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Xovonob
2016.08.14, 07:47 PM
I'm attempting to convert a MR-03 VE Pro from the 98mm wide chassis to an LM chassis (Toyota GT-One). I decided to upgrade while converting, so I purchased a PN LCG V4 motor holder and PN DPS, as well as a PN LM gear diff. I'm doing something wrong or haven't purchased everything I need.

The issue I'm facing is that the alignment on the rear wheels is pretty far off. One wheel is flush with the outside of the body, and the other is inside the body (maybe 3-5mm). The pictures probably show the issue best. Any help / advice is appreciated. It would be especially helpful if someone who has done the conversion with the same equipment could post a pic.

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34956&stc=1&d=1471218259
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34957&stc=1&d=1471218269
http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34958&stc=1&d=1471218280

mleemor60
2016.08.14, 09:32 PM
The LM dif is wider than the dif that you would normally use for that pod. All you need to do to resolve it is to install one of the large diameter hole bushings that come on the stock chassis in place of bearings on each side against the pod. That will center the dif. Now you will can use the wheels that come with the Yota body. However, you will get better results if you pick up Kyosho MZH303BK wheel set and the appropriate LM specific 20 rear and 30 front tire sets. That body works quite well but is a real tank except for the rear wing.

Xovonob
2016.08.14, 10:00 PM
Thanks for the reply.

On the bushings, do you mean the ones that go in the wheel hubs? If so, you're saying to mount one of those on each side of the pod. Is that correct?

herman
2016.08.15, 03:18 AM
based on this guide --->pls click mini-z guide bodies (http://mini-z-guide.com/bodies.htm)

the original rear rims are 1W offset... can't really see if the rims on your chassis are the original rims...

but judging from the pictures you posted, it looks like you have two axle hub locks on the left side (one silver and one red)... actually you only need one of these...

having one on will hopefully solve your problem...

if you don't like the looks of the rim, you can purchase other rims with different offsets and experiment how they look on the body... having the tires and rim inside the body helps protect the axle from damage (bending) when you hit the sidewalls of the track... you really don't want them sticking way out of the body while racing...

i haven't tried this body, but you might want to try a rear wide rim with 1.5 / 2 or 2.5 offset... so long as the tires don't stick out of the body...

hope this helps... :D

mleemor60
2016.08.15, 06:41 AM
Thanks for the reply.

On the bushings, do you mean the ones that go in the wheel hubs? If so, you're saying to mount one of those on each side of the pod. Is that correct?

Use the ones that were in the stock pod. Slide one on the dif shaft then insert through pod. Slide one on the other side then a single hub and finally the wheel.

You will find that the wheels I specified will give the car the best steering balance for competition. They were originally offered on the Sauber Mercedes bodies. If you need more specific info just PM me.

Xovonob
2016.08.15, 07:22 PM
Use the ones that were in the stock pod. Slide one on the dif shaft then insert through pod. Slide one on the other side then a single hub and finally the wheel.

Again, thanks for the reply.

The stock pod on the MR-03 VE Pro doesn't have bushings, only bearings. I grabbed a snip of the manual to illustrate what I mean. Based upon what I believe to be your guidance, I purchased the item labeled MZ6BK. I'll try mounting those in the configuration you recommend and I'll report back with a pic if / when I get that setup.

Cheers!

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34960&stc=1&d=1471303251

mleemor60
2016.08.15, 07:42 PM
Actually if you have the large hole bearings laying around you can use one of them on each side instead of the bushings. They are being used as a spacer only to center the dif. A little heavy and pricey for a spacer but very functional.

herman
2016.08.15, 11:58 PM
Hmm. Is the PN lcg v4 motor pod specifically used for the mr03 diff? I forgot that the LM motor pod is wider, as with the LM diff... If so, my whole suggestion is quite off...

If it is though, you might want to try the standard mr03 diff, and experiment with rim offsets that are longer than 1W probably a 2 or 2.5W rear rim.

