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Old 2016.07.04, 12:16 PM   #16
jdob
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Does anybody know if all of the hop up options for the original buggy will work on the new brushless buggy? The chassis for the two look similar, but have different part numbers? I can't seem to find a manual on-line for the brushless version. I bought an original Optima and ALL of the hop-ups, but haven't messed with it any. Just wondering if I should just sell the original as a roller and buy the new brushless chassis, if I can put all of the hop-ups I already have on it instead...Anybody....?
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Old 2016.07.10, 09:07 AM   #17
slowbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdob View Post
Does anybody know if all of the hop up options for the original buggy will work on the new brushless buggy? The chassis for the two look similar, but have different part numbers? I can't seem to find a manual on-line for the brushless version. I bought an original Optima and ALL of the hop-ups, but haven't messed with it any. Just wondering if I should just sell the original as a roller and buy the new brushless chassis, if I can put all of the hop-ups I already have on it instead...Anybody....?
Yes. You can put hop up parts on brushless chassis.
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Old 2016.07.13, 11:10 PM   #18
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I notice the FET of the brushless board is not PN type, but it is dedicated FET, on the top board is P type,bottom is N type. I just half burn my fet, currently looking for replacement.
For your info, top FET model numberMG4413LSS, continuous max current spec is -12A. Meanwhile the bottom FET model numberMG4406LSS continuous max current spec is 10.3A. After bash with atomic 12kV brush less motor, I feel there is degradation, my car less punch.
Currently source replacement FET for both type N-Type I choose VISHAY SI4164DY-T1-GE3, max continuous current 30A and P-Type I choose SI4459ADY-T1-GE3, max continous current -29A.
Can't wait the parts arrive.
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Old 2016.07.14, 07:29 AM   #19
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please follow up with the results. we can then place some FAQ information in the sticky threads for reference.
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Old 2016.07.20, 08:54 PM   #20
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Done the rework,unfortunately one chip is missing , anybody know the type and model for the circle chip in the picture? The label only write 43
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Old 2016.07.25, 02:16 AM   #21
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Wink

I replace the missing transistor label "43" with this model NXP BAT54CW115 size SOT 323, this is might wrong transistor since with free run, all FET is okay unless I full throttle, I hear the motor slight cogging and the all FET become hot. I think maybe because of wrong "43" transistor. I ordered other transistor when it arrive i replace it and share the result.
But with new FET and wrong "43" transistor, i bash my car looks okay and the acceleration is more responsive.
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Old 2016.07.28, 09:37 PM   #22
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Update.
The replacement transistor arrived. I use model this model, DTC143XUAFRAT106. After replace it, no heat up FET when I fully throttle my car, the response is more linear.
Hence, with new set of FET setup, I successfully upgrade my esc to 29A esc .
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Old 2016.11.06, 12:16 PM   #23
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MB010S Brushless conversion?

Hi from Sweden!

Okay maybe a little repetitive but maybe good to collect my questions when the thread is a bit old.

I just bought my first mini-z to get some time off from screen related activities. My main focus is actually in body work building 1/24 and 1/25 plastic scale models (like Tamiya) to fit the Mini-z Buggy :P.
But of course I also looove to drive this little beauty.

I didīnt research enough about the different models and bought the SPORT-version of the buggy unknowing of the limitations of upgrading motors etc.
Now Iīm looking to work around this issue and have some questions about converting the MB-010S to be able to handle a brushless motor etc.

I know the possibility to get the VE-chassi but I think that setup will be a bit to fast and unnecessarily expensive?
Or maybe itīs the best easiest way to go?

So now to the questions.

1. What parts need to be changed?

Comments: I have seen a brushless unit for example this one: http://www.technicalrp.com/catalog/k...s-p-45066.html
I guess I donīt need to do anything with the FETīs on that one which is nice?
I also need to change the receiver part to be able to handle the KT-18 instead of the KT-19 right?

I also found this unit: http://www.infernosonly.com/Kyosho_M...p/kyomb002.htm

Is that the one for the NON-Sports version? And if I would get that one, what limitations and possibilities for upgrades do I have?

2. About the KT-18 Vs KT-19.

Do I have the same possibility's to tweak the throttle/steering ON the 18 transmitter as on the 19?

3. About Motors.

A 8500kv motor like the Team Orion on the VE-chassi might be to much if i also want to drive indoor in a small apartment sometimes?
What is the next step-down that would be suitable for both some indoor bashing and still have some nice speed outside driving in concrete skateparks for example (I donīt race indoor).

4. Motor mount.

What needs to be done? Is a brushless motor usually bigger then the stock in the MB010S and needs custom fitments? Or is there maybe mounts to get that will fit?

5. Is there a better upgrade for the geardiff than stock? I like the ability to drift indoor so ball diff will be a later thing.

6.
In the VE-chassi. Is there better parts except from VE-board and such? Or is the diff, and other mechanical parts the sam as the basic version?

Plans regardless: Iīm going to get stronger universal swing shafts/dogbone, centre shaft. And maybe metal pinions if needed?

I might have additional questions but Iīll start with this
Thanks guys!

Last edited by Tufvas; 2016.11.06 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 2016.12.13, 12:23 AM   #24
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G'day from Australia Tufvas,

Regarding the brushless VE upgrade, that Brushless unit in the pic is only half, I think, of the entire PCB.

The other half comes from the antenna side of your buggy. Lets call that part antenna-PCB for simplicity's sake, lol. At the moment, the brushless PCB part that you listed seems it needs the antenna-PCB to function as a whole. As you know, the VE PCB works only with ASF frequency, so it can't be used with SPORTS antenna-pcbs. Unless you purchase a buggy ASF (brushed) PCB, (which seems to be sold with both the antenna side and brushed throttle pcb in one package http://shop.tinyrc.com/product.php?p...cat=360&page=1) you may not be able to complete the upgrade. As far as I know, I don't think you can't link a VE throttle PCB with the antenna PCB on SPORTS buggy....(Sports owners correct me if I'm wrong)

Yes, the KT18 has throttle and steering trims, and also throttle and steering end-point adjustments. It also is a (little) shorter than the KT19.

The next step down from Kyosho from an Xspeed VE would be the ECO Brushless motor, which is blue and I think around 6000 kv, give or take. PN and X-power have brushless motors that are 7500 kv; you want to consider those but do be aware they come with no soldered-on wires or bullet-connectors. The brushless motors (at least kyosho's ones) come with a plastic sleeve that makes their dimensions the same as a brushed motor, so no need to change the motor mounts.

The VE chassis...I don't know because I have an ASF brushed motor chassis. But I do know that the dog bones tend to snap on some people, and I've had to upgrade the tie-rod to aluminion ones AND buy the chassis protecting-plate that sits over the tie-rod to keep the nose on my chassis from cracking off, lol. So I'd upgrade to stronger dogbones, the chassis protection plate and perhaps the aluminium tie-rod set. Also, I'd recommend getting the titanium main shaft gear upgrade if you plan to go fast, because the plastic one keeps working itself loose whenever I put on faster motors or higher pinions.



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