Need help deciding what to race in what class.

[Ka0sgh0st]

I currently have an MR03 sport with the KT19 transmitter set up as an LM car with my Mazda 787B body, a PN racing 70t motor, Kyosho R246-1222 Roll Damper / Oil Shock, Atomic AR240 motor pod, and the Kyosho MZW308 Ball diff.

I also have an MR03 Sport 2 with the KT-531P Transmitter that is all stock, except for the Kyosho hopped up motor.

I'd like to get some advice as to what I should do. I'm wanting a total of at least 3 cars, possibly 4.

What In thinking is to make my Audi fit into the 70 turn super stock class at the local track. I can just take the motor out my LM and put it in and be good to go from there with starting to hop up the car within the rules.

My LM car I was thinking of swapping it over to another chassis, and using the one it's on now for a stock class car. I would also probably make the stock car also fit into the classic GT class with a Jota or 935 body (I found an unused 935 with minor damage from moving locally) I might not however, just so I can take advantage of the spring changes, at that point would probably just buy a Jota readyset.

As for my LM car, I was thinking of getting an MR02 and using the PN racing DSM2 circuit board. Is that possible? If it works, I can use a lower turn motor, as well as upgrade the AM Mr02 to a 2.4ghz system. I would also.see about changing the pod out to a PN racing one with one of their diffs with a higher pitch spur gear that has more teeth.


Is this a solid plan for setting up my cars to be able to race? I dont get much time to go but when I do I want to be racing instead of sitting for most of them. The stock car may be driven by my wife and I wont always race the LM, my main focus would be the classic gt and the 70t super stock.

another thought is if I go for 4 cars, I would put the Audi on the KT19 car for stock class, get the Jota or 935 for the Classic, still do the LM on the Mr02 with the PN board, but for the 70t class I would go with the DB9 and do the 96mm conversion stuff. it's just a thought. This is mostly because the wife likes the Audi body and if it was a 70t class car, that means I'm running stock and classic.

really though before I decide on the rest of the class, I'm trying to decide how to make the LM car faster. I'm hoping the board works with the mr02 and that it would make for a good car, without being super expensive, or being ridiculously more than just buying a brushless chassis.

[cowboysir]

Some thoughts on your post:

Of the bodies listed Id keep the Audi as the 70T or stock competitor. Its the lightest of the bunch and that does influence chassis setup.

The MR02/DSM2 as an LM chassis is an alright idea (without the consideration of servo motor swap and steering mode reversal) but fo me the 03 front end is superior. Without having to upgrade to a PN A-arm you could get the width and stability of an 02 and the 03 front end by getting a PN 2.5 chassis with a DSM2 pre installed (dont know your budget is a limiting factor)

PN gears fit onto other ball diffs so buying a whole new diff isnt needed....get a diff center bearing and gear set and some ceramic diff balls and you can convert your Kyosho LM diff.

One final note: my suggestion on chassis/class decisions usually takes a day or 2 fiddling and wrenching at a track day. Experimentation is part and parcel of the fun of mini-z so don't be ridgid in your process....make a reasoned and lap timed basis for your class choices.

[Ka0sgh0st]

Some thoughts on your post:

Of the bodies listed Id keep the Audi as the 70T or stock competitor. Its the lightest of the bunch and that does influence chassis setup.

The MR02/DSM2 as an LM chassis is an alright idea (without the consideration of servo motor swap and steering mode reversal) but fo me the 03 front end is superior. Without having to upgrade to a PN A-arm you could get the width and stability of an 02 and the 03 front end by getting a PN 2.5 chassis with a DSM2 pre installed (dont know your budget is a limiting factor)

PN gears fit onto other ball diffs so buying a whole new diff isnt needed....get a diff center bearing and gear set and some ceramic diff balls and you can convert your Kyosho LM diff.

One final note: my suggestion on chassis/class decisions usually takes a day or 2 fiddling and wrenching at a track day. Experimentation is part and parcel of the fun of mini-z so don't be ridgid in your process....make a reasoned and lap timed basis for your class choices.

