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J-Milz
2016.04.07, 04:54 PM
The new Atomic BZ looks great. I pre ordered mine already.
http://youtu.be/ndbeob2qDiM

Minizorro
2016.04.08, 07:07 AM
Belt driven 4wd brushless lipo, that is going to be fast!

arch2b
2016.04.08, 07:49 AM
links:
Atomic's main wepage (http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=47_324)

Instruction manual (http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/egr_manual/BZ-v1.pdf)

you can of course find it on their social media page as well.

Wheelbase options:
90mm, 94mm, 98mm

sadly, does not appear to support 102mm :(

updated the site to include this chassis and moved this thread appropriately.

Thorvald
2016.04.08, 08:03 AM
Anyone make a small enough Rx that is compatible with ASF/MHS? Doesn't look like Atomic's is. They do offer the car with a small ESC but then you still need to find a small enough Rx.

Guess could stick in a micro Spektrum or something.

arch2b
2016.04.08, 08:37 AM
the whole frequency issue is what has kept me from dipping my feet in the pool so to speak. i do not want to support multiple systems nor the expense of a higher end radio to support multiple systems. That and a servo that matches the speed, re-centering ability and responsiveness of the stock servo.

gctkaz
2016.04.08, 10:21 AM
Anyone make a small enough Rx that is compatible with ASF/MHS? Doesn't look like Atomic's is. They do offer the car with a small ESC but then you still need to find a small enough Rx.

Guess could stick in a micro Spektrum or something.

Clone of Gogolap receiver: http://mini-zracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40446
I have one running in an Atomic AMZ, works great.

The servo is still a problem, for all the shortfalls arch2b has pointed out. Supposedly the digital MG servo is the answer, but I'm not paying $35 for that :mad: Probably have some better options if using the floating servo mount, but I missed the boat on that, sold out at EGR Mart before I even found out about it.

J-Milz
2016.04.08, 10:54 AM
I got an email from EGR mart stating my BZ has shipped. IM EXCITED TO GET BACK INTO MINI! I also ordered a Savox servo for $25. Hope it all goes well.
http://www.savoxusa com/Savox_SH0262MG_Micro_Digital_Servo_p/savsh0262mg.htm

Thorvald
2016.04.08, 10:19 PM
Let us know how it goes and how you set it up.

Cheers
Tim

doug01n
2016.04.11, 01:42 PM
I have a 2WD AMR with savox 261 servo.... And it runs great. I'm on the pre order list with a shipped BZ with Metal ESC. There is a small RX ASF unit available at EGR Racing for U$19.

Pretty excited with this one!

Mrs Mini-Z
2016.04.25, 12:40 PM
Hi! Just wanted to let you all know the BZ (and parts) has landed in the shop (http://shop.tinyrc.com/home.php?cat=585) and is ready to ship!
Thanks!
Meridith :)

J-Milz
2016.05.01, 02:58 PM
So my preorder finally arrived from egrmart. While I was assembling it (wish I had smaller hands) I noticed that I was missing an aluminum 2.5 upper bulk. There were (3) 0 degree upper bulks and (1) 2.5. I really dont want to have to ship the car all the way back to Hong Kong. Any suggestions?

KWT
2016.05.01, 08:48 PM
Contact them and see if they can send you the correct part.

DMALMAD
2016.05.04, 10:50 PM
Been out of touch with the newest and greatest next best thing for Mini-Z recently but I am trying to get back into the swing of things and this caught my eye... anyone have anything decent to say about it? For the price it looks promising.. a lot better than the $600 paper weight with the x-power logo I have sitting in my pit box. Anyways I am probably gonna order one and see how it goes.

mleemor60
2016.05.05, 07:36 AM
Had the opportunity to see one in action this past weekend. Impressive, really good quality as you might expect from Atomic. Once the silicone based Atomic tires were discarded and a set of Kyosho rubber installed it was devastatingly fast on a too wide open RCP circuit in the hands of a highly skilled larger scale Touring car pilot. Car equipped with 7.4 Lipo and 5500 VE motor is a good package as a support class or open mod competition class in conjunction with Mini-Z's. I wouldn't blend the two together for regular racing. At full power it was easily 3 seconds per lap quicker, once the throttle was set back to 30% it becomes just slightly better than a well tuned legal 70T on a properly set up 03 chassis. Will they catch on? Possibly. Just don't see a future for another overpowered dart without feathers that has to be detuned 70% to not have an overwhelming advantage over a Mini-Z. Can't see why anyone would want to invest in one for that purpose.

