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zuggzugg
2015.12.17, 10:56 PM
Hi guys! I'm just getting into the hobby and am very interested in getting myself a mini-z! I picked up a Losi SCTE as my first micro and found a 2nd hand RCP Track all this week! After reading up on the mini-z I have a question. Has anyone had any experience with the new MR-03S2 (Sport 2) cars that have come out? I read that the Sport series isn't that well received due to the different electronics, having to reset it, etc.

In the description of the Sport 2 models it specifically mentions upgraded electronics. I had a nice talk with the guy I bought the RCP track from yesterday. He shared what he knew about the Sport series as well as the experience of the club he was in. Told me about having to reset it and the process for that and just the other quirks with it. Special tx and such. He did not recommend the first gen sport but had no knowledge of the new generation version 2.

It's just by chance that the car I like the most happens to be of this model. I know that I can get the body separate but I'm not looking to spend a ton on the car all once(famous last words). Upgrades, Decent radio, etc.

This is the car I like. The body and price.
http://www kenonhobby com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-MR03S2-MINI-Z-McLaren-12C-GT3-2013-Ready-Set-Matte-Black_p_45713.html

I did see that they have the 50th anniversary edition with some of the standard base upgrades that seem to be the most common as well as the inclusion of the gyro. I am worried about the car being brushless though as I'm just going to be playing with it in the apartment and at work. I read that brushless is almost "too fast" so I wonder if that would be wasted on that car or if the amount of upgrades it has is still worth it over all? I did buy a wide L and wide oval from him so I have tons of track and I could potentially set it up at work. Overall I don't see tons of straight track in my future.

For my losi scte I do want to get some of those same base upgrades like hte mini-z. Bearings, etc. So the idea of a mini-z that has all that stuff does is indeed good. Just having to buy a new tx and that mcclaren body I like will add up to considerably more than just buying the car in the link above. The next level of entry level. :)

TLDR: Anyone have any experience with the new Sport 2 series? I read that there is another tx that can used on the Sport. Sport 2 as well? Worth it to get 50th anniversary edition or the new version coming out in Jan instead of S2? I'm not going to be a hardcore racer but I do like the car to be fast and fun, which I think the stock MR-03S2 would be, and cheaper. Pros/Cons?

Thanks!

ilove599xx
2015.12.17, 11:49 PM
I had Sports and now I have a Sports 2

My Sports unit (mother board) was broken within a year. It got range issue that either my IT4 or KT-19 couldn't control it after 5 meters away.

so I bought another Sports 2 unit to install on my old one and it works fine. It can install gyro too.

You can still update your motor in Sports version. I upgraded to MINI-Z MZW301 XSPEED.

I loved my Sports mini-z and never regret to get it even most racers in my club started with 03VE chassis for their first Mini-z

Now I am racing with brushless motor and let my kid to play my Sports 2.

I am a newbie too (just one year). I am not good at either brushed or brushless motors in race but I just followed every others in my club to race VE motor now.

zuggzugg
2015.12.18, 03:14 AM
Thanks for the reply!

So you haven't had any issues yet with the 2nd gen sport? Are they both upgraded or is one still stock? How happy were you with the stock performance? How is the radio on the sport 2? Do you use a different radio?

I'm not in a racing club. I'm just getting into the hobby this week and it will most likely be just me playing with my toys. :) I will have at least 2 micros so that a friend can drive one when he comes by.

I'm really just wondering if the brushless motor would be completely wasted on my Wide L. I don't have much room in my place for more than that although I do have plenty of track! I do like all the other upgrades that come on that anniversary edition and I definitely see the overall value of spending more. I just dont know if i should dive in that deep just yet.

$350+ to get started or $160 and be good to go.

Solo1
2015.12.19, 12:59 PM
I have 2 of the first gen sports and i got myself an early christmas present of a ve pro chassie and an ex6 radio and cant say enough good about them id go brushless if you think youll stay with it. My sports are completely modified and even run a 50 t but i think the new chassie and radio are better

zuggzugg
2015.12.20, 01:48 AM
I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Sport 2 Black McLaren. I think it'll be a good starting point for me. I don't want to have to add the cost of an additional tx and body just yet. I was considering the VE pro or the 50th anniversary edition with the gyro and other upgrades. I think if I end up getting a 2nd car (of course I will haha) I will go for the bigger route. I am also going to build and Micro T. I'd like to have a little bit of variety in my new hobby with some different vehicles. I'd also like to try and work it to where whatever "fancy" tx I decide to go with, that it can possibly control some of my other cars.