I'm leaning towards the Audi for the 70t, and filling stock and the classic GT classes with a Jota.

I've also thought about the DasMikro brushless conversion on the Lm car as I have it now, as it's a sport 1 model. I think I would just need the board, motor, and transmitter, which I would need anyways for the LM car. the other track near me just has stock and mod mini z class, and from what I'm told most people run the 98mm McLaren body with a 9500kv motor. If I did that, I could run it at both tracks, as well as stock at both tracks

Im thinking that a fet mod would be cheapest option for the LM car. if I go with the 8858CZ fet, I should be able to run any brushed motor. Also would do the 70t super stock car as well

[cowboysir]

So if I'm reading this correctly you dont have a DSM2 Tx at the moment anyways?

If thats the case Id lean away from DSM2 as a concept as its signal rate isnt as good as the VE-MHS boards and at this point nothing compares to the Evo boards. One of those options with an upgraded transmitter and a high KV motor would make a great start to a mod based chassis.

I don't have any experience with the DasMicro units so hopefully someone else can chime in....

The 12C is quite likely the lightest plastic body in the Kyosho range.

[SuperFly]

Just made a car from scratch with a PN chassis and a Das Mikro brushless board. So far so good, no difference from my Kyosho VE Pro as far as I can tell. I'm running a PN 9500kv motor under a 98mm Mosler.

FWIW, the Das Mikro brushed board is a decent $40 upgrade for a Sport if you already have an ASF controller, if you don't want to get into brushless. The FETS are good and will handle a 43T or so motor just fine. If you haven't driven a brushless car yet, I'd see if you can test one first, it's a different driving style.

I have two formerly-AM-crystal MR02s with Das Mikro ASF boards in them, they are both very competitive, especially the 90mm Porsche 911 GT1.

Happy to answer any questions or take pictures.

[EMU]

The fets that come on the Das Mikro board are just shy of the 8858, HUGE step up from ASF. The 8858 are more or less equivalent to the fet used in the RWD and VE pro boards. There is a lot of power capability, and I would think that you can run any motor in the DasMikro boards.

I have run just about any motor on stock ASF boards as well. I only burned one car with a hot Anima II at a regional race with 100f ambient temps... and one other running lipo where the resistance in the power switch burned the wires. Running mod motors on stock ASF will degrade the fets a little (shouldnt really use a 70t in them after), but they can handle quite a bit of power. A single layer of 8858, DasMikro, or RWD fets are roughly equivalent to running 3x stack of 3010 ASF fets.

[TPDazzle]

I have 2 dasMikro asf brushed boards and they both work well. They both have quite a bit of servo noise, but it doesnt seem to impact how they drive. You also have to have spare servo motors and switches to solder into place from old boards. Ive had luck with the big auction_bay site for finding the real deal kyosho brushed and MHS brushless boards for 60 to 70 with discount coupons (no soldering or extra parts required). Of course then you are mostly stuck buying a Ex-6 radio to run everything. I am, however, a big fan of the radio and not bringing 4 different radios anymore.

[Ka0sgh0st]

I think I'm just going Fet mod the LM car to run a lower turn motor. since I have 2 MR03s and will be picking up a third later this week hopefully. I bought 20 8858 fets for $7 shipped (10 was $5 shipped) I'll just need a new tip for my soldering iron. but I think I can manage to get it done. There's also a guy locally who has done it a few times, sonI might just pay him to do it.

I think that would be the cheapest way to make the LM faster. With the 8858s, can I triple stack those? It would probably be way overkill but I'd want at least to run 2.

I'll also Fet mod the Audi for the 70 turn super stock class, just for the durability. should make it faster too. Inwas thinking 2 would be plenty and not hurt it. I could also drop the turns down for the open class at the other hobby shop.

For the third car, I'll get the Jota for stock and Classic GT. I'll make sure whatever car I get, it will have the best stock chassis. which will probably br the Audi's sport 2 chassis.

then from there I can look at spending the money on a new transmitter. I do see the benefits of having them all on one transmitter, but I want them separate so I can race at home against my wife, or if a buddy comes over.

eventually down the road I'll get a 4th car and split the stock and GT classes, but to be as cheap as possible, I think this would be the easiest way.


could someone point me in the right direction for part numbers on what I would need to increase the tooth count on my spur, and go to a higher pitch gear?

