winding
I want to write technical regulations for a modified Mini-Z class, and I need to find a good number of turns for a motor limit.
Can anyone tell me the number of turns in the stock motor, the X-Speed, and as many other motors as possible? |
Number of turns.
Do a search, the info is on the forums. As for the turn limit.. I have no comment. |
Pretty sure a stock is 80ish turns. An X speed is 50ish.
But something to be careful is reducing the amout of turns too much will fry a standard ESC. |
Modified Mini-Z Class
Bandini
If you have a modified class, there should be NO limit on motor types and windings. I justify this by asking the following: How would you scrutinise a motor for the number of windings? What about bearings, magnets and brushes? What about motor enhancing solvents? Those are key factors in motor performance that you cannot overlook. Let the Mini-Z owners do what they want to the motors. One thing I assure you, if I was racing and you wanted to scrutinise my motor by disassembling it, I'd tell you exactly where to go! :D The best thing is to split modified into two categories: Turbo and non-Turbo. The Modified non-Turbo class should facilitate things like GPM motors, Mini-ZRacer.com motors and custom built motors. Stock classed can be limited to standard and X-Speed type motors. They should be factory crimped and show no signs of tampering. That way it's lot more fair to the drivers and a lot less technicaly challenging to the rules and scrutineers. Easy huh? |
With the Z classing should be sorta easy.. since the ESC sort of has its own built in regulator ;) use a hot motor, and you aint going any were.
Neo magnets could be added as a cheater way of getting "free" torque on a stock motor... but all you have to do to find out if they are super magnets is touch a screw driver to the motor and try to pick up the car.. if you can, they are neos :). Modified, just let them do whatever they want, not that much difference from 20-50 winds.. they will need a turbo to use the motors... and even some turbos cant handle too low of winds. The itchy parts would be what classes are allowed, rims, tires, ball diffs and bearings etc.. personaly I think all classes should allow ball diffs and bearings... since its a structural must have, although you would likely want an "OUT OF THE BOX class" were you litteraly have no alterations whatsoever to the Z, and might actualy require them to bring an unopened box or buy one on the spot to win a prize, or half off the one they just bought :). Tires and rims should be a free choice too, so long its not some major funky tire.. with knobies ;) So basicly: BOX STOCK STANDARD MODIFIED UNLIMITED = custom chassis, larger motors, more cells, custom electronics, non mini-z electronics servos etc... |
Rules
1 Attachment(s)
Drac,
I worked on a set of rules many months ago. I've covered most classes, but some need a little more work. Due to the sheer lack of interest in the UK, I discontinued any further work on the rules. Here is a draft of my standard or what you have classified as "Box Stock" rules. I reckon it will make an excellent guideline to how rules should be drafted up. It is in MS Word format. So guys, if you don't have Office, you can't read it. |
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Well I was going on the assumption of some one trying to make their stock motor look un-tampered with... guess it didnt finalize that way though ;)
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Motor Scrutineering
Mini-Z,
Even at 1/10 'stock class' level people still cheat. At regional or national events, the entry fee includes a stock motor. These are usually sealed so racers can't even use high conduction lubricants like Black Death etc.. The stock motor class cars are scrutineered at random too. Regarding Mini-Z's: The standard 130 motor costs pennies , but what if I were to fit a Palm Runner 3V motor in my standard class car? I'd then have a motor running between 1.8-3.0V higher than it's rating. This would result in the motor performing like crazy, but with an extremely short run life. A small premium for victory and I am assuming the Palm-Runner uses two cells. |
If you want to make a motor by yourself.
Remember to test the motor no load running current can'e over 1.4A. It's my suggestion b'cos when on load the current will about 1.6~1.8A. It's the limit of AAA battery keep a good current supply. My suggest is use SWG30 / 35 turn or 38 turn Or you can try SWG28 / 32 turn. I've make a SWG28/30 Turn and VERY Crazy!!! About the armature Use tamiya Atomic Turn. Remove all wiring. Use other strong magnetic or you can use torque turn motor magnetic. Some 4WD motor make in China and cheap price but fast speed. You can try try to use the magnetic... : ) Or you can DIY the Tamiya motor: HD2 Armature / Atomic Turn Magnetic Torque turn (Original one) Just adjust the position of the magnetic... Can run faster then Xspeed but long run time then Xspeed.... But How to make the adjustment.... Can't say la... |
And Xspeed is use SWG32 / 48 turn...
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bjs-tf
thanks for the info... i will relay it to the motor masters over here... |
:ö:herman.. i got a few mini-4wd armature lying around my pit box, if you are interested i could do you a wind of your choice.. well except double.. single only sir, you want it advance? i found an easy way of measuring comm's advance timing accurately using a regular protractor, i also made a double armature just an experiment less stack, less weight, less torque, high traction, higher rpm! in case you are interested just send me an e-mail at; killer_d76@digitelone.com ;) -æ
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killer thanks for your offer... i'll send you an email soon...
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