks that run on the plate, the action should be very smooth in operation. I don’t use any disk grease I run them dry.

MR2161 – PN Dual spring shock, stock springs with about 3/32” preload on the main spring. Adjust as needed. (there are springs available, but I’m just running the stock ones.)

MR3009 – PN High Clap Force T-Plate mount. (not really required but it does hold everything more secure especially if you are changing plates more often as it is threaded and doesn’t wear out the plastic.
Drive Train

600800A – PN Standard steel bearings, I run them dry (so you clean them with cleaner but don’t lube them, if I need to lube them I use comm drops because the oil in it is very thin.

MR2055P – PN gear diff, I have to put a small amount of blue loctite on the threads to keep the adjuster nut from loosening. Adjust so there is little to no tension on the gears, should feel smooth with maybe just a little tension, but not too much.
or

MR2048 – Ceramic Ball Diff V3, light weight, if you running a ball diff make sure you rebuild it if it’s not feeling smooth in its action. I will use 800 grit sandpaper on the disk, I sand both sides to make sure the plates are flat, then when assembling I only use half the balls, one in every other hole. I lube the balls with Kyosho Diff Grease, just a dab, then roll the balls in it and drop them in the holes. Sanding the plates is very important, you don’t want to polish them they need a little grit from the sanding that lets the balls grip the plates, this gives excellent diff action without causing slip. After you build it you will tighten the nut snug, then it will take a few runs to break in, then you’ll need to adjust the nut in just a little more. Very small adjustments on the ball diff.

Smaller tracks will benefit from running the gear diff, especially if it’s a stock 70T motor. The car will handle the 50T great as well, but will get more tire wear with the gear diff.

Front End
MR3050 – A-arm Front suspension (I have it set with 1 degree of caster, 2 degrees of camber, +1 toe out bar). The a-arm has reactive camber so it changes as the suspension moves and I get very even wear across the tires. I’m running the purple a-arm spring, but have also run the green and red springs. it’s more toward the softer side. I feel this is one of the most important items to add for the front end. I preload the front spring by adjusting the ride height screw (the one with the spring on it) all the way in, then I back it out 2 full turns, and set the set screw so it won’t move. There is some “slop” in the knuckles but don’t shim this out, this will act as your front “droop” and help with managing the speed and rear traction.

Front tires
RXF15 - PN 15 degree X-pattern (I true them down, cutting the treads off, they are the best when they are 23mm or smaller, you can cut them down to that or just take the treads off is fine, to get longer tire life. Obviously by cutting the tires down you shorten the life of the tire, but you also gain performance and you change both the right height and roll center of the car. This is key to keeping the car stable and planted while carrying as much speed as possible though the corners and this is key and will lower your lap times.

Rear tires
RRR06 – PN 6 degree radials run them right out of the package. They are best when they are new, but depending on the track conditions you can keep running them for a long time even after the treads are long gone.
Or RXR06 – The X-pattern version of the 6 degree rear. Good but not as good as the RRR06, IMO.

Tape the tires on both front and back with the tire tape, any brand should be fine but the R246 tape is by far the strongest. Car is at its best with new rear and new fronts, sometimes you might have too much traction and traction roll, but this is mostly on about the first 5 or so laps and can be taken care of with the warm up laps so the races won’t be an issue.

I've been testing out the Marka tires as well the seem very good but I haven't noticed much difference between them and the PN tires. Maybe the rear tires last a bit longer? I did notice that the track needs to have a good prep for them to have traction. I ran them outside on a slightly dirty track and had no traction with them. switched back to PN radials and had good traction.

Motor Mount
MR2999 – Reconfigurable Motor mount. The motor sits flat and low in this mount, so it keeps the center of gravity as low as possible with the weight of the motor.

Or MR3395 – LCG V3 mount, the motor sits up a little higher but still work well. This one is all aluminum.


Gearing
I’m running 12/53 gearing with the 64 pitch gears. In most situations, for a larger tracks I’ll bump it to a 13t pinion.

Batteries
I’m running both the Peak Racing 900’s. Good quality batteries are a mush especially in stock class racing. I charge my batteries at 1.5amp and have my charger set to cut off at 900mah.

Weight
My car comes in at 171 grams, right above the minimum weight of 170 grams. I have added weight using they kyosho weight tape to my car. I've used it in the triagle secton at the bottom of the chassis as well as on the CF plate of the motor mount and on the front nose clip.

Some tips on Radio Settings, I have my throttle sub trim turned up so the car almost wants to roll without getting throttle, this helps carry speed through the corner, but also means you have to be very precise with hitting good entry points and exit points to use the speed you are carrying.
I don’t use brakes much when driving my mini-z’s, it more about timing and the right let off point for hitting the corner apex then rolling back onto the throttle mid corner. This carries a lot of speed through the corners and will also increase your top line speed because you are starting from a faster or higher speed corner exit.

First and most important is driving consistency if you're hitting other cars, wall etc then work on that first. on a race that is clean I can easily gain or loose 5-7 or more laps depending on how clean I keep it. I can usually make it though the 8 minute race with no mess ups and when I do it really shows in the lap counts.

Hope this helps you out.

mini-cam
2015.08.06, 04:10 PM
Thanks! That the info I was looking for. I am close on that set-up but I will try some of your changes. I am going to try and get our club (PDXMiniZ) in on the HFAY series next year. For now I am going to play in the time trial area. :cool:

Mike Keely
2015.08.06, 06:37 PM
Good run in the CW direction. I knew that I blew it. I was on a good run but at half way I started hitting everything. I am really surprised to be sitting at the top in the CCW direction. That was a nightmare!!!:eek::eek:

briankstan
2015.08.07, 08:10 AM
Thanks! That the info I was looking for. I am close on that set-up but I will try some of your changes. I am going to try and get our club (PDXMiniZ) in on the HFAY series next year. For now I am going to play in the time trial area. :cool:

be sure and send submit them to the site so you can see your progression.

let me know if you have any question on any of that info.

briankstan
2015.08.07, 08:15 AM
Good run in the CW direction. I knew that I blew it. I was on a good run but at half way I started hitting everything. I am really surprised to be sitting at the top in the CCW direction. That was a nightmare!!!:eek::eek:

thanks, that night was a bit of good and bad for me. I started off the night really good, but as the night went on I just couldn't seem to concentrate and started hitting everything in sight. Lap counts really suffered, and especially showed in my counter clockwise direction. My brushless car just needed new tires I should have changed them out before the night began.