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View Full Version : What is the go to NiMH AAA these days?


Traveler
2017.01.09, 08:46 PM
I haven't raced my Zs in a few years, and noticed that my go to TRP 900s are not available. What are racers using these days?

EMU
2017.01.09, 09:34 PM
I'm interested in knowing as well...

Typically, the newest production run have lower internal resistance... Don't know if companies are still matching cells and giving numbers of runtime and resistance.

TeeSquared
2017.01.09, 09:52 PM
Eneloops are a good bet, but I find they don't last as long as I would like. Still, if you are diligent about shopping around they can be had relatively inexpensively and work well before they reach the end of their life. I never counted but my best guess was 3-400 cycles in Mini-Zs before they were starting to slow down.

TheRinger
2017.01.09, 09:54 PM
Can't speak for everyone but in the club I race with most use duratrax 750mah.

DMALMAD
2017.01.09, 09:55 PM
best AAAs are these(because they are not nimh ;) ): http://www kenonhobby com/PN-Racing-Extreme-Power-555mah-Li-Ion-37V-Rechargeable-AAA-Battery-4pcs_p_45827.html

honestly, the fact that you have to ask which nimhs are the best demonstrates why the answer is none. Go lipo and save yourself time and money.

TeeSquared
2017.01.10, 01:44 AM
honestly, the fact that you have to ask which nimhs are the best demonstrates why the answer is none. Go lipo and save yourself time and money.

Lipo is great, but a lot of racing classes will restrict their use so it's still worthwhile to know what NiMHs out there are worth buying :cool:

DMALMAD
2017.01.10, 02:20 AM
Lipo is great, but a lot of racing classes will restrict their use so it's still worthwhile to know what NiMHs out there are worth buying :cool:

you're right I didn't consider that. I may have jumped the gun on that one a little, I just hate the fact that people still run nimhs :p

Racer-HH
2017.01.10, 02:47 AM
I run TRP 747 and Marka cells.

arch2b
2017.01.10, 08:08 AM
honestly, the fact that you have to ask which nimhs are the best demonstrates why the answer is none. Go lipo and save yourself time and money.

...and trade venting cells for venting and exploding cells:p these aren't like PC's or cell phone in which the use and operation is strictly designed and controlled for obvious reason (ask samsung). who hasn't forgotten to take cells out of a chassis or left the chassis on? how many stick around the full length of cells being cycled to make sure they are attended? just a few examples you commonly see at events where LiPo is not the norm. going LiPo takes reinvestment in equipment, practices, routines, etc. it's not free and likely not less expensive overall but that depends really on what cells your buying, how many and how often, all of which are subjective factors which makes it far from a universal truth. i have no doubt that in time (sooner than later) LiPo will be as ubiquitous as NiMh AAA. currently however, and for a long time now, NiMh can be found anywhere, nearly as universal as the alkaline AAA. blatant disregard of one over the other isn't informative.

some follow up questions that would proceed a recommendation to LiPo for example; does the racing you participate in permit LiPo? Does the chassis you run permit LiPo (even PN had to amend their posts and store to include warning on limit of cells with stock PCB)? Do you already have battery equipment that support LiPo?

arch2b
2017.01.10, 08:20 AM
If i could make one recommendation on NiMh cells, don't follow the herd so to speak and buy the most expensive cell available/marketed. with adequate selection, care and management, even cheap Duratrax will perform very well.
There is also the consideration of what type of racing you will be doing, as mentioned, some cells are more suited to certain formats as i'm sure you know very well. If you could provide a bit more detail, it would be easier to make recommendations that are more relevant to you.
In general, batteries are often a subjective purchase based on personal preference and experience. you will get many different recommendations based on varied experiences as people tend to have their favorites. there is a long history here of battery focused threads that attest to this.:p

EMU
2017.01.10, 12:59 PM
I have personally been considering and look. Since I don't rave regularly, do they hold up better over time while being stored?