Hope this helps.

mleemor60
2016.08.16, 07:59 AM
Yes it is but it does extend to the 102mm wheelbase. You can use a standard dif for LM configuration but you need +3 offset wheels to get the desired track width. it works but is somewhat less effective dynamically than the LM dif with proper offsets.

herman
2016.08.16, 09:20 PM
Ty for the info. Would like to see a picture when it's all fixed. I might have missed it but did PN come out with a specific LM motor mount which you can use with the LM ball diff.?

lfisminiz
2016.08.17, 07:17 PM
Ty for the info. Would like to see a picture when it's all fixed. I might have missed it but did PN come out with a specific LM motor mount which you can use with the LM ball diff.?

Yes, theres a aluminum multi pod and a alum/carbon version.

Blf
2016.08.18, 05:03 AM
I can take a pic tomorrow but have always used the pn reconfigureable MM for my LMs wigh the kyosho lm diff

I use +3 and +1 pn and actually had to sand/shave as bit off the carbon top plate on the MM and the inside of the body to bet some decent suspension travel and still look killer :)

You can always use a couple of diffshaft shims on the side that is tucked in more to push it out a tad to even out the look.

mleemor60
2016.08.18, 07:21 AM
Yes. You can use the highly adjustable, multi wheelbase, Aluminum and CF sooper dooper PN Sledgomatic motor pod or you can just get the job done with the old battle tested, tried and true 98-102 LCG-V4 and not have to even think about under body interference or anything else for that matter. Simplicity at it's finest. Not to mention the $20 plus savings.

Blf
2016.08.18, 10:14 AM
Yes. You can use the highly adjustable, multi wheelbase, Aluminum and CF sooper dooper PN Sledgomatic motor pod or you can just get the job done with the old battle tested, tried and true 98-102 LCG-V4 and not have to even think about under body interference or anything else for that matter. Simplicity at it's finest. Not to mention the $20 plus savings.

Oh so I've been doing all this for no reason ! ? Haha - I do have one of those pods on a mosler but I guess that would solve the problem with underbody clearsnce

mleemor60
2016.08.18, 10:37 AM
There are actually two different PN extended wheelbase pods. One up to 100mm for $48 and the 102 to 106mm for $58. Everybody has their reasons. Mine are functionality, price and the fewest adjustments that lead to something coming loose at the least opportune moment. IE simplicity. I use the 98-102 LCG V4 pod for all my cars except the 102 chassis. For a true LM pod I would use either the Atomic or Kyosho.

Xovonob
2016.08.19, 12:10 AM
Use the ones that were in the stock pod. Slide one on the dif shaft then insert through pod. Slide one on the other side then a single hub and finally the wheel.


This did the trick. Grabbed two bushings from the MZ6BK pack and all was good (shown below). Thanks for the help.

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34961&stc=1&d=1471579750

herman
2016.08.19, 02:07 AM
thanks for the info... and thanks for the pics, looks like you got it all sorted out... are those the original rims?

arch2b
2016.08.19, 07:40 AM
nice work around :p most have plenty of those bushings lying around after installing bearings.

Xovonob
2016.08.20, 01:44 AM
thanks for the info... and thanks for the pics, looks like you got it all sorted out... are those the original rims?

Yep, stock rims.

herman
2016.08.21, 10:59 PM
Thanks for the info and nice to see it worked for you. How does it run?

Xovonob
2016.08.22, 12:14 AM
Thanks for the info and nice to see it worked for you. How does it run?

It's pretty solid with stock rims and trued down KS compound tires (medium front and SS rear). As you can see in the photos, I have the PN 3500K V2 motor mounted. The front of the vehicle is stock.

After a few hours on HFAY track 4 in the garage today, I managed the 50 lap time trial in 4:02 (details attached). That's pretty good for me, so I'm pleased with the conversion. Props to mleemor for the solid info on what needed to be done.