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Old 2004.02.21, 09:42 PM   #1
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Are there better and worse ESCs?

I noticed one of our OL is just much more easier and precise to handle (same setups), basicly the throttle seems to be much more progressive and controllable, while the others have kinda of "steps" in the throttle.

It isnt a radio issue because I used the same radio and crystals. It isn't also the motor because I swapped motors, and although the motor is also related to this, any motor on the "sweet" ESC is still much more controllable.

I did re-FET both ESCs and would swear the "nice" one had different components, at least in value, than the others.

So, for those with several mini-z's or OL's: are there more sensitive ESCs than others? Any way of fine tuning that?

Last edited by pukkita; 2004.02.21 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 2004.02.27, 04:36 AM   #2
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Well, after completely dissasembling both OL's for closer inspection and re-solder of badly soldered or cables with broken threads I did some macro shots of the PCBs

Sorry for the dirt on the PCBs, I shot prior to working on them.

Conclusion yes, there are better and worse PCBs, at least regarding design and manufacture. If this is direclty related to the funcional performance differences I noticed, I'm not completely sure, I'd bet it is however. Or it could be a problem, but after looking and looking for I haven't been able to locate it.

On the more recent ESCs is easily noticed Kyosho took the budget scissors to make them cheaper. Older PCBs design is more refined, better components are used sometimes, and even PCB quality and manufacture are better.

Perceived functional differences:

* E-122002 PCB version works perfect with 29MHz xtals. R-124501B gets glitchy and unusable with them. That would explain why some people claim 40MHz works fine with their Z's, while other say they get completely unusable or very short ranged...

* E-122002 is much more smoother and progressive.

* Last fact to re-check: E-122002 seemed to run faster with the same given motor.



PCB E-122002
(higher res.:

PCB R-124501B
(higher res.:


PCB E-122002
(higher res: sorry about the pic, is not completely in focus, my problem, not the PCB silkscreening)

PCB R-124501B
(higher res:

Look at the Up side, upper right area. On the newer PCB they took out U1 IC, L2 inductor became L3 of obvious lower quality. C1 cap went from 220uF/6V to 47uF/10V.

On the lower left area, the T1 transformer has dissapeared.... I think this is used to prevent steering glitches due to interference.

Crooked FETs on the last one are my fault my first FET rework...

Last edited by pukkita; 2004.03.05 at 01:38 AM.
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Old 2004.02.27, 04:50 AM   #3
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I guess its a case of Old versus new...

The one with the little 10v chip is the MR02 PCB so maybe they are releasing overlands with the newer PCB... ?

The 6v is the older PCB style, from F1 and OL...

Sigh, guess ill have to start paying attention to what PCB are in the Mini-Z I part out now...

Last edited by Draconious; 2004.02.27 at 04:59 AM.
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Old 2004.02.27, 05:07 AM   #4
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so maybe they are releasing overlands with the newer PCB
No, not maybe Both PCBs were took out from "recent" (Perfex KT5) OLs...
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Old 2010.08.10, 07:54 PM   #5
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Hacking the r124501b pcb for use with an arduino PIC

Hey boys & girls!
You look like you might be able to help me with a project.

I have an yellow mini z rc monster truck with this r124501b pcb inside.
I want to solder on an ekstra pwm cable from a atmega328p PIC (arduino microcontroller) to be able to control the car both with its original rc remotecontrol but also be able to control it only with the PIC more like a robot. I will run all the pwm through the pic for making programming more fun.

I cant find any schematics of the pcb anywhere so i need some help identifying the components and where to solder.

The way i was going to solve the steering was to run the pwm cable to the steering rc servo from a digital pwm output on the PIC and run a cable from the pwm steering output on the r124501b to an input on the PIC.
This way the microcontroller handles all the info it gets from the remote controller first before it sends it out to the steering servo.

The ESC for the forward / reverse motor i was planning on finding out where the pwm input from the rf circuit enters the ESC component and run a cable from a digital pwm out on the PIC and run the pwm out from the RF circuit into an input on the PIC instead.

I am quite used to playing with rc servos and PIC but this chip kind of got me questioning a couple of things.

Why are there both a green and a yellow cable going into the steering servo with the red and the black wire.
I guess the red are +6v and the black are -6v but i never seen the need for using two wires to send an PWM signal before? Any ideas why its like this?

Where should i solder in the pwm for the ESC?

im adding a picture of the pcb as well.
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