[cowboysir]

64 pitch gearing is not just about increasing tooth count. It is also about finding that in between gear ratio that isnt available from the limits of 48 pitch.

1. Dont just fire big gears on and call it good.
2. It is extremely difficult to use 64 pitch ratios to their optimum on plastic kyosho mounts. You need the adjustment of motor mounts that allow for screw mount motors so you can get that perfect mesh on your chosen ratio.

[SuperFly]

Not to get into your business too much, but I'd really think twice about which radio format you want to invest in. While ASF is old now, it is dependable and there are a good range of decent controllers available. MHS/ASF gives a path to the future.

IMO, a stock Das Micro board, either brushed or brushless, is going to be a better board than a Sport with a FET job. I just find the electronics in the Sport to be noticeably inferior. They seem to have fewer steps of resolution, and the motor handling capacity is weak. I kind of think the days of massive FET stacks are over; the stock FETs are so much better (on boards other than Sport), and ASF boards come with a 2x2 configuration from the start. I have a Das Micro ASF board that I added an extra FET layer on the bottom of the board, for essentially a triple-stack; 2 on the bottom, one on top. This board works extremely well, and will handle any motor I throw at it. I'm currently using an old PN Speedy05.

Not sure how much you've driven with upgraded or stacked FETs, but they don't really change the way the car operates other than being able to handle a lower turn motor. There's maybe a bit of a feeling of more responsive throttle, but it's minor. On the other hand, I've had older cars with triple-stacked FETs that introduced other problems, notably twitchy steering. One possible cause I've read is that the FETs dump so much power to the motor, the steering servo is momentarily starved under full acceleration.

Again, don't want to give more advice than is wanted, but unless you're a world-class driver, the stock FETs on a Das Mikro board will handle motors in the 39T-50T range, which is very fast for almost anyone. I would put more consideration into which radio format and transmitters you want to commit to, rather than worrying too much about ultimate speed.

[Ka0sgh0st]

64 pitch gearing is not just about increasing tooth count. It is also about finding that in between gear ratio that isnt available from the limits of 48 pitch.

1. Dont just fire big gears on and call it good.
2. It is extremely difficult to use 64 pitch ratios to their optimum on plastic kyosho mounts. You need the adjustment of motor mounts that allow for screw mount motors so you can get that perfect mesh on your chosen ratio.

good thing I went for the atomic mount then. the reason I'd wantvto go for the 64 pitch with a higher tooth spur is for the in between ratios. I've been looking at a gear ratio chart, and the 44t I have now seems very limited. and just stepping the pinion up one, or dropping it one is a huge jump compared to a sput with.ore teeth.





Not to get into your business too much, but I'd really think twice about which radio format you want to invest in. While ASF is old now, it is dependable and there are a good range of decent controllers available. MHS/ASF gives a path to the future.

IMO, a stock Das Micro board, either brushed or brushless, is going to be a better board than a Sport with a FET job. I just find the electronics in the Sport to be noticeably inferior. They seem to have fewer steps of resolution, and the motor handling capacity is weak. I kind of think the days of massive FET stacks are over; the stock FETs are so much better (on boards other than Sport), and ASF boards come with a 2x2 configuration from the start. I have a Das Micro ASF board that I added an extra FET layer on the bottom of the board, for essentially a triple-stack; 2 on the bottom, one on top. This board works extremely well, and will handle any motor I throw at it. I'm currently using an old PN Speedy05.

Not sure how much you've driven with upgraded or stacked FETs, but they don't really change the way the car operates other than being able to handle a lower turn motor. There's maybe a bit of a feeling of more responsive throttle, but it's minor. On the other hand, I've had older cars with triple-stacked FETs that introduced other problems, notably twitchy steering. One possible cause I've read is that the FETs dump so much power to the motor, the steering servo is momentarily starved under full acceleration.

