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Old 2019.01.11, 09:51 PM   #1
ZacMaster
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Should I remove batteries between uses?

So Iíve searched and searched and couldnít find a good technical answer.

Yes, I know the Kyosho manual says to remove the batteries after each use, but I also found this thread saying

ďCan I use alkaline battery in my car?
Sure, but the car will go slow...and DO remember to remove the batteries once you are done.Ē

This kind of insinuates that with nimh, I DONíT need to remove the batters when Iím done.

What says the brain trust????
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Old 2019.01.12, 12:38 AM   #2
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Always take the batteries out of your car. It's not the end of the world if you leave them in for a short period, but they can over-drain and leak, and contribute to electrical corrosion on the board.
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Old 2019.01.12, 12:41 AM   #3
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Always remove the batteries from the car. Dont want to corrode the cells and contacts if there is a leak...

Even when the power switch is off, there will be a low power draw because the circuit is still closed. This will damage the cells, and there is also a possibility that it could damage the electronics as well.

The car is only truly off when the cells are removed, as there is still power going through the board even with the switch off.
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Old 2019.01.12, 09:01 AM   #4
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Does anyone have an electrical diagram? If one side of the circuit goes through the switch, then the circuit canít be completed... as long as this is a normal switch.

On some of my larger RCs, the esc controls on/off, so it does constantly draw power keeping the esc Alice enough to monitor for switch press.
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Old 2019.01.12, 09:32 AM   #5
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No, I dont have an electrical diagram. I do know that there have been Mini-Z cars that have blown their fets in the pits with the switch off... since then, I always remove a cell if my car is not in use to ensure that the circuit is not closed.
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Old 2019.01.12, 09:53 AM   #6
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Thatís good enough for me.
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Old 2019.01.12, 12:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZacMaster View Post
Does anyone have an electrical diagram? If one side of the circuit goes through the switch, then the circuit canít be completed... as long as this is a normal switch.

On some of my larger RCs, the esc controls on/off, so it does constantly draw power keeping the esc Alice enough to monitor for switch press.
I don't have a diagram either, but I can tell you the switch occurs on-board, not prior to the board. The power leads connect directly to the board, and there are two switch contacts. To me, this means that if batteries are in, power is flowing to some part of the board

I actually did leave some batteries in an iWaver a long time ago, and they did that thing like you see in old toys or flashlights that batteries do, where there was a bunch of fuzzy white-ish corrosion at one of the battery terminals, and you could see more of it right where the power lead attached to the board
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Old 2019.01.12, 01:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperFly View Post
I don't have a diagram either, but I can tell you the switch occurs on-board, not prior to the board. The power leads connect directly to the board, and there are two switch contacts. To me, this means that if batteries are in, power is flowing to some part of the board.
Well, a quick look at the board proves you are right.

The red and black wires come from the batteries (in series), and the two paired black wires go to the switch. It appears one doesnít need to remove all the batteries, just one will do. Thanks for the insight, everyone.

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Old 2019.01.12, 01:47 PM   #9
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I'll add my $0.02 here....

The switch is a physical disconnect which de-energizes the car. It's not like bigger 10th and 8th scale stuff where you press a button to power up. In those cases, you would be correct to say it is powered at all times because there is a circuit connected across the battery so long as it is plugged in. It's a very low draw but because there is a complete circuit, there is still *some* draw.

Mini-Z is different - You can actually rewire the cars with only three wires rather than 4 and it works perfectly normally, better in fact if you use upgraded wiring as it reduces series resistance/I2R losses, particularly on the screw terminals that stock cars use. Though I should note this is really only noticeable with particularly fast motors and strong batteries. Look at the picture above. The pad in the center which has two wires soldered to it is completely isolated from the rest of the board. Kyosho only did this 4 wire arrangement to make it easy to remove the electronics package without soldering. This is tricky to explain with words so I made a crude diagram below. Pardon my (lack) of artistic talent. The first diagram shows stock wiring with the screw terminals. The second diagram shows how I wire all my cars, usually with 22-20 Ga silicone wire.

In either case though, when the switch is open, power is physically disconnected from the car (open circuit) and current does not flow.

I completely agree that batteries should be removed from the car when it's not being driven, but factually, so long as the car is switched off, the batteries do not drain.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Mini-Z Stock wiring.jpg (57.1 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg Mini-Z upgraded wiring.jpg (54.0 KB, 4 views)

Last edited by TeeSquared; 2019.01.12 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 2019.01.12, 01:50 PM   #10
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This image should also clarify the stock wiring diagram.
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Old 2019.01.12, 02:02 PM   #11
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And finally, here is an example of the upgraded wiring described on a Mini-Z F1 MF015 chassis.
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File Type: jpg Mini-Z Upgraded wiring - F1.JPG (102.2 KB, 5 views)
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