I'm still worried that going brushless will be a waste just due to how much track I have room for. I really can only make the Wide L with an additional tile added to the "L bump." Is that enough to see some those brushless speeds? I know my Losi Micro SCTE that I started with last week feels too fast for my track. It's tons of fun but I know I am not pushing the speeds to what it can do other than with some sweet jumps. :)

Solo1
2015.12.20, 07:58 AM
Well thats the thing about the fancy radio you can dial down the speed to what ever suits the track your running. The ex 6 will work the new mhs and asf cars and youll need a fly sky it4 or a kyosho 432 to run the sports cars if you want a better radio for them. The kt19 is ok but has few adjustments. Do yourself a favor if you plan to run the mclaren body and put some epoxy above and below the front body mount it will help stop the body from cracking up to the headlight if you hit something hard.

Mike Keely
2015.12.20, 10:33 AM
I think that the VE car would not be worth it for one wide L. The stock motor that comes with the cars is plenty fast enough for that size track. You will want to upgrade the tires because the stock tires that come on the cars are pretty bad. My suggestion would be PN 5 rear radials and Kyosho 30 slicks in the front. If the car seems like it is always wanting to spin out in the rear you can use some tire tape on the rear tires to stop the tires from rolling over on the outside edge. You will also want to dial down some of the steering to make the care a lot easier to drive.

zuggzugg
2015.12.20, 08:07 PM
I think I'll be good to go for a while to start with this car. Do you know if the sport 2 requires a different tx than the first gen sport does?

I will look into the epoxy thing as well. Hard for me to visualize what you're saying without being able to look at the part you're talking about in hand. The car is set to arrive tomorrow!

Once I drive it for a while I will gauge the level up upgrades I'll want on the next car. I do feel like with all the extras that come on the 50th anniversary edition, like the gyro and bearings, it's probably a better overall value. Plus the ability to dial back the speed as mentioned sounds useful. Factoring in that I would have to drop a lot more coin for that car and the tx that was mentioned.

We have a half court basketball court at work so I could potentially set up my wide L and oval together into a super track there! But as far as day to day driving, it'll just be here in the apartment. I do have space to add an additional tiles length to the "L curve" which gives a slightly shorter straight away than the main one. So that's something. I've been ripping my scte around on it all day and i can't wait to try the mini-z!

Should I pop for some bearings right away for the car? I don't want to buy too many upgrades before I actually learn how to tune it. Something like bearings seems pretty standard tho. Anything else?

What types of motors does the Sport 2 accept if I were wanting to get one?

Should I get the gyro?

Thanks for the info guys! Keep the advice coming if you have it!

DMALMAD
2015.12.20, 08:42 PM
Get tools before upgrades. The phillips screws are a little different than std so they are easy to strip out. I would suggest getting a 1.5mm hex driver with a variety of the hex head screws. If you stay with the phillips screws get the atomic or the kyosho screw driver. You will also want a 4.5 nut wrench for the wheel nuts and also some al wheel nuts as the plastic tend to strip easy. Aside from that a good pair of needle nose pliers, a couple plano boxes for parts, some double sided tape for the tires (absolutely neccessary), a decent battery charger and some batteries (also vital, I would look for a Maha powerex charger), bearings, CA (get some medium or thick CA it is better than store bought superglue), and if you want to change motors and brushes a soldering iron and silver solder will go a long way (don't need anything fancy, just a small soldering iron that plugs into the wall ac outlet).

From there if you start upgrading you will want more tools but if you are just messing around with it stock I wouldn't worry about it. Also the front clip is on the inside front of the body where the plastic clip extending from the front of the chassis connects with the body. I would go one step further and get some thin plastic and CA it around the mounting point as I have seen plenty of Autoscale bodies smashed into pieces around that area.

Furthermore a dremel is your best friend, if you want to spring for the namebrand go for it or you can pick up a copy from harbor freight for 1/4th the price with all the atatchments you need (get safety goggles too for just in case).

Best place to get stuff on the internet would be Kenon Hobbies (PN Racing website) or this site right here. But I would recommend you LHS first if you have one nearby. Whats your location? Maybe someone knows of a Hobbyshop near you.

DMALMAD
2015.12.20, 08:51 PM
Also do not waste your money on the VE or the gyro or anything else. When you want to upgrade go to bang good and buy their clone asf board (brushed) for 35$ and an ASF compatible radio. Stay brushed as the brushless is garbage and the 50th anniversary is just a gimmick to suck more money from your pocket. If you plan on upgrading stick with PN parts as they are the leading aftermarket company.

