View Full Version : Byebye's Atomic AMR

2015.08.25, 08:58 PM
Decided to pull the trigger on the Atomic AMZ 2WD aka Atomic AMR (http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?productid=23171&cat=0&page=1&featured)-

First impressions are good though when you get the RTR as I did you don't get a battery or body or wheels for said body. As you can see in the video(link below) I wasted no time mounting up to a body. In this case it was the Super GT Nissan GTR. I painted this body white as sort of a test car.

The tires that come with the chassis out the box are pretty sticky for RCP. They are probably a 10-15 degree and a medium width tire. They were the same on all four corners.

It didn't take long to realize like any other chassis you have to run the right tires for the surface. I went ahead and pulled the wheels and mounted up +2.5 wide rear/PN parad 5deg and +3 wide fronts with Kyosho 30deg narrow. No tape, no glue.


Again it ran fairly well but I didn't plan out my initial purchase very well. I did not have a lipo battery charger so my initial run was on a lipo fresh from the package. I was unsure of the charger to buy so I waited until race day to ask the guys in the club. Luckily Jeremy hooked my up with this charger-
Prophet Sport Lip
This one charged my 300mah two-cell lip in 30min. I haven't timed it from start to finish but I'm guessing around 10-15 min. of run time.

I bought a couple of these off ebay-

Here is a video of Joey D running it around for his first time. His initial impression was fair all around though he didn't like the slight delay in the steering. I think we are all just used to the speed of the mini=Z.

Arch2b picked up a Sports Series as a club demo/loaner so I gave it go along side the AMR.

More to follow

2015.08.25, 08:58 PM
After running it quite a bit out the box I decided to put some attention into the suspension of the car to get the bounce out. I started by taking the shocks apart ont he front and adding some heavy friciton grease that came with an IAS kit

Here is a close up full of gunk lol! But it really made a difference. The dapening effect is there beyond the springs.

And the rear. I had grease but it needs to be much softer so I removed it. It does need the spacers though unless you go really low. I can adjust rear camber which was also pretty high but I have yet to find a way to guage. More work to do there.

I think another cause of the chatter is the toe-in. This picture is not exagerated. Well at least it seems to be in my opinoin but I have no way to adjust this part. The rear is fixed where the front is adjustastable. Atomic has a toe-in kit but not sure how that would help. Sometimes at this scale the most exagerated things can make or break a good setup.

Height is adjustable turning the screw in the center of the photo. I was able to preload the suspension a bit but it also affects ride height and travel obviously so I usually try to adjust that with spring stiffness. Right now only the DWS springs fit from my testing.

2015.08.25, 08:58 PM
Part of this journey was to go back to my roots and honor the forum and the shop after all the years for there support. A few of us have been around over a decade and they have been kind to us.
I've never purchased the R8 or ran it regularly. It was a little awkward for me coming from a mclaren or mosler or GT one. I've since adopted this and the 599 with great success.

Painting has never been a strong suite simply because I'm impatient!:p

Weighing in at...

2015.08.25, 08:59 PM
I had a chance to bring the show to the guys at Remnant and they were pretty impressed with it in it's stockis form. One question that was asked is wether or not you can drop an ilap transponder in-
You just need to modify the 4 pin connector to fit the three pin port. Easy enough since the transponder is just looking for power.

Next to one of the guys AMZ 4wd-

I didn't get these weights while at the club. So I can't compare to the AWd. However I can tell you the AMR is significantly lighter than an MR-03

2015.09.09, 06:20 AM
Subscribed :)

2015.09.09, 09:10 PM
I'm going to bring this to the club racing this weekend for a run with the group. I had it last time but didn't have any work done to it. I hope to have an order show up on my door step so I can detail the process of adding a gogolap for further adjustability.

2015.09.10, 04:28 PM
I do not think that the rear toe in is causing your chatter. Rear Toe in is good and plants the car, you really need to have some sort of dampning in the rear. Try 10k silicon oil or some of the Jade DG grease. Should sort out the handling. Also yo may need to add weight. That is insanely light so 10-15g towards the rear would only make it better.;)

2015.09.10, 05:39 PM
I do not think that the rear toe in is causing your chatter. Rear Toe in is good and plants the car, you really need to have some sort of dampning in the rear. Try 10k silicon oil or some of the Jade DG grease. Should sort out the handling. Also yo may need to add weight. That is insanely light so 10-15g towards the rear would only make it better.;)

Thanks for the advice D. I did try the grease in the rear but again I think I needed a difference in dampening from front to rear. YES it's insanely light. I added 20 grams with four nickles and it helped a bit.

I wasn't sure about the toe-in. I know some really like it but I can't adjust it to know otherwise. I did see a slight difference when I took some camber out so I may put a turn or two back in.

2015.09.10, 07:24 PM
Yea that atomic grease is way to thick for the rear, do you have any chapstick or lip balm? that is about the right consictency if you don't have any other greases. Also do they give a reference point for camber in the manual. More rear camber should give you more mid corner traction so I think you are going in the right direction. Maybe go softer on the rear springs? Looks like the car already pushes in the video so softer rear springs could help with rotation (car is not going to turn any faster but I have found that going softer allows more mid turn steering).

Like the camber rear toe in is going to give more rear traction during the middle and exit of the turn but is less efficient in a straight line. It is possible however that because of the large difference between the inside and outside rear wheels turning radius the the tires are scrubbing too much and thus hopping. Maybe a posibility?

You could also play with your rear roll center (add shims to the rear hubs underneath the camber link). Adding shims on the rear knuckle will lower you roll center and should make the rear softer and roll more thus helping with the hop. However roll center can be tricky so playing around with it may take you a little while to find the sweet spot. There is a possibiity that it is to aggresive, when the links are angled up too much the car can get unpredictable as you are also increasing camber gain so your contact patch could possibly be shrinking with too much roll and camber change. If lower the roll center in the rear makes it worse raise it and the rear should be a little less reactive and smoother.

Also i didn't realize this until going over the pics againg, try standing up the rear shocks more. If that doesn't make a difference with the rear hop than I don't know what will.

Also is there any way to fit a larger lipo? I know with the 5000kv motor 300MAH is more than enough but for higher power brushed motors do you think 300mah would be enough for 6-8 min?