View Full Version : MA-030 Evo

2019.10.17, 09:44 PM
Does anyone have photos of how the Evo board is factory installed in the 030 AWD chassis? I need to re-install my Evo board and scratching my head as to where all this wire is stuffed. :confused:

Also cannot figure out how the POT wires go back without getting pinched/cut against the chassis tub.

I also cannot get the received to stick with the white wires looped under the receiver.

2019.10.18, 03:32 PM
Don't know if this helps but this video talked about putting boards in for a few different brands. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNKVBRlai3s

2019.10.20, 02:52 PM
A NJ racer messaged me some photos and figured out from there where everything needed to go.

1. Do not take out the servo gearbox/servo motor, board unless you have to. The routing and placement of wiring is such that it's difficult to replicate factory placement in reassembly.
2. The board will lay flat IF and only if you are able to replicate factory wiring conditions. otherise, one side always kicks up and or cannot get the tail end with the received to lay flat thus cannot get the receiver cover on.
3. The 3 pot wires MUST be routed into the minuscule wire trough on the back of the servo plate. They go around the gear shaft hole. If you do not do this, you will pinch the wire badly. I nearly cut mine in half in once attempt to push the gear box in when the wires fell out of the grooves for them. I have no idea how they expect this to be replicated by average persons skills under typical race bench conditions.
3. The snap cover for the servo motor wires is torture. This is where you believe some engineer did this on purpose simply to make people miserable. It's not entirely necessary and under normal conditions you can simply leave it off. Just be careful not to snag these minuscule wires. I'm sure soldering them back to the servo is NOT fun.
4. Placement of the wiring under the board is akin to origami. It all makes sense once you know why this needs to go there so as not to pinch or stack up under the board but the effort to get it all aligned and in place to push the board down and then curse while trying to put the cover on while simultaneously holding the board all the while the motor leads are attached such they constantly get in your way is something I would venture to say should not be done while stressed out. I can easily see this thing getting tossed across a room otherwise. Pay attention to what order wires are folded, overlapping or otherwise placed.
5. DO NOT forget to install the drive gear/bearings/shaft before reinserting the steering gear box and getting all that settled. Keep your order of operations in mind or you WILL find that you simply need to start over from scratch. This was nearly the deal breaker for me when I realized I would have to take everything I just managed to get placed just so apart to get this back in. I momentarily thought to myself, maybe I just wasn't meant to have this thing...

Cannot stress this enough... TAKE cellphone photos as you go. I could have saved myself a tone of time, frustration and nearly wrecking the wiring. If fiscally it makes sense, just buy the EVO AWD. You would then need to disassemble anyway if you were to convert to FWD :rolleyes:

Oh, I like the guaranteed to be lost upper arm pin retainers. I get the e-clips are easy to loose but have a far more re-assuring connection than the slip on retainers made for convenience I'm sure. It's like they know they sc#wed us with the wiring birds nest and tried to throw us a bone with these slip on retainers but I'm certain these will get knocked off under normal usage.

While I was under the hood I replaced the motor with 70T and pulled the already burnt out stock diff and replaced with a ball diff. I hope this ends my funneling of money into this chassis. I'm only keeping this to have fun with to begin with and wanted EVO compatibility to dump carrying a 2nd transmitter.

2020.07.07, 11:15 PM
I finally got one in.

It was similar to the FWD in that the front required quite a bit of work to get it to be bind free. Pretty annoying, but I suppose it is the nature of the different plastic they use. I had to get rid of quite a bit of flashing on the knuckles.

I flourine/oiled the kingpins, knuckleball, and knuckles and everything was good to go.

Other than the funky battery inserts on the bottom (absolutely use some cloth to be able to pull out those bottom ones), and the sketch way the receiver is mounted (I imagine it is easily dislodged during a crash or sudden bump), I really enjoyed running this chassis. The thing is an absolute beast. The steering and throttle response is pretty remarkable coming from ASF days; it is almost instantaneous. It's one hell of a drifter and going sideways either way is consistent and unbiased, maybe even better with an actual oneway and solid axle.

They included a DWS... it seems to be hard plastic opposed to the spongy material it used to be. I may put it together to see if it is better and just for kicks, but the stock set up is already pretty hassle free and not as needy.

I shimmed the main shaft as I was worried it would tear itself up kicking back and forth. I am worried about the little slack in the main gear and shaft though. The half circle cut in the gear seems wider than the shaft needs and allows for quite a bit of play there. I figure that would be the first thing to go with all that power. I wanted to super glue it, but doing so would make changing that shaft a nightmare as opposed to just simply pulling it straight from the back. I don't want to mess with the servobox on that thing ever again lol. The servo motor holder thing needs an alloy option though. That thing is hanging by a thread from the factory... Also slightly disappointed in that kyosho doesn't polish the main shaft anymore like the old 010s. The rougher texture seems to be a magnet for dog hair lol.

Ended up ordering another one for my r32 with an ASF receiver just for kicks to see if ASF still holds up... Good stuff.