I had great results with those duratrax cells for stock racing years ago. They had few good cycles, but the punch in the first 20 cycles made them very competitive. If they weren't cheap, and you didn't have time to weed out the dead cells, then they wouldn't have been a good option.

briankstan
2017.01.10, 01:20 PM
I purchased quite a few matched sets years back. I feel that the Peak 900's are pretty good and mainly what I run. I also have some of the TRP 747's and they are good as well. I don't think really there is much difference, maybe just a very slight improvement. Unless you can run your track error free for the whole race, and at a really fast pace you won't really gain much with matching packs. it's that extra little bit that it can give you, if you can use it.

usually I just run them in the 4 pack that they came it. If they feel like they are slower then I set them aside for checking as there is probably a suspect cell. I'll weed out the bad cells and make new sets. Pretty simple really and I try not to make it too complicated.

arch2b
2017.01.10, 01:42 PM
...I had great results with those duratrax cells for stock racing years ago. They had few good cycles, but the punch in the first 20 cycles made them very competitive. If they weren't cheap, and you didn't have time to weed out the dead cells, then they wouldn't have been a good option.

which goes to show, there isn't a 'one size fits all' recommendation. there are many factors that lead to the optimal choice vs. what's the latest and greatest from X, Y or Z.

EMU
2017.01.10, 01:49 PM
In general, regardless of branding of cells. The newest produced cells tend to have the most punch. At times, it wouldn't have been uncommon to see me running 3 different brands of cells in a stock class race.

Mod, I like smooth cells, with good capacity that don't overheat due to high internal resistance. Some cells that are better in stock would have too much initial punch, then run flat halfway through the run...

Yes, there is no golden cell. But, have any new cells come to market that stand out?

As far as Lipo, there is considerable investment for a club that has been running aaa to make the switch and evaluate regulations for the classes. It's not a easy as just saying, let's run Lipo.

The majority of clubs do not run open classes, even restrictions are placed in the modified classes. When there are no limits, adopting new technologies is Moe simple, but increases the cost of entry. I am a fan of Lipo, it makes it much easier to have a level playing field power wise, but people invest heavily into nimh charging and matching technology, and Kyosho has been slow to adopt Lipo for this scale... Making it more costly for clubs with regimented class structures to adopt, since it would be added to the current nimh expense since those regimented classes would not be adopting such technology.

Traveler
2017.01.10, 02:27 PM
Yes, there is no golden cell. But, have any new cells come to market that stand out?

Yes! This is all I am trying to find out since I have been off the scene for a few years. Didn't want to order 6 packs of XYZ brand just to find out that they stink or that ABC brand is a better choice!

Good to see you back Eugene!

DMALMAD
2017.01.10, 02:31 PM
You guys keep saying switching to lipo costs more. it takes either a few sets of those lion sets from PN and one of those 40$ lipo/nimh aaa chargers. Or you buy a pn 2.5 chassis some of the cheap 500 mah little blue 1s batteries ( I think guys at my club were buying them for what amounted to less than 5 dollars a pair) and a 10 dollar HobbyKing charger. Either way you only need 3-5 sets of batteries, a cheap charger and maybe switch your chassis but tbh you could dremel your chassis a little and not even need a different chassis. All in all it would take 15-30 min of work and under 50 dollars for the average hobbyist.

I really don't see how that is difficult or expensive considering how much time goes into matching nimhs and the cost of nimh batteries to begin with. I am not just making this up, nor am I trying to beat a dead horse, but clearly NIMH batteries are more time intensive and expensive at a competitive level.... even if that is at a club level.

Traveler
2017.01.10, 02:44 PM
Dude! You are posting in the wrong thread! If there isn't one out there already on the pros and cons of NiMH vs. Lipo, maybe you should start one. I'm not interested in switching my MR-03s to Lipo, I'm trying to find out my options in NiMH before buying some fresh cells, but you continue to want to take the conversation elsewhere. Enough!

Traveler
2017.01.10, 02:55 PM
I found some unopened TRP 900s at home, so I will see if they are still good. Looks like they were purchased in July of 2014! If not, I will give the new PN constant power CP888 a try!

Thanks to those that responded on topic!

TeeSquared
2017.01.10, 04:15 PM
You guys keep saying switching to lipo costs more. it takes either a few sets of those lion sets from PN and one of those 40$ lipo/nimh aaa chargers. Or you buy a pn 2.5 chassis some of the cheap 500 mah little blue 1s batteries ( I think guys at my club were buying them for what amounted to less than 5 dollars a pair) and a 10 dollar HobbyKing charger. Either way you only need 3-5 sets of batteries, a cheap charger and maybe switch your chassis but tbh you could dremel your chassis a little and not even need a different chassis. All in all it would take 15-30 min of work and under 50 dollars for the average hobbyist.

