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Old 2006.01.04, 10:18 AM   #1
helee4
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Drift Technique

Apologize if someone already posted this topic...

I have a basic basic question about drifting. Are you suppose to counter steer in order to hold a drift longer? When I get my backend loose, I can fiddle with throttle to make it keep on drifting. But it only drift for like few feet then start drifting ("or more like slide") in circle. So, I am hoping some of you guys can share your technique on how to control drift, especially on how to hold a long straight drift. Or better yet, share your best drift setup. I am currently using completely stock setup, with electrical tape wrapped around tires, and still learning how to drift on a concrete floor.
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Old 2006.01.04, 11:02 AM   #2
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It's all about the throttle and steering. Countersteering is to keep it from looping and the throttle play needs to be smooth and constantly varied. You can't hold the throttle in 1 place for too long. You can also start a drift with a counter steer twitch like the rallye guys do, so that you use the weight of the car to get it going rather then the power of the motor. I find that on most turns i enter that i do a body roll to start then counter steer to keep it from looping then i let the steering go neutral at about the halfway to 2/3s into the corner then steer in if needed with a quick countersteer to get out of it. Sometimes if i enter too hot i leave it in the neutral position (straight) and let it finish it's slide and get slowly back on the throttle at the same time. It takes lots of practice and some more practice and don't forget about the practice.
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Old 2006.01.04, 12:35 PM   #3
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Thanks for the tips Saiyan. One thing I don't think I am doing correctly is counter steering. When I tried to counter steer, the car will align back with the road. Do you think that's because I counter steer too much, or I should increase throttle when counter steer?
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Old 2006.01.04, 01:38 PM   #4
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Well you can't counter steer with an AWD like you see how the RWDs are doing it in real drifting. RWD cars hold the countersteer to direct the car where they want it to go. With an AWD where the front wheels are trying to pull the car you have to be changing the wheel orientation consistantly and smoothly in order to hold the drift. There will be times that you'll have to turn in to keep the drift going. With an AWD don't think of it as countersteering, but rather just turning out of the turn. Use your steering to help shift weight and traction to the different wheels in order to get around the corner.

When going into a corner stay towards the outside, then at the point at wich you would normally start to move into the corner, swing out and then turn in. This will shift the weights and hopefully start your drift. Keep the wheels turned in untill the rear starts to come around too much then turn out (countersteer) to keep the enertia in the rear end from defeating the grip. Then as soon as you see that the rear has stabilized, turn the wheels back to neutral. You may even have to turn back into the corner to keep the angle. As you get to the end of the arc you can leave the wheels at neutral and it should pull itself out of the drift. If not then you'll need to turn out (counter steer) to pull the car out of the drift angle. Ofcourse this all happens in a matter of a few seconds, this where practice come in. After awhile it becomes second nature, just like any other learned skill.

Generally speaking, the steering is just used to keep the angle of the car where it needs to be at any givin point in it's arc, to keep the chassis at the point of just about loosing complete traction. No traction means you're looping the car or slidding to the outside of the corner, depending on witch end has the least/most traction. Watch the guys that run real AWD cars in events like Pike's Peak or world Rallye Racing. Seeing these cars drift around a dirt corner will give you a better idea of what's happening. R/C cars that are RWD have to much traction in the front to get them to drift properly. It's easier to do with an AWD r/c car cause the traction is closer between the front and rear. You also have to take into account the weight differences between the 1:1, 1:10 and 1:28 r/c. My TC3 is 1:10th of a real car, but ways much less then 1:10th of a real car. My TC3 would have to weight like 120lbs to be truly scaled. You can apply 1:1 tuning theory to r/c, but it won't have the exact effect because of the weight.
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Old 2006.01.04, 08:39 PM   #5
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I have found a large difference in the wheelbase setup. With the 350Z body and the chassis set L 94mm, it is hard to get the rear around it is just too stable. My FD3S body with the M 90mm, it comes around easly and is harder to control the drift. Four millimeters is a large difference on the MA 01, next to the MR series cars (any of them) the wheelbase isn't as effective.
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Old 2006.01.04, 08:53 PM   #6
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Only input I have is regarding scale 1:10 to full etc. Weight is best correlated to volume which should be scaled cubically. So instead of being 10x it should be 1000x.
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Old 2006.01.04, 09:08 PM   #7
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Thanks guys. I found the AWD Z seems to be able to loose its backend quite easily. Now what I need to do now is to practice more and to be able to hold drift in a nice arc instead of looping.