Should the hobby embrace all these offerings from various manufacturer's? Absolutely. They possess the hook for the larger scale guys that incorrectly believe that a Mini-Z is a toy. Wherever possible local clubs should set up a class that keeps everything with a non Kyosho part numbered chassis in a separate class. To do anything else creates the impression that one of these exotics is a must have in order to enter the hobby. However, in a support role they have the opportunity to gain acceptance and perhaps even growth as newer entries to the hobby become more comfortable with the basics and choose to progress to the much faster chassis designs as opposed to feeling that they must just to get in the door..

DMALMAD
2016.05.05, 11:59 AM
Had the opportunity to see one in action this past weekend. Impressive, really good quality as you might expect from Atomic. Once the silicone based Atomic tires were discarded and a set of Kyosho rubber installed it was devastatingly fast on a too wide open RCP circuit in the hands of a highly skilled larger scale Touring car pilot. Car equipped with 7.4 Lipo and 5500 VE motor is a good package as a support class or open mod competition class in conjunction with Mini-Z's. I wouldn't blend the two together for regular racing. At full power it was easily 3 seconds per lap quicker, once the throttle was set back to 30% it becomes just slightly better than a well tuned legal 70T on a properly set up 03 chassis. Will they catch on? Possibly. Just don't see a future for another overpowered dart without feathers that has to be detuned 70% to not have an overwhelming advantage over a Mini-Z. Can't see why anyone would want to invest in one for that purpose.

Should the hobby embrace all these offerings from various manufacturer's? Absolutely. They possess the hook for the larger scale guys that incorrectly believe that a Mini-Z is a toy. Wherever possible local clubs should set up a class that keeps everything with a non Kyosho part numbered chassis in a separate class. To do anything else creates the impression that one of these exotics is a must have in order to enter the hobby. However, in a support role they have the opportunity to gain acceptance and perhaps even growth as newer entries to the hobby become more comfortable with the basics and choose to progress to the much faster chassis designs as opposed to feeling that they must just to get in the door..

Thanks for the response, that was exactly what I was looking to hear. I think this is a fun project or side car that is available at a reasonable price. Odviously 4wd is not going to blow away the 2wd but it looks much better quality than the plastic amz and definetly something good to show 10th scale guys who were too afraid of the x-power price tag.

herman
2016.05.06, 06:22 AM
where's the like and share button? oopps...

DMALMAD
2016.05.08, 09:50 PM
Anyone have any pictures? Mine should be here in the middle of the week and most likely it will be built the same day I get it in so I will be posting my initial impression of the build when that happens. Hopefully it isn't disastrously slower than the 2wd like the x-power and the original amz but I think that if it is within three tenths a lap slower it will be fine. I mean look at the larger scales, the 4wd classes are much slower than pan car but it is the 2wd class that is hurting the most. Honestly, I am more excited about this car, for the price, than any other mini car released recently. Despite this I am going into this expecting it not to work out. Not that I am that cynical but if past experiences have meant anything this car is going to be slow and a pain to setup, but hey thats half the fun:p

DMALMAD
2016.05.13, 08:23 AM
Finished the build minus the servo. Electronics went in fine and it seems that the belt system provides just the right amount of drag brake while still being free. I am probably going to try and used the Mclaren body first but I have to use my narrower, higher cg batteries to fit it. I want to go with a 500mah battery because running mod power with a 360 battery just will not cut it. Anyways I will see how it goes, I might just throw in any old servo for saturday and see how it works out but the spur gear assembly is still giving me a hard time because it is still sloppy and now, even when I tighten it to the point where it binds a little, it still loosens itself. I am probably going to have to locktite it into place.