I really don't see how that is difficult or expensive considering how much time goes into matching nimhs and the cost of nimh batteries to begin with. I am not just making this up, nor am I trying to beat a dead horse, but clearly NIMH batteries are more time intensive and expensive at a competitive level.... even if that is at a club level.

I don't want to cut up my chassis or modify it. I don't want to rewire my chassis. I don't want the PN special chassis. I just want to buy batteries and go play. What say you to that... :)

Lipo is great and several of us have agreed. However, Mini-Z and most competitive Mini-Z racing is geared for AAA NiMH cells.

DMALMAD
2017.01.10, 06:00 PM
I was just trying to help... i wasnt trying to get all the aaa fanboys riled up but some things always get taken the wrong way.... sorry :rolleyes:

DMALMAD
2017.01.10, 06:11 PM
And btw, the best nimhs usually have little to with the company or brand. All that matters is the mah and when they were manufactured. So buy the cheapest ones that have the right mah for your application and that were produced the most recently (odviously batteries like trp and r1 have better qc than the really cheap options so dont go too cheap).

TeeSquared
2017.01.10, 06:14 PM
I was just trying to help... i wasnt trying to get all the aaa fanboys riled up but some things always get taken the wrong way.... sorry :rolleyes:

Is it helpful to sell someone oranges when they've asked for apples?

It seems you've got a lot of experience running Lipo successfully. I'll bet this forum and the community at large would benefit and enjoy a good detailed write-up of how to convert a Mini-Z to Lipo. I'd certainly be interested in something like that!

However, I think what myself and others are trying to explain to you is that this is not the right place to get on a soap box. This thread is about NiMH batteries.

arch2b
2017.01.10, 06:52 PM
:) very well put, great info, great enthusiasm, misplaced thread :)

EMU
2017.01.10, 07:06 PM
I was just trying to help... i wasnt trying to get all the aaa fanboys riled up but some things always get taken the wrong way.... sorry :rolleyes:
It's not necessarily what is said, but how it is said that produces a negative response.

Much like in the statement quoted, calling people that use AAA fanboys... Is not appropriate. You do realize, that 95% of the scale uses AAA NIMH cells. So, stating that they are fanboys is not applicable. The regulations that govern their racing do not give the option for alternate cells.

The club that you race, is an oddball club, that has no restrictions. The majority use a much more stringent rule set, where many things are restricted and regulated. Comparisons between the two are vast. One, if you can think it, and find it, you can do it. The other, you have to examine the rules and see whether it is permitted, or not. I prefer the latter myself. Especially the niche classes like f1 and LM or 90mm narrow which have the most limitations in their regulations.

AAA cells are on discussion here, while I feel that Lipo is a better and easier technology to use for racing... It is not applicable for this discussion. Until Lipo becomes the standard, many clubs will not adopt it. By becoming the standard, a major manufacturer like Kyosho needs to implement it. The increase in aftermarket chassis that are Lipo powered, and brushless technology will help push the move to Lipo. But, until then, AAA NIMH will remain the standard power source.

DMALMAD
2017.01.10, 10:48 PM
It's not necessarily what is said, but how it is said that produces a negative response.

Much like in the statement quoted, calling people that use AAA fanboys... Is not appropriate. You do realize, that 95% of the scale uses AAA NIMH cells. So, stating that they are fanboys is not applicable. The regulations that govern their racing do not give the option for alternate cells.

The club that you race, is an oddball club, that has no restrictions. The majority use a much more stringent rule set, where many things are restricted and regulated. Comparisons between the two are vast. One, if you can think it, and find it, you can do it. The other, you have to examine the rules and see whether it is permitted, or not. I prefer the latter myself. Especially the niche classes like f1 and LM or 90mm narrow which have the most limitations in their regulations.

AAA cells are on discussion here, while I feel that Lipo is a better and easier technology to use for racing... It is not applicable for this discussion. Until Lipo becomes the standard, many clubs will not adopt it. By becoming the standard, a major manufacturer like Kyosho needs to implement it. The increase in aftermarket chassis that are Lipo powered, and brushless technology will help push the move to Lipo. But, until then, AAA NIMH will remain the standard power source.

