i am workin on that but the hard anodized aluminum works way better. way more consistent and low maintenence. with carbon and fiberglass the "grime" eats into the carbon and scratches the surface. with the aluminum the grime pushes to the sides. i will eventually have both because racers like carbon!!
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MantisWorx www.rcshox.com
professional RC products
I was a little unsure about how the aluminum would work, I prefer FRP or CF... However, I was pleasently surprised. As Marcus said, it is very consistant. I find that the CF gums up much more than FRP, and FRP more than the Aluminum when using grease/oil on the damper plate. With CF, I rarely used any oil. With the Aluminum, you dont necessarily have to, but it works much better with a light/mid grease.
As a DDS, I have had very good results. I have this on both of my MR03's one using the body mount posts, the other I havent finished the setup... I have no plans to replace it on either. This is my second time using a metal DDS plate, the first was the ATM Ti, which I took off 5 minutes after installing it. That was before I started to use oil and grease to control how my damper reacts. If you run your DDS dry, then you want CF, if you tune with grease/oil, then metal or even FRP are a better choice.
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EMUracing Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
straight aluminum was horrible, polished aluminum was great but you would have to polish it every race day to keep it consistent, but when i had them hard anodized it totally cahnged the feel of damping and even when it is dry it has really great characteristics! i will put fluid in it maybe once everytwo weeks depending on how much track time i get, it actually feels best when it is almost dry.
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MantisWorx www.rcshox.com
professional RC products
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