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Old 2018.04.18, 07:58 AM   #16
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I bought plenty of Autoscales when they were $30. At $40 I bought a few. At $50, I only purchased white bodies. It's hard to justify for racing, especially when the quality of the plastic felt more brittle in certain colors. I still have my first MR02 enzo autoscale, and its still in pretty good condition. Yellow bodies seem to be much more durable than red. The white bodies typically can out bash any of the Autoscales. The plastic has a little more give.

I really don't want to see any of them go away.

As for sanctioned rules, it is something to be worked on... but since the majority of mini-z racing is underground, or isolated, it is really difficult to get on the same page. The best rule set that I have seen for mini-z was the Carolina cup series.

Even with 4-6 tracks within an hour of one another, the rule sets were very different. One tracks "stock" class was near modified speeds (fastest motors that were AM stock fet safe), while another would be a Kyosho stock motor, and another PN 70T. Gearing up for regional events, youy had to adapt to the rule set of the host. I have about 25 mini-z cars, mostly because I raced at many tracks and many of those cars had purpose built setups for specific classes. Some tracks were carpet, others rcp... which meant switching from one surface to another would require an entire overhaul to dial the car to the surface.

I want to be optimistic about the situation. If an investment bank has purchased Kyosho, they see potential in it. I hope they can see the potential that mini-z has, and get an update and increase in production of the Autoscales that are so nice to see on track.

Arch, I just wanted to apologize for using my ugly white bodies that I ran at the last race... I had intended to use a different 360gtc in mod (gold) and my f355, but the white 360gtc and f40 just worked better. The gold one is a beauty on lower traction and is more aggressive. Too much for me to keep up with after my hiatus. I sent you a pm regarding setup advice for 90mm a few days ago, don't know if your seen it.
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Old 2018.04.18, 12:19 PM   #17
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Never need to apologize I swapped my 90mm over to a 2.5 that already had the double a-arm last weekend. This improved things but still looking to dial it in so to speak. I have decals for the 911 GT1 coming and will either run the F40 or the 911 GT1.
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Old 2018.04.18, 02:12 PM   #18
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A couple pointers for the f40, side vents over the rear wheels should be removed from the inside. A little styrene or lexan cut to fit and glued in the place of the vent for strength helps. I covered mine with a green vinyl.

Place the side clips a little lower than you normally would, to increase clearance between the rear wheels, to shock and the body. You can trim the upper interior if the rear window for damper/shock clearance, and cover the window with lexan covered in vinyl as well to hide the hole.

I would try the body with and without the rear bumper. See whether you like the mass in the rear. If you prefer without, you can trim the rear bumper considerably of material without being visible on track. Removing the screw posts and glueing into place. A little fabric medical tape over the glue on the seam (while glue is wet) will prevent the bumper from coming off in a rear ender.

The front wheel diameter is restricted, so 19mm wheels are recommended.

The 911 gt1 tends to need less body work to be competitive... but I love my f40. I had removed my rear wing on my body for use on an awd years ago, and used reflex wings to dial in downforce for stability. I used a simple spoiler that mleemor had given me in 2010 to dial in the rear. Removing the wing reduces the CoG of the body, which can help sort traction rolls from that end. Something that was needed on the AWD when I was running it.

Hope the pointers help. If you need pics, let me know and I will send them your way when I have time.
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