Again, don't want to give more advice than is wanted, but unless you're a world-class driver, the stock FETs on a Das Mikro board will handle motors in the 39T-50T range, which is very fast for almost anyone. I would put more consideration into which radio format and transmitters you want to commit to, rather than worrying too much about ultimate speed.

I'm only looking at stacking the fets because they are cheap. I bought 20 of the 8858cz (iirc the number correctly) gets for $7. put in a little effort and I can run the lower turn motors.

a new transmitter and board and all that would probably be the best. and I plan to do that, but for now I'm trying to get the car going somewhat competitively as cheap as possible. If I actually do a decent race against the other racers I would upgrade. I want to see if I'm competitive enough first. the kne open class im.gonna run the LM is 9500kv brushless motors, on a big track. The other track is much smaller though. I was thinking a small selection of motors, a 50t and a mid to high 30s turn motor would work, having 2 days to swap the motor over.

[EMU]

Having run just about every brushed motor on stock ASF boards, and the fact that the DasMikro boards have the same count of fets but the fets are almost 3x lower resistance and current capability rated, I would confidently say that you can run any production released 130 motor on them.

In the earlier days, with the 4562 FET, the gate voltage was pretty high, which gave the throttle an on/off switch feeling. While it was fine for stock classes, modified motors which needed more current capabilities became a handful. Once the 8858 fet came around, the throttle resolution returned to the mod class. The current fets in the market, in RWD/VE and DasMikro are very similar to the 8858. I would assume that the evo uses the same fet as the VE/RWD, but haven't confirmed.

I purposefully did not upgrade the fets on my modified cars in the earlier ASF days because I wanted that throttle resolution that the fets at the time did not have.

My personal opinion, don't use a 9500kv motor. 5500kv or 7500kv are plenty quick, and will have more grunt out of the corner. I think I would be faster with a 5500kv or 7500kv than I would with a 9500kv on anything but an oval Daytona or Talladega sized.

[Ka0sgh0st]

Having run just about every brushed motor on stock ASF boards, and the fact that the DasMikro boards have the same count of fets but the fets are almost 3x lower resistance and current capability rated, I would confidently say that you can run any production released 130 motor on them.

In the earlier days, with the 4562 FET, the gate voltage was pretty high, which gave the throttle an on/off switch feeling. While it was fine for stock classes, modified motors which needed more current capabilities became a handful. Once the 8858 fet came around, the throttle resolution returned to the mod class. The current fets in the market, in RWD/VE and DasMikro are very similar to the 8858. I would assume that the evo uses the same fet as the VE/RWD, but haven't confirmed.

I purposefully did not upgrade the fets on my modified cars in the earlier ASF days because I wanted that throttle resolution that the fets at the time did not have.

My personal opinion, don't use a 9500kv motor. 5500kv or 7500kv are plenty quick, and will have more grunt out of the corner. I think I would be faster with a 5500kv or 7500kv than I would with a 9500kv on anything but an oval Daytona or Talladega sized.

going to any other radio system though is going to be expensive though. The cars I have now have a transmitter that works for then, even though they aren't the best. For now I'm going to replace and stack the fets with the 8858s that I bought. from there the cars should be sufficient enough to keep up with the Jones and it would come down to my driving skills. If I do well enough (which is yet to be determined how well is well) I'll upgrade the transmitter, the radio systems if need be to run a good radio.


I was gonna go with a 50 turn, and a 39 turn motor for the LM with the triple stacked fets, and see how it runs.

theres a lot of other parts I could upgrade to make the car handle better and to start out I think the the difference between a board and the fets should go to those parts. I already have a rolling damper, and an upgraded t plate, and good tires for the car. havent touched the front suspension yet, and that needs some work too on the LM car anyways (just got the parts to make the car whole again yesterday, haven't installed them yet. was missing the e clip and the spacers on one side, was just flopping around)

$7 plus elbow grease is a lot cheaper than starting out with a new board and transmitter

[EMU]

I wouldn't do more than a dual stack of the 8858. The fets should handle any motor toy can throw at it, but not sure whether the rest of the board can...