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/20160513_001955_zps5ji5bhtl.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/20160513_002001_zpsdpobciwa.jpg
http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q796/DMALMAD/20160513_002008_zpscgpbwhvw.jpg

8Baller
2016.05.21, 01:11 PM
What spring and shock grease, are you guys running on rcp?

DMALMAD
2016.06.01, 10:14 PM
I got my car working pretty well and I thought that I would share my setup and a couple videos I took of it running. For camber I am using the 2 degree arms in the front and the stock arms in the back. I am using the orange stiffest springs in the option spring set in the back and in the front I am using the stock springs. I am running the McClaren body and one really important thing I learned is that you have to run the front diff really loose so that the car rotates really well. Lastly I am using Marka v1 10 degree tires in the rear and kyosho 30 radials in the front.
https://youtu.be/HlfyY1VyZg8
https://youtu.be/8LFEZOZFDA0
https://youtu.be/FJScQy_yQLY

tommy_greeneyes
2016.06.02, 10:19 PM
Thanks for sharing Devon. Looks like you got the car running pretty fast I like.

DMALMAD
2016.06.11, 10:37 PM
Hey guys so I am now sponsored by Atomic and I thought I would post here to let you guys know that I will be spending a lot of time in the coming weeks testing setups and different option parts for the BZ chassis. I will be checking this thread regularly to post setups and to provide help where it is needed so if anyone has any questions I will do my best to provide help and answers. Also in case you didn't know at Maj's hobby shop on June 25th there will be a big race which, among other popular classes, will have an open 4wd class. If you guys can make it out there I will be at the race providing setup help and support for drivers using Atomic chassis and parts! :D:D:D

arch2b
2016.06.12, 11:05 AM
Congrats :D

DMALMAD
2016.06.12, 11:58 PM
Congrats :D
Thanks! I am going to hit the track tomorrow and hopefully end up faster with the 4wd than the 2wd.

DMALMAD
2016.06.14, 06:07 PM
Got to the track today and set my personal best lap times all time on this layout with the Atomic BZ! With the mrx 2wd lipo chassis I was able to hit 7.6 lap times every now and then but with the BZ 4wd chassis I am able to get 7.5 and 7.6 or 7.7 every lap. So its official, the 4wd chassis is finally faster than the 2wd chassis on rough rcp and it is also more consistent!:D

Setup: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-G5bVn1DKexUy1WVWxISFJIRGs/view?usp=sharing

EDIT: Sorry link was not working, now it is.

DMALMAD
2016.06.14, 08:02 PM
Video of it running at Maj's Hobby Shop setting new track records... after the video it got down to 7.3 :eek::eek::eek:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyR6t_USkZ4

doug01n
2016.06.15, 02:04 PM
Good to know that we have a top driver sponsored in America.

Thanks for sharing the setup. Can you post this empty setup sheet?

Mine is almost there....

https://k6xmyg-bn1305.files.1drv.com/y3mdAbpiAyWUhggypWDRsjuZ3fRDTntJUxCeA4Q1HOLny8n6Sq hxo9I0QWhFhzoyX-ZYV9TAo50YYj84lIsgjCWWGNjNWBMjJjTX0O--0FNosotsSjtzzDcXX7LoWyvUBPt5XK2oAEFsGEpsjXJzqz9mpW 1ncNybf-6sPcmu02zlrY/IMG-20160615-WA0022.jpg?psid=1

DMALMAD
2016.06.15, 07:36 PM
Looking good! The only thing that I would suggest is to reinforce you front clip using a strong piece of plastic because otherwise you will crack it on a strong hit.

As for the setup sheet I did some digging on my computer and I could not find the blank one. You can download it from the atomic FB page though because I remember that is where I found it to begin with.

lithium
2016.06.16, 06:41 AM
hi, you must return the track, the smooth side is much more effective, also for 2wd

doug01n
2016.06.16, 07:51 AM
We are racing smooth side here in Brazil too.
I have tested both and there's tons of grip on smooth side.

Do you add any weight to the chassis? I have traction rolling problem with my AMR all the time. Will try my BZ with 5000KV motor and Audi R8 body soon.