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40446

mleemor60
2015.12.21, 10:41 AM
The most important thing for you to know is that the comments offered are merely the personal opinions of the person posting them. Though helpful in some cases they are opinions none the less and should be treated as such. Your geographic location will have more bearing on the company you order from than the part itself. If you are in the USA then the company that services all of the aftermarket manufacturers is our host. Tiny RC. If you are in Asia you will likely be dealing with Atomic or X Power. In Europe my guess would be TRP. PN parts can be found Worldwide and are of very good quality. Speed of shipping and economics will be a determining factor as it is for all of us.

zuggzugg
2015.12.21, 11:22 AM
Thanks guys!

Yea, tools are definitely something I'm already looking into. I'm already into miniature painting/wargaming so I already have a lot of small modeling tools. Dremel, soldering iron, tweezers, needle nose, etc. I'm in Chicago. I went to the closest rc shop near me and they don't stock any micro stuff. They told me it's all dead out here. Used to be a spot but I guess it all went away.

Is that Mini-z tool kit worth getting? Or one of the knockoff versions of it? Saw one for about 20ish bucks like this one?
http://www amazon com/Yeah-Racing-Kyosho-Mini-Z-YT-0136/dp/B00RWWXXTE (http://www. mazon. om/Yeah-Racing-Kyosho-Mini-Z-YT-0136/dp/B00RWWXXTE)
Is there a set of hex head screw replacements or should I just replace them as necessary?

How about a charger like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Powerex-Maha-MH-C801D-Eight-Charger/dp/B003OU51LG (http://www amazon com/Powerex-Maha-MH-C801D-Eight-Charger/dp/B003OU51LG)

I'm looking at some batteries as well. How many sets of batteries do you guys recommend having for casual use? I'd like to not have to wait a long time in between charging. How fast do these chargers take to charge and how long do the batteries run on avg? Is there a danger to run the car for extended lengths? like 2-3 battery swaps?

My car arrives today so I'll take a look at the front area. What type of plastic are you talking about gluing into the body? Is that just to stabilize the slot that the chassis plugs into there? I'll have to pick up some of that glue. I have no shortage of regular super glue but this is the first I'm learning of that CA glue. Is it just a thicker super glue, like an epoxy?

What type of double sided tape do I need for the tires and should I use it on the stock tires or wait until I upgrade them?

I'll just pick up the maintenance necessities. I have already ordered a few upgrades for the Losi Micro I just got as well. Bearings and a replacement steering piece that has already broken and aluminum lock lucks. Looks like the mini-z use the same size lock nuts? 2mm? I'll order up some of those and maybe some bearings.

...and so it begins!

DMALMAD
2015.12.21, 11:31 AM
That tool kit and charger were exactly what I was talking about. As for batteries if you look around you should be able to buy some in bulk, you don't need the best racing cells. I think Gens Ace sells some for a decent price and I think duratrax too (not so sure though).

As for the tape any double sided tape should work as long as it is pretty thin. There is specific stuff cut to the right width but it is cheaper to buy a large roll and cut as you see fit. For the tires you should also consider getting new ones pretty soon as the stockers are super hard (I use them to clean my tire truer and pick up the remnants of the soft tire bits remaining). They are good for concrete though so I would hang on to them. when we race with tires we true them and replace them frequently but usually with stock power it is easier to just mount them and run. PN and Marka make pretty good tires but I think that when the car is stock the Kyosho tires will suit it better. Kyosho 20 radials read and 30 slick fronts would be a good starting point. If you find the car flipping I would CA the outside edge of the front tires.

For the CA, it just seems to hold up better and take longer to cure than super glue, which makes it easier to position things while the glue is being applied. For the plastic if you have just some thin strips (maybe 2-3mm thick) that aren't too flexible that should be fine. Honestly You could forget about the plastic and only think about adding it once the body begins to crack.

Also charge time is usually about an hour to 45 min because the chargers charge at 1 amp and the batteries are 750-1000 mah.

DMALMAD
2015.12.21, 11:54 AM
This thread should be very useful to you (basicly a beginners guide to racing mini-z): http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39955

zuggzugg
2015.12.21, 02:02 PM
Very informative! I will pick up that tool kit. I have some generic rechargeable AAA/AAs right now with two chargers that charge 4 batteries at at a time. That should be decent for the the time being until I can upgrade them.

I can find some generic double side tape as well.

Do these look like legit tool sets? My losi micro came with one of those Cross wrenches already.
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/c7kAAOSwVL1WBeB-/s-l1600.jpg

or

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~LQAAOSwe-FU5m7k/s-l500.jpg

I can't find the other one in stock anywhere.

So these tires you recommended should be good to use on my rcp track? I don't think I'll be driving it on anything other than the track and hard wood floor.