I would consider replacing the fets and seeing how it does with the motor. I'd the magic smoke let's out, then replace the board with a RWD board that sells for around $30 at a few locations. Besides the fets, it has much better resolution in steering and throttle than the old sports does.

Down the road you can get an evo, with the FHSS rx and a kt-432pt radio and drive all cars with this radio.

[Ka0sgh0st]

I wouldn't do more than a dual stack of the 8858. The fets should handle any motor toy can throw at it, but not sure whether the rest of the board can...

I would consider replacing the fets and seeing how it does with the motor. I'd the magic smoke let's out, then replace the board with a RWD board that sells for around $30 at a few locations. Besides the fets, it has much better resolution in steering and throttle than the old sports does.

Down the road you can get an evo, with the FHSS rx and a kt-432pt radio and drive all cars with this radio.

thinking about it now, since I have a sport and a sport 2 (the sport having came with the KT19, and the sport 2 having the KT531p) is there a difference in the boards, besides fets? If the sport 2 board is better, I should swap the LM to the sport 2 when I do the fet mod, while the sport stays with the 70t motor already on it. Just to give it a fighting chance.

I guess at the same time, if i leave the sport for the low turn motor, and the board goes I would be upgrading the worse of the 2 cars especially since the kt531 is a better transmitter than the KT19.

little bit of a conundrum there with a decision to be made once the fets are installed and motor going in.

I will be getting another car here soon, for the stock/classic GT class. I guess that will also influence the decision made, but I'm not sure how, just makes the decision more complicated

[EMU]

The steering is MUCH better on the RWD than Sports. As is the throttle resolution. Its like a good toy compared to a precision instrument.

[Ka0sgh0st]

The steering is MUCH better on the RWD than Sports. As is the throttle resolution. Its like a good toy compared to a precision instrument.

would that be the kt19 or kt531p?

[EMU]

531.

I always work out the rear suspension first, front suspension is less important and the stock front end is surprisingly good if you reverse the kingpin so that the kingpin is retained by the upper arm and ball is in the lower arm. Then the knuckle only rotates on the kingpin and suspension is much smoother.

[TPDazzle]

The car you are referring to as your Sport 2 is the newer RWD that Emu is talking about. It uses the KT531. There are actually 2 sports models that predate the RWD. The original sport and the Sport 2. The sport 2 was slightly better, but both utilized the KT19 radio and had less precise steering response. It is a small detail but important if you order a Sports 2 board and expect it to work with your 531 radio (it won't). You want the newer RWD board if you need a replacement that doesn't involved spending big money on radio gear. Good Luck!

[Ka0sgh0st]

The car you are referring to as your Sport 2 is the newer RWD that Emu is talking about. It uses the KT531. There are actually 2 sports models that predate the RWD. The original sport and the Sport 2. The sport 2 was slightly better, but both utilized the KT19 radio and had less precise steering response. It is a small detail but important if you order a Sports 2 board and expect it to work with your 531 radio (it won't). You want the newer RWD board if you need a replacement that doesn't involved spending big money on radio gear. Good Luck!

Gotcha. somewhere I seen the rwd called the sport 2. I just went by that. the box for my one car says rwd. lots of names going in and I didn't know better.

with that said, I'll have 2 rwd kt531p cars and a kt19.

what chassis should each car be? stock/classic Jota 94mm RM, Audi R8 70 turn super stock 98mm MM, and LM Mazda 787B open class?

I'll be doing a double stack of the fets I bought. im thinking the kt531p cars get the fets and the kt19 stays stock? or would the fets somehow improve the steering (more available power from better fets. when running as to not drain the available amps)

[EMU]

The fets used on the RWD boards are already 3x better than the ones in the sports. For anything higher wind than a 39/43t motor, I wouldn't waste the time or fets on it with the RWD cars. The resistance and current capabilities are good, and you wouldn't notice a difference.

