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MiniDeRub
2016.10.14, 05:39 PM
Hey guys, I'm looking to get my first mini z car. I was looking obviously at mr-03 just not sure which one is the best to get. I just found out there is a mini z track about an hour away and I want to get the best right off the bat. I want to be able to race once Ive learned to drive it so I'm here looking for the best of the best.
options that I'm looking at 1- brushed/brushless.
2- RM,MM,Wide,LM etc.
3- Jscc???? not sure what this is!
4- blue 50th anniversary edition
5- pro chassis
ETC... It seems like there are so many options its hard to know what direction to go. Open to other suggestions.
BTW, I do plan on getting a syncro ex-6 as the TX.
thanks

mleemor60
2016.10.14, 07:10 PM
Since the transmitter is at least half the battle you are already part way there.
If it were me I would go to the track at least once while they are racing and talk to the people racing. See what they have for rules and what is allowed in the so called grey areas. Check on what the shop stocks for kibble and bits and get input from the participants. Then take your grain of salt and add it in to help you decide on a direction. At first I would keep as close to the basics as possible. The car right out of the box will be more than you can handle so don't get caught up in the "you gotta have this to go fast" club. if you fall into that trap you will not be around long. It seems that everyone thinks they need a "ballistic missile" in order to go fast. The only thing fast will be how fast you run to the parts counter for replacements.

As a beginner I would stay away from the shorter wheelbase cars like the 90-94mm chassis. Most of the 98mm-102mm cars will make your life easier as you progress. See what the shop has available.

Good luck and welcome aboard.

Mike Keely
2016.10.15, 01:24 PM
Find out the classes they run also. If you get a brushless car and a popular class it box stock you may not be able to run the brushless car in the box stock class. That is what Mike was talking about seeing what rules they have. A brushed car can usually run in all the classes. This will make it so you can run in the most classes on any race day. More fun with out having to sit out a class while everyone else is racing.

I think that the LM cars are by far the best handling of any box stock car. Mid motor chassis usually are the easier cars to drive. LM cars are mid motor, long and wide. The LM bodies are prone to cracking in the front. You need to support the nose if you want to keep it very long. Bodies are about $50 now. Support it before you run the car on the track.

A 2.4 ASF chassis you can use for years. It will also work with the radio you are looking to purchase. A pro chassis is not needed for many years down the road.

Once you start turn the throttle down so the car is not so fast at first. In about two weeks you will have a better handle on it and can turn the speed up. Speed is not your friend until you can go around the track about five laps with out hitting a wall.

Hope this helps.

MiniDeRub
2016.10.15, 02:48 PM
Wow great thanks guys for the info. By supporting the nose do you mean getting that optional T-plate?

mleemor60
2016.10.15, 04:24 PM
No. The nose section on the body of all the Porsche 962 bodies and to a lesser extent the Mazda 787B will benefit from some foaming epoxy back filled into the nose from the headlight buckets to the body clip slot. Just don't get it in that slot unless you like very tedious cleaning jobs. It helps to put a piece of plastic material like a hotel room key across the bottom of the nose as well to re enforce plus provide a form for the foaming epoxy. The piece across the bottom also has the benefit of adding considerable down force and steering to the chassis. If you opt for the Toyota LM body you are good to go. The body is a veritable tank. Only the rear wing chord is weak and will need to be watched.
There are many other little tricks to be applied to the LM cars that add a lot of additional agility. It just depends on how stringent the rules might be. It is more part selection and application than anything else.

EMU
2016.10.21, 01:38 PM
I would suggest a body 94-98mm, with as short overhangs from the axles as you can get if you are racing on a small track.

Start with a slower motor, you dont need to use the same power that the front runners use. They have been doing this for a long time, and know how to control the power. You will put it into the wall more often with more power, making you lose more time.

For now, keep the setup simple. Rear damper and springs will go a long way, and allow you to begin to learn the control of the car. Going for what the top guys have on their cars may hurt more than help in the learning phase. There are considerably more adjustable settings on the A-arm front ends, and at this point, you may just get lost in setup with a car that even the best drivers cant drive effectively.

Things to focus on... tires, bearings, rear damper (disc dampers are simple and effective), good wheel nuts, t-plate (mid-soft). With these, you should be able to get on the track, and turning laps consistently. Even a stock motor would suffice for the first few rounds... if you need a little more power I am sure that one of the more experienced racers can give you a slower pro-stock motor that would be good for you to learn on but isnt competitive for them so just sits in their pit box.

Im in queens, originally from Manhattan, and can give you a few parts if needed... its been a while since I have been in the racing scene regularly. Hope you have fun, and take the time to develop. Race against yourself and the clock for the first few months until your pace improves.

I think that bruckner runs an open class, and a stock class... I recommend sticking to stock for a while, and if you want to run open, you would need a second car (or just run the stock setup in both classes).