DMALMAD
2016.06.16, 01:22 PM
hi, you must return the track, the smooth side is much more effective, also for 2wd

I would love to try it but the surface is not my decision. I just race on what is available at my local track. However there is another club racing on the smooth side a couple hours from me and the next time they race I will go and do some testing.

DMALMAD
2016.06.16, 01:35 PM
We are racing smooth side here in Brazil too.
I have tested both and there's tons of grip on smooth side.

Do you add any weight to the chassis? I have traction rolling problem with my AMR all the time. Will try my BZ with 5000KV motor and Audi R8 body soon.

No weight yet. I have experimented with adding weight and for rough side RCP when you add weight to the rear of the chassis it gives more rotation and off power steering but starts to cause flipping.

DMALMAD
2016.06.22, 12:43 AM
Build Video as promised:
https://youtu.be/q__1WBGTV3E

sorry for the poor quality I did not have my computer on hand so this will do until I have a chance to do an HD upload.

Edit:

HD upload: https://youtu.be/Z5bUJzm7wNM

DMALMAD
2016.07.18, 08:17 PM
Atomic BZ playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLqmanszQp-U6oa07bUCRYhRjTUJOXW2Im

Only 5 videos so far, two new ones, and hopefully many more to come. :D

Kikerumbo
2016.07.19, 03:28 PM
Hi!

Can you recommend an Autoscale body for the BZ? I love my Lexus SC430 with my AMZ, but it doesn't fit the BZ since it's wider.

I'm not confortable using the lexan body, since I have too many hits with the walls. Getting used to the new circuit after 2 weeks of work.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/PFlIts.jpg (http://imageshack.com/f/pmPFlItsj)

Thanks!

DMALMAD
2016.07.19, 04:41 PM
Hi!

Can you recommend an Autoscale body for the BZ? I love my Lexus SC430 with my AMZ, but it doesn't fit the BZ since it's wider.

I'm not confortable using the lexan body, since I have too many hits with the walls. Getting used to the new circuit after 2 weeks of work.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/PFlIts.jpg (http://imageshack.com/f/pmPFlItsj)

Thanks!

Lexan bodies provide better protection and they don't break like autoscales so they save money in the long run too... but if you prefer autoscales the Ferrari 458 or the audi seem to work best with the BZ. For the McLaren you have to dremel the sides a little to fit it but that body is my favorite autoscale overall. Also if you are running an autoscale make sure you either reinforce the front body clip or use the aluminum front clip so that you don't have your body fall off because your clip broke. Also the adjustable aluminum side body holders are a really good option, they get rid of all the guess work when it comes to getting the right body clearance and ride height.

Also where are you located, that is an awesome track!

refsiul22
2016.07.20, 01:17 PM
what's the best place to get it, if you're located in the US?

mleemor60
2016.07.20, 04:13 PM
Tiny RC of course.

refsiul22
2016.07.20, 07:59 PM
Tiny RC of course.

Thank you mleemor60

Xovonob
2016.07.22, 05:17 PM
Atomic BZ playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLqmanszQp-U6oa07bUCRYhRjTUJOXW2Im

Only 5 videos so far, two new ones, and hopefully many more to come. :D

Excellent! Thanks for once again helping the community.

I noticed in one of the vids that you are using your EX-6 with this the BZ. What rx are you using to accomplish that?

DMALMAD
2016.07.24, 12:16 AM
Excellent! Thanks for once again helping the community.

I noticed in one of the vids that you are using your EX-6 with this the BZ. What rx are you using to accomplish that?
I am using the gogo lap asf reciever.

Kikerumbo
2016.08.02, 05:41 AM
Hi everyone,

DMALMAD, I'm from Spain (la Coruña). The space we have is not so big, so this way we can have a little more track. It took some hours to do the ramps with the right angle so the cars didn't notice it. Also, using steel wire to hang the main straight was a bit of a pain in the "#~€@" to get the right angles across the 8 meters, but it looks good without any support to the floor and gives us a little more freedom to change the track from below.