The capabilities of the sports board are lacking (half that of the ASF), and a 50t would put it right near the limit of its capabilities. I would consider upgrading those fets, but then you're stuck with poor steering response and no throttle trim adjustment. I avoid sports like the plague, won't drive one even if it was given to me. I would swap the electronics immediately. I was impressed by the RWD, it has slightly more punch then my dated ASF cars which are high mileage and have run hot motors which I feel puts more wear on the esc and slows it down slightly.

These are my personal opinions, the RWD I feel can be raced at the highest level, while sports is a novice class car which is good to learn but has electronics limitations.

[Ka0sgh0st]

The fets used on the RWD boards are already 3x better than the ones in the sports. For anything higher wind than a 39/43t motor, I wouldn't waste the time or fets on it with the RWD cars. The resistance and current capabilities are good, and you wouldn't notice a difference.

The capabilities of the sports board are lacking (half that of the ASF), and a 50t would put it right near the limit of its capabilities. I would consider upgrading those fets, but then you're stuck with poor steering response and no throttle trim adjustment. I avoid sports like the plague, won't drive one even if it was given to me. I would swap the electronics immediately. I was impressed by the RWD, it has slightly more punch then my dated ASF cars which are high mileage and have run hot motors which I feel puts more wear on the esc and slows it down slightly.

These are my personal opinions, the RWD I feel can be raced at the highest level, while sports is a novice class car which is good to learn but has electronics limitations.

This response has made my decision.

I heard flysky transmitters can be bound to the car to replace the KT19. I happen to have one, the GT3C. I know that probably wont changs the steering response. but that'll give throttle trim. And it'll only be until I upgrad the board.

I'll leave the Kt531P cars for the stock and super stock classes. i wont bother to fet mod the super stock car.

The KT19 car I'll fet stack and then eventually upgrade the board if I find the steering lacking, which I probably will. what would be the cheapest way at that point?

I've attached pics that I could find of the tracks that are near me. I'll only be running the LM at the one with the garage doors. I might run the Jota in the stock class there however.

with regards to the super stock class, is there anything I should look at upgrading looking for the track size? I know I probably dont need to, but I would like to change the t plate to a carbon fiber one, just for the looks, as well as getting an aluminum motor mount but being I cant upgrade to a damper, I have to use the stock shock, I might not.
also what tooth pinion should I run on that.

[Qball41]

I really like the layout of the first track. Doesn't take up a lot of space, but has a good variety of corners and a good flow.

[SuperFly]

This response has made my decision.

I heard flysky transmitters can be bound to the car to replace the KT19. I happen to have one, the GT3C. I know that probably wont changs the steering response. but that'll give throttle trim. And it'll only be until I upgrad the board.

I'll leave the Kt531P cars for the stock and super stock classes. i wont bother to fet mod the super stock car.

The KT19 car I'll fet stack and then eventually upgrade the board if I find the steering lacking, which I probably will. what would be the cheapest way at that point?

I've attached pics that I could find of the tracks that are near me. I'll only be running the LM at the one with the garage doors. I might run the Jota in the stock class there however.

with regards to the super stock class, is there anything I should look at upgrading looking for the track size? I know I probably dont need to, but I would like to change the t plate to a carbon fiber one, just for the looks, as well as getting an aluminum motor mount but being I cant upgrade to a damper, I have to use the stock shock, I might not.
also what tooth pinion should I run on that.

I find a ball diff pretty useful for taming/tuning mod cars a bit. Plus, you pretty much have to get a ball diff if you want to go to 64p gears, which are also useful for mod motors.

[EMU]

with regards to the super stock class, is there anything I should look at upgrading looking for the track size? I know I probably dont need to, but I would like to change the t plate to a carbon fiber one, just for the looks, as well as getting an aluminum motor mount but being I cant upgrade to a damper, I have to use the stock shock, I might not.
also what tooth pinion should I run on that.

I see no rule stating that LM cars are not allowed in SS class, and they come with a disc damper... :rolleyes: Or you could get a narrow chassis EVO, with the MM2 rear pod, and which has a disc damper and adapt it to brushed with the 70t.