Do I want "wide" tires? What softness/firmness?

These on the rear? wide?
http://www kenonhobby com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-Racing-Radial-Wide-Tire-20-deg-4pcs_p_41768.html

These on the front?
http://www kenonhobby com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-F1-High-Grip-Front-Slick-Tire-30-Degree_p_44424.html (http://www. enonhobby. om/Kyosho-Mini-Z-F1-High-Grip-Front-Slick-Tire-30-Degree_p_44424.html)

Are you talking about putting CA glue on the actual tires? Got a vid or diagram? Kind of lost me on the application of this.

Thanks! I'm constantly checking tracking updates on my package! Once it shows up I'm taking it to our indoor basketball court here at work!

New tires and tape, tool set, bearings, some CA, and new charger. That should be enough for me to be dangerous, ya? What about greases and lubricants? Do I need to worry about those yet?

DMALMAD
2015.12.21, 03:07 PM
The wide ones are for the rear and the narrow ones for the front, however the second link is for the kyosho mini-z f1 and will not work. The first link is correct for the rear tires. The glue is only if the car flips and then you put it on the sidewall. (the actual side of the rubber that is perpendicular to the contact patch of the tire). Just put the tires on without glue and see what happens then go from there.

zuggzugg
2015.12.23, 12:22 PM
Thanks!

So my car has come and I spent last night driving it around. It's actually not as fast as I thought it would be stock. I think because I started with the brushelss losi micro scte that I was used to how fast that thing is. The mini-z is super awesome tho. Handles way more responsive and nimble compared to the losi of course!

Can I run the car until it dramatically loses speed? The current generic charger I have right now doesn't have any fancy settings so it just shows green/red. I ran the car last night and noticed it slowed down a bit. Ran it for a while longer then put the batteries in the charger. They still lit up green so I don't know how much power was even left or if they are still being charged or are considered charged by the charger already. =/

I know I need to get a charger that will show some information on the batteries but until I can do that, is it ok to run the batteries until they are dead/close to dead?

Solo1
2015.12.23, 03:42 PM
I run duracells down low not quite dead and it hasent seemed to hurt them and thats over the course of a year

cowboysir
2015.12.23, 04:53 PM
I know I need to get a charger that will show some information on the batteries but until I can do that, is it ok to run the batteries until they are dead/close to dead?

Without having a charger that has tracking readouts and a discharger system this is your best treatment of your rechargeable cells you could give them.

zuggzugg
2015.12.23, 10:09 PM
Without having a charger that has tracking readouts and a discharger system this is your best treatment of your rechargeable cells you could give them.

Great!

I'm looking at some additional batteries as well. The ones I have are 850mAh. I see some on ebay that are like 1200-1800? What's up with those?

Is there a sweet spot to look for? Any certain numbers that will give a speed boost? Too high? Too low?

Thanks for all the information guys! I'm getting a lot of great feedback!

DMALMAD
2015.12.23, 11:41 PM
Great!

I'm looking at some additional batteries as well. The ones I have are 850mAh. I see some on ebay that are like 1200-1800? What's up with those?

Is there a sweet spot to look for? Any certain numbers that will give a speed boost? Too high? Too low?

Thanks for all the information guys! I'm getting a lot of great feedback!

700-1000
Despite the labels the cells themselves actually vary a lot but as long as the label is in that range than the batteries should be fine.

Mike Keely
2015.12.24, 07:50 AM
I think that the yellow and blue 750 DuraTrax batteries work best for stock class racing. At this time I have not seen anything that is better then them. One of the lower costing cells also.

ilove599xx
2015.12.25, 12:19 AM
it's true that your location matters. And your interest in racing might matter too.

I have few friends who started to play in same time with me but stopped due to their driving distance to my club. One stopped cos he's very shy to race with everybody.

I think Sports 1 and Sports 2 both are same ratio. But Sports 2 seems to be better quality made.

I personally enjoy race a lot, Mini-z is the cheapest race in the world for me beside video game.

zuggzugg
2015.12.26, 01:42 AM
After running the car for a few days on my track now, I'm noticing it does spin out a little bit. I've been looking to upgrade the tires as suggested. Is there a certain hard/softness that I should look for? soft/medium/hard? As far as tire/double sided tape goes, do I need a wide as well as narrow roll or can I get by with just one roll for both front and back tires?