What do you think about the belt tensioners? Will them let the belts run looser? I though this car will go smooth and run with a little push like my 1/10 touring without the motor attached, but it doesn't seems too smooth even after cleaning the bearings. Don't get me wrong, it is 1000 times smoother than the AMZ.

Also, do you use shims on the CVDs to remove the play of the wheels? If yes, better on the outside (wheel side) or at the inner bearing?

We are using the smooth side of the RCP track and the grip is great with Marka V1 10º at the rear an Kyosho 30 at the front. Could you tell me what's the biggest offset you can use with lexan and R8 or Ferrari 458 autoscale bodies? I was using +3 on both ends on my AMZ, but the BZ is wider and the wheels touch the bodies...

By the way. Wouldn't it be nice to have aluminium lower bulkheads (to get rid of screws in plastic) and pitch 64 gears?

Excuse me if I'm asking too much.

Thanks!

DMALMAD
2016.08.03, 10:51 AM
Hi everyone,

DMALMAD, I'm from Spain (la Coruña). The space we have is not so big, so this way we can have a little more track. It took some hours to do the ramps with the right angle so the cars didn't notice it. Also, using steel wire to hang the main straight was a bit of a pain in the "#~€@" to get the right angles across the 8 meters, but it looks good without any support to the floor and gives us a little more freedom to change the track from below.

What do you think about the belt tensioners? Will them let the belts run looser? I though this car will go smooth and run with a little push like my 1/10 touring without the motor attached, but it doesn't seems too smooth even after cleaning the bearings. Don't get me wrong, it is 1000 times smoother than the AMZ.

Also, do you use shims on the CVDs to remove the play of the wheels? If yes, better on the outside (wheel side) or at the inner bearing?

We are using the smooth side of the RCP track and the grip is great with Marka V1 10º at the rear an Kyosho 30 at the front. Could you tell me what's the biggest offset you can use with lexan and R8 or Ferrari 458 autoscale bodies? I was using +3 on both ends on my AMZ, but the BZ is wider and the wheels touch the bodies...

By the way. Wouldn't it be nice to have aluminium lower bulkheads (to get rid of screws in plastic) and pitch 64 gears?

Excuse me if I'm asking too much.

Thanks!

with the lexan body the most offset I can fit is 1.5 in the rear and 2 in the front. With Mclaren the best I can fit is 1 in the front and .5 in the rear. With the ferrari it is 1 all around. Currently I use the belt tensioners with one of my chassis but not the other and I only use it in the rear. To remover the axle play put a couple shims on the INSIDE of the knuckle not on the outside as that will change the wheel offset. As for the aluminum bulkheads I know that they had made some prototype ones a while ago but I don't know the status of that or if that worked out. And lastly the BZ comes standard with 64p, You can use the 15 and 16 tooth pinions that come with your kit to get insane gearing for 70t stock class;):p. I hope I answer all your questions and if you need me to elaborate any more I would be happy to help as best I can.

Kikerumbo
2016.08.04, 02:49 AM
Much appreciated.

Can you get the BZ to "cruise" off power? I mean, mine suddenly stops if I'm not applying throttle. I would like it to continue going forward after releasing the throttle, like a MR-03.

With the AMZ was impossible to achieve, at least for the 3 of us using it here.

Thanks.

DMALMAD
2016.08.04, 12:10 PM
Much appreciated.

Can you get the BZ to "cruise" off power? I mean, mine suddenly stops if I'm not applying throttle. I would like it to continue going forward after releasing the throttle, like a MR-03.

With the AMZ was impossible to achieve, at least for the 3 of us using it here.

Thanks.

My BZ rolls plenty when I am not applying power. It shouldn't stop as soon as you let off but it also should slow down faster than a 2wd too. Also the brushless 2wd chassis roll way too much anyways. I would check your belts and make sure that they are not to tight and make sure you check that you shaved your front clip like it says in the instructions otherwise there will be rubbing with the belt.

sleekun
2016.12.07, 01:24 PM
DMALMAD, i'm so glad this thread got started, I've been searching all over for resources about the BZ. I've had mine running for a couple months now but the steering is constantly giving me trouble, it doesn't seem to want to return to center, I have all atomic parts including the metal gear digital servo, metal steering cranks and steering blocks. I've double checked to make sure the steering moves freely without any sticking.