This behavior is against the spirit of the rules, and actually should not be done if nobody else is using an LM car or EVO with disc damper... eventhough it isnt explicitly stated, the rules trend towards using cars that do not permit them. I always look for loopholes, as there will always be someone else that seen these loopholes and takes advantage.

[Ka0sgh0st]

I had to shrink them down to get them to upload. I have the arm as far down as possible, the screw on the bottom is touching the motor. I do think the whole rear fitment of the body is a little tight, and the really long motor wires don't help. The mount kind of rubs on the rear bumper part, if I don't double check the spur, it will rub on the bumper part as well. then of course the damper rubs on the body, that's the last pic.

as it sits now, being a sport model, what would be the best motor to run with that pod and diff, with the fet mod?

[EMU]

It looks like the diffuser hitting the spur could be the main issue here. A little filing with a sanding stick should remedy that.

Check the clearance at the front lower area of the rear wheel arches. I get some rubbing with new LM tires there and removed a little material for clearance.

In general, I always try to have minimal wire length that won't bind or restrict the rear end. Excess wires can go places you don't want and cause impingement.

[Ka0sgh0st]

It looks like the diffuser hitting the spur could be the main issue here. A little filing with a sanding stick should remedy that.

Check the clearance at the front lower area of the rear wheel arches. I get some rubbing with new LM tires there and removed a little material for clearance.

In general, I always try to have minimal wire length that won't bind or restrict the rear end. Excess wires can go places you don't want and cause impingement.

I'll have to get something to sand with then. luckily a new harbor freight opened up in town last summer. cheap.tools should be fine.

I definitely need to sand the front of the body. the touch occasionally, they are not in contact most of the time, but there are some black marks on the body.

I dont really want to mess with the wires as they have the ends to screw down to the car, and are soldered to the motor. I suppose when I upgrade motors I can could unsolder the wires and make them shorter, one at a time. If I stay brushed, I would like to keep them removable, I know directly wired would be better though. is there something better that could be used for a motor connection, better than the stock tab and screw setup?

also, once I fix all that, what should I do about the shock on top rubbing the body? is there something I could do to raise the height of the rear of the body, and how would that affect the car? or is it possible to shrink the damper somehow, maybe by a different damper from PN or something?

I probably wont be racing this car as soon as I'd like to have, but in the mean time I will st least have the Classic GT and the 70 turn super stock classes to race. Just need a TPlate for the Super Stock class and I should have a good base on where to start tuning the car. I'm waiting for the PN black carbon fiber T plates to go back into stock, so I can get one of each of the different hardness levels.

[EMU]

Can you take a side pic of the chassis from the left side?

Looks like the damper plate adapter chassis side is upside down. The screw to the damper post should be a countersink screw, which allows a lower arm position.

To raise the body, detach the side clips carefully (acetone helps) and reposition them 1mm lower on the body.

I have no clearance issues with either of my mazda 787 cars with side clips default and both using top shocks (default kyosho). It does look like your top screw from the damper post is rubbing the body... any washers between the shock and the post? If so remove them.

[SuperFly]

Can you take a side pic of the chassis from the left side?

Looks like the damper plate adapter chassis side is upside down. The screw to the damper post should be a countersink screw, which allows a lower arm position.

I saw that too, was wondering if he flipped it to accommodate the higher post mount on the Atomic pod.

Here's how I have that damper installed, without the spring:

https://www.grymttr.com/carpix/IMG_9251.jpg

[Ka0sgh0st]

I saw that too, was wondering if he flipped it to accommodate the higher post mount on the Atomic pod.

Here's how I have that damper installed, without the spring:

https://www.grymttr.com/carpix/IMG_9251.jpg

that's a very helpful picture. I see what I had wrong.