Hate to break it to you but 1/28 mini-z racing is dying and has been dying for a while and no most don't use nimh. Aside from the handful of US clubs, most clubs internationally race 4wd and mod classes that allow for lipo and custom chassis in addition to the standard PN classes. Just look at the popularity of GLA, BZ, MRX, PN 2.5, 3d printed chassis, etc

But if you feel that I was being inappropriate thats on you. I wasn't condescending or rude... maybe a little tounge and cheek, but nothing I said was trying to specifically call anyone out but thats okay I just tried to share an opinion and because it doesn't coalesce with the general sentiments of a few I am being rude...

I shouldn't have shared my opinion here and thats true. Open and honest discussion I guess now needs to be reserved for open and honest spaces...
I really don't feel like arguing anymore so all I am gonna say is MY MISTAKE, SORRY. :)

EMU
2017.01.11, 12:28 AM
Traveler, please update us with how these old stock cells perform after sitting for so long.

yasuji
2017.01.11, 02:11 AM
Uh.... hey guys.... for me nimh.... r1990s then trp747
2016 pnwc was the last time I ran gtmod on nimh
For 2017 I will be using the PN Racing Lithium AAA for both PanCar and GtMod
Can't please everybody.... just my self.... hahahaha
Glad to still be racing toy cars.....
See u @ the 2017 PNWC!

arch2b
2017.01.11, 07:44 AM
DMALMAD, again, it's not the content nor your desire to share that is the issue, it's simply proselytizing in an unrelated thread. Same issue as doing the same for mod AWD within a HFAY discussion thread. Please start an appropriate thread and i'm happy to move these posts so that they are more appropriately attuned to the topic/subject of discussion. If no, i'll move them when more convenient to do so. emoticons also help convey tongue and cheek in written forums. ;) otherwise, it can and often does come across as just rude. need to add a bit of context as this isn't always interpreted as meant in written form. god know's i've done it enough myself. :rolleyes:

Traveler
2017.01.11, 08:49 AM
Uh.... hey guys.... for me nimh.... r1990s then trp747


Thanks Grant!

refsiul22
2017.01.11, 11:39 AM
I run TRP 747 and Marka cells.

I've read good reviews on Marka cells. Really interested in trying them, but haven't found any website/store that have them in North America. If you know one, please share.

I currently use Peak 900 and R1 990 with decent results

Sponge
2017.01.11, 12:10 PM
I'm using Ansmann 1100mAh cells. Don't know much about them, but I've been 'away' from Mini-z for a while (over a year) and got back in to it recently, at first the cells (after a recharge) were barely holding a charge, my buggy ran for a few minutes before the batteries died, but after a few more charges and runs they were back to normal :) I guess after a year (or a bit more even) they needed to be 'woken up' a bit :)

EMU
2017.01.11, 01:50 PM
The only cells that I have left are r1 990, and trp 747. The 990 have held up well over time in storage giving about 650-700mah on a 500mA charge while the trp give about 450-550mah. Discharge rate was 5a on much more dtx2 discharger to .9v pet cell. I would relegate all of my current cells to practice cells, due to voltage drop and average voltage on discharge. The r1 also power my bicycle headlight brighter for longer if that matters.

Traveler
2017.01.11, 03:02 PM
Thanks EMU! I'm still running my remaining 25 sets of 2+ year old batteries through my Turbo Matcher 8 to see which may still have some life in them, even if just for practice. I have TRP 900s, R1 990s and 750s, ATM VP 800s.

Since there is no racing around here at the moment, I hope to be able to put together 6 sets from the remaining 25 sets that I can use for practice and toss the rest.

Cheers!

TeeSquared
2017.01.11, 04:40 PM
For S&Gs, I ordered some really cheap NiMH cells of Amazon to try as practice batteries.

I mentioned I'd had good luck with Eneloops, but they've proven a little on the expensive side for the number of cycles I've got out of them. Mind you, I've usually ended up buying "special" Eneloop cells so obviously they cost more. The "Pro" (previously known as XX) and "Lite" cells are nice because the XX/Pro cells have mega punch while the "Lite" cells work awesome for stock motor sprint races because they provide amazing voltage and are 2 grams a cell lighter than regular AAAs. They only have 550 mA capacity though so run times are short. I've also had good luck using them in the AWD chassis as it helps balance out the chassis a little better. Again, short run times.