I'm curious if others have seen this issue or have suggestions on what might help.

I only found that extreme, and i mean extreme toe out helps stabilize it a little but it still doesn't fix the issue or make it a truly drive-able car.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

durtbag
2016.12.07, 06:01 PM
DMALMAD, i'm so glad this thread got started, I've been searching all over for resources about the BZ. I've had mine running for a couple months now but the steering is constantly giving me trouble, it doesn't seem to want to return to center, I have all atomic parts including the metal gear digital servo, metal steering cranks and steering blocks. I've double checked to make sure the steering moves freely without any sticking.

I'm curious if others have seen this issue or have suggestions on what might help.

I only found that extreme, and i mean extreme toe out helps stabilize it a little but it still doesn't fix the issue or make it a truly drive-able car.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I had the same issue, the floating servo mount screws, after some time get sloppy and the servo mount will move in both directions. I chased this down and ended up Shoe Gooing the servo to the chassis. Solved the problem.
Terry

sleekun
2016.12.07, 09:22 PM
I had the same issue, the floating servo mount screws, after some time get sloppy and the servo mount will move in both directions. I chased this down and ended up Shoe Gooing the servo to the chassis. Solved the problem.
Terry

thanks, I'll verify the servo doesn't move, at first glance it looks like it has some slop so I'll give that some focus, I also have a new servo to try in case it's a servo issue.
I'll repost after I get some time to mess with it

tudor_47
2016.12.17, 06:33 PM
I also think you're onto something, I have the same issues, and the servo does move although I tighten it down all I dare, I even put threadlock on the screws goin into aluminium.

I got the tip, put on a plastic, not lexan body, it will keep the steering more protected from impacts


I still have to test the BZ using a hard plastic body.

sleekun
2016.12.20, 11:41 PM
update: I had some slop in the steering servo and couldn't find shoe goo, so I used a little hot glue and that appears to have taken care of the centering issue. I'm still struggling with getting it to turn well, I have the adjustable aluminum knuckles and seems to have a little toe out to a lot of toe out not much in between or any toe in without cranking the links way out.
anyone else have a better setup for the steering that gets more steering out of it without a ton of toe out?

DMALMAD
2017.01.01, 11:51 AM
update: I had some slop in the steering servo and couldn't find shoe goo, so I used a little hot glue and that appears to have taken care of the centering issue. I'm still struggling with getting it to turn well, I have the adjustable aluminum knuckles and seems to have a little toe out to a lot of toe out not much in between or any toe in without cranking the links way out.
anyone else have a better setup for the steering that gets more steering out of it without a ton of toe out?

First, I am sorry I haven't been very active on this thread as I have been very busy with school (just finished my first semester of college).

With that out of the way I didn't really like using the aluminum knuckles. If you notice they are the same design for the rear too while the plastic ones have a different design for the front than the rear. I think this is why it is difficult to setup your toe how you would like. I know some people that liked using them but I liked not having to mess with roll centers and everything to get the car to handle right so I always stuck with the plastic and I haven't ever broken one.

Guidok
2017.05.04, 02:39 AM
Hey guys so I am now sponsored by Atomic and I thought I would post here to let you guys know that I will be spending a lot of time in the coming weeks testing setups and different option parts for the BZ chassis.
Is it possible for you to make a list what parts are useful to buy from the rcatomic website (as you're a sponsored driver ;)) when someone wants to get into 1:28 racing with a BZ 2017 evo chassis?

So I mean what tyres are useful/necessary to have (racing on rcp mini-z tracks), what rims (what offset) to use with the lexan body, what springs, shims, what grease for diff and dampeners etc etc.
Like a 'basic kit' that lets you start decently at the local track.
If you're not already into mini-z's it fairly confusing what to pick and what not to pick. I see loads of tyres with and without thread patterns, in different stiffnesses etc, shimming cv axles (what shims to use?) etc.

The electronics part I've figured out pretty much (I'm probably going to use adhfs, not asf, and found a small adhfs rx), but the other hardware is not so clear yet.
Thanks.