I however have countersunk screws with the lock nuts to hold the 2 carbon fiber pieces together. The only outside screws I used were not there when I put the damper together, and those are the ones that hold the dealer to the chassis. Does that matter? I tried to find button heads in my bag of screws, but only found 1 that had the right threads, but was way too long. the rest didnt want to thread into the nut, and I didnt want to force it and destroy the threads.

there still is some body rub however, but I see why. the body shifts one way and isnt centered. after playing with it a few times and getting the body centered, there wasnt any run and was super smooth. took the body off, put it back on, and body rub. and again plays g with it to get the body centered and it's fine again. It looks like there is a little hole/notch/bulb thing area on the top of the body for the damper. when pittihung the body on, it sits off to one side of it and I can see and hear the rubbing. but now at least Incan play around with it and get it to work. Is there something I can put on the body clip parts to shift the body over? I was thinking a small dab of hot glue, then while the glue is still hot pull the body off so it doesnt adhere to that. AMD reshape the hot glue so it doesnt let the body shift that far on the one side

on a side note, do you all use a different image host to upload pictures? I've been having to email them to myself and shrink them down on my PC. would be much faster to just upload off my phone, but they are always way too big. loke 1 or 2 mb, and it only let's me upload like 488kb or something like that.

[SuperFly]

The countersunk screws are not a necessity, in fact, my version of that damper doesn't have the countersunk cones hollowed out of the CF, it's just flat. I bought it right when they updated to accommodate 102mm, the previous version only had one set of holes at 98mm.

The important thing is getting that whole friction plate below the PCB cover deck. Just be sure to put the screw head on top and the nut on the bottom. This will get you the few mm needed to get that spring mount from scraping on the body.

I post pictures the old school way; pull them off my phone, resize/crop in Photoshop, and then post a jpeg to a directory on my business web server.

[EMU]

The countersink screw is helpful only into the damper post, and top shock. Using it in the damper post through the arm of the mount should allow you to lower the arm 1-1.5mm, and reduce any rub.

If that doesn't help, you can relocate the side clips, and hot glue them back into the body. Use of hot glue here will create more tension, and retention of the body, and keep it centered.

Image posting I do on my phone almost all of the time. I use an app to resize the pics (why can't this just be integrated into default software), then upload to the forum in the post.

http://mini-zracer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35717&stc=1&d=1548388021

[Ka0sgh0st]

The countersunk screws are not a necessity, in fact, my version of that damper doesn't have the countersunk cones hollowed out of the CF, it's just flat. I bought it right when they updated to accommodate 102mm, the previous version only had one set of holes at 98mm.

The important thing is getting that whole friction plate below the PCB cover deck. Just be sure to put the screw head on top and the nut on the bottom. This will get you the few mm needed to get that spring mount from scraping on the body.

I post pictures the old school way; pull them off my phone, resize/crop in Photoshop, and then post a jpeg to a directory on my business web server.

with the screw that comes up for the shock correctly in the countersunk hole, the top of the plate is flat, while there are 2 holes that are countersunk on the underside. however, the holes I need to ise are flat on both sides, as well as the second plate that gets attached.

As long as the attached plate is under the other one mounted to the chassis, does it really matter if the nuts or screws are on top? I haven't seen a difference either way. ring the countersunk screw doesnt use the countersunk holes, I'm not sure it would matter. I could be wrong though

[EMU]

The two countersink holes in the forward set of mounting holes for the adapter plate to screw through to the damper plate are to use the damper plate in the 98mm position with the damper plate on top. It should not matter whether the nuts are on top or below, I install the nuts low to lower the center of gravity marginally.

What you need to use the countersink screw for is through the damper arm into the post which holds the discs, and keep that arm as low as possible. A little threadlock (purple) on the screw will help prevent it from loosening from vibration. Due to its location, this is a difficult screw to tighten after the fact, especially with the flaw in the damper arm in that it moves. I used blue thread lock inside the entire cavity that the arm sits in on the mount, and let it sit for a day, it has not budged since. However, this makes it locked in position, which is why threadlock is even more important for the damper post screw since you would need to remove the motor for access (not an easy feat with the damper arm in the lowest position.

With this scale, every detail cannot be overlooked, but with a keen eye and patience, even flawed products can perform admirably. This mount is a very good performing one, with the only real drawbacks being the damper arm wobble and gear capacity restriction.