Mrcg Awd...
I told Richard some time back I was cooking up an AWD design, so now that I have time (not really... but I can allocate my time to the point where I sleep at 6AM every day :D) I sat down and drew this up.
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/4505/rd031amj1.jpg This is the unorthodox version... great CG and weight balance but the final product of this wouldn't be user-friendly at all -- the last AAA is on the other side of the motor. :rolleyes: That's gonna make one helluva saddle pack, as I have been told. The motor would be hard to access as well since one of the screws is deep inside the car. I just stopped working on it because it's a bit too funky, lol... Enter the orthodox revision. http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/7946/rd031ice2.jpg http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/5661/rd031jwx1.jpg A proper AAA pack, M18-style sliding motor mount, decent weight balance (needs 8g more on the servo to be perfectly balanced) and very decent CG. Chassis is a reasonable 60mm wide and can accept 94 or 98mm wheelbase bodies. I haven't designed sway bar attachments yet but 1) I don't know if they'll be necessary on a chassis this low and 2) I haven't bought a set for myself yet so I have no measurements. :o Why the layout is flipped relative to the MA010: originally, just for space constraints. Putting the servo on the right side of the car allows a tiny bit more room as I can indent the upper deck where necessary. However... I did some research and found that for almost all major manufacturers' shaft-drive cars (Xray M18, Yokomo MR4TC SD, Tamiya TB Evo series, list goes on...) the motor is on the same side of the car as the rear diff. As far as my qualitative analysis goes, I believe it's the best compromise of on-power vs. off-power stability (the motor torque affects the car differently on and off-power, as you guys probably figured). Oh well, it's usually safe to copy the companies that win. :D Anyways, as of current this is just a design study. I'll flesh it out a bit more with properly drawn knuckles, CVD's and geartrain and fine-tune the geometries before attempting to produce parts for this bad boy. Please let me know if this is something I should look into producing in the future. ;) |
That looks swish. There's a few things I wondered about but none you later covered! Great work. When's the prototype coming? :rolleyes:
But... One thing I thought. Is this a first?? I don't recall seeing a custom chassis for AWD? |
pro-z actually made one long ago. check his website
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See... making a chassis AWD is much harder :)
I gave in, and just put the motor above the batteries... the batteries weigh the most and have weight priority in my mind at least. I might be on my final version of mine, about to create the thread for it soon... (so dont anyone reply about mine in his thread, I hi jacked it enough). Any way my point is to try some concepts with the motor up top... |
Love it. (Orthodox Version) Hey that's actually a pretty cool Company/product title. Sub-50 to 75 bucks I'd be in for 2. Thought about body mounts yet?
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great concept again, color01.;) |
shimey- like cowboy said, I incorporated the body mounts to the upper deck. I haven't found an elegant way to put body posts on the upper deck though, so maybe they'll have to go on the lower deck (simple enough).
Highly unlikely that I can get it done for any less than $100 though. Almost twice the number of aluminum pieces but half the number of carbon/G10 pieces vs. the RWD MRCG, so the total cost should be around the same if I were to produce it. Drac- between moving the 17g motor up 10mm vs. moving the 12g AAA up 9.5mm, I opted to move the AAA. ;) Will have some more renders after Rhino stops throwing me a temper; managed to use the same bulkheads front and rear and they look pretty lightweight now too. :) |
Shameless double-post, here are the motor mount and the redesigned bulkheads, which are now completely identical front and rear. :)
http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/3506/rd031kpa7.jpg |
Color0-this wouldn't be too difficult to make at all if it uses MA-010 diffs, knuckles, and axels. It looks like an awesome idea so far!
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i'm not sure this has been asked yet, but will this incorporate adjustable wheelbase? if so, can you illustrate/explain how this would be done?
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Pretty simple system, basically the same as the MA010's. There are two sets of holes, one for 94 and one for 98mm.
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/493/rd031nqd2.jpg So you can do 94mm: http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/1133/rd031mst6.jpg Or 98mm: http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/4006/rd031lgt4.jpg No I haven't drawn the gears yet, it's going to take a couple tries. :o |
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Hi everyone,
As I mentioned in another thread, I got my MA010 so the MRCG AWD is back on the drawing board. :) Firsty, I think I have figured out a tierod! I've drawn a modified center shaft bearing holder that leaves room under it for the front tierod (just like the MA010), so you can actually use MA010 tierods! No more complaining about lack of toe options. :) Secondly, I am redesigning the upper arms in the name of cost. It will be a simple upper bar across the knuckles, no more fancy machined upper arms. I'll make sure they sweep back far enough for clearance underneath the bodies. And finally, I would like to know how important the SAS Pro or SAS Pro II are to a current, up-to-date MA010 setup. For simplicity I'd like to keep my current rear end, but if the SAS makes the MA010 insanely faster, then I have no choice but to design the decks to be SAS-Pro-compatible. Let me know what you think guys! |
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Hello Color0,
I also designed and built an awd chassie 2 years ago. i have tried just about every batt and motor cofiguration and the final design looks similar to what you have created. the hardest part has been coming up wtih a decent tie rod, bearing holder, servo saver combo. Im very interested to see what you come up with to solve that problem. It really makes you appreciate what kyosho has created and how they have crammed so much in such a small space. looking forwarded to your final design. |
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