The third aluminium part is where you mount the motor on (it's laying on the table on the previous photo).
The motor first gets mounted with 1 countersunk screw on the small plate, and then this assembly gets mounted with 2 longer screws on the main motor mount part.
Unfortunately one countersunk screw of M2x4 was missing in my package and also both M2 screws for mounting the motormount on the T-bar was missing. This is a pitty who want to upgrade plastic chassis with this mount.
Although I have a lot of screws laying around, I missed these, so I decided to order a pack in the webshop (in France).
Does anyone know why there is some space machined away on the bottom plate?
Looks good! It always feels like Christmas when I come home from work and see those tiny cardboard boxes. That new design looks good. I hope they come out with a top piece that allows it to be used for 102 mm as well. I'm not sure about that machined spot. If it was in the rear I would guess it was for spur gear clearance, but it is not like you would need a pinion that big . . . I hope it works well. Have fun!
Not all the stuff that go on this chassis are new. I drive Mini-Z cars for a long time and I still had these blue front upper arms from PN Racing laying around, which are pretty interesting.
I was missing the suspension balls which go into them, you can see a package of new ones laying on the table in.
These are a bit thinner than the original ones. So, as you can see there is some room which has to be shimmed away.
By moving the shims under or above the knuckle you can change the height of the front of the car.
Then there is also caster adjustment. As you can see on the picture there is also some space to shim away on the pivot points of the upper arms.
Fortunately I still had the shims for that. A pair for each side. You can set 0 - 0,9 - 1,8degree caster you by setting them in front or in the back on this pivot axis. I set 1,8 degree.
TBH, these last shims are really hard to place. So first setup proper ride height and when everything is done, put the shims. Shims with double thickness instead of having to put 2 would be easier.
These upper arms are way more affordable then the A-arm system from the same brand.
In the back of the last 2 pictures you can see a blue steering rod from Atomic, 0 degree I picked (for now).
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