Hassle-Free - One top cover for 94, 98 and 102mm case use
LIGHT WEIGHT ALUMINUM 7075-T6 MR03 TOP COVER WITH ADJUSTABLE LENGTH FOR 94, 98 AND 102 MM CASE
XP-M03-TOCR-V2 http://www.x-powerrc.com/ufiles/XP-M03-TOCR-V2_1.JPG The ways to change for different length are shown as following. For 94 mm, http://www.x-powerrc.com/ufiles/XP-M03-DPS_94MM.jpg For 98 mm, http://www.x-powerrc.com/ufiles/XP-M03-DPS_98MM1.jpg For 102 mm, http://www.x-powerrc.com/ufiles/XP-M03-DPS_102MM1.jpg |
Do you have to take the top cover off to change wheel bases? It looks like it is screwed up through the bottom of the top cover.
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Looks like it... Also, is there a 4mm post to positively secure the damper plates? How is it secured to the top plate? It's nice to have the three holes drilled out in the center to mount the top shock bracket but really it should only be used to mount the top shock directly, and lower the CG.
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It looks like in this scenario, you need to mount the "y" piece to the top cover to keep everything form moving fore/aft if the rear screws loosen. I'm not convinced it can be considered "hassle free", if you have to remove it to make changes, but I still appreciate the innovation, and a different line of thinking than Ive seen with the movable rear posts.
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WTH looks like my pn disk damper and top shock in red:eek::confused:
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Are you guys going to be crying at them when they make round black tires to?
You keep forgetting that you are all leeching of a brand who actually created the cars called Kyosho. There are other brands who also make disk dampers. There are other brands that also make dual top springs. Get over it. |
Let's end that discussion here please. If you have further comments please use pm or email.
I agree in that removal of the cover isn't exactly hassle free but still easy enough to do. There are some sloppy milling corners as well. |
Meh... looks like one good hit and the thing will shift.
I have to do this... sorry Ray! ;) http://mini-zracer.com/forums/pictur...pictureid=1364 |
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looks like it is more trouble than its worth.... why is there a slide, and why not tap the holes. doesn't look reliable.
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It appears to me that the piece is more for utility than adjustability. Seems like you could use any DPS in any location needed. A nice option if you break or strip a mounting point off the stock top cover.
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It looks interesting. Might be able to fine tune the damper in any position you need it. Probably just reverse the locknuts with the shouldered end going into the damper plate holes and would secure it better. And thanks for stopping the bashing ahead of time Ray. I feel sorry for the person who made that post asking about the ripoff parts in that thread he started and everyone bashed him for doing so. And it looked like he was new to the hobby and hopefully that didn't make him get out of it. And from what I can tell they didn't rip this part off so they are atleast trying. But I do have to agree it looks a little difficult to have to tune it and with gaps and extra holes dirt and debris could possibly get to the servo gears.
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Also, they never show the bottom of the plate. the more I think about it, the more I think it can be more friendly than I originally thought. If the bottom of the slots have tapered edges, and notches for a countersunk screw, you could feasibly adjust them by just loosening the lock nuts, moving it, then re-tightening them, with the notches in the bottom guiding the countersunk screw into the proper location. This would also keep the tightened down screw from sliding fore/aft in a collision. If the three holes in the front are tapped, then you could just mount the top shock to the 'Y"piece, then screw through the exposed "Y" piece hole, into the desired top cover hole (depending on what length you are looking for. You would be able to move the entire top damper set up with just loosening two nuts, and removing one screw. They just need it in 2mm adjustments so we can still use out RR 96mm plates :D
If the top cover is designed like this, two thumbs up, if not, I guess I've given you a good look at where the evolution of the part could head :D |
wished it was tapped...had the same thoughts as you.
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I just looked back, and the 102 pics make it looked like those front holes are threaded. Might look a little stripped, but possibly threaded.
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the bashing gets us no where. no one wins in those kind of fights.
i hope it's threaded to, if not, the next batch should be ;) i have a reflex cover myself that i'm more than happy with but added adjustability is a plus provided it doesn't come at the expense of steadfastness and precision. i'll let someone be the early adopter on this one and see how it performs. |
why not just slot the damper plate and have it slide on the post? it would be a lot more user friendly. i have always drilled my top plates the mount the shock to instead of using the y piece, i run a screw up from the bottom then a nut and shim as needed to get the shock at the right height
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What happens when you move your pod back Chad? :D
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i never move my pods, i just grab a new chassis. plus why would you run anything longer than 96 anyways.
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