2011.04.24, 05:51 PM
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#16
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MidWest Racers
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 410
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sick write up!
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2011.04.29, 07:55 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 987
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Sweet write up Brian !! Thx for the 411.
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2011.04.29, 09:28 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Malaysia,Truly Asia
Posts: 68
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Hi color01...where did u place 4 center silver shims,Thanks
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2011.04.29, 10:59 PM
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#19
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EMUracing
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 7,417
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I think he had them between the upper tower and chassis to raise the roll center. But wait for his confirmation...
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EMUracing
Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
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2011.04.29, 11:16 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Malaysia,Truly Asia
Posts: 68
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noted..but then the orange springs will be more softer the I thought...wonder there is droop avlb when this frontend be in together?sorry for asking not so good in reading to much technical writing
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2011.04.30, 07:47 AM
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#21
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Los Angeles (Pasadena), CA, USA
Posts: 2,809
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Yes, the shims go under the tower, as I wrote. The total droop with this setup is almost perfectly zero -- please note that I do not use standard MR03 spring holders, but instead I have an M2 nut affixed to the front clip and a shim on top of that to provide preload.
Thanks for all the feedback guys! I will try to get the more complete picture posted to the blog in the next couple of months.
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2011.05.21, 04:13 PM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 13
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Great thread many thanks for all the time you have put into writing it. So much useful info for me coming from 10th scale TC and 12th scale pan car.
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2011.06.02, 06:11 PM
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#23
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,840
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well done Brian!
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2011.06.09, 07:09 AM
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#24
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sofia,Bulgaria
Posts: 279
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First I want to thank you about sharing this information with us!!
Second I want to thank you once again about this single piece of advice:
Quote:
Originally Posted by color01
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A quick note about the E-clip at the end: I'm using Qteq E-clips so this may not apply to everyone, but always note which side of the E-clip is facing outwards when you remove or reinstall it. For some E-clips it seems the sharp outer edge (a byproduct of the E-clip stamping process) can interfere with the thrust bearing, making the diff feel notchy. I myself was having this problem for a few minutes till I flipped my E-clip around and that fixed everything.
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This saved me a lot of trouble. I recently rebuilded my diff. and it became very notchy... Then I remembered what you wrote about this and checked the E-clip direction - and thats it - it was in the wrong direction. It seems harmless but I am amazed how much trouble it could cause!
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2013.01.16, 01:10 PM
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#25
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of both Time and Space
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 1,892
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As this is one of the best (if not the best) setup thread out there, I see no harm in reviving it.
So I hope to be racing on the new carpet track next weekend in Myrtle Beach and I've been working on my 90mm car. I'm using virtually the same front end as Brian's here, but I'm running the PN 90mm pod in the back with DPS and top shock installed. +1 19mm rims up front and +2 20mm rims in the rear under a 911 GT1 Mobile 1 unmodified ASC body at 90mm wheelbase.
I've gotten it running surprisingly well on my small home RCP track with a PN Speedy 07BB motor. My only problem is that if I get too close to the wall while going down the straight, the car seems to get pulled into the wall as if it has suction cups running down the side. I'm not sure if it's the body getting snagged, maybe the front or rear flared fenders, or if somehow the front tire is catching. Has anyone had a similar problem with this body sticking to the walls and are there any modifications I can make that would help? Thanks!
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2013.01.16, 03:43 PM
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#26
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Los Angeles (Pasadena), CA, USA
Posts: 2,809
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The GT1's rear fenders are the culprit there, if you make any sort of contact with the wall with the rear fenders you will get sucked in. The new 458 looks like it's going to be a similar body, so the way you drive these cars is to not hug the wall on the straight, and do not attempt early apexing without leaving some room on the inside. You could mold a block-off panel to the side of the body (think Silhouette racers or DTM) but it's a lot of work for a part that still won't solve the front fenders catching (the other GT1 problem).
Thank you for the compliment btw, but when I first saw the topic revived I was going to post "wtf are you doing...?!"
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2013.01.16, 03:52 PM
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#27
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of both Time and Space
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 1,892
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Thanks for the quick response! I have a hard time staying off the walls , so this may not be the body for me. Unfortunately it's the only wide 90mm body I have . I have an F40 on the way. Maybe it will be a little more forgiving
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2013.01.16, 03:56 PM
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#28
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Los Angeles (Pasadena), CA, USA
Posts: 2,809
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EMU would be the guy to go to for F40 advice. It's a similar shape to the 911 GT1 but bulkier, so you lose corner speed but gain back time sliding off rails instead of sucking into them. The F40 has a pretty good shape for wall handling, just don't go nose-first into it and you'll generally slide right off.
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2013.01.16, 06:29 PM
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#29
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PN Racing Team Driver
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 1,700
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Come on wuss run a narrow like everyone else. Lol
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PN Racing
R1Wurks
LET's Go Racing
MBMZR
DG Designs
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2013.01.16, 06:45 PM
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#30
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of both Time and Space
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 1,892
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Hey Chad. Been on the carpet yet? Bottom line is, I don't have any narrow 90mm bodies other than a couple that are on display. I have that wide 911 GT1 and a narrow 2008 WRX hatch, but its 94mm Don't really want to open a new ASC for this one time, seeing as the guys at HSH will never run a narrow class.
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