The cheapie AAAs from Amazon proved a surprise though. They are not as good as Eneloops to be sure, but for practice on my home track they are perfect. So far I've only tried it in stock motored brushed cars but I intend to try them in my brushless and mod cars tonight. I suspect they will do fine if a little short on punch, but that's fine for my small practice track. The big perk is that they are only $16 CAD shipped for 12 cells, so even if a few cells go bad it's cheap enough to buy a bunch and weed out bad cells. Definitely not for racing, but my plan is to have 4-5 good quality "race" packs and a bunch of cheap Amazon packs for every day use and practice between races :)

These are the ones (https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Precharged-Rechargeable-Batteries-12-Pack/dp/B007B9NXAC/ref=s9_simh_gw_g23_i3_r?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=Z70JPH0ZTK47QCW1DKA3&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=b06971ce-9992-44c1-9ee0-eb9792e71b5e&pf_rd_i=desktop)

Traveler
2017.01.11, 05:07 PM
Thanks TeeSquared!

bobbyz
2017.01.12, 09:21 PM
I recently picked up a set of Ikea Ladda 900s that have worked fairly good so far. I tried them a few times, and just got a Maha charger/analyzer to check actual capacity. I think I'll grab a couple more sets and use them for HFAY season 23 and report back. For the price I think they're a good value so far. Time will tell though.

Traveler
2017.01.14, 11:41 AM
Interesting! I'll keep that in mind. My old cells seem to be coming back to life after some cycling. Discharge voltage and IR numbers are very good on several cells, but capacity is low on most, though this may improve with additional use. Can't wait to get them in a car on a track. It's been way too long!

tommy_greeneyes
2017.01.14, 01:15 PM
Interesting! I'll keep that in mind. My old cells seem to be coming back to life after some cycling. Discharge voltage and IR numbers are very good on several cells, but capacity is low on most, though this may improve with additional use. Can't wait to get them in a car on a track. It's been way too long!

Hey old buddy how you been. Yeah I have some old cell I brought back to life with a couple Cycles into them. The more I charge them the better they got. I know what charger I have have restored a couple old sets but I cycled them more. There's a new toy that Keenan RC (NP) is selling. A battery matcher by TRP. Hooks up to your laptop. I miss racing AAA class every now and then I run my cars.

From the last time you race that's probably two new brand batteries that came out. Marka's and Orion 800's

I hear there's a group out of Hickory racing. It'd be nice to see you guys racing again in North Carolina.:D

Sinister_Y
2017.01.14, 08:53 PM
We use the tiger r/c aaa cells. They are the best of the production run from the manufacturer ACE. They are 800 mah. They have low internal resistance and good punch.

Traveler
2017.01.16, 11:28 AM
From the last time you race that's probably two new brand batteries that came out. Marka's and Orion 800's

We use the tiger r/c aaa cells. They are the best of the production run from the manufacturer ACE. They are 800 mah. They have low internal resistance and good punch.

Thanks guys!

Tammer
2017.01.16, 04:15 PM
I am currently running tenergy premiums. They have surpassed my other more expensive batteries in terms of punch and the ability to hold a charge. They also cost pennies in comparison. I believe I got 12 batteries and a case on flebay for just around $9 shipped. I have been using them for almost 18 months with a 6 month break and they still charge and run almost as good as the day I bought them. I suggest at that price point they are well worth a shot.

arch2b
2017.01.17, 08:25 AM
one thing I've come across in battery research is the production or manufacturer batch ID. I'm not sure how available this information is for most manufacturers but it often helps in making sure your not buying cells from a site with cheap prices because they are clearing out old stock. I've seen stores selling batteries new in package that are about 5 years old and you won't know unless you recognized packaging changes, product codes, etc.

herman
2017.01.18, 04:36 AM
I recently picked up a set of Ikea Ladda 900s that have worked fairly good so far. I tried them a few times, and just got a Maha charger/analyzer to check actual capacity. I think I'll grab a couple more sets and use them for HFAY season 23 and report back. For the price I think they're a good value so far. Time will tell though.

I was able to get 8pcs of these and got to try them out, they initially seem good... if I remember, markings on the battery state that they are "made in Japan"... which is also pretty good...