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View Full Version : New MA020s AWD - dog bone POPPED OUT


ajgiov
2016.02.04, 10:07 PM
So this thing is brand new and the dog bone on the front right kept partially popping out one side when drifting on a hardwood floor when giving hard steering angles and more then 1/2 throttle.

The 4th time this happened in 30 minutes the thing popped out completely onto the floor.

Is this normal? Do I really need to buy aftermarket universals day one to drive this thing as intended and stock?

byebye
2016.02.05, 11:08 AM
At a minimum, alloy swing shafts and hard diff joints.

Kris

ajgiov
2016.02.05, 12:56 PM
At a minimum, alloy swing shafts and hard diff joints.

Kris



ok thanks. I see mention of an atomic titanium set but cannot
find the item for sale anymore. what's my best option. home rcp track with my son. no serious racing. I just want the thing to stay together as a 2 day old brand new product...

Minizorro
2016.02.05, 01:15 PM
Any universal is fine. Ground zero probably best as lighter and well priced. Crappy 3racing will do fine too with added benefit of being metal and not alu so no risk to break the thread if over tightening the wheel nut. With alu you have to be more careful. Awd and buggy should come with universal as standard dog bones will always pop out when steering, useless!
I think- I might be wrong- only PN and ground zero make universal wides. So if your setup is wide you have to get wide ones. Old ones are narrow.

ajgiov
2016.02.06, 09:15 AM
I ordered the ground zero universals from the Far East to pair with the Kyosho 1 way front differential I have on order from a domestic vendor.

Wise choice or hasty error?

Minizorro
2016.02.06, 05:43 PM
Just make sure you tighten the wheel nut very very carefully if you use metal wheel nuts.
Quite easy to ruin the aluminium thread when using harder metal wheel nuts, or to snap the threaded bit.

I tried a one way diff from 3Racing and it was absolute rubbish, kyosho diffs are normally smooth and built to hight quality standards so it should be ok. One way front is good for drifting as it allows front wheels to spin freely while you break with the rear wheels, so if you are into drifting then it's a good choice.
For normal use or non-drifting racing the one way front is not really the ideal choice.

Plastic standard diffs (maybe with some grease to stiffen them a bit) are fine too, but are not too reliable especially when powerful motors are used. But unless you are racing seriously - when you really don't want to risk a diff breaking mid race, the standard diffs are good. The Atomic ball diff with plastic housing are considered a good choice, but you need the ones with thrust bearing installed or buy the thrust bearing separately, without the diffs are not smooth enough.

ajgiov
2016.02.08, 02:00 PM
Thanks Minizorro.

I will take your advice on how to/not to tighten the wheel nut.

Yes this is for drifting so I am glad you confirm that the one way front is good for drifting.

Reason for the universals and hard cup front diff is that my current stock plastic dogbone (passenger side) keeps popping out and its highly annoying. :mad:

littlebuddha
2016.11.29, 04:17 PM
I had similar issues with my stock ma020ve and ma020s while drifting on a wood floor. I ended up reducing the steering angle a little but the car soon developed a slight binding where the diffs would not freely spin. I replaced the driveshafts but the issue persisted. I found that it was a result of the outdrives being slightly deformed which rubbed against the little plastic tab on the chassis - I don't know why kyosho designed it with so little space. I would recommend just replacing the diff with the hardened diffs from the mini z buggy - they are relatively cheap, have metal gears inside and hardened outdrives. So far it has worked great with no problems so far.