Now what I have now is just the stock setup with electric tape wrap. Do you guys think it is good enough to be able to do some nice long drift? Or I need to get the narrow drift tire or to change to some softer front spring?
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Old 2006.01.04, 10:47 PM   #8
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Hey Ruf, i forgot about cubing the weight. But i still don't think it's quite to scale, but closer.

If you plan to do alot of drifting i would invest in the drift tyres or maybe try the sub-c battery shrink wrap trick.
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Old 2006.01.05, 09:52 AM   #9
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Not that I tried for very long at all but I put the Kyosho drift tires on mine with RCP surface and had no control of any kind. It was like being on ice with a can of oil dumped on it to ensure no traction. Should have set up some pins and curled with it. Advise?
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Old 2006.01.05, 11:20 AM   #10
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Well, you won't have any real traction with those tyres as is the point. Kyosho's 1:10 drift tyres have a hard rubber surface that they further break traction by adding ABS plastic rings that fit into grooves on the tyres. This allows for a tiny bit of traction when you want it. The rings wear out and give inconsistant controle, so most people switch to pure PVC for cost and it handles the same from fresh to almost worn out. With the PVC you can do flat spins all day long cause there is zero grip, but with practice you can get some real awsome drifts going. I run my TC3 set up for touring car on asphault and only switch out the rubber tyres for PVC when i want to drift the roadcourse. I'm setting up my MA-010 the same way, for grip and then i'll just change over to drift tyres when needed. I have not purchased Drift specific tyres for my MA-010 yet, but electrical tape seems okay for the job. I just baught some sub-c shrink wrap and will give it a try this week-end. Hopefully i'll get to try it out soon on the RCP surface to see what works and doesn't. I have yet to set up my RCP track to drift on, but the autoscale tyres on linolium seems okay as well.

You could always try the tyres that come with the autoscale bodies, i think they're either 50* or 60*. They should afford some traction, but allow you to break loose.

You could also try going up in the gearing so that you loose some torque at the wheels. This will give you less wheel spin and more traction from the power delivery.
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Old 2006.01.05, 11:56 AM   #11
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I remember someone mentioned they sanded those drift tire to give it more grip
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Old 2006.01.05, 01:43 PM   #12
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If you find that the ma-01 oversteers too much for drifting you need to dial the turning radius back.

You will also need a faster motor to hold the drift longer.


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Old 2006.01.05, 09:23 PM   #13
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Sanding the drift tires do help out some. How much it helps will depend on your surface.
Shrinkwrap is a great investment also. Drift control is outstanding with shrinkwrap tires.

I found out that using a body that uses the 11.5mm drift tires on the rear really holds a drift angle really nice, but understeers when you try to switch drift direction. I believe this can be fixed with maybe shrinkwrap front tires, but I have not tried it yet. This was on linoleum using a Porsche GT3 body (M wheelbase) w/stock motor.

As far as motor is concerned. The more torque you can put out, the better. X-speed is pretty decent. It has decent torque with enough RPMs to run on medium to large size tracks. Small tracks, stock motor seems fine.
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Old 2006.01.05, 11:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byebye
If you find that the ma-01 oversteers too much for drifting you need to dial the turning radius back.
It is funny you mention that, I have been using my KT 2 radio with the steering D/R wheel right by my thumb. I crank it down to run around with and, kick it back up to do cyclone spins. Alot of fun.

I have sanded my drift tires down to get rid of that mold ridge in the center, that ridge was making all kinds of noise. I polished them with a #1000 paper and the car is like it's on ice. I may use a lower grit to make the "tread" a bit rougher and maybe it would be like packed snow.
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Old 2006.01.06, 08:45 AM   #15
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I agree with you nulkhead, I realized the surface I am running does make a huge difference. Before I thought my concrete floor was quite smooth and slick, but after trying to run in on a polished hardwood floor, I found I have much better drift distance and control on hardwood floor.

I do have another question. Now when I drift through a 90 degree turn into a long straight, seems like I either have to re-align my car with the road, in order not to pump the inside rail because I lost my drift. How can I regain drifting in a quite narrow long straight, or best would be holding the initial drift from the corner and continue drifting through the long straight road? I am still trying teach my fingers what Saiyan suggested earlier..

Another question is the X-speed, is the same X-speed since gen 1? Pardon my ignorance....
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