Quote:
Originally Posted by marc
...... can regular AutoScale bodies be mounted on this? Will there be optional mount's for AutoScales? Only thing I'm not crazy about is the body posts, but I guess it works for that kind of body. ...
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There seems to be a lack of understanding of what makes a pan car work. My experience with pan cars goes back to the mid 70’ies – from 1:8 scale nitro cars, electric 1:10, 1:12, 1:18 down to 1:28. Before that I was racing slot cars way back in the early 60'ies - you guessed it .. pan cars as well.
Chassis flex plays a very important part in the handling characteristics. Basically you want more flex when traction is low. That’s why we have two different chassis plates – one for rubber tracks or other high traction surfaces (EU version) and one for RCP tracks or similar (US version).
Auto Scale body fastening is OK when you use a rigid “box” chassis like the Mini-Z, but beware! it will restrict the natural flexing of the carbon plate and possibly even tweak the chassis. That’s the main reason why we opted for body posts instead.
It’s important to mount the body with a small but noticeable "float" (side to side and up&down) to avoid bindings between body and chassis. This holds true for fastening of the batteries, there should be a very small play here as well (again not applicable for Mini-Z box chassis).
EU chassis
US chassis - note the holes just in front of the battery posts for more flex.
1:28 scale RC cars are very light – even small changes can make big differences in handling. Everything must run absolutely free without any bindings -
VERY IMPORTANT!!!!