These were suggested for the rear. I don't know what firmness they are though.
http://www kenonhobby .com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-Racing-Radial-Wide-Tire-20-deg-4pcs_p_41768.html (http://www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-Racing-Radial-Wide-Tire-20-deg-4pcs_p_41768.html)

or maybe these?
http://www kenonhobby com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-KS-Compound-RCP-Radial-Rear-Tire-MEDIUM-2pcs_p_45686.html

What about these for the front?
http://www kenonhobby com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-KS-Compound-RCP-Slick-Front-Tire-SOFT-2pcs_p_45688.html

or medium?
http://www kenonhobby com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-KS-Compound-RCP-Slick-Front-Tire-MEDIUM-2pcs_p_45689.html

I also picked up an AccuPower IQ328 Battery Charger as well as 12 of those duratrax batteries.

Also, is there a decent bearing set to get that isn't 30 bucks? :)

Like this?
http://www kenonhobby com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-2x6x25mm-Shield-Hub-Dry-Ball-Bearing-4pcs_p_44883.html (http://www kenonhobby. om/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-2x6x25mm-Shield-Hub-Dry-Ball-Bearing-4pcs_p_44883.html)

and I'd need this size as well, yea?
http://www. enonhobby com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-3x6x25mm-Shield-Hub-Dry-Ball-Bearing-4pcs_p_44842.html (http://www kenonhobby. om/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-3x6x25mm-Shield-Hub-Dry-Ball-Bearing-4pcs_p_44842.html)

Thanks!

arch2b
2015.12.26, 03:59 PM
Boca (http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-inventory/Radial-Bearings/3875/xx-25320B) offers a very affordable set of bearings.

zuggzugg
2015.12.26, 04:23 PM
Boca (http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-inventory/Radial-Bearings/3875/xx-25320B) offers a very affordable set of bearings.

I guess my question was more specifically which set? I don't know the sizes that I would need. I've watched some bearing replacement/upgrade videos on youtube and it doesn't look hard to do. I just don't know which actual set is a good one to get. I've seen a bunch of different miniz mr03 bearing sets but so many come with different amounts of bearings. Are those extra or am I missing something?

Which ones from boca are a good buy?

Thanks!

arch2b
2015.12.26, 04:34 PM
the link goes right to a mini-z set ;)

opinions vary on bearings as much as they do on most else, a decent set that are cleaned and care for should be more than sufficient unless your in the top mains fighting for that extra 10th of a second, in which case, they tend to run slightly more expensive bearings. no need at all to spend the money for Kyosho bearings, ceramics, etc. unless your are already squeezing everything out of the cars potential and need that little something extra. again, like batteries, cost goes from very affordable to obscene. be wise with both your money and purchases :p

Mike Keely
2015.12.26, 05:42 PM
This is the front tire I am running now
PN Racing Mini-Z KS Compound RCP Slick Front Tire FIRM
Part Number KS1042

This is the rear tire
PN Racing Mini-Z KS Compound RCP Radial Rear Tire SOFT (2pcs)

Part Number KS2824

The bearing set
PN Racing Mini-Z 2WD Shield Hub Dry Ball Bearing Set (7pcs)

Part Number 600129

tire tape
PN Racing Mini-Z V2 Strong Tire Tape - Wide
Part Number 700506A

zuggzugg
2015.12.27, 01:15 PM
This is the front tire I am running now
PN Racing Mini-Z KS Compound RCP Slick Front Tire FIRM
Part Number KS1042

This is the rear tire
PN Racing Mini-Z KS Compound RCP Radial Rear Tire SOFT (2pcs)

Part Number KS2824

The bearing set
PN Racing Mini-Z 2WD Shield Hub Dry Ball Bearing Set (7pcs)

Part Number 600129

tire tape
PN Racing Mini-Z V2 Strong Tire Tape - Wide
Part Number 700506A

Awesome, thanks!

So I just ordered that bearings set from boca. Going to scoop up the tires and tape now. How would you rate the tires you're using vs the other recommended ones from kyosho?

Firm tires up front and soft ones in back? I noticed I get the spinning out on my track at high speeds and the car is prettymuch undriveable on the hardwood. One I start to accelerate enough it just spins. Will the tires do anything for me on the hardwood or just for my track grip?

Thanks!

Mike Keely
2015.12.27, 06:50 PM
I would say that they are way better then the Kyosho tires. The 30 fronts from Kyosho are not bad. I still use them from time to time when I need a little less steering depending on the track condition.

Not sure about running on a hardwood floor. I only run my cars on the track.

zuggzugg
2016.01.03, 05:00 PM
Thanks guys! I got the tires, tape, and bearings in. I didn't tape the rear tires yet tho. Definitely getting much better traction on my track and floor!

Is there any special method to taping them?

KWT
2016.01.07, 09:04 PM
Apply tape to the wheel, just one layer with no overlap. Pull tire over wheel and adjust until it's even. Then press